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Scipunk

Scipunk builds a XV-01 Lancia (and learns a lot)

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Ok so this is my placeholder for my build which i should begin either later today or tomorrow morning, however i will be adding a few hop ups which may delay the actual start depending if i wanna tear it down again...lol
Also i know i haven't painted the beetle but no worries it's getting warm here :)

2019-03-21_01-28-39

So far i have picked:
Tamiya Front CVD 54515 though these are tricky to find for me so are the Opushonzu 1515 ones any good? If not ill break from my shopping norm and find the Tamiya ones :) I hear the YR ones are not very durable in this setup

Tamiya Reinforced belt 54448 (i plan on using  brushless possibly a 13.5 or 17.5 pending on cost etc)

Tamiya 54379 Aluminum suspension mount (do i need 2 of these? )

Tamiya 54378 Slipper clutch as i will be jumping it

I have the hop up shocks already but they are on the beetle, yet they are actually made for the XV so they will be used.

Savox servo

Spektrum reciever

As stated a brushless motor, i do have a 13.5 and esc on standby

Paint scheme TBD

ANYTHING anyone can contribute would be very appreciated, parts, tips etc. I don't mind taking my time to get everything right.

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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Thank you sir, that list is great!

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If you use the longer eyelet end for the dampers to increase ride height (i did on mine) then you will need to cut a small piece off of the front mud guards to clear the steering arms

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I just realized this was supposed to be in the builds section for some reason its posted in general

 

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It is worth checking your servo dimensions as it is very tight in there. If it is a model others have used, should be no problem. I think used a Futaba 3003.

The Blackholesun thread is worth a read for background...

http://www.blackholesun.fr/en/37-en/my-models/off-road/rally/278-tamiya-58528-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-team-arai-xv01

As for the alu suspension mount, I seem to remember that you have one for each end if it is the 1XJ part.

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Get the aluminum suspension arm holders for sure.  The plastic ones can let the shaft pop out on a hard hit, ruining the cup and you end up losing the small ball end things that fit into the cup.  It's a pretty common problem but with the aluminum control arm mounts this can be avoided. You need two of the longer ones and two sets of the short ones.

 

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15 hours ago, Scipunk said:

Tamiya Front CVD 54515 though these are tricky to find for me

You can build your own. You just need TRF417 wheel axle and cross joint and 42mm swing shaft. 

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A tip, replace the nn4 plastic spacer behind the idle gear on the side that hold the pin, with brushless motors the plastic spacer is to weak to hold the pin in place and the pin comes out of the idle gear and at first it makes an clicking noise, then the pin is digging in to the idle gear and rounded it out.

I made my own metal spacers for it and ad some shims to remove the play on the idle gear shaft.

when I drove mine xv-01 I had a clicking noise that I don't know where it came from, after checking every thing all the parts looked fine, so I drive the car with the clicking noise after a while I only had front wheel drive, thats when I discovered what the problem was.

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The XV-01 is my all-time favorite chassis. It's such a peach in real world conditions.

When you setup the electronics, if you put the ESC at the front of the radio box, you'll need a 275mm sensor wire.

Associated spurs fit the slipper assembly perfectly if you want to use 48p pinions.

Aluminum suspension mounts are a must! They fix the only weak area on the car.

SSD00151 rod end spacers are an exact fit for the layshaft spacer.

The Tamiya CVDs are are much nicer than the Yeah ones. You can remove the steering stop screws from the knuckles with CVDs and gain some steering angle.

Long rod ends on the shocks seems to cause more problems than it solves. The kit setup is very good.

13.5 is "just right" for me. Plenty of controllable poop, not too fast or too slow.

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22 hours ago, dannymulder said:

A tip, replace the nn4 plastic spacer behind the idle gear on the side that hold the pin, with brushless motors the plastic spacer is to weak to hold the pin in place and the pin comes out of the idle gear and at first it makes an clicking noise, then the pin is digging in to the idle gear and rounded it out.

I made my own metal spacers for it and ad some shims to remove the play on the idle gear shaft.

when I drove mine xv-01 I had a clicking noise that I don't know where it came from, after checking every thing all the parts looked fine, so I drive the car with the clicking noise after a while I only had front wheel drive, thats when I discovered what the problem was.

What did you use to make the new spacer? Would aluminum tubing be strong enough?

2 hours ago, Big Jon said:

The XV-01 is my all-time favorite chassis. It's such a peach in real world conditions.

When you setup the electronics, if you put the ESC at the front of the radio box, you'll need a 275mm sensor wire.

