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SurreyDad

Tamiya M-07R Chassis Kit build #84436

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This is my first build thread, my first road car but my fifth kit build (approximately one a year). Apologies upfront if I go into too much or too little detail. I already tend to photograph my progress as this ensures that I am selecting the correct parts for every step (measure twice and cut once). It also prolongs the enjoyment of building a kit and is a good way of keeping a record.
I’m pretty sure that the hop-ups are not a financially sensible route to take but my preference is to build the kit with the hop-ups and keep the standard parts unused, plus the financially sensible thing to do would have been to pay off some mortgage but where’s the fun in that.

M-07R box

There are already a couple of other excellent M-07 build threads which go into detail of the kit build so I’ll just show the hop-ups I’ve added plus any comments on any features or tricky areas that I think might be of interest.

I thought that it would be beneficial to list the extra parts that come with this kit (over the M-07 Concept version #58647) and also the additional hop-ups I’ll be using.

First off, the following option parts/hop-ups are included with this kit:

M-07 Concept High-Traction Lower Deck #54812
TRF Special Damper (Hard Black Coating) #42102
M-07 Concept Reinforced C Parts (Uprights) 2pcs. #54810
M-07 Concept Reinforced D Parts (Suspension Arms) 2pcs. #54811
33mm Double Cardan Joint Shaft (2pcs.) #42312
Clamp Type Aluminium Wheel Hub (5mm Thick) #53823
Rear Stabilizer
– NOTE: the manual states that this is #54757, although checking online, #54757 is for the set (front and rear plus hard and soft). The kit just contains the hard rear stabilizer rod, I guess the front is stable enough?
Aluminium Cup Joint for TA06 Gear Differential Unit (2pcs.) #54532
Hard Fluorine Coated 0.6 Aluminium Pinion Gear (20T) #53509
2.6mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft Set for Reversible Suspension #53917
46mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shafts 2pcs. #53851
3x106mm Aluminium Turnbuckle Shaft #54756

The following additional parts and hop-ups are being added. I wasn’t sure if the kit was going to come with tyres or inserts so bought some just in case although I have no idea how good they are. I’ve also got a couple of body shells plus paint and I have a couple of designs in mind:

Tamiya M07 Aluminium Rear Uprights Set Blue #54781
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Rear Suspension Mount 4 pcs Blue #54760
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Steering Arm 1 pair Blue #54763
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Front Suspension Mount 6degree Blue #54780
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Steering Bridge Blue #54764
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Motor Heat Sink Blue #54759
Tamiya M07 Carbon Rear Damper Stay Set #54762
Tamiya M07 Carbon Front Damper Stay Set #54761
Tamiya M07 Carbon Bumper Support Set Black #54791
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Centre Shaft Silver #54767
Tamiya M07 Aluminium Counter Shaft Silver #54766
Tamiya TA06 Cross Shaft for Gear Differential Unit #54311
Tamiya TA06 Aluminium Differential Unit Cover #54602
Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Radial Tires (2 pairs) #50683
Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Inner Sponge x4 #50686
Yeah Racing Aluminium Front Steering Knuckle Set #TAMC-030BU
Yeah Racing Aluminium C-Hub Set #TAMC-029BU

M-07R Hop ups

The following are existing parts that I already have that will be used with this build (to prove that I’m saving money by reusing parts). As mentioned, I have no experience of road cars so not sure how these will perform but I am happy to try it out and change to brushless later if I feel that I need more performance.

Hobbywing QUICRUN 1060 ESC
Tamiya Torque Tuned motor
Servo
Spektrum receiver
nVision 3700 2S LiPo

My first impression of the box is that it’s a lot smaller than I was expecting but I guess other kits I’ve had before contain the body, tyres, ESC and motor. It just looks like a standard box with an extra flap showing the details of the M-07R kit, there are no sections or layers and everything is just packed in pretty neatly. Looking through the parts the standard plastic parts come in clear bags whereas the reinforced parts come in thicker blue plastic bags. Also included is a manual, decals and an antenna pipe and it looks like all the screws are hexes.

