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friskyjim

best servo saver bits for racing fighter / carson reflex 3.1 pro

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Hi boys,

Is there an aluminium or similar hop up to the plastic P parts that come with the racing fighter dt03,  or what parts are best toconnect to carson servo.  Part P6 didn't work properley after all.
 

Is a futaba part - if anyone might be able to advise that would be great thanks.
 

Also - on a different note - whats the best hop up to the carson - what can take alot of bashing - a race servo - if so whats your opinion and advice - which servo - don't mind buying one as long as it's bits don't break from smashing about.   cheers

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Tamiya 51000 Hi Torque to replace P-parts. Is a recommended hop-up on the side of the box too iirc. 

Cant comment on the actual servo. 

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For a basher you don't need a terribly fast servo, just a tough one. You therefore don't need to pay big bucks for a high-end race servo - just something with metal gears will do the trick. I find the Alturn servo range to offer good value and reliability. This one should suit your needs nicely:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-torque-/rc-car-products/359784

It follows the common Tamiya/Futaba spline standard, so you shouldn't have any difficulty fitting the servo saver of your choice.

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cheers chaps, great advice - I got the tamiya p6 white part on and it worked for a while, , took it to a local RC shop/chap here in devon and he said 'it's not the right part'    he then put something else on it (don't know what) and that servo saver bit just snapped off after a not so heavy collision with some shrubbery. 

Where I'm struggling is  (yep I'm struggling all over the place)  ...but what my mind is struggling to understand.is,  what P part is it that is supposed to fit onto the carson servo that I have,  and also, which specific tamiya 'white bits P parts' do I put on the Altum servo specifically?  (which I will probably buy)

Sorry to be a ballache with all these questions, and thanks again.
 

 

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11 minutes ago, friskyjim said:

which specific tamiya 'white bits P parts' do I put on the Altum servo specifically?  (which I will probably buy)

As the Alturn servo uses a Futaba spline fitment, the specific part you will want for the Alturn servo is part P5 - the one that says FUTABA TAMIYA on it.

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On your P parts there should have been a couple of the splined discs that fit the servo. Some servos have 25t spline, some 24t, some 23t. You need to check the spec of the servo for the spline then pick the right disc. 

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If you do want to upgrade though, I use a Kimborough medium servo saver on my DT03 which is much tighter than the kit tamiya one. 

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As far as servos go, look at the Savox 1251MG or 1258TG. I run them in my offroad race buggies and they have lasted 2 years and still going strong. I bought them secondhand too.

I have run the Trackstar TS-D99X in both my onroad racers and they have been great too, but have only been used for about a year. These are a cheaper alternative, I don't believe ghe claimed specs but they have been good enough for me.

I really rate the Savox 1258TG and that will be my go to in future, but its standard size not low profile.

I destroyed a Futaba S3003 in 3mins in my 4wd buggy by comparison.

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8 hours ago, friskyjim said:

what P part is it that is supposed to fit onto the carson servo that I have, 

I forgot how I used to marvel at all these parts. They are all cleverly designed.  

Anyway, there are servo horns that do not have "saver" part like below.  This is not recommended unless your servo is strong.  You can see the splines (teeth) in the hole.  

j3CY71D.jpg

This blue horn directly fits onto the servo.  But it must have the same number of splines (above has "T" for Tamiya).  If you have a non-matching servo horn, but force it down, you will ruin the splines (either on the servo or the servo saver part).  

VfNZzNY.jpg

Servo "saver" has a "C-spring" between servo and servo horn.  Unlike one-piece design like above, servo savers usually have 3 components.  One that's attached to the steering linkages (horns), a C-spring in between, and a disc that attaches to the servo. 

C-spring stretches a bit.  If the steering gets kicked around by the bumpy ground, C-spring absorbs some of those shocks.  That's what "saves" the servo.  

In below P parts, you can see one C-spring.  But it has two horns. Those horns have different depths.  Depending on the car, the instruction tells you which one to pick.  This sprue shows 3 caps (discs) that goes onto the servo.  You can't see it from this photo, but undersides have a hole for 23 splines, 24 splines and 25 splines each.  And on the underside, it will say things like "Futaba/Tamiya" or "Sanwa."  These discs are company specific.  Futaba and Tamiya servos have 25 splines.  If Alturn has 25 splines, Futaba/Tamiya will fit.  Depends on your servo, you pick one of these 3.  

I don't even bother cutting all 3 off the sprues.  I take the servo, and stick it into all 3 caps one by one.  If one fits, I just cut that one out.  Then you put the C-spring, servo horn, and the little plastic washer, and screw it onto the servo.  If you try to move the horn you installed by hand, you will notice that the C-ring spreads before the servo moves.  That's the "saving" part. 

