Newbie introduction

[Dazza1976 15]

Hi all,

i couldn’t  find a new joiners section so just introducing myself. First time RC’er here, never had one as a kid and now using my young nephew as an excuse to get into it a little and also give him a hobby where he can develop some engineer and problem solving skills as well as a few others. I am based in Essex at the moment.

Will be searching this forum for ‘beginners’ threads to help me understand. I’ve just built my first kit, Tamiya LandFreeder Matte Black SP with a few hiccups along way (used wrong screws couple of time but rectified this ☺️). 

 

Chose this kit as I was not feeling brave enough to cut and paint the shell. Thoroughly enjoyed building it, gives me an understanding of where I need to upgrade.

Initial thoughts so far:

steering: it’s sloppy (I see this is normal for CC01 stock) and I can’t seem to get it set to neutral which nay be related to my cheap servo. Been looking at Yeah Racing ally steering kits, are they going to help at all?

Tyres: i know need to upgrade but not sure what to, i will mostly be using this in a very big garden with my nephew to get his interest (he’s not even 4 yet😬) and also some trail driving. Not crawling yet so full on soft knobbly tyres may not be necessary but still need to upgrade from the stocks. 

Transmitter/servo: paid for transmitter/servo and battery bundle where the hand controls are a little cheap feeling and at the moment I can’t seem to get the steering set to neutral. It always seems to be off, either to left or right. During the build I used the kit parts initially to sit on top of the servo but the servo is quite tall and the angle of the steering rod from servo to front pillar seemed too great so I replaced that with the single part that came with the servo. Hope that makes sense. I think the issue is the general sloppiness in the steering assembly combined with plastic gear on top of cheap servo pin. Any ideas? Can I replace the plastic cog with a metal one?

Details of what I purchased besides the kit:

Carson Reflex Pro 3.1 2-Channel 2.4Ghz Stick Transmitter with Receiver and Servo - C707131

Overlander 3300mah 7.2v NiMh Battery Pack SubC for RC Car, Boat, Bike Battery with Tamiya Plug - OL-2588

Overlander NX-20 20W NiMh Compact Charger with Tamiya Connector - OL-2914

 

Appreciate this is a long post and I understand if no one replies 😂 but any help/advice would be gratefully received. 

Many thanks 👍🏼

[Nobbi1977 1793]

Welcome

The CC01 can have as little or as much done as you want. My advice is sort the steering and then just drive. Save the hopup money for your next build.

Enjoy

[Jonathon Gillham 4605]

Welcome. The kindest answer is to put it back in its box and forget you ever had one before things get out of hand...but wheres the fun in that. @Nobbi1977 is spot on mentioning your next build when you haven't even sorted out your first.

I can't add anything as I haven't got a CC01, other than drive it and have fun. Its great that you're getting your nephew into it. My son is 5 and has a Monster Beetle, Fox, Plasma Edge II and a HB D413 4wd race buggy amd now comes racing with me, you can't start them young enough!

[Superluminal 3750]

Remember that money you used to have in your bank account...

[Badcrumble 4201]

Welcome, I was also brand new to the hobby when I joined in 2015*.

My 4 year old really likes RC but does struggle with the big stick controllers. Others have suggested that kids get in better with trigger / wheel versions and having bought a couple of toy grade cars for him, my boy has got on better with them - they were much smaller though.

To slow things down a bit for the nephew you could see if your transmitter can limit the throttle end point or swap to a slower 55T or more crawler speed 35T motor. It might save expensive crashes!

Then again, having broken it you can show him how to fix it!

*EDIT: as others have suggested, one is only the beginning. I have now got too many. I reckon a CC01 is a great start as you can do so much with it before you get distracted with other models!!!

[ThunderDragonCy 7876]

Welcome! Although the transmitter feels plasticy and insubstantial, this is just how they feel unless you spend a bundle these days. That Carson has a great reputation and is one of the few stick radios left on sale. You can't go wrong with that overlander gear. It's what I started with a couple of years ago and it's great. 