Parts

M-07R Plastics

Parts bags

M-07R Metal bag

The M-07 can be assembled in either in either medium (225mm) or long (239mm) wheelbase options and I’ll be following the medium - 225mm instructions.
The first thing I did was to run through the instructions and add mini post-it notes to the steps where I will be adding the hop-ups to ensure that I don’t miss them. I also wanted to highlight the parts where I should follow the medium wheel base steps (29-36) instead of the long wheelbase steps (21-28).

Finally before I start, the manual states the following:

As this kit is for experienced users, design tolerances of parts are very tight. Files and drills will be used for fine adjustment. Make threads using Thread Forming Tap.

I bought the Tamiya M3 X 0.5mm Tread Forming Tap #54232 and practised using it on one of the shock towers (this part will not be used). I’m pleased to say that this has worked really well, just slowly screw it in to the desired depth and then unscrew it. When putting in the actual screw I turned the screw anti-clockwise for about a quarter of a turn before screwing it in correctly.

See below for a ball connector test fitting:

M-07R Thread Forming tap

Right, time to get started..
 

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Step 1
Kit hop-ups: M-07 Concept High-Traction Lower Deck #54812 – I haven’t seen (and cannot find) any information on this so I’m not too sure of any advantages.

Instead of using the blue aluminium 5mm ball connectors, I’ll be using the Fluorine 5mm ball connectors (#53598), after a quick Google, it looks like the fluorine coating is similar to Teflon to give a reduction in friction.

M-07R - Step 1 Complete

Step 2
Kit hop-ups: Aluminium Cup Joint for TA06 Gear Differential Unit (2pcs.) #54532
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya TA06 Cross Shaft for Gear Differential Unit #54311
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya TA06 Aluminium Differential Unit Cover #54602

 

M-07R - Step 2 Parts

The TA06 cross shaft comes in two parts, I found it a lot easier to add the two gears to one of the shafts, put it into the diff case and then add the second shaft with the other 2 gears on it.

M-07R - Step 2 Parts 3

The diff cover is very nicely made and everything fits together really well.

M-07R - Step 2 Parts 2 M-07R - Step 2 Parts 2 M-07R - Step 2 Done

**Tangent alert** One thing that I noticed with the manual and the part codes is how the same part is given a different code for different models. For example, I have been comparing the M07-R and M07 Concept manuals and on step 2 - making the differential instructions there are differences in part codes:

1.6 x 8mm shaft – this is part MA10 for the M-07R but MA6 for the M-07 Concept
5 x 10 x 0.3mm shim – this is part MA11 for the M-07R but MA12 for the M-07 Concept
5mm red O-ring – this is part MA12 for the M-07R but MA7 for the M-07 Concept

Looking at the parts list, I am assuming that MA1 stands for Metal A bag part 1 and MB5 is Metal B bag part 5, etc. The part is then named after the first bag it appears in, for example the 850 bearing is first used in bag A and is given the code MA8 but the 730 bearing is first used in bag B and is given the name MB10. Apologies if you knew this but I haven’t noticed it before and as a double-check I looked at a couple of other manuals and have found the same thing. I guess it’s not a big deal but it has just made me aware that if I mention a code, it may not translate to the correct part on a similar chassis.

Step 3
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Centre Shaft Silver #54767
This part was cheap and saves 1g so I added it.

M-07R - Step 3 Parts

Step 3 uses an 850 bearing (8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm) and step 4 uses an 840 bearing (8mm x 4mm x 3mm). I found it really difficult to tell the difference between them even after comparing them to the 1:1 pictures in the manual. It will be immediately obvious if the wrong one is used as the bearing will not fit on the centre shaft (kit part MA13), see below:

M-07R - Step 3 Bearing

As Blista mentioned in his build thread, add the sponge to the motor mount in this step, before screwing the motor mount in and not in step 4. I forgot that information and it was definitely fiddlier to apply it once the motor mount was screwed in.

Step 4
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Counter Shaft Silver #54766
This part was also cheap and saves 1.5g.

M-07R - Step 4 Parts

I used the kit supplied molybdenum grease on all the gears (although added after the photo below).

M-07R - Step 4 Parts 2

Step 5
For this step, I stuck the aluminium glass tape on the inside of the chassis (instead of the outside as per the manual) and to counter the issue of the adhesive attracting dust, sand, etc. I cut out part of one of the plastic bags and stuck it on to the exposed tape (it looks better than it sounds..I’ll get a photo).