Once you know how it works, you can modify it.  Zip-tying around the C-ring, for example (it's a ghetto mod).  C-ring can't spread much, so your servo saver becomes a lot stronger and sharper to react.  You don't want to zip-tie if you are using a weak Futaba S3003 servo on a 6 pound short course truck, because that will blow the servo.  But most servos are stronger than S3003 these days.  

QPgdlm4.jpg

 

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absolutely first class advice lads, many many thanks,  the info you supplied with photos really sets your mind straight if you are on a  (steep) learning curve like me (admittedly - I'm certainly not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to RC)  but learning fast.  thank you jugglar and the rest of you. 

I got the hi torque servo from tony (tonystamiyaparts975)  on ebay (good chap too)

Tamiya Hi-torque servo saver part no: 50473 (SP-476)  - white version of part 51000

tam servo.jpg

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oops....:wacko:.. frisky jim not very frisky -   remember what I said about not the sharpest tool in the shed,  more like a teet short of an udder.
"Dime bar?"
Here's the reason for my self deprication (before anyone else does it) ;)
Today I have mostly been........Putting together the new servo saver bits (as per the instructions ( got the hi-torque saver bits)
Now, upon fitting, the servo mount and servo/steering don't go through 'ole!!!!!       The mount no longer slots in place inside the chassis and the whole thing just won't slip in (oo-er)
Aghhhh - I could crush a grape tommy!!

See pic 1 - for servo bits on,
pic 2 for steering rods that don't go through hole in tub anymore
pic 3 for instructions.

It's the Tamiya Hi-torque servo saver part no: 50473 (SP-476)  - white version of part 51000

As per instructions with the hi-torque tamiya parts - i've used part Q1,then put all 3 metal rings onto part Q1,(TamiyaFutaba)   -  then used part Q2,   then part Q4 onto Q2, joined the whole lot up and screwed to servo, then attached steering rods.  As you can see from pic 1 it's probably the whole size of the bits that are stopping me mounting the servo in the chassis.

Any ideas (apart from get my son a new hobby?) 

Thank fellas.  Upmost respec......

sp1.jpg

sp2.jpg

sp3.jpg

sp4.jpg

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I had some fun fitting the Hi Torque servo mount. You need to look in the Aqroshot manual for the correct orientation iirc. 

https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58610.pdf

Page 15.

Might be how you have already set it up however. Iirc from mine the ball cups (end of steering rods) needed rotating on the wheel end 90deg to fit. Don’t change anything till you are sure though. I may be misremembering.

Looking at your picture though. The ball connectors need to be swapped to the other side of the saver so effectively the ball connectors are between servo and saver otherwise the steering rods can foul the chassis. The last picture shows what I mean. Again, might just have been my bad luck be worth mentioning as the kit saver has a step in and the Hi Torque doesn’t hence the need to mount differently to avoid contact.

As for the steering rods. They don’t come out of that bottom hole. That’s for access to the servo saver screw. The rods come out of the hole above your thumb in the recessed area. One each side. 

EDIT: some pictures of mine. 

47463678792_136ace173e.jpg

47463678912_0b52049dd1.jpg

42038656502_0c83edb03c.jpg

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Ahhhhhh monk3y.... you are a spiffing fellow thank you - the most elementary of errors by me there?    - I've been messing about with the steering rods on and off for a week or two so I should be used to putting them through the side holes and not the hole near my thumb on photo 2 - jeez?!! ....bit of a muppet today I am...too much sun maybe?  
WIll take a look at those instructions too.  thanks to you for your help.

 

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I once glued 400 pieces of track links on a scale model tank backwards. :o That was a whole day wasted...  

 

 

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1 hour ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

I had some fun fitting the Hi Torque servo mount. You need to look in the Aqroshot manual for the correct orientation iirc. 

https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58610.pdf

Page 15.

Might be how you have already set it up however. Iirc from mine the ball cups (end of steering rods) needed rotating on the wheel end 90deg to fit. Don’t change anything till you are sure though. I may be misremembering.

Looking at your picture though. The ball connectors need to be swapped to the other side of the saver so effectively the ball connectors are between servo and saver otherwise the steering rods can foul the chassis. The last picture shows what I mean. Again, might just have been my bad luck be worth mentioning as the kit saver has a step in and the Hi Torque doesn’t hence the need to mount differently to avoid contact.

As for the steering rods. They don’t come out of that bottom hole. That’s for access to the servo saver screw. The rods come out of the hole above your thumb in the recessed area. One each side.