Again I have no experience of the cc01. There isn't a beginner forum, so my suggestion would be to start a new thread on this forum titled specifically about CC01 steering and tyres. The CC01 runners will flock to help. 

[Dazza1976 15]

Thank you for the responses chaps. I will head to the CC01 forums and look into just fixing the steering slop for now and then test it more. Definitely not planning on any other models until I fully understand this one and got the nephew up to speed so may look for suitable training model for him. Will need to be able to cope with a bumpy garden 😀

[colda 45]

I recently built a CC-01 (still not complete), certainly recommend the steering upgrade (I went with the GPM one - don't forget to use threadlock!), I'd also recommend a reasonable servo such as a Savox 1256 (about £30 used) although there are some good inexpensive ones available on HobbyKing (Turnigy brand, make sure you go for some with metal gears and a good torque rating)

As mentioned, transmitters are 'plasticy', was surprised how much when I got my Sanwa MX-V, now using an old Sanwa M11X and although much more substantial, I can't help but think that these companies can learn a thing or two from organisations such as camera manufacturers

So, your next build, an XV-01 or MF-01X could potentially compliment the CC-01

[TurnipJF 9192]

Welcome to the forum, and to the hobby!

The CC-01 has considerable scope for modification and improvement, which some see as making it a money pit while others see as making it a great base for an exciting project - it is purely a matter of perspective.

I am lucky enough to have a CC-01 in my fleet on which all the issues you mention have been sorted, so I will take some photos, check some part numbers and post some answers for you in a bit. 

[Mad Ax 9310]

Welcome to the forum.

OK - this may be way more info than you asked for, but here goes:

Firstly I definitely recommend an aftermarket steering kit for the CC01.  There are various options but mostly they do the same thing.  Take care when fitting as the instructions (when supplied) are not always clear - things can be fitted several ways around but only one way is 'right'.

As for the steering link angle - check your servo and the build instructions again.  There are two common positions for the brackets that are moulded into the side of a standard servo case, and you need to measure your servo to find out what type it is, then fit the servo posts a particular way around depending on that type.  If you've got your servo posts the wrong way round your servo will be too high or too low, giving a bad steering link angle.

If you can't get your steering to centre, does that mean it's always one way or always the other?  I find on a lot of servos the servo saver never fits in the exact correct position when the servo is centred to the radio handset.  You can centre it either by adjusting the trim on the handset or by adjusting the length of the steering rod that goes from the servo horn to the steering tube.

If the steering will constantly change from being either left or right during running then you have play somewhere - check the entire steering system to see where.  Standard Tamiya components always have some play and across the whole system it all adds up.  However if you have a cheap servo there might be additional play in there which makes it all too much.  It's also worth checking if anything is binding - if your toe angles are set correctly the car should self-centre on level ground, but if you have binding in a swivel hub it will want to stick, making the car weave left after you've released a left turn input and right after you've released a right turn input.  It's easier to pop off the servo ball joint to check for stiffness in the linkages.

Have you replaced the Tamiya servo saver with a solid servo horn from your radio kit?  Standard Tamiya servo savers are bulky and sometimes have a bit of play in them but they will help to save your servo in a crash (hence the name).  Without a servo saver you risk damaging the servo gearbox when (not if) you crash.

Also the steering horn from your radio kit might be longer or shorter than the Tamiya horn.  A shorter horn will reduce your maximum steering angle on a vehicle that already has a fairly poor turning circle; a longer horn might let you input more angle than the steering is capable of, putting the linkage under excess strain.  You probably don't have adjustable endpoints on the Carson Reflex so you can't tune it out electronically.  It's not the end of the world but worth bearing in mind if you start popping steering links off the balls or if you start spitting driveshafts.

