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Posted

Now heres where I left off before the baby arrived.

I've been toying with the idea of using mini t shocks on SRB suspension with hard purple springs in GPM ones for a more scale look than the big fat 1:10 shocks we get today. But does anybody know the size of the mounting screw holes? I don't have any yet and in the pics they look smaller to me.

Cheers

Posted

Hey Scorch,

Jun (cardesigner), I believe, had some Mini T shocks installed on one of his SRBs. Try shooting him a message.

Jay

Posted

The MiniT shocks are very good, only missing a reservoir rubber cap.

But this can not made with such small shocks.

The holes are 2mm for mounting, but you can push the ball out and take the 3mm screws. So the should fit, I think also with the length it should fit better than all other shocks.

Posted
quote:Originally posted by tamartin

The holes are 2mm for mounting, but you can push the ball out and take the 3mm screws. So the should fit, I think also with the length it should fit better than all other shocks.


id="quote">id="quote">

Thats a relief [8D] although the upper mounts on the gpm alloys will need drilling out as I don't think they have ball joints.

YGM about SRB shocks you won on the bay [:I]

UPDATEid="red"> Aha maybe no drilling required on upper mounts

http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=240...Mini-T&pid=239#

Posted

I would take the original Losi shocks, for the original look.

The Losi shocks do have a 4mm hole in which a grommet fits and a 2,5mm screw.

The Losi shocks look like the real thing if fitted with a black spring. I would not like the color alloy on an SRB.

If you really wants some I may would sell my third set.

Posted
quote:Originally posted by Scorchio

Good point martin I see what you mean, but I like the idea of adjustable with a threaded collar due to the extra weight of the srb chassis and I'll be getting the plain silver ones. I'm hoping I could also double up on the rears. Origional look not a problem anyway as they are for this one.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=21352&id=911


id="quote">id="quote">

Removing colour anodizing can be quite easy. It may not work on all parts, but I removed the gold anodizing on Juggernaut steering linkage, dampers and the longitudinal links without problems. I filled a plastic vessel (whatever you do, not aluminum!) with sewage cleaner and dropped the parts in. Being a little anxious that the parts might get destroyed, I checked them in intervals of 10 seconds, but no problems occured. After about 2 minutes, the anodizing was gone, leaving a flat black residue that could easily be removed with soap and water. I would think the same method can be applied to remove colour anodizing on most aluminum parts. Oven cleaner should do the trick as well, but the weak oven cleaners available in Germany simply take too long.

Please be aware that the oven cleaner, sewage cleaner and the alu parts get VERY hot in the process and the cleaners should not be allowed to touch your skin or get in your mouth and eyes.

Also, after removing the anodizing, the parts will be bare unprotected aluminum and the corrosion process will start immediately as with any bare aluminum parts, making the surface go dull over time, fast or slow depending on the humidity or exposure to water. Not been a problem so far with the Jug parts though.

For those who don't know, it should be pointed out that aluminum corrosion actually protects the surface from further corrosion once it has appeared, unlike corrosion on steel. Also, anodizing itself is a process of "forced" corrosion, originally developed to create a protective coating.

Pics here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/xforum/topic.asp...tripping,purple

  • 1 month later...
Posted

This is a bit deja-vu,I was thinking the same thing the other day.

The only thing is they are only 50mm & 60mm,50mm would be okay on the back but the 60mm are a bit short for the front.

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