This is the end of bag A and to get to this stage took a couple of enjoyable hours but I took my time over the thread tapping and I really savoured the whole process. Everything feels very solid and smooth and I can hopefully get Bag B completed tomorrow.

M-07R - Step 5 Done

 

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I approve whole heartedly of the excessive use of blue bits 😂

And the detail/musings are great.

Will be following with interest. I don’t want a road car/chassis, but there’s that little thought banging around the back of my head saying try it!

Any ideas on body/shell, or do we have to wait for the big reveal?

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47 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

I approve whole heartedly of the excessive use of blue bits 😂

And the detail/musings are great.

Will be following with interest. I don’t want a road car/chassis, but there’s that little thought banging around the back of my head saying try it!

Any ideas on body/shell, or do we have to wait for the big reveal?

I had never thought about a road car before but I knew I wanted something that was a bit difference to our other cars and something that had a lot of upgrade options.

I really enjoy the masking/painting part (hate the cutting though) but I'm not sure about a big reveal. There didn't seem to be a massive choice or availability of Tamiya bodies in the UK (postage was really expensive from elsewhere). I have gone with the 225 mm wheelbase and chosen the Suzuki Go Pro Super Swift as the main choice and then the Mazda MX-5 which I know is technically incorrect on many levels but I saw some amazing looking designs.

If I mess one of the bodies up, I'll edit this comment to just show the one!

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1 hour ago, SurreyDad said:

I had never thought about a road car before but I knew I wanted something that was a bit difference to our other cars and something that had a lot of upgrade options.

I really enjoy the masking/painting part (hate the cutting though) but I'm not sure about a big reveal. There didn't seem to be a massive choice or availability of Tamiya bodies in the UK (postage was really expensive from elsewhere). I have gone with the 225 mm wheelbase and chosen the Suzuki Go Pro Super Swift as the main choice and then the Mazda MX-5 which I know is technically incorrect on many levels but I saw some amazing looking designs.

If I mess one of the bodies up, I'll edit this comment to just show the one!

Very cool build. Lot of Tuning parts, but you will not get the best performance out of them all with your tire choice. You should have chosen the 60D S-Grip Radial tires, they are a good universal choice, especially on not prepped tracks, or in the rain. The 60D Radials are too hard from the compound. 

Otherwise it´s cool to see all the available Hopups for the M07...:)

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1 hour ago, SurreyDad said:

If I mess one of the bodies up, I'll edit this comment to just show the one!

Good plan 😂

Your comments regarding the mx5 not being technically right is one of my ‘issues’. I’d want a fwd shell and none really take my fancy. 

I look forward to more updates. 

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19 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Very cool build. Lot of Tuning parts, but you will not get the best performance out of them all with your tire choice. You should have chosen the 60D S-Grip Radial tires, they are a good universal choice, especially on not prepped tracks, or in the rain. The 60D Radials are too hard from the compound. 

Otherwise it´s cool to see all the available Hopups for the M07...:)

Ah, thank you @ruebiracer, I did have a feeling that I hadn't bought the best tyres and I currently have 2 pairs of #53254 sat in my basket. Are these the correct ones?

I also went with #50686 inserts but do you know if I should have gone with #53255?

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29 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Good plan 😂

Your comments regarding the mx5 not being technically right is one of my ‘issues’. I’d want a fwd shell and none really take my fancy. 

I look forward to more updates. 

Yes, the lack of choice was not great, I had also looked at some of the HPI 225mm shells which look great but they were also all RWD.

I'm now wondering if the MX-5 shell would fit on an M-08...

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49 minutes ago, SurreyDad said:

I'm now wondering if the MX-5 shell would fit on an M-08...

Slippy slope 😂

I imagine it will though as it can be set up as 225 wheelbase. 

 

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1 hour ago, SurreyDad said:

Ah, thank you @ruebiracer, I did have a feeling that I hadn't bought the best tyres and I currently have 2 pairs of #53254 sat in my basket. Are these the correct ones?

I also went with #50686 inserts but do you know if I should have gone with #53255?

Yes, 53254 are the ones I mean. I Always use the hard inserts 53255 on them, as they give more support in the sidewall, and they last longer.;)

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1 hour ago, SurreyDad said:

Yes, the lack of choice was not great, I had also looked at some of the HPI 225mm shells which look great but they were also all RWD.

