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graemevw

Vanquish rebuild

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1 minute ago, graemevw said:

Depends what body i use ;)

If you can draw the shape in 2D CAD (even Google Sketchup would do it) and get it into autocad dxf file format, fibre lyte will make you any shape you want.

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1 minute ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

If you can draw the shape in 2D CAD (even Google Sketchup would do it) and get it into autocad dxf file format, fibre lyte will make you any shape you want.

I was wondering on the way to work how id go about drawing parts up to get cut. There are 5 parts id like, i was going to do it by hand as im no good with computers. Girlfriend is though.

Ill talk to her later and probably start a thread on how its done :)

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The way i did the cables on my batteries ment i had to extend the original hole.

FcVAgk9.jpg

Means they fit my grasshopper too, they are the two cars with the biggest issues.

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Im also thinking about drawing these parts up so i can get them cut in carbon fibre.

mF8D3f1.jpg

I can make alloy spacers to replace the needed bosses. I think that would solve most of the vanquish fragility without losing the tub. Should make for a stronger car and most of the other parts are easily replacable. Keep the rear shock tower where it should be and mount on brackets like an avante. 

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That´s the best way in my opinion, too. Did it with my FRP plates, thought about making the upperdeck, too. Could have the charm of relocating the steering servo a little. Maybe in a later stage.  That would really help you to save as much Vanquish ID as possible, without worrying About fragility of the hardened out old plastic parts. Chassis will make no problem. And if there will someday be a Rere, we all can have fresh plastic parts for a good price. 

 

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47 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

That´s the best way in my opinion, too. Did it with my FRP plates, thought about making the upperdeck, too. Could have the charm of relocating the steering servo a little. Maybe in a later stage.  That would really help you to save as much Vanquish ID as possible, without worrying About fragility of the hardened out old plastic parts. Chassis will make no problem. And if there will someday be a Rere, we all can have fresh plastic parts for a good price. 

 

Ill draw these parts out before i build the car (its all cleaned and ready).

Then ill build it stock and look at getting these made.

I have spare gearboxes and the egress bits, if i got another tub and a front/rear bumper i could probably build a second, bullet proof vanquish. A rere vanquish is the one thing id buy in a heartbeat without even thinking 😎

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I did find a NIB one for £475. I was tempted, but it still doesnt solve the spares issue.

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Completely forgot i was supposed to be documenting this!

Its been a real struggle deciding how to build it. In the end i went with gold uprights, hi caps, bearing steering and steering turnbuckles and the dyna tech. I have the ball diffs but built it with gear diffs. I have rere universals but kept the stock front universals and rear dog bones. I decided against using rere egress chassis plates but will work on some carbon parts for this later. 

oCYywdZ.jpg

It obviously has full bearings throughout. 

I have some avante front metal ball ends for the top links, i may fit them, unsure if its worthwhile.

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I have a new gearbox metal plate and all new hardware i could have used, but im trying to keep as much original as possible. Ill keep all the original parts together so it can be put back 100% stock if i ever want to. I e decided im probably going to run this though hence the upgrades.

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Been generally checking this over and a few things are coming to light.

Front shock tower has snapped again. Im not surprised, thought it would the first time i drove it, but it went checking suspension travel. I have ordered an aluminium 2001 tower. Doesnt give me much hope for the repaired G11, but im wary of running the good G11 i also have.

It seems to sit a little high on the egress spec hi caps, no problem, ill put some spacers in them.

Rear chassis bottoms out at the same time as the shocks but front doesnt. I might try and modify the 2001 tower or use it as a template to make a slightly higher one. Is it really worth trying to get the chassis to bottom out?

The tyres are a little old and need glueing. I was thinking about maybe getting the narrower front tyres and narrowing the front avante wheels.

Also thinking about fitting alloy C parts now, before the originals break.

Seems like i am ending up building this into a reliable runner rather than a nice shelfer. 

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5 hours ago, graemevw said:

Been generally checking this over and a few things are coming to light.

Front shock tower has snapped again. Im not surprised, thought it would the first time i drove it, but it went checking suspension travel. I have ordered an aluminium 2001 tower. Doesnt give me much hope for the repaired G11, but im wary of running the good G11 i also have.

It seems to sit a little high on the egress spec hi caps, no problem, ill put some spacers in them.

Rear chassis bottoms out at the same time as the shocks but front doesnt. I might try and modify the 2001 tower or use it as a template to make a slightly higher one. Is it really worth trying to get the chassis to bottom out?

The tyres are a little old and need glueing. I was thinking about maybe getting the narrower front tyres and narrowing the front avante wheels.

Also thinking about fitting alloy C parts now, before the originals break.

Seems like i am ending up building this into a reliable runner rather than a nice shelfer. 

Tamiya puts a Special front shock Tower to the front Hicaps, which makes the Chassis sit lower and give more downtravel in compression. You should try to get one of those. that´s why I made my FRP part with 2 holes for the CVA and 2 for the Hicaps. It´s also available as rerelease for the Avante 2011/black Special: 3405066 is the no., it´s also coming with the rere front damper kit Tamiya 84300.

