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Grumpy pants

Wild Willy 2 Tips Please.

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I bought a used WW2 a few months ago and I’m now starting to reassemble it. 

The plan is too keep it long term and start with mild mods. 

We ran an XB WW2 for many years with 1 small breakage so I know I don’t need to go bonkers, but what are the best upgrades to make initially?

Sports tuned

Bearing

20T pinion

Lower the body

Shocks CVA’s

Wheelie bar upgrade

Any how all suggestions welcome!

Thank you

Simon 

 

 

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You're right when you say there's no need to go nuts, they're good solid bashers as standard.

The torque tuned will give you a little more speed than silver can, the sports tuned is a small step up from the torque tuned. Batteries make more difference, lipos will give you more of a performance boost than either motor on nimh. It depends what you want, or rather how much faster than stock do you need it to be?

The 20T gives you a little more speed but it's not a huge difference. A steel pinion is definitely recommended (.06 mod). If you go the whole hog - lipo, sports tuned, 20T pinion - you're going to end up with something significantly faster than stock.

Lowering the body - cut off the L-shaped wedge that protrudes from the underside of the body next to the hole in the floor and you can lower the body so it's basically sitting on the top of the chassis.

CVA's or any decent oil shocks will help reduce the bounciness (and let the suspension actually work!).

There are several alloy wheelie bars available. The 'show off' option is the Yeah Racing adjustable aluminium one with its own oil shocks :)

http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-shock-absorb-wheelie-gear-damper-tamiya-wr02-p-62832.html?cPath=595_744_1656

Another bit that wasn't on your list. I've broken a couple of the kit steering servo savers. You might have better luck (or drive better than me!) but it might be worth having a spare or fitting a high torque servo saver (haven't broken one of those - yet!). The servo posts can take a bit of a battering too, it's a good excuse to trade up for the nice blue alloy ones...

Hope this helps.

Rob 

 

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If you want to lower it down you can cut off the 'L' piece underneath as mentioned above, there are a few other mods you can do depending on how involved you want to get;

Lowered Willy mods

Road Race Willy (WIP)

Overall I love the WR02 chassis as its so versatile & pretty much bombproof - As Rob has said, they don't take much to improve & hot motors beyond a sport or torque tuned is probably a no-no unless you want to keep it stood on its back end going in a straight line! If you want to minimize the wheelies you can always flip over the wheelie bar, but you'll need a couple of spacers & longer screws to refit it simply due to a molded notch in its design which means it sits out slightly when flipped. CVA minis (or similar) can help to lower the chassis further. 

One thing id definitely recommend is a foam cover for the motor to stop any dirt ingress, its in a pretty exposed position so a cover should help with longevity/maintenance.

48068147392_8fb472bf3d_b.jpg

 

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One thing that makes a HUGE difference is a change of wheels/tires. I really think Tamiya spec'd the wrong wheels and tires when they developed this thing. I swapped mine to Stadium Blitzer wheels (direct bolt-on) with some Duratrax stadium truck tires, and it's a night-and-day difference in how it drives. Slightly lighter weight makes it accelerate quicker (less rotating mass), less sidewall makes it more stable in turns (fewer rollovers), and as an added bonus, the front tires don't hit the frame at full lock on a hard bump like the stock tires do. I also like the look better: it's a little less monster-truck and a little closer to the proportions of a Wild Willy 1, especially with the body lowered as described above.

Oh, and it still pulls wheelies just fine, thank you.

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You can't feed us a sales pitch and not post a pic @markbt73 ! 😄

I've just always wanted a WR02 (as I have CW01, GF01, G601, etc), so am loitering in this thread 😁

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Possibly be a little careful not to over tyre? My Comical Hornet is incredibly easy to grip roll (to the point of frustration) on tarmac. Its fun on grass and never rolls, but on the street you hace to slow right down before turning in not to tip it over. I do wonder whether its the very rounded profile fronts doung odd things to the steering geometry as they load up. Or maybe i need to try my blitzer wheels. 

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1 hour ago, berman said:

You can't feed us a sales pitch and not post a pic @markbt73 ! 😄

I've just always wanted a WR02 (as I have CW01, GF01, G601, etc), so am loitering in this thread 😁

I'm at work, I'll post a pic when I get home. Sorry for the tease. ;)

You should definitely get a Wild Willy 2. It's one of the all-time Tamiya greats. I'm on my third one. Wore the first one completely out (1/4" of slop in the suspension arms!), foolishly sold the second. This one's not going anywhere.

