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Dazza1976

Newbie introduction

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Steel pinion:

The stock pinion supplied with the kit is made of lightweight aluminium which is rather soft and wears out quickly, leaving a grey sludge in the gearbox which accelerates wear to the other gears, as well as developing an odd tooth profile which destroys the spur gear. While you have the car apart to fit the bearings, it is a good idea to fit a steel pinion too.

You'll want a 0.6 module 16 tooth item.

This is the one I use:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-16-teeth/rc-car-products/13755

 

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Steering travel:

The CC-01 is not known for its tight turning circle, especially if you have locked the diffs. Many people therefore modify it for increased steering travel.

There are a few aspects to this mod. Firstly, you'll notice that the C-hubs have little plastic stoppers on them to limit the steering angle. If you cut these off, the steering can travel further, but the increased travel means that the dogbones can now pop out of their cups when turning sharply. This is addressed by replacing them with universals (either Tamiya or aftermarket - many options exist).

Once you have universals fitted, you can go for even more travel by either carving away some of the plastic from the uprights, or getting a pair of aftermarket alloy ones with the cutouts already machined into them such as the TA3021 parts from GPM. The former option is cheaper, the latter is stronger. (Just be aware that many aftermarket alloy uprights simply duplicate the plastic parts in metal and lack the cutouts that improve steering travel, such as those from Yeah Racing and Xtra Speed for example.)

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20 hours ago, Dazza1976 said:

Am I going to double my initial £230 outlay on this with upgrades?????

If you get hooked on coloured alloy bits, you could TRIPLE the outlay... :) 

 

meh other than bearings, upgrade only when you feel the need or break something.

i have a fleet of CC01s on hand for taking out to the local racing track with nonRC friends. They're better than touring cars as they need "less rescuing" ;) plus they look heaps better than jellymould racing blobs.

There's more than enough steering as stock to negotiate the track, they go quick enough on a stock 540 with smaller pinion. They'll traction roll if tyres are any grippier than kit tyres gone rockhard over the years.

But if you're into crawling on tight trails, yeah maybe you'll want tighter lock. And much lower gearing too, not highway running. 

Biggest annoyance with CC01 is the tub don't take lipos too easily. I need to use shorty packs which get bolted in, or mini packs made for 1/16 Traxxas cars.

btw LandFreeder wheel arches are pretty small & uses Honda CRV's smaller lower profile tyres; anything bigger will foul the body. You could hack the body or change for something else.

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47 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

LandFreeder wheel arches are pretty small & uses Honda CRV's smaller lower profile tyres; anything bigger will foul the body. You could hack the body or change for something else.

Or you could raise it, as below

aac1db278a67b8912c58a88086a35d56.jpg

 

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Guys again thanks for all this. Been busy week at work but I’ll be working on the truck again this weekend and heeding your advice/tips. 

Following pics of my servo mount

C449D690-25AE-4F80-AA66-5A2C949C3F54.jpeg

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Unable to post more (size restrictions) but I’ll figure it out this weekend and order JIS  screwdrivers and some bearings

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Bearings arrived from rcbearings and tyres/wheels ordered from RC4WD

Wheels and tyres chosen below, sure it won’t be last set I order!
 
hopefully these will do the job. I saw another LandFreeder on YouTube with 1.55 wheels and it looked good. 

Z-W0260 OEM Stamped Steel 1.55" Beadlock Wheels (White)

Edit Z-T0159 RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 1.55" Scale Tires

 

changed wranglers  to MUD THRASHERS 1.55" SCALE TIRES, it think they will be better bet as I’m not ready for full on crawling yet and the wranglers might by too soft.

bearings now installed, couldn’t quite shim the rear axle as suggested in this thread, had to use plastic bearinf and one brass bearing to shim.

40D5A3EA-2128-4681-BA28-383D469B8708.jpeg

E3B4E9A9-7BC2-424D-9835-26994B7AFAE9.jpeg

2B48617D-A4FF-4A01-872C-73C747032C50.jpeg

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