Scipunk builds a XV-01 Lancia (and learns a lot)

[gizard 82]

On 4/3/2019 at 9:00 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

Long damper spec just uses the long damper shock towers 54581 and 54582. It uses the stock CVA mini shocks 50519 front and rear and TRF201 springs 54221, although the mini shocks come with a couple of spring options. 

XV01 long damper manual is download able from this page

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4wd-rally-road-xv/rc-xv-01-chassis-kit-2/

Whoops sorry just re-read the thread are shock towers 54581 and 54582 any different in shape to the standard items ? or could I use the GF-01 shocks with the standard shock towers to get increased ground clearance?

[ThunderDragonCy 4501]

58 minutes ago, gizard said:

Whoops sorry just re-read the thread are shock towers 54581 and 54582 any different in shape to the standard items ? or could I use the GF-01 shocks with the standard shock towers to get increased ground clearance?

Sorry, you would need someone with more experience of these than me to help you there. 

[gizard 82]

2 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Sorry, you would need someone with more experience of these than me to help you there. 

No worries gone a bit crazy and ordered some from RCJAZ  - this XV-01 build of mine is turning out rather expensive....  

[ejtnt 5]

On 4/11/2019 at 3:51 PM, gizard said:

Interesting - I have been after an XV-01 for some time and just pulled the trigger with Time Tunnel

I've read through and don't think I see an answer for my questions so I will put them here:

I intend to order the following:

54379    Tamiya XV-01 Aluminium Suspension Mount

 What are the below for though are they instead of above?
54376    Rc Separate Sus Mounts (1Xj)
54377    Rc Separate Sus Mounts (1Xm)

 

Also do I need:

54471    TA06 Steel Gear Differential Unit (Rear) (XV-01/FF03R/M07)

or just the below to go in the stock diff housing - front and Rear (I not the above is just for the rear).

54428    RC Steel Bevel Gears

 

finally I will order these too:

54378    XV-01 Slipper Clutch Set (XV01/XV-01 Pro/XV-01T/XV01T)
54450    18T Aluminum Pulley (for TA06 & XV-01) (XV01/TA-06) - I assume X2 one for each end?
54516    XV-01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Rear/2 Pcs.) (XV01/XV-01T/XV01T) Already have the fronts from a TT-02 Project.

Don't bother with the aluminum suspension mount. The carbon reinforced one has less flex and is lighter. The carbon fiber has the most flex, so I would not recommend this either.

The suspension mounts have different toe angle built in them. One is for the front, one is for the rear. I do not remember which is which. I would say that the metal gears are not necessary, but I guess this depends on how you are planing to run yours. Thick diff oil and high powered motor would mean, that the metal gears would not be a bad idea.

The stock hexes are 6mm.

You can use the tb03/tt-02 (part number 51536) spur gear with the adapter provided in the kit (part j5) instead of the spur gear from the slipper clutch. This will allow you to maintain close to stock gearing and the use of 0.6 module pinions (aka the stock pinions). If you choose to use the spur provided with slipper clutch you will need different pinion gears.

[Juls1 1209]

It’s best to use the long damper spec towers, with the gf-01 dampers as they offer a lot of travel. That being said you may be able to make them fit with short ball end on stock towers.

The gf01 shock is longer travel than CVA Mini included in the long damper kit. And certainly  way longer than the CVA micro included in the standard xv01. 

To get the most physical travel it requires trimming the arms/knuckles/arm mounts using the full length of the gf01 shocks.

But you could just limit the travel of the shock with plastic spacers internal and external by a few mm to avoid doing the grinding mods. 

As for the springs, the 501/2x front springs (53974) are the right length for the gf01 dampers and softest available (front/rear same same) for a firmer spring rate trf201 front springs (54221) are quite a bit stiffer and same size. The df03 front springs (49431) are firmer again. 

When you add travel and soft springs you end up with extra grip with results in body roll and basically flip the car. The sway bars help us tune in a reduction in grip until we find a balance between controllable drifts but not grip rolling in corners, while keeping that huge droop and travel to make those realistic rally jumps. 

I think if you want to do mostly on road then shorter shocks are going to be a better option, either 42102 or 54000. Of course these will need the associated shorter spring sets. 

if I’m swapping between on and off road then the best option is having a long and short set of shocks, only takes a minute to swap shocks and tires for those different applications. 

Sway bars 54514,

long damper towers 54581 and 54582. 

You can still use short shocks on the long towers by just using long damper ends. However if your using the touring car version it’s all different as the arms are further away from the towers (so long damper towers don’t work/are not needed.) 

the long damper towers may limit what body’s you can use on the chassis, I don’t think it’d be much of a issue though. 

Juls

 

 

[Scipunk 369]

So i noticed that certain step calls for a tap for the diff cover screws? Is this absolutely necessary? if so guess i'll have to get one. Is it to avoid ,cracking the housing? 

[Juls1 1209]

I don’t remember it asking for that when I built myn, I was probably using the thread forming tool. 

I highly doubt it says to use a thread cutting tap, more likely the Tamiya thread forming tap. 

A thread cutting tap will stuff up any plastic part you put it in, as it removes a lot of material leaving a very minimal amount of material for the screw to grab onto, usually resulting in a ruined part. 

The thread forming tap doesn’t remove any material, honestly for all intensive purposes a decent screw does essentially the same job just it’s harder to control than the thread forming tap in a chuck with handle.