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Awesome info guys.

I’m just at the rear suspension reassembly and I have a pair of CVA’s in my spares box so they can go on.

I’ll remove the tabs from the chassis rails next and track down some shocks for the front.

I’ve got a new wheelie bar and alloy servo horn sitting in my spares that were destined for the LB that I can use for now to keep this project moving. 

I’ll get some pictures up and running when I next get a chance to tinker. 

20T pinion and Sports tuned on NiMH will probably be the way forward on this one.

Yes will be cutting the L off the underside of the body as well.

I really like the Blitzer wheel combo too, some years ago on TC there was a really cool thread on a go faster WW2 in OZ. 

Berman they are the most fun and in my modest Tamiya opinion a must have 😉.

Working today, kids over tonight, back soon and thank you for all the tips everyone. 

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OK, as promised: Wild Willy 2 with Blitzer wheels (technically yellow Staium Thunder) and Duratrax mini-pin tires...

20190615_073456

 

20190615_073443

(Oddly, in the first photo, the front tires look bigger than the rears. All four are identical.)

 

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So I’ve trimmed the tabs off the chassis and taken the L off the body this morning.

Found the 2 CVA shocks, Sports Tuned motor, 20T steel pinion, ESC and a new servo from my spares.

Ordered Hi Torque servo horn, the other pair of CVA’s and some alloy servo posts. 

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On 6/14/2019 at 12:02 PM, IBIFTKH said:

You're right when you say there's no need to go nuts, they're good solid bashers as standard.

The torque tuned will give you a little more speed than silver can, the sports tuned is a small step up from the torque tuned. Batteries make more difference, lipos will give you more of a performance boost than either motor on nimh. It depends what you want, or rather how much faster than stock do you need it to be?

The 20T gives you a little more speed but it's not a huge difference. A steel pinion is definitely recommended (.06 mod). If you go the whole hog - lipo, sports tuned, 20T pinion - you're going to end up with something significantly faster than stock.

Lowering the body - cut off the L-shaped wedge that protrudes from the underside of the body next to the hole in the floor and you can lower the body so it's basically sitting on the top of the chassis.

CVA's or any decent oil shocks will help reduce the bounciness (and let the suspension actually work!).

There are several alloy wheelie bars available. The 'show off' option is the Yeah Racing adjustable aluminium one with its own oil shocks :)

http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-shock-absorb-wheelie-gear-damper-tamiya-wr02-p-62832.html?cPath=595_744_1656

Another bit that wasn't on your list. I've broken a couple of the kit steering servo savers. You might have better luck (or drive better than me!) but it might be worth having a spare or fitting a high torque servo saver (haven't broken one of those - yet!). The servo posts can take a bit of a battering too, it's a good excuse to trade up for the nice blue alloy ones...

Hope this helps.

Rob 

 

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the tips, I’m going for sensible speed upgrades, the last WW2 we had was box standard on Nimh and we were quite happy but a bit more pep this time around for ‘Dad’ is the plan 😊. So 20T pinion and a sports tuned motor will be plenty for me. 

Good tips on the servo posts and servo saved. Both have been ordered and will be upgraded with Tamiya hop ups.

Bought a wheelie bar too, but just a modest upgrade from stock.

CVA’s will be added and the body will be lowered, 

So it’s rapidly changing and should still be fun to drive. 

All the best 

Simon

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On 6/14/2019 at 1:09 PM, max69vk said:

If you want to lower it down you can cut off the 'L' piece underneath as mentioned above, there are a few other mods you can do depending on how involved you want to get;

Lowered Willy mods

Road Race Willy (WIP)

Overall I love the WR02 chassis as its so versatile & pretty much bombproof - As Rob has said, they don't take much to improve & hot motors beyond a sport or torque tuned is probably a no-no unless you want to keep it stood on its back end going in a straight line! If you want to minimize the wheelies you can always flip over the wheelie bar, but you'll need a couple of spacers & longer screws to refit it simply due to a molded notch in its design which means it sits out slightly when flipped. CVA minis (or similar) can help to lower the chassis further. 