I'm now wondering if the MX-5 shell would fit on an M-08...

It will, already announced in the official description. (S, M and L wheelbase).

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15 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Yes, 53254 are the ones I mean. I Always use the hard inserts 53255 on them, as they give more support in the sidewall, and they last longer.;)

Many thanks, ordered. :)

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Nice build so far...

 

I have just just built an M07. I was underwhelmed by the body choice. But fairly happy with the result after liberal stickering. It bog standard with a silver can. Gonna try the 24t pinion. 

D4D9C398-B111-4B30-853D-BA84C8A112F6.jpeg

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13 hours ago, Butler said:

Nice build so far...

 

I have just just built an M07. I was underwhelmed by the body choice. But fairly happy with the result after liberal stickering. It bog standard with a silver can. Gonna try the 24t pinion. 

D4D9C398-B111-4B30-853D-BA84C8A112F6.jpeg

Nice! What body is that?

I'd be interesting to see how it goes with a 24t pinion and the silver can. 

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24 minutes ago, SurreyDad said:

Nice! What body is that?

I'd be interesting to see how it goes with a 24t pinion and the silver can. 

Mazda 2/Demio.

A few of us race on a car park track. (2x M07s, 3x M05s)

I am really impressed with the M07. Feels really sharp, but still fun. Nice amount of lift off over-steer.

I think low torque suits these cars, so taller gearing might be good, especially on tarmac with stock 60D tyres.

 

Attached is the other M07 with a shell from ThunderDragonCy's link.

fullsizeoutput_8b4.jpeg

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Nice to see a build on one of these. I don't have any M chassis or these latest span frame tubs so it's interesting to see the details. If you are looking for variety on shells then check out Raceracft RC. It's where I got my RS200 shell from and there is an m-chassis version, plus many more

https://www.racecraftrc.co.uk/shop-1

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9 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Nice to see a build on one of these. I don't have any M chassis or these latest span frame tubs so it's interesting to see the details. If you are looking for variety on shells then check out Raceracft RC. It's where I got my RS200 shell from and there is an m-chassis version, plus many more

https://www.racecraftrc.co.uk/shop-1

Excellent, many thanks for that, I've bookmarked the page. :)

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First off, a photo of the aluminium glass tape on the bottom of the chassis.

M-07R - Step 5

I then gave the screws all a slight tighten from the previous steps.

Step 6
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Front Suspension Mount 6degree Blue #54780
Kit hop-ups: M-07 Concept Reinforced D Parts (Suspension Arms) 2pcs. #54811
Kit hop-ups: 46mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shafts 2pcs. #53851

M-07R - Step 6

According to the online information:
The standard front suspension mount is 5 degrees, however the 6-degree angle provides more stability on long straights and smooth controllability and is more suited to high-speed track layouts. There is also a 4-degree angle option to provide more bite in the turns and is more suited to short and technical course tracks. As I will be using the car in a wide open car park, I went for the higher speed option.

This step also included the first cross head screw, used to stop the suspension shafts from coming out of the end of the arms. The other end is retained against the front bumper.

M-07R - Step 6 Done

Step 7 was just attaching the suspension mount and arms to the chassis so..
Step 8
Extra hop-ups: Yeah Racing Aluminium Front Steering Knuckle Set #TAMC-030BU
Kit hop-ups: 33mm Double Cardan Joint Shaft (2pcs.) #42312
Kit hop-ups: M-07 Concept Reinforced C Parts (Uprights) 2pcs. #54810 – I'm not using these.

I thought that I would split this step into two parts:

Part 1 - Assembling the drive shafts. As mentioned before, this is the first M chassis car I have built or have actually seen and it keeps on surprising me as to how small the parts are, from the shock towers to the suspension arms, it’s all just so…er..small.
The driveshafts went together relatively easily, slightly fiddly to get the shafts into the cross joints and also to get the axle rings on.

M-07R - Step 8 Part 1

Part 2 – Assembling the front axles. I am using the Yeah Racing steering knuckles and c-hubs although I’m not sure why there aren’t Tamiya versions of these.

M-07R - Step 8 Part 2

Firstly, the positives, the colour exactly matches the Tamiya blue and the first front axle went together seamlessly. Now the negatives, firstly I had to use the YR 10mm ball connector and spacer instead of being able to use the Fluorine ball connectors due to the design of the knuckle, not too much of a big deal though.

