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graemevw

Lunchbox diff and motor

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Drove my modded lunchbox today for the first time. It has fishing line mod, cva's, bearings, tyre foams and crp fx10 conversion.

Its great fun! Handles quite well but still bouncy.

Thing is, as it drives quite well, it feels too slow. Any thoughts on a suitable motor? I have a 17x2 i could take out of my terra scorcher. I have a technigold i could put in it but i dont want to ruin that motor as its very nice. Not sure how fast i want it, its only a garden basher, but the throttle is just nailed permenantly and id like to be forced into at least trying to control it ūüėÄ

The other thing is the diff is waaay too loose. It looses traction on one wheel way to easy. Any ways to tighten these up? I can't remember if i put AW grease in it or not, probably not i think. 

Its obviously lacking grip too, but not sure more motor and more grip would be good! Its run on grass mainly.

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[1]  I like Sport Tuned.  

From what I heard, torque tuned doesn't do much.  Sport Tuned is noticeable.  Besides, Sport Tuned is about the limit of TBLE-02S, if that's the ESC you ahve.  If you want slightly more speed than Sport Tuned, you can get a 21t motor and dial up the timing a bit.  There are dozens of sellers on ebay.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Professinal-GoolRC-540-21T-4-Poles-Brushed-Motor-For-1-10-1-12-4WD-RC-Car-US/252372108538?epid=15003882146&hash=item3ac28cc4fa:g:JZMAAOSwlHRXIszE

Note: 21t won't work with TBLE02S, but it will work with Quicrun 1060.  

Timing can be adjusted by loosening the end bell and rotating a bit.  Don't over tighten the bolts when you are done.  

 

[2]  On diffs, I use sticky grease. 

3Racing grease is a whole lot stickier than AW grease.  I would use very small amount.  You would want the diff to be sticky, not other gears.  

hT2wVwS.jpg

 

[3]  Foams tend to make tires bouncy like over-inflated tires on real 1:1 cars.  At least on DF01, DF02, Bigwig, I found that foams make them bouncier also. (I got softer tires with foams inside)  I take them out unless the tires alone are not supporting the weight.  I do the same for on-road cars.  M06 has the motor behind the rear tires, so I installed the foams.  But front tires get almost no weight on them. So no sponges for them. Front tires became less bouncy and more grippy.   

Tamiya makes tires rigid already so they won't go flat for months (but not years).  Foams help with keeping the tires round for years in static display situation. But often they tend to make the tires bouncier when running.  I just prop up every car off the ground.  

 

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Ill try that grease.

I can move a 1060 esc into this if needed, but might try a sport tuned. If its not quick enough ill put it in my grasshopper.

I quite like the bouncyness with the foams but will try without too. The shocks have removed the stock suspension bounce so a bit added back from the foams helps keep it 'lunchbox'.

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I used a Tamiya Super Stock BZ 21t motor in my Black Lunchie with a TBLE-02s and it ran just fine. It was quite quick, and I had a hard time keeping the front wheels on the ground. Not to mention I had to glue the rear tires to the wheels since they were slipping way too much. I can't imagine wanting something fast than a Super Stock motor.

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4 minutes ago, Hobbimaster said:

I used a Tamiya Super Stock BZ 21t motor in my Black Lunchie with a TBLE-02s and it ran just fine. It was quite quick, and I had a hard time keeping the front wheels on the ground. Not to mention I had to glue the rear tires to the wheels since they were slipping way too much. I can't imagine wanting something fast than a Super Stock motor.

Sounds exactly what i need.

21t you say, maybe the technigold after all. Bit of a waste though as its mint!

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The hop up tires for the wheelie cars are the soft compound  spiked chevrons, part number 54603 if that helps.

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20 hours ago, graemevw said:

Sounds exactly what i need.

21t you say, maybe the technigold after all. Bit of a waste though as its mint!

The Technigold would be a good choice, but even though it is 21t and so is a Super Stock, they are not the same. The Technigold is rated at 19,000 rpm and a Super Stock is 26,500 rpm. The magnets in the modern motors are much more stronger. That being said, its up to you if you want to run the Technigold. I just put my NIB Technigold in my Boomerang to liven it up a bit, and it did not disappoint. It runs very cool with a bit more power, close to today's GT tuned motors.

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I run an Absima Thrust B-Spec 17T on my LB with a Hobbywing 860 ESC. Perfect for that rig in my humble opinion, especially when running a 7.6v LIHV stick. I had a brushless setup in it before that, but it was simply too much - and that's usually not something I say. It's not a heavily modified rig, but I do have CVA shocks on it. What I did with my diff was to stuff a bunch of Team Associated 1000000 cSt diff fluid in there, lots of it. Call it a fluid, but it's like a very sticky grease. It stays on and gives the diff a nice limited slip feel. Part number for the diff fluid is AE5465. As said, it's nothing like an oil, more like a silicone grease. And if it's too thick, you can always step it down.

 

What is involved with the CRP FX10 arms and what's the benefit of this mod? and what is the fishing line mod? Also, which foams do you use in the wheels?

 

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Crp front arms require a bit of ingenuity to fit. Need to make some brackets etc, but you get double arm suspension in the front so no more camber changes. It also widens the front a bit, but i run a little negative camber on the front which removes that visually. 

The fishing line mod stops gearbox rotation, like the 3rd shock mod but easier and better.

The tyre foams came out of a chinese hbx truck. There not the perfect size but they seem to do the job.

 

17t!, on a normal pinion? 

 

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7 hours ago, graemevw said:

Crp front arms require a bit of ingenuity to fit. Need to make some brackets etc, but you get double arm suspension in the front so no more camber changes. It also widens the front a bit, but i run a little negative camber on the front which removes that visually. 

The fishing line mod stops gearbox rotation, like the 3rd shock mod but easier and better.

The tyre foams came out of a chinese hbx truck. There not the perfect size but they seem to do the job.

 

17t!, on a normal pinion? 

 

Thanks. Would be cool to see some pics on how you made that front end setup. That's the only thing that really annoys me about the LB. Where do you attach the fishing line?

 

Yes, 17 on the stock pinion. Runs great. Gets a bit warm on occasion, but nothing special that could not be expected for a performance oriented setup. I made sure to use a quality solder with silver for the motor leads as well as using better connectors between ESC leads and motor leads. I have a ton of 4mm bullets, so just used those rather than the crappy stock Tamiya motor connectors. A good connection always helps on longevity and keeps heat down.

My thought is that at the price of 15 euro, I consider the motor a wear item, and I will probably not even consider changing brushes in it. So far I have gotten many hours of joy from it over the past year and it shows no signs of stopping, but should it fry someday, well it's not the end of the world. The ESC is running cool as a polar bear, so no worries there. I actually ran thiese electronics in my Neo Fighter before with a 19 tooth pinion, so it's been in use before it got in the LB as well. All in all I feel confident recommending it.

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19 hours ago, Prescient said:

3s lipo on the silvercan or sportstuned motors in these is all you need.

I would, but im trying not to have different batteries for different cars though.

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Just an update, i put the technigold in the lunchbox and drove it on track for 20 mins or so and it works well. Could cope with being a bit quicker but i havent played with timing yet. The tble02 was fine with it with a 2s lipo and the motor barely got warm despite being flat out the whole time. I might play with timing and gearing or i might just try a 13.5 brushless in it. It can definitely cope with more speed. Quite fun to watch it fly down the back straight and into the sweeping right hander. 

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