[gizard 82]

On page 5 it say: 'As this kit is for experienced users, design tolerances of parts are very tight. Files and drills will be used for fine adjustment. Make threads using M3x0.5mm Thread Forming Tap.'

I have a full set of metric taps and dies so used a tap, but only part way into the holes. - although I see that on the ones I have done it would be possible to put a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the other side if required...

[Juls1 1209]

Tamiyas thread forming tap is nothing like regular tap/die set you’ll buy anywhere. 

A regular tap “cuts” the thread by physically cutting and removing material. 

A thread forming tap makes the thread in the plastic without removing any material at all so you still have a very tight and strong thread. 

I made the rookie mistake of thinking the Tamiya Tap was like any other tap. Once I’d ruined a heap of parts I researched it and realised my mistake. 

I now own a thread forming tap. 

[El Dougo 325]

16 hours ago, Scipunk said:

So i noticed that certain step calls for a tap for the diff cover screws? Is this absolutely necessary? if so guess i'll have to get one. Is it to avoid ,cracking the housing? 

Not necessary (the screws are self tapper's).  Get busy 

EDIT 

Apologies as I misread your post. I have been looking at my manual and I can't see what you are referring to? ...…... I still say unnecessary, unless there are no pilot holes  

[Scipunk 369]

@Juls1 @gizard Thanks all for the advice, I've ordered a forming tool, should be here by may first...lol

2 hours ago, El Dougo said:

Not necessary (the screws are self tapper's).  Get busy 

EDIT 

Apologies as I misread your post. I have been looking at my manual and I can't see what you are referring to? ...…... I still say unnecessary, unless there are no pilot holes  

It's on page 5 of the manual, in the grey section on the left of the page.:)

[El Dougo 325]

That's not in the TC Pro manual, it must not be for experienced users  I read that text as disclaimer rather than an instruction and I cant see anywhere in the manual that says use one here.    ....,nice to have though  

[Scipunk 369]

Progress!!

 

Had to do it 2x cause i forgot about the slipper main shaft...lol also the screw near the pully on the bottom right that holds the front of the diff together didn't snug down, it just spins, i thing i stripped the housing

[Scipunk 369]

Oh and just a small test fit, more tomorrow

 

 

[El Dougo 325]

Looking sweet, especially your parts tray that's a great idea!

I asked in my thread but why a slipper clutch .  I'm not sold on the idea for a Rally Car, what am I missing? 

 

[Scipunk 369]

24 minutes ago, El Dougo said:

Looking sweet, especially your parts tray that's a great idea!

I asked in my thread but why a slipper clutch .  I'm not sold on the idea for a Rally Car, what am I missing? 

 

Thanks it's a Cow RC magnetic work mat

The purpose of a slipper clutch is to reduce wheel spin thus helping with traction on loose surfaces. On my carpet buggies i run a slipper eliminator because of the high traction.

[Scipunk 369]

More progress, i am taking my time atm, i still need to take the motor and electrics from my x-ray

 

[Scipunk 369]

Stopping for the night got the rear attached with the Kevlar belt and CVD's

 

[Scipunk 369]

Lemme ask you guys, on the back a arms, the little NN23 spacer (the one that goes on the big hing pin before the ball that goes into the suspension brace (blue aluminum one) i was missing one so i just put it together without it on once side. Is that a issue cause i can find some washers if need be. Also where do i get these dust shields the manual keeps mentioning?

[El Dougo 325]

Ideally you want minimal slop and free movement, I always shim mine up as necessary.  I think the NN23 is 1.75mm from memory and my OCD says that's too much slop but I'm sure that it will run fine. For info Tamiya do an alloy spacers set that has .5, 1, 2, 2.75, and 3mm.   

Not sure about Tamiya dust covers/shields but I have some Team Associated ones!

[Scipunk 369]

14 minutes ago, El Dougo said:

Ideally you want minimal slop and free movement, I always shim mine up as necessary.  I think the NN23 is 1.75mm from memory and my OCD says that's too much slop but I'm sure that it will run fine. For info Tamiya do an alloy spacers set that has .5, 1, 2, 2.75, and 3mm.   

Not sure about Tamiya dust covers/shields but I have some Team Associated ones!

Alright good to know and thanks for the info on the spacer set, ill see if i can dig one up!

[Scipunk 369]

More progress

Got my electrics out of my x-ray, gonna need some wire...lol and a longer senor wire as well. Might buy a new motor not sure yet.

That's a Apex v2 13.5 and a hobbywing 120amp xerun

One of 2 possible spektrum receivers i will use

 

[Scipunk 369]

 the esc i have is pretty big and only fits sideways, which makes me sad and makes wiring a nightmare, so i am looking for a brushless esc/motror combo that wont break the bank but also will fit in the limited space the XV offers. Suggestions?

[ThunderDragonCy 4501]

1 hour ago, Scipunk said:

 the esc i have is pretty big and only fits sideways, which makes me sad and makes wiring a nightmare, so i am looking for a brushless esc/motror combo that wont break the bank but also will fit in the limited space the XV offers. Suggestions?

I took the fan off my hobbywing  10bl120 to fit my TRF201. That runs a 13.5 motor and pretty racey gearing and I haven't had any trouble with heat. Maybe try that first? 

[Scipunk 369]

3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I took the fan off my hobbywing  10bl120 to fit my TRF201. That runs a 13.5 motor and pretty racey gearing and I haven't had any trouble with heat. Maybe try that first? 

It's not a heat issue (yet...lol) its the fact that the ESC only fits one way as its too wide (long?) the other way, ill get a pic and show you what i mean.