Don79

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Thanks! 

One last thing, do you run those on lipos or regular Nimh 7,2? Guessing that stock things will break with Lipos.

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2S LiPo is 7.4V.  That is so close to the 7.2V NiMH that there is no problem with going to 2S LiPo and you won't break stock stuff with them.

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30 minutes ago, Don79 said:

Thanks! 

One last thing, do you run those on lipos or regular Nimh 7,2? Guessing that stock things will break with Lipos.

It depends, I run either depending on the situation. Its just energy either way, just different battery chemistry.

Lipo is about 15% faster or thereabouts in a stock buggy, you can definitely notice the difference. If you have a programmable ESC then you will get to a point where the NiMH just can't supply the energy to make it faster, but put in a lipo and the difference becomes massive.

Lipo also have a flatter discharge curve, so basically they're faster for longer.

So if you are slowing it down already then run NiMH as they are less hassle.

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If you choose to go with Lipo and use the stock esc, you need a low voltage alarm. Most aftermarket esc's have a low voltage cutoff, but the Tamiya esc's do not.

I personally prefer upgrading to a Hobbywing qucrun straight away as they have this feature.

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3 hours ago, Rb4276 said:

Tt02b ms comes with fiberglass not carbon shock towers. The rear should be fine but the front break, i had to upgrade to aluminum because at the time tamiya didnt sell the carbon fiber towers. 

I've been pretty rough on my TT02B MS and I have had zero issues with the fiber reinforced towers. I definitely think they are a lot better than the stock TT02B towers.

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Forgot I need a Servo as well, anything that is recommended as far as that goes?

Thanks again for all the help. As of now i'm leaning towards a Neo scorcher or a plasma edge 2. Well, that is unless someone says otherwise, I just like the looks of the ones I've seen. Especially with a bit larger tyres than stock ones.

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The chassis is quite light and undemanding in terms of servo spec, and the servo saver does a good job of protecting the gears, so pretty much any standard size servo will fit the bill.

I use a Savox digital metal geared servo in mine, but it is overkill. Something like the Alturn AAS700 will be fine. 

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Also, is there a reason the Neo fighter is Close to half the price of the other 2? It's 70  euro on tamico while the others are 120. Are they comparable as far as equipment and driving?

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8 minutes ago, Don79 said:

Also, is there a reason the Neo fighter is Close to half the price of the other 2? It's 70  euro on tamico while the others are 120. Are they comparable as far as equipment and driving?

The neo fighter is 2wd so half the driveshafts, half the gearboxes etc. Its also incredible value full stop. 

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They are pretty much same spec in terms of construction and quality. Driving will be different because 2wd is different to 4wd. I suspect the tt02 will be easier to just drive straight out of the box. As i mentioned above, you need to make a couple of modications (add weights to the front of the chassis, stiffer rear springs) to get the best out of the dt03 chassis, but they are great once set up. This is mine (with lots of hop ups, truck wheels like the aqroshot, schumacher truck tyres and a mad bull body cut to fit) 

20190322_155250

 

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How are those cheap alturn servos? The AAS700 is waterproof and better spec than the Futaba S3003. Ismthe quality as good as futaba or do they fail a bit? Thinking being waterproof it may be a good rudder servo in my yacht.

Also, back on topic, the Plasma Edge II is the best looking, get that one.

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I use AAS700 servos in many of my models, including my boats where they get wet regularly, and have yet to experience a single failure.

Also, beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say. :) I think that the Neo Scorcher is the best looking, and if you get one of the metallic special editions, you don't need to worry about cutting or painting the shell. All you need to do is add the decals. 

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Kind of dig this one and price seem fair compared to others. Though it seems like most other parts I've been recommended are availible at modelsport.co.uk so might get the rest from there. So unless someone says NOOO! I'm gonna go for it or I'll never be able to decide.

https://tamico.de/Tamiya-47366-Plasma-Edge-II-Black-Metallic-TT-02B-Bausatz

Servo, One of the recommended in the thread.

Steel pinion, Guess the pitch depends on motor.

Motor, Still pondering wether a sports tuned is enough or if we should go BL. That and the fact that I might not be able to put it together properly with my limited skills and soldering. Would be fun to try though.

Is it worth getting the hop up drive shaft or should I not bother or anything else that you would get right away? 3 kids att home so time is limited so I rather do the most useful upgrades while building.

 

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Tamico are a reliable supplier. No reason not to buy the kit from them. 

Might as well get the servo, motor and pinion from Modelsport, as well as the batteries, charger, transmitter and receiver if you need them. The electronics are the parts more likely to go wrong and need exchanging, and Modelsport customer service is good when it comes to returns.

The pinion pitch will be 0.6 Module, with the tooth count dependent on your motor choice.

