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Jason1145

CPE Clodbuster rear steer lock out help pls

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Hi guys can someone explain how this CPE rear steer lockout works on the Clodbuster?

I can see the part fitted in the picture but when I hold this part up to my Bullhead I can't see how they stop the rear steering using the existing parts etc ... there must be something else needs doing right?

 

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=77

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There’s a better picture here, it looks like the steering rods bolt to the plate & the plate bolts to the gearbox;

cpe-loc2cf.JPG

 

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10 minutes ago, max69vk said:

There’s a better picture here, it looks like the steering rods bolt to the plate & the plate bolts to the gearbox;

cpe-loc2cf.JPG

 

No that's a more expensive part for $29.99 as shown here

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=79

 

My one is the cheaper $7.99 linked in my first post which doesn't have those custom carbon links which I didn't want.

The description for my parts says "Use this machined aluminum rear steer lockout bracket on that custom Clodbuster project to eliminate rear steering.  This bracket is a direct fit on the Clodbuster gearcases, and provides a sturdy point to lock out the rear steering."

 

It doesn't mention you need anything else but I guess it should as the stock Clod links won't fit on to this new plate as those fancy carbon ones do by the look of it.

Edit : I might need a longer threaded link than my stock one to reach this new plate, then secure it though with a nut each side prahaps... any comments welcome.

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It’s essentially the same part. The plate bolts to the gearbox through the single bolt hole at the top, you then bolt your steering rods through the 2 holes at the bottom - though you will need to fit a small nut and washer on the threaded section of the steering rod on both sides of the plate so they don’t just slide through the hole in the plate.

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Yeah but the stock Clod steering link is too short to reach this plate to secure on once it's bolted to the gearbox. Those carbon links in the more expensive option are longer and can therefore can actually reach the plate to secure through.... I need longer links than the stock one fitted I think but the description should atleast mention this fact.

Its not a plug n play part is all :(

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39 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Yeah but the stock Clod steering link is too short to reach this plate to secure on once it's bolted to the gearbox. Those carbon links in the more expensive option are longer and can therefore can actually reach the plate to secure through.... I need longer links than the stock one fitted I think but the description should atleast mention this fact.

Its not a plug n play part is all :(

Well that’s a bit rubbish! A quick fix you could try is (if you have them) to drill the tops of a pair of plastic servo posts so you can then screw them onto the steering rods, hopefully these will give you enough length to then be able to screw them to the plate? 

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Yep that's an option..... I'll get on to this once I've tried the to actually reduce the rear steering throw by moving the steering rod on the servo horn a bit.

 

Off topic rant:

This Bullhead is a learning curve and there are lots of things that are new to me... I can't even use my trusty Tamiya set of screwdrivers to remove the yellow rear bumper guard thing to fit this plate as neither of the two Tamiya JIS drivers fit! ( The smaller JIS driver fits in the plastic tunnel but is the wrong figment to undo the screw... and the more commonly used larger JIS driver is just too thick to get through that tunnel to even reach the screw head).

 I'm sure I've not read about this... maybe it's not important enough in the great scheme of things - but I thought my Tamiya screwdriver set was all I needed.... ever... for all Tamiya RC's ( has been fine for the 20 odd different models I've owned!) 

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3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Cheers @87lc2 and these don't need anything else do they?

Just make a new steering rod using threaded rod and a hollow rod outer sleeve. Dead easy and really useful to have for replacing other rods.

Also, you do appreciate without a front axle direct steering kit 2WS clod chassis don't turn well at all?

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7 hours ago, Prescient said:

Just make a new steering rod using threaded rod and a hollow rod outer sleeve. Dead easy and really useful to have for replacing other rods.

Also, you do appreciate without a front axle direct steering kit 2WS clod chassis don't turn well at all?

Yeah I'm going for the full on clumbsy cumbersome learning curve myself lol... front steering from the centrally located servo... I'm half expecting it to be a poor substitute but I want to check for myself and am secretly hoping that it will actually be good enough for my needs.

My last run out was great fun just because it ran straight, simple pleasures!

However I can see it becoming frustrating with the constant flip overs even on 2s... it would be even worse on 3s lipo.

I did dial down the steering dual rate but that didn't seem to help much as the rear wheels still ended up turning sharply once in the turn despite the front wheel barely turning.

Anyhow I just ordered some 3mm threaded rod in 100mm length which should be enough to reach from the wheel hub to the lock out plate and I'll take it from there.

I'm sure I'll be looking at the front located servo at some point too but that's in the future.

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18 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Cheers @87lc2 and these don't need anything else do they?

Nope, just the spacer lockouts.  Simple & easy.  It wouldn't hurt to keep the stock drag link connecting the two knuckles for added strength, but not necessary.

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I hate these set ups they always make you break steering knuckles!  It does get better when you use another link to the other steering knuckle for sure.

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