Yes... I've checked page 15 and can see the orientation - specifically the ball connectors are other way round.... will swap that tomorrow.
Brilliant advice and well spotted with the ball connector thing monk3y thanks again!   
Must buy you all a pint each if you're down devon way chaps - that's going to be some expensive round of drinks (with all the help I've had off you all)
cheers.

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3 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Looking at your picture though. The ball connectors need to be swapped to the other side of the saver so effectively the ball connectors are between servo and saver otherwise the steering rods can foul the chassis. The last picture shows what I mean. Again, might just have been my bad luck be worth mentioning as the kit saver has a step in and the Hi Torque doesn’t hence the need to mount differently to avoid contact.

 

monk3y, do the steering rods still have to be 50mm each (as per the tamiya manual)  
 or did you just lengthen/shorten yours to fit?

sorry if this is silly question, I'm just going to go with 50mm unless I hear different.


 

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2 hours ago, friskyjim said:

monk3y, do the steering rods still have to be 50mm each (as per the tamiya manual)  
 or did you just lengthen/shorten yours to fit?

sorry if this is silly question, I'm just going to go with 50mm unless I hear different.


 

The kit usually suggests a pretty neutral setting for them, which is usually a bit of toe out (ie wheels pointing outwards, the right wheel will point a bit to the right like its turning right and vice versa on the left, if that makes sense). You can adjust the length to get the amount of toe out/in you want, i think its usually 1 - 3 dgerees, so not much at all. Toe out makes it a but more stable but at the cost of speed.

So, get it all centred (no doubt you'll need to adjust the trim on the stering servo), put them in at the 50mm and then see how the wheels are pointing. This is where turnbuckles are great, you can adjust them on the car. You'll need to pop one side off and tighten or loosen the ball cup. You at least need the wheels to be the same on each side, and ideally pointing out just a little bit, like 1 or 2 degrees. It will never be perfect with a DT03 anyway due to slop in the steering, but just get it close.

I've been looking for setups on my Ultima RB6.6 and most actually say 0 degrees toe out, with a few saying 1 degree. I think @ThunderDragonCy has a DT03 and is a guru when it comes to setup. Hopefully what I've said above is right...

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What @Jonathon Gillham says is quite right. 

I cant recall at the minute exactly what I have mine set at but will definitely have started and will still be roughly 50mm as per kit. 

I’d personally get it running true via trim and steering rod adjustment first and worry about the rest later as it can end up as a bit of a rabbit hole chasing things.

Turnbuckles can help make life easier adjusting but it’s more money (admittedly not a huge amount but still!)

Change one thing, make a note, see how it goes/effects another etc. 

These are worth a read though...

https://www.rcscrapyard.net/tips.html

And for a pretty in-depth read...

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Hopefully though someone like Cy who has a better grasp on this aspect will be along at some point with some advice/guidance as he did a lot of tweaking geometry/suspension with his DT03.

 

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You are too kind chaps. It can be pretty hard to get the steering completely straight just on the servo so adjusters are useful for minor tweaks. As the guys said above either zero or a tiny bit toe out is good. 

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cheers guys - thanks for the info.  Promise no more naive newbie(ish) questions.

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41 minutes ago, friskyjim said:

cheers guys - thanks for the info.  Promise no more naive newbie(ish) questions.

Never stop asking questions! 😉

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ok.... thanks Thunder nice one... :)   I was telling of lies when I said that.... 

Just put the servo back on and steering is really weak -hardly turns to the right -left also weak but not quite as bad.

Looking at it the front end (the whole front wheel area) lifts about when moving left and right and both left and right steering is weak, - poor turning circle, very poor
. any ideas what I have done wrong.
 

I'm starting to think that the ball joints should be the normal way round and that the angle of the stering rods are too steep to the servo (steering rods to servo) ?  (I've played about with the length of the steering rods also but to no effect.

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ahhhh...that's better, have swapped the ball thingys over to the other side and steering working now

- have to use the trim on the transmitter as not going in a straight line - might play/shorten the steering rods a little one side that I lengthened during the refitting process  - will have to look at that link you sent monk3y
 

 

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Glad you got sorted. 

Strange about the ball connectors. I definitely had issues. Wonder if its a buggy vs truggy/monster wheel thing. Can’t recall what wheels I was running at the time now. 

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thanks for your help anyway monk3y, yeah could be a difference in the interior angle of the servo mount (or something?) in the truggy vs buggy)    but those instructions certainly helped clear things up a lot and it was good too for the practice I got on the servo parts - certainly wouldn't have got anywhere without your advice and help - and for helping with my very obvious and glaring mistake with me trying to put the steering rods through the servo-screw hole ...doh.
 

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