As for the radio feeling cheap - Carson Reflex radios do feel a bit cheap.  I have a 6 ch Carson Reflex for one of my big rigs and I don't really like it.  There are much better radios out there but to get the really good ones you have to spend the money (especially if you want sticks).  If you want to spend the money and upgrade, the Turnigy TGY-i6 is a 6-channel multi-model programmable stick radio for just £40.  The FlySky FS-i6 is the exact same radio with a different badge.  A Mode 1 radio will have a return spring on the left vertical stick and a ratchett on the right but there are conversion kits that put return springs on both vertical sticks.

If you're happy with a wheel radio then the world is your mollusc.

As for tyres - there are various options and many will fit without having to modify the body.  You might just have to raise it a little on its posts.

This is a series I was doing on upgrading the CC01 with aftermarket or home-made parts - it's currently stalled waiting delivery of aftermarket parts (partly why home-made rocks!) and it covers things like steering linkages and tyres.

 

[TurnipJF 9192]

Steering/servo:

A number of things can be done to improve this.

A decent alloy ballraced steering rack is a great place to start. My rig has the GPM CC048 one fitted, assembled with threadlock and rubber sealed bearings in place of the metal shielded ones that come with it. A bit fiddly to fit, but once in place, it needs minimal maintenance. You might also consider the Hot Racing TCC4801 steering rack which comes partially assembled and is supplied with rubber sealed bearings as standard.

The servo saver can be a bit sloppy, but it is better to have a saver of some sort as it protects not only your servo but also the rest of your steering system from unexpected shocks. You can fit a high torque servo saver, or you can use a high torque servo saver C-spring to tighten up the stock servo saver as pictured above. 

The rear servo mount can also contribute to slop as it is quite flexible. An alloy replacement is much stiffer and does not allow the servo to move around under load like the stock plastic one does. Mine is a GPM CC024 piece. 

And of course a quality servo helps too. I went for the Futaba S3014 because it is waterproof and has plenty of torque, but you have many options in this regard.

[TurnipJF 9192]

Tyres:

Fastrax Kongs are a great budget tyre. The smaller ones are only slightly larger than stock, so are able to fit most CC-01 bodies with little or no trimming required. 

They give the model a nice realistic street-legal stance.

 

[WillyChang 1814]

Welcome!

i suspect I might've owned/built more CC01s in the past quarter century than everyone above totalled  got 2 if not 3 LandFreeders floating around here. 

Stock plastic steering has some slop & limited throw, but it still works ok... just don't expect razor sharp precision. I like alloy steering but that too needs to be built right or it'll be no better.

If you're using stock kit bushings, that's sloppier than any steering. Get ballbearings immediately! 

CC01s have swapped steering servo orientation over the years; short vs long link. Adjust centrepoint by varying length of the link to servo horn. The servo horn might not sit perfectly right angle to the linkage due to some brands with an odd number of splines at its output shaft; close enough is ok.

 

[TurnipJF 9192]

Transmitter:

I also bought a Carson stick transmitter bundled with my first RC, and was also less than impressed with the build quality. It works well enough but feels horribly tacky even by modern transmitter standards. 

I upgraded to a Spektrum wheel set not long afterwards, and while still no comparison to the solid brick transmitters of old, it is far better than the Carson offering.

It also has sub-trim and endpoint adjustment, so any asymmetry with your steering servo linkage can be corrected electronically. 

[Big Jon 684]

All this talk about stick transmitters...

The Futaba 4GRS has excellent ergonomics and capability. It's essentially a 4PLS in a stick format. Either transmitter is worth the lettuce. 

Why are stick transmitters so popular in the UK? 

[TurnipJF 9192]

Screws:

The stock 10mm screws that hold the gearbox cover in place are a little short for demanding conditions and sometimes pull out allowing the gearbox cover to lift, which in turn allows the gears to skip, potentially damaging the teeth.  Replacing the screws with longer ones makes for a more reliable drivetrain. I think the ones I have are 14mm or thereabouts. 