One thing id definitely recommend is a foam cover for the motor to stop any dirt ingress, its in a pretty exposed position so a cover should help with longevity/maintenance.

48068147392_8fb472bf3d_b.jpg

 

Hi Max,

L piece now removed and the tabs on the chassis rail, just needs a quick tidy up with the dremel. 

Both good threads thanks for the links I’ll continue to pick tips off them. 

Yep CVA’s will be fitted and I’ve treated this one to a new wheelie bar, having less models means there’s a little more pocket money to spend on the keepers. 

Trying out the melting sprues in nail polish remover this week, I fancy trying to repair the gaping hole in Sand Scorcher bonnet if I can. 

All the best

Simon

 

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On 6/14/2019 at 7:49 PM, markbt73 said:

One thing that makes a HUGE difference is a change of wheels/tires. I really think Tamiya spec'd the wrong wheels and tires when they developed this thing. I swapped mine to Stadium Blitzer wheels (direct bolt-on) with some Duratrax stadium truck tires, and it's a night-and-day difference in how it drives. Slightly lighter weight makes it accelerate quicker (less rotating mass), less sidewall makes it more stable in turns (fewer rollovers), and as an added bonus, the front tires don't hit the frame at full lock on a hard bump like the stock tires do. I also like the look better: it's a little less monster-truck and a little closer to the proportions of a Wild Willy 1, especially with the body lowered as described above.

Oh, and it still pulls wheelies just fine, thank you.

Great choice of wheels and tyres.

I take it you have Blitzer rear wheels all round? 

I can’t tell if the Aquashot is 4 Blitzer front wheels or 4 back wheels? 

I like this look it makes me think of the original WW.  

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Rear end back together CVA’s and bearing fitted, just waiting on the new wheelie bar to arrive.

Next is centring the Servo and waiting for the alloy Servo posts to turn up as well.

I get a real kick out of using things I already have, even the small stuff, like grease or grommets 😊

 

 

494776B1-747C-4F05-83C8-99AC3C33FCFE.jpeg

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The wheelie bar arrived today from HK, so that’s been fitted now.

Waiting on the servo posts so that I can button up the two chassis halves now 😊

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The front shocks have arrived now and the new pinion.

2 small deliveries outstanding and then the chassis can go back together.  

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Still waiting on parts from HK, that’ll teach me for being a cheap skate 😉

Anyway started to clean the tyres last night and gently remove the paint off the roll bars. 

Might get a bit more done tonight if I’m not back to late from work. 

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Gave the tyres one last scrub tonight and got stuck into removing the paint on the roll bar again.

Patience and elbow grease is starting to pay dividends. 

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My Hop ups arrived today from Japan, but as the seller sent them together I got stiffed for Customs and handling charges which really stings.

Lesson learnt and at least I can now button up the chassis halves and move this along again sometime soon.

So alloy Servo post and Hi Torque Servo Saver can be off the list 😊

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Got the chassis 95% completed last night, just need to fit the bumper, motor and wheels now.

I’m going to use my chrome midnight pumpkin wheels as I want the WW wheels on our lunchbox. 

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3 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Got the chassis 95% completed last night, just need to fit the bumper, motor and wheels now.

I’m going to use my chrome midnight pumpkin wheels as I want the WW wheels on our lunchbox. 

WW2 & the Pumpkin use different fitment on the rear wheels, unless you’ve converted the MP to hex?

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1 minute ago, max69vk said:

WW2 & the Pumpkin use different fitment on the rear wheels, unless you’ve converted the MP to hex?

I was hoping to swap the fittings from the WW to the LB and vice verser. 

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If I remember correctly, the offset on the front wheels is very different too. You may be ok fitting the WW2 wheels on the Pumpkin, I think you'll end up with a wider front track and you may need a shallower hex on the rears.

Fitting the MP wheels on the WW - you may be able to switch fittings on the rear and get away with it, may need some fiddling. But the fronts will foul the suspension.

In your position I'd try the WW2 wheels on the MP, see if they fit, see if you like the result. If it works ok and you're happy, simplest option for the WW2 is a new set of wheels. The Tamiya wheels can be picked up fairly cheap or there's always the temptation of aftermarket options...

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