WillyChang 1814 Posted April 19, 2019 18 minutes ago, OCD said: Surprising tbh... weren't LRP made in Germany back then? Figured they'd be all belts and braces I'd blame the entire culture of "overclocking" that was so popular at the time. Treating components like wear items probably made sense to the racing set As a kid in the early 90's I managed to save enough money to buy a Novak and distinctly remember being relieved that the actual quality was proportional to the price tag. I still eventually burned it up anyhow. Novak really made some nice stuff though. Sad that they are gone Racing "on a budget" back in the 1990s meant going chasing after all the old superseded gear used by the fast guys at the club. I never got to buy any LRPs as there weren't any left working by season end whereas Novaks were still going strong. There were also many other ESCs from smaller local SEAsian companies but I avoided anything that wasn't advertised in RCCA. Novak Cyclone was my main target, over the years scored a whole range of wrecks. Most I could fixup back to proper operation; the ones that didn't good ole Charlie Suangka @ HQ took good care of me. Back then it was still worthwhile to pay airmail postage & changeover fee vs buying the latest $400 ESC. They made great stuff, sad they didn't get glory from pioneering the brushless era. Was an early adopter for SS5800 and that thing was gobsmackingly powerful. 18 minutes ago, OCD said: Class T is just class D but configured to allow real-time modulation. They are integrated because 1) cheaper, and 2) signal processing fixes all of the crosstalk/latency/distortion, which enables the engineers to just cram everything together and let the processor sort it out. Tubes avoid all of this by being purely analogue. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Just get tube warmers and you're good to go meh they're all stashed away in attics lived thru the 1990s wild chase for NOS Soviet era russki tubes, then the Chinese came in and repopped them all with varying levels of success/quality... haven't got the patience anymore. recently a Topping TP30 landed on my workbench. Haven't quite decided what it does it's got a USB hole do I guess it's also an outboard DAC, with a class T poweramp to run some speakers. But it's tiny package looks like a headphones amp. Plus I'll need a good source to input from... Hmm... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OCD 514 Posted April 19, 2019 1 hour ago, WillyChang said: They made great stuff, sad they didn't get glory from pioneering the brushless era. Was an early adopter for SS5800 and that thing was gobsmackingly powerful. I was an early adopter as well; had been following the development for years and bought the 5800 as soon as it came out. Chucked it into my retired TRF415 to see what it could do and I think my eyes might have watered a little after that first trigger-pull... I just couldn't believe how smooth and powerful brushless really was compared to everything else I had ever run. That setup was truly before its time. 1 hour ago, WillyChang said: meh they're all stashed away in attics lived thru the 1990s wild chase for NOS Soviet era russki tubes, then the Chinese came in and repopped them all with varying levels of success/quality. Sold all of my Mac stuff in the early 2000's. Solid state is better for me since I really already have another time-consuming hobby. 1 hour ago, WillyChang said: recently a Topping TP30 landed on my workbench. Haven't quite decided what it does it's got a USB hole do I guess it's also an outboard DAC, with a class T poweramp to run some speakers. But it's tiny package looks like a headphones amp. Plus I'll need a good source to input from... Hmm... I just looked this up and it appears to be an integrated amplifier with 15 watts per channel, and the option to run it from an external DAC. Also has a headphones output that uses the same pre, so it's listen to one or the other but not both at the same time. https://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP30-Digital-Amplifier-USB-DAC/dp/B005D7SKWK I wouldn't be too worried about the source if it's coming in on a USB and back out through an integrated amp. You'd probably be unable to discern what difference it made if any. I do like that it has an external power supply, which gives you the opportunity to run it from nice, clean 12V battery juice rather than the dirty AC mains Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DK308 219 Posted April 19, 2019 On 4/17/2019 at 12:30 PM, Frh076 said: I don't want to use 6s. I want to use 3s, perhaps 4s but unlikely, without it being warm. By hot I mean that the plastic on top of the esc is melted. If this is the case, it sounds like you also need a better ESC. If you want to set it up for 3S and run it hard like an 1:8 scale, I'd do the following. Hobbywing EzRun Max 8 or Quicrun 8BL150 esc. TP Power 4030 6D motor. You can also step it down a notch, and go with the following. TP Power 3630 6D Hobbywing EzRun Max10 120 SCT esc Don't let the small size of the TP 3630 motor fool you. It's almost as powerful as a Leopard 4074 motor. If your ESC has gotten hot enough to melt the plastic, you will not change anything by just installing a larger motor with lower KV. It will still draw the amps as the motor is more powerful, which in turn means that the ESC gets too hot. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frh076 2 Posted April 20, 2019 3 hours ago, DK308 said: If this is the case, it sounds like you also need a better ESC. If you want to set it up for 3S and run it hard like an 1:8 scale, I'd do the following. Hobbywing EzRun Max 8 or Quicrun 8BL150 esc. TP Power 4030 6D motor. You can also step it down a notch, and go with the following. TP Power 3630 6D Hobbywing EzRun Max10 120 SCT esc Don't let the small size of the TP 3630 motor fool you. It's almost as powerful as a Leopard 4074 motor. If your ESC has gotten hot enough to melt the plastic, you will not change anything by just installing a larger motor with lower KV. It will still draw the amps as the motor is more powerful, which in turn means that the ESC gets too hot. What about the 2400kv castle motor and the hobbywing or mamba esc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DK308 219 Posted April 20, 2019 11 hours ago, Frh076 said: What about the 2400kv castle motor and the hobbywing or mamba esc? Don't bother. I think Castle is the most overrated brand in RC electronics. At any rate, there's nothing to gain over the TP Power motor. Here's why. TP Power makes a much better motor of a higher quality - and that "little" 3630 is quite a bit more powerful than the Castle 1415 motor. As we say in the RC boat racing community. TP Power is the best kept secret in the RC world. Comparatively the TP and Castle motor are priced about the same. The prices on the TP site is in Euro and in Europe, so no additional VAT or fees. Stick with the Hobbywing ESC. I've yet to see a Hobbywing ESC go up in flames, but I've seen a few Castle ESC's do it. If you want to drop the KV I'd choose the TP Power 3640 6D. http://www.tppowereurope.com/Webwinkel-Product-49258687/TP3640.html When ordering a TP motor for this application, remember to add the flat spot on the shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