 

[Dazza1976 15]

This is all great information and very helpful. For example the bulky Tamiya kit servo fitting I removed was the servo saver 

I’ll be putting that back in. I’ll re-read all these posts later so I take it all in. [edit: actually no it’s not a servo saver that comes with kit, it’s just some sort of Tamiya servo type mount so I think I was right to remove it]

 

i’ll post some internal pics later so you can all see what I mean.

cheers

 

Again in many thanks!

[TurnipJF 9192]

Rear axle:

There is a fair bit of lash between the diff ring and pinion gears in the rear axle, which can lead to premature wear. Luckily this is easily rectified by shimming it using two of the bushings left over from when you upgraded to bearings. (You did fit bearings during the build, didn't you?)

I don't have any pics of my rear axle in pieces, but the picture in the below link shows what to do:

https://goo.gl/images/U533SV

(Just use a plastic bushing in place of the larger bronze one shown - they are the same size and are acting purely as spacers, so wear is not an issue.)

[TurnipJF 9192]

Rear links:

One of the biggest improvements you can make to your CC-01's abilities once you have the steering and tyres sorted is to look at replacing the stock plastic rear links with something sturdier. The stock plastic ones tend to bind, don't allow full articulation and usually flex before the shocks react, robbing the car of damping and stability.

Many aftermarket options exist, as do homebrew solutions. My favourites are those made by JunFac, shown above. Not the cheapest, but exceptionally well-made and supplied with a sturdy steel bashplate which protects the chassis, lowers the CoG and provides a smoother underside that is less likely to get hung up on obstacles.

[TurnipJF 9192]

The "brick":

Another thing that hampers the CC-01 offroad is the shape of the chassis tub, which features an almost-vertical lower front area often referred to as the "brick". A rather extreme mod involves cutting it off with a hacksaw and fabricating an angled replacement which helps the chassis ride up and over obstacles. A less extreme alternative is to fit an angled bash plate. Several aftermarket options exist - I use the JunFac one pictured above.

[Dazza1976 15]

No I didn’t fit bearings during the build because I wanted to see how it was and was too impatient. Schoolboy error I know 

But I am happy to take the whole thing apart and grease it again. 

Ok so there are lots of upgrades, I like it. I should have been an engineer but ended up in an office. I’ll have to buy some tools, I made do with some inadequate tools during the build and not sure they will cut the mustard when I pull it apart again. 

Am I going to double my initial £230 outlay on this with upgrades?????

[Badcrumble 4201]

Tthe Tamiya tool set is 10% off through euro car parts on eBay at the moment - might slightly soften the blow if you can’t find it cheaper elsewhere.

[TurnipJF 9192]

You will go far with nothing more than a proper Tamiya JIS screwdriver and the tools supplied with the kit.

And yes, it is possible to spend several times the kit purchase price on upgrades. You don't have to though - apart from the bearings/shims, steel pinion and steering upgrades which are pretty much essential, the car can be a lot of fun in almost-stock form. It all depends on how far you want to go!

[Juggular 4964]

47 minutes ago, Dazza1976 said:

No I didn’t fit bearings during the build because I wanted to see how it was and was too impatient. Schoolboy error I know

I don't think that's a mistake. 

Since this is your first car, I'd say it's a good experience to see the stock performance.  The enthusiasm from being new will make you want to take it apart and put in the bearings anyway.  I'd go so far as to say, if you never had a car with plastic bushings, you've missed out (on seeing how inefficient those pearly whites are).  

P.S. I also think JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver is a good idea. 

 

[Mad Ax 9310]

Essential: 

Check your steering is set up correctly; install a bearing kit; shim the in rear axle (do this when you fit the bearings); get a JIS screwdriver set (Tamiya's blue set is awesome, have had mine for years); get a steering kit.

Worth doing but not essential:

Tyres, front bash plate or cut brick, 4-link kit and underguard.

After that, you can go as far as you want to go.