purpledragooon 3 Posted June 28, 2019 Hey people, I am new to the site but here is a little background. 20 years ago I was given a used clodbuster from a family friend who grew bored (how is that possible?). Just pulled out the old box of rc cars (cleaning garage). Should I restore this clodbuster or sell it. I guess real questions is how do I know what it's worth and I guess that will determine if I sell (tested it and it ran fine). 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted June 28, 2019 Hey again. Here are some pictures. I am not trying to make a quick buck, I loved this guy but sometimes life moves on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted June 28, 2019 That depends... how much does it mean to you? It's an early Clod, with the Chevrolet logos on the body, which were only made for a couple of years. But even those aren't super-rare; I found one almost identical to this (except painted blue) at a garage sale for $10 a few years ago. I'm sure you could find someone interested in it for more than that (heck, I'd be interested if I weren't in a complete spending freeze). How much depends on the person and the day. but don't expect a fortune out of it. If it were me, sitting here regretting selling the two dirt-cheap Clods I have found in the past (before the $10 one I bought another no-badge one for $50), I'd keep it, and run it exactly as it is, patina and all. But if you've really lost interest in it, then maybe it's time to find it a new home... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted June 28, 2019 Alright last question (that is a lie, I'll be asking alot) should I upgrade this truck with new motors and controls? I am new to restoring something like this. How can I repair the body without destroying the classic feel. I mean I'll have to remove the stickers and sand it but is there stickers with the Chevy sticker? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2319 Posted June 28, 2019 Looks great as is . There is a lot of work to restore it , so how far do you go , all out or nothing at all , there doesn't seem to be a middle ground with restorations as they take hold , then it's one more part after another and soon you've spent more than you could have sold the truck for in 'as is' condition . vintage original parts are hard to find especially the decals . I would leave as is , give it a dust over and use it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted June 28, 2019 Sounds good to me, I still might replace a few parts ( I just can't not) or maybe print some parts for it. Any one have a recommendation for battery and charger for it. I used a small one to test it but if I am going to have fun I want to last for a while (who doesnt) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juggular 4964 Posted June 28, 2019 SkyRC iMax B6 charger has become the standard. Getting one with a power supply with the right voltage for your location would be convenient. (I got one without power supply, but I'm using a laptop computer power supply, which limits to 5 amp charge) iMax B6 can charge pretty much anything from lead-acid, NiCd, NiMH, LiPo and LiFe, Li-Ion, so on. LiPo batteries give you the most run time for given amount of money. But you want to keep it in a fireproof bag that usually costs about $3 - $5. There are so many batteries out there, it's really hard to recommend anything particular. I got this one, because it has two-dynamites-wrapped-together look of the old Tamiya packs. It goes into all the Tamiya I have. (I did solder XT60 plug, though) Now that I know more about LiPo, I can get a size that fits the application for half the price. But Venom was a good starting point. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QE3AVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NWarty 1325 Posted June 28, 2019 What else you got in that old box of rc cars? 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3662 Posted June 28, 2019 I got back into this hobby a few years ago when I dug my old Frog out of my parents garage... IMO, you have three choices. Two are great fun, and will put a dent in you in your wallet. The last will involve slowly backing out the door... 1. Restore the Truck. Dive into the rabbit hole and discover the wonders of upgrading and modifying your Vintage truck. There are lots of things you can do to a Clody, and the more you do, the better it will get. And the more it will cost... 2. Skip it and buy a new modern truck. Again, depending on what you buy, lots of upgrading and modifying, but without all the head-aches of dealing with a Vintage truck... 3. Or you can choose to walk away... Your wallet and your wife may thank you... But you won't have any fun ripping through your local walking trails with your wallet (no comments about your wife)... Terry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alwb68 125 Posted June 28, 2019 Why not just clean it up. Maybe strip the chassis down, clean everything, give it a rebuild and see how you feel. If you then sell it at least you’ll get top dollar. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
berman 5315 Posted June 28, 2019 Mine was in worse condition when i restored it! I have just about replaced the whole truck! If you want a reliable runner, I would say (can't believe I am suggesting this), full bearings, a minimum of 2 13t steel pinions, two alloy anti-rotational brackets, an esc, and maybe convert to 2.4ghz (the original radio will still be ok if you want to keep it). Or spend that on a new battery and charger. Up to you... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tamiya_1971 615 Posted June 28, 2019 Restore. I have sold three Clods at least and have regretted it every time until about two years later. I just snagged an old clod off eBay for 86 bucks. I’m having one of my kids go through it and put in bearings and an esc. Ordered a new body for it. (Saving the Chevy body for a winter restoration). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted June 28, 2019 Haha in the box I had 2 roughnecks and a hacksaw from RadioShack. I gave away another box to my nephew so he can start to love mechanical devices. Well I kinda started messing around with it today and now I have spent a good chunk of change on stuff for it. I have no idea how to remove the connection to the ball connectors without ruining the part. Any advice? I have to admit it's like a tick where I keep finding myself looking at forums for rebuilding it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hibernaculum 933 Posted June 29, 2019 Long, needle-nose pliers are the easiest way to pry ball connectors from ball joints. I would restore. But you all know what I will say... I'd pull the entire truck apart, right down to the last screw. Clean every part with a toothbrush and warm, soapy water. Then lay all the parts out on a mat - and check to see if anything is broken or too worn out. If anything is broken - simply go to eBay, and buy an authentic vintage replacement (either new or used). To keep the car 1987 spec. This includes MSC Reassemble, like it's 1987 all over again. You even have some great period radio gear! If not much is broken, the 4 steps above cost you next to nothing. And it will be super satisfying if you are sentimental about the car. After that... If the body is too tatty even after cleaning, consider saving for a NIB original body set. It will make the car seem mint brand new again. Alternatively, keep it as-is, but still as a shelfer - "my original Clod Buster" Alternatively, drive it lightly for fun. If you just want to bash something to death - buy a newer Tamiya - a Super Clod Buster or something else. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted June 29, 2019 I want to say thank you to everyone that responded. I have decided to restore/play with it, now I am taking it apart and learning every detail 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted June 29, 2019 That's the original first version of the Clod Buster, WOW! I'd say use it but for heaven's sake don't destroy it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garyrc01 9 Posted June 30, 2019 Good choice on restoring an early clod! Playing with it is fun, as I have one I owned since childhood. The upgrades mentioned by @berman above are indeed worthwhile, and that's what I did for my restoration (my second clod), except for esc and 2.4 ghz radio Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted July 1, 2019 Hey so does anyone have a link to the bearings and pinions? I am about half way through complete disassembly and no broken parts, missing nuts and 2 screws so if anyone has a link for tamiya hardware. I have proper size hardware but it felt wrong putting those on it. Last thing is what do you guys use to grease the gear box and shafts? I have not cleaned the gears because I want to grease them right after. Short list i need links to 1. Bearings 2. Pinions 3. hardware 4. Grease for gearbox Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hibernaculum 933 Posted July 1, 2019 If you want to keep it original, search eBay for "tamiya clod buster vintage" + the type of part you need. Not every item you need will be available immediately, sometimes it requires searching for days or weeks, and using saved searches. Vintage screw bag - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamiya-Clod-Buster-Screw-Bag-A-Original-Issue-X10083-Vintage-RC-Part/303124795347 For ball and plastic bearings, the same types were used across many different models. Vintage plastic bearings example - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Original-Tamiya-Plastic-Bearings-Set-5228/272575426983 Vintage ball bearings example - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/vintage-TAMIYA-1-10-AVANTE-50353-1680-ball-bearing-set-4pcs/264007648068 Refer to the manual to find out which screws are in which bags, along with other part numbers - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/manuals.asp?cm=379 Refer to the catalogues, this site, or Tamiyabase to find out which parts were suited to the Clod - https://tamiyabase.com/tamiya-models/58065-58065 Vintage Tamiya kits generally came with Tamiya silicon grease - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-RC-Tamiya-Car-Truck-1980s-GREASE-Tubes-2g-Lot-of-2-All-Tamiya-RC-Models/271253239846 This is what I'd do, but I'm an annoying vintage nerd and like every detail to be as per the original kit. (Having said that, none of the above examples are that expensive) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garyrc01 9 Posted July 1, 2019 Another route would be to use re-released parts if you tend to play with your restored Clod while keeping the cost down. A search on eBay will yield the items you are looking for. For example: 1. Bearings - https://www.ebay.com/itm/TAMIYA-58065-Clod-Buster-58321-Super-58423-Bearing-Kit-COMPLETE-24-Bearings/251712031093?hash=item3a9b34c975:m:m_9b06G6ClJ3uZiVBnYY65w I used their metal shielded ones and they are pretty decent. 2. Pinions - https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Robinson-1713-Pinion-Gear-Absolute-32P-13T-RRP-FREE-US-SHIP/333134750875?epid=7009479187&hash=item4d9060e49b:g:LFMAAOSwzCtc1lZ6 Steel pinions are preferred imo as they are more durable than the ones supplied with the kit. 13-tooth 32p pinions is the stock setup. 3. Hardware - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=tamiya+clod+screw&_sacat=0 4. As for grease, I use Tamiya's ceramic grease for the gears, and Tamiya's anti-wear grease for the differentials. 5. One thing I suggest replacing is the anti-rotation brackets on the front and gear gearbox as they tend to break on older Clods. I replaced mine with metal ones. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MB-Aluminum-Anti-Rotational-Brackets-Black-2PCS-for-Tamiya-Clodbuster/372397854813?hash=item56b4a4505d:g:1GsAAMXQkl9RdS-2 Hope this helps! Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purpledragooon 3 Posted July 3, 2019 Hey so all taken apart and cleaned. Every single screw. Now I found no broken parts but I did find I replaced one of the ball connectors with off brand and the top screw of one of the shocks with plastic and a screw to hold the piece in. Those 2 things and the rest looks great apart from the shell (have not cleaned that) waiting on my tamyia grease and that ball connector. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted July 15, 2019 Me being me, I'd throw in a hobbywing 860 esc a 3s lipo and run the thing until something broke, strip replace and run again!! 😁 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Problemchild 2149 Posted October 26, 2019 if you want to sell, please let me know JJ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