Associated spurs fit the slipper assembly perfectly if you want to use 48p pinions.

Aluminum suspension mounts are a must! They fix the only weak area on the car.

SSD00151 rod end spacers are an exact fit for the layshaft spacer.

The Tamiya CVDs are are much nicer than the Yeah ones. You can remove the steering stop screws from the knuckles with CVDs and gain some steering angle.

Long rod ends on the shocks seems to cause more problems than it solves. The kit setup is very good.

13.5 is "just right" for me. Plenty of controllable poop, not too fast or too slow.

Ok a few questions:

Are you speaking of the Tamiya slipper assembly upgrade? If so that's great my LHS is huge on Associated so i can get parts easily.

This is my second real tamiya car, where is the layshaft spacer? Also are these them: https://www.hobbytown.com/ssd-rc-m4-rod-end-spacers-black-10-ssd00151/p577533

I am gonna cannibalize my Xray XB2 for it's electronics and then sell the chassis to fund the other needed parts...lol. It's a 13.5 /120a esc and my spektrum reciever :) (good to know on the sensor wire)

Last question my batteries are short lipo packs used for racing buggies, but are the ones with the hols in the pack for the battery leads so i am gonna have to finagle something :D can i use foam to keep the bettery from sliding all over, or should i opt for a long style pack?>

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On 3/25/2019 at 3:05 AM, Badcrumble said:

It is worth checking your servo dimensions as it is very tight in there. If it is a model others have used, should be no problem. I think used a Futaba 3003.

The Blackholesun thread is worth a read for background...

http://www.blackholesun.fr/en/37-en/my-models/off-road/rally/278-tamiya-58528-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-team-arai-xv01

As for the alu suspension mount, I seem to remember that you have one for each end if it is the 1XJ part.

Thanks for the info that site is nice. Already added 2 sets of the gears to my kart...lol.

I never knew they had a truck version, i would love a xv-01 SCT style

My servo is what came in my XB2 its a blue Savox one not sure which model till i take it out. I'll measure it to be safe :)

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37 minutes ago, Scipunk said:

Thanks for the info that site is nice. Already added 2 sets of the gears to my kart...lol.

I never knew they had a truck version, i would love a xv-01 SCT style

My servo is what came in my XB2 its a blue Savox one not sure which model till i take it out. I'll measure it to be safe :)

The Asterion XV-01T is an odd beast - the box art does it no favours but the dimensions mean that it isn’t an SCT in the more modern mould - more like an ‘80s, ‘90s desert truck like the old Tamiya Ford F-150 Ta-02T. I’m hoping that look will suit my Asterion, if I ever get round to the body...:ph34r:.

Having got mine, I’d like to complement it with a Lancia rally one day!!

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2 hours ago, Scipunk said:

What did you use to make the new spacer? Would aluminum tubing be strong enough

I don't know exactly what part I used, its more then 2 years ago when I did this and I sold the car, but what I still know that I made it out of an aluminum flanged part from another car that I grind to the size that I need.

So aluminum tube is strong enough 

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Man i wanna tear into this kit but i have a lot of items to acquire and planning to do. In my heart i know that taking my time will yield a much better result, so i am willing to wait and do it right :)

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Parts have started showing up. Had to order my half shafts separately which will delay this even further ::(

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If you’re planning to run it outside in wet conditions, I recommend picking up a set of sealed ball bearings. I rebuilt mine a month ago this way as the bearings had surface rust from my last snow expedition 

[BLUE] Rubber Sealed Ball Bearing For TAMIYA 58573 GAZOO Racing TRD 86 - XV01 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391132330938

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Thanks @Raman36 I'll keep that in mind :)
Parts have started to arrive:

2019-04-01_06-20-58

 

20190329_182947 20190329_182941

Still waiting on a few things from racing mart/other vendors but this may be starting sooner than later :)

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1 hour ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Cool.  I've never built one, so I'll be watching your thread!

:) remember it will be moved to builds once i make it a live build :D

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Quick question:

What would be the best shock for this kit, the ones i have are not designed for off road (apparently we ordered the wrong ones) so i wan't to get the correct ones. Now this isn't a long damper spec but that's not out of the question if the parts are available to change it over.

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The SSD spacer is what you use to replace the NN2 spacer.

Shorty packs probably won't fit correctly.

The blue Savox servos are too tall. I use low profile servos, but any true standard size servo fits, like a Savox 1258 or Protek 100SS.

Probably grab a high torque servo saver. The one packaged for the TT02 comes with an aluminum horn.

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