M-07R - Step 8 knuckle

However, of greater concern (and stress), on the second axle, it felt like I couldn’t get the MB9 (1050 3mm) bearing into the hub far enough (see below). This meant that the drive shaft did not protrude enough out of the knuckle to be able to get the pin in for the clamping wheel hub. With a bit of force, I was able to just slide the pin in but the axle was slightly binding. I almost went back to the standard parts but after one final push, using the box wrench, I was able to get it to work.

M-07R - Step 8 issue

Step 9
Extra hop-ups: Yeah Racing Aluminium C-Hub Set #TAMC-029BU 

 

M-07R - Step 9 start

After the tricky step 8, this step was quick and easy and I was able to use the Fluorine ball connectors instead of the YR parts.

It has taken 2 hours to get to this step so tea break time.

M-07R - Step 9 done

Step 10
Kit hop-ups: 2.6mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft Set for Reversible Suspension #53917

 

M-07R - Step 10 start

I really didn’t enjoy making the connectors, I considered briefly using the thread tap but I assumed that I would only be able to use it in one of the rod ends but couldn’t work out which one.

Step 11 was just attaching the chassis stiffeners so..
Step 12
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Steering Arm 1 pair Blue #54763
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Steering Bridge Blue #54764

 

M-07R - Step 12 M-07R - Step 12 hopup

Again, I didn’t enjoy making the connectors but everything went together really nicely, the steering racks uses a total of 6 bearings.

M-07R - Step 12 done 2

Step 13
Extra hop-ups: Tamiya M07 Aluminium Motor Heat Sink Blue #54759

 

M-07R - Step 13

Step 14
Kit hop-ups: Hard Fluorine Coated 0.6 Aluminium Pinion Gear (20T) #53509

This is the point that I stopped because I looked at the Torque tuned motor and it had been slung under a GF-01 for a couple of years and looked slightly worse for wear. I couldn’t bring myself round to putting it into this shiny new chassis so I have just ordered a Sports Tuned motor. I am not sure if this will be too fast for the area I drive in but if it is, I have a Mad Bull that would appreciate it.
Looking at the manual, this will not hold things up as I can add the motor at any time.

M-07R - Step 13 Done

 

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I appreciate the depth and notes in this build thread. It helps to spread the enjoyment of watching this neat little kit come together :)

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Nice build and hop up parts. Can't wait to see it finished.

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You can use Tamiya 53599 fluorine coated ball nuts to replace the Yeah Racing balls used on the knuckles. You would put a M3 machine screw in the knuckle from the bottom, screw it all the way through the knuckle, slide the spacer onto it, then top it with the ball nut. You can also use them on the steering link in place of the blue ones. You would then have fluorine coated goodness throughout the car.

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20 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

You can use Tamiya 53599 fluorine coated ball nuts to replace the Yeah Racing balls used on the knuckles. You would put a M3 machine screw in the knuckle from the bottom, screw it all the way through the knuckle, slide the spacer onto it, then top it with the ball nut. You can also use them on the steering link in place of the blue ones. You would then have fluorine coated goodness throughout the car.

Ah thank you for that and yes that would work but whoa, they are expensive (£11.39 + postage for 10 in the UK). I'll pop them onto the wishlist and add them to the next order :D.

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A short update, I’ll be coming back to steps 15 & 16 so..

Step 17 - 19
Kit hop-ups: TRF Special Damper (Hard Black Coating) #42102

 

M-07R - Step 17 Start

Very simple to build with just one rubber X-ring, it’s a different profile to the standard O-rings with flat edges, similar to a spacer.
I was surprised as to how far I had to wind the spring tension adjuster down to meet the spring. I am sure that there is a reason for it but not sure why a bigger spring could not be used.

M-07R - Step 18

Medium spring (yellow) in the front and hard (blue) for the rear.

M-07R - Step 19

 

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44 minutes ago, SurreyDad said:

I was surprised as to how far I had to wind the spring tension adjuster down to meet the spring. I am sure that there is a reason for it but not sure why a bigger spring could not be used.

Had the same with the GF01 alloy shocks. Had me wondering if I’d missed something at first. 

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