A Vanquish Needs to run, it´s such a nice Buggy. That´s why I went for 1 shelfer and one runner in the end. I narrowed Rere Avante front wheels for my 89 Avante, the look is really cool. Maybe original wheels are too precious to do this, depends on your likings.

I bought the alloy c parts for the front , too. Rears are not so important, if you have Fresh plastic parts from a rere tree, they also can take a lot of punishment.

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9 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Tamiya puts a Special front shock Tower to the front Hicaps, which makes the Chassis sit lower and give more downtravel in compression. You should try to get one of those. that´s why I made my FRP part with 2 holes for the CVA and 2 for the Hicaps. It´s also available as rerelease for the Avante 2011/black Special: 3405066 is the no., it´s also coming with the rere front damper kit Tamiya 84300.

A Vanquish Needs to run, it´s such a nice Buggy. That´s why I went for 1 shelfer and one runner in the end. I narrowed Rere Avante front wheels for my 89 Avante, the look is really cool. Maybe original wheels are too precious to do this, depends on your likings.

I bought the alloy c parts for the front , too. Rears are not so important, if you have Fresh plastic parts from a rere tree, they also can take a lot of punishment.

Ill look at the tower. The manual shows hi caps fitted to the original tower, but its not ideal.

The wheels are original, and very good, but not 100% mint. Are they any different to rere avante wheels?

My C parts are vintage, but i have just ordered some alloy ones, front and rear. I think ill try and make this bomb proof (till the tub snaps!)

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3 minutes ago, graemevw said:

Ill look at the tower. The manual shows hi caps fitted to the original tower, but its not ideal.

The wheels are original, and very good, but not 100% mint. Are they any different to rere avante wheels?

My C parts are vintage, but i have just ordered some alloy ones, front and rear. I think ill try and make this bomb proof (till the tub snaps!)

Don´t know the differences between the wheels, but for sure there will be some small ones to not ruin the vintage Prices. Functionally there are no differences. Don´t remember the Manual, but the new shock Tower was Always for free included in the kit for the small hicaps. Still have my plate from 1989, and got a new one with my set of rere front Hicaps last year. Seidel sells the complete fronts for 30€, that´s a steal deal, considering the plate costs 10€ as single part...

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This is the front shock tower you want, as per @ruebiracer  Not sure how it would work with a Vanquish body though, you might have to trim a little bit of nose.

IMG_2018_zps0r5azgr8.jpg

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3 hours ago, Thommo said:

 

This is the front shock tower you want, as per @ruebiracer  Not sure how it would work with a Vanquish body though, you might have to trim a little bit of nose.

IMG_2018_zps0r5azgr8.jpg

Yes Thommo, should have mentioned the Body Problem. It was recommended to cut the Vanquish body taller in front back in the day, but somehow it´s a sacrifice and I´ve never done it. I unscrew one side of the tower and lift it on my Avante 89, in case I need access to the chassis. On my Vanquish runner, I used it as atemplate for an homemade 2001 style tower with the Vanquish holes and the Hicap holes. So no need to take the body off:

IMG-20180414-WA0003.jpeg

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No way im cutting the body. I think ill end up making one in the same vanquish style but higher. 

 

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I like the direction this is going! This Vanquish looks just like the way Tamiya SHOULD rere it.

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Took me ages to learn how to use the program, but front shock tower for hicaps on a vanquish is drawn. Just need to add some dimensions and send it off, see if its acceptable.

Then ill draw the other 5 pieces up.

KPQsnip.jpg

You might have to zoom to see it!

Question now is, 2, 2.5mm or 3mm? I was thinking 3.

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Rear tower drawn. Pretty much a copy of stock. Will be attached to a carbon G11 with avante style alloy brackets.

gnS9tKl.jpg

Some of the pieces will get alloy spacers to replace any bosses that were needed on the plastic parts.

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3 hours ago, graemevw said:

Took me ages to learn how to use the program, but front shock tower for hicaps on a vanquish is drawn. Just need to add some dimensions and send it off, see if its acceptable.

Then ill draw the other 5 pieces up.

KPQsnip.jpg

You might have to zoom to see it!

Question now is, 2, 2.5mm or 3mm? I was thinking 3.

Definitely 3, if not thicker. Most race buggies use 4 these days. I have both on my custom towers on my Thunder Dragon and haven't had any trouble with 3. 

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6 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Definitely 3, if not thicker. Most race buggies use 4 these days. I have both on my custom towers on my Thunder Dragon and haven't had any trouble with 3. 

There is very little of the front one sticking out so 3 will probably be fine. The rear may be better in 4mm though so might just do both towers in 4. The other parts all need to be 2mm.

Im getting into this cad stuff. I know what im doing is basic but i keep finding ways to make it quicker and simpler to do. Maybe once ive sussed this ill try 3d!

Unfortunately im going out tonight and have a kitchen to fit for a family member next week so this might slow down :(

i really want to just get on with it! On a roll now.  

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You will speed up massively with a bit of practice. You start to think in the right way, solve the problems of laying out parts. I use intersecting arcs to place holes a lot. It's a very good way of getting accurate 2d layouts. 

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I placed holes by typing the distances in. I placed most things like that, i soon learnt its quicker and easier to just draw any bit of line and then set its length and placement by typing in the numbers.

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