If you want to go brushless and choose a Speed Passion motor, you need not worry about soldering. The terminals on the back of the motor can be easily removed and soldered to the ESC wires without risking damage to the motor itself, and they have little channels in them to hold the wire in place while you solder. If that still sounds like too much hassle, you can ask the folks at Modelsport to do the soldering for you for a small fee, or buy some adapters. 

The most important upgrade to include while building the model is a set of bearings. Rubber sealed ones last longer of the car is to be used off road. RCBearings.co.uk sell complete rubber sealed sets of good quality for not much cash. 

Since the shell comes pre finished you don't need to worry about paint or bodyshell trimming tools, so as long as you have a suitable JIS screwdriver and a means of cutting the parts from the sprues, you should be good to go!

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Awesome! I'll go for that then.

Just looked through my old box of hobbyking stuff and found 2 30a brushless escs. Is there any smaller car that I could use those on for practice if nothing else? I'm guessing 1/10 needs 60A and I don't suppose there's any 1/16 scale I could get while I'm at it? 

The old hobbyking one's were such a pain and broke non stop so I tossed them.

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10 minutes ago, Don79 said:

Awesome! I'll go for that then.

Just looked through my old box of hobbyking stuff and found 2 30a brushless escs. Is there any smaller car that I could use those on for practice if nothing else? I'm guessing 1/10 needs 60A and I don't suppose there's any 1/16 scale I could get while I'm at it? 

The old hobbyking one's were such a pain and broke non stop so I tossed them.

Tamico are a great supplier but for (maybe) slightly less, how about time tunnel models up in Scotland. They do it with or without the ESC in case you go LiPo 

https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=0&osCsid=1mui26k4kak10gb7je0jphs9r0&keywords=plasma

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Hmm. Maybe a Star Unit? Or perhaps one of the 380-powered models such as a Grasshopper?

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Finalizing My order now, the pinion though, is it mod 06? Can only seem to find 08 when i look but pretty sure i read 06 on here somewhere.

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That is correct. 0.6 module for the TT-02B and other chassis in the TT range (as well as most other Tamiyas for that matter), 0.8 module for the DT-03 and other buggies in the DT range, as well as some older designs such as the Grasshopper and Hornet.

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8 hours ago, Don79 said:

So unless someone says NOOO! I'm gonna go for it or I'll never be able to decide.

NOOOO!!!  Go with DF02!  It's just like TT02B, but with metal diff gears!  

lol...

No, I'm just kidding.  While DF02 does have metal gears, it's almost identical to TT02B.  

The only noticeable difference is that DF02 comes with a beefier backbone.  But I haven't heard complaints about TT02B chassis being weak.  If they work equally well, then you won't miss it.  

It's a hobby, not a 30 year mortgage.  You can get whatever you like. You enjoy it. Then you'll see aspects of other cars you may like, and you try that.  (sooner or later you'll end up with dozens. It's not a curse as your wife might want to have you believe. It's a blessing! Compared to smoking, drinking, gambling, chasing after ladies, this is one of the healthiest hobby there is. You can tell that I have a lot of experience in defending the hobby...There are healthier and cheaper hobbies like hiking, bird watching, reading, etc, but let's not mention those.) 

2ZTIroX.jpg

 

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The DF-02 has the backbone as well as the metal diff gears, metal dogbones, etc, but it also has a Achilles' heel - the lower front suspension arm mounts are not as strong as the suspension arms themselves, so in a crash, there is a good chance that the arm will remain intact and rip the mount out of the chassis, requiring a full strip-down to fit a new tub.

The TT-02B on the other hand, while also having strong arms, has a system whereby the front arm mounts are separate from the chassis, so if one is damaged in a crash, you don't need to take the whole car apart, just fit a new arm mount. And it doesn't need a backbone due to having a stiffer tub. It does however have plastic diff gears.

It is said that the best option is a hybrid of the two - a DF-02 geartrain in a TT-02B chassis. And a good starting point for such a vehicle is a TT-02B kit such as the one you are considering buying. So it sounds like you are on the right track!

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I feel like this is a good start, if it werent for the fact that I'd need another radio I might have bought 2 different ones on impulse! Luckily I only have one spare FS GT3B and I just realized i need a new receiver for that one as well. But chances are that if I pull this off I'm very likely to end up buying another. :rolleyes:

Currently waiting om modelsport to see if they have a steel pinion and get everything thats missing from there.

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Hi

I am relatively new to RC too built a Lunchbox as my first time at Xmas, just recently built a basher. Went with Juggular’s option because of the metal gears etc, admittedly I have done some homemade mods. 

1C8847C7-08EC-4D87-9446-501B4C93AEB5.jpeg

5431C14C-222B-4AC2-A725-ED748165ADF3.jpeg

F2C93AC2-4DE8-4C00-A631-B0973AC8BAE1.jpeg

  • Haha 1

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