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Juggular

CR01 worth the money?

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I agree with the comments I bought the rock socker when it first appeared and not the easiest of builds! It was one of those models you have to read the instructions first then read them again and unfortunately I to was not impressed by it which was a shame:unsure: because it looks very impressive sitting on the shelf! To date it has been the only tamiya I've sold shortly after I built it! Hopefully it's new own thought differently!

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On 7/2/2019 at 8:17 PM, 87lc2 said:

I do love the chassis kits that everyone is selling nowadays, saves from having lots of extra transmitters, electronics, wheel/tires, and bodies around that I would most likely not use anyway.  Just built one of the little MST CFX kits that I plan on using a Blackfoot shell on.  Nice to spend $180 for a decent chassis that I can make my own for under $200USD.

I would also agree that the CR01 is worth around $300 for a kit.  $500 here in the US is pretty crazy, definitely wouldnt spend that on the CR01.

That MST CFX chassis with that planetary gear set and near Tamiya quality plastic is a heck of deal and you can run a ton of Tamiya hard body's on it. I picked mine up on Asiatees for under $190 and came with a Hobbywing ESC 

I have 3 or 4  of them so far:) and usually never buy more than 2 of any chassis. Would love to see that Blackfoot body version 

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On 7/3/2019 at 12:26 AM, Juggular said:

Would you recommend a few?  There are so many out there, I feel like I noob who has never even seen the Grasshopper. 

I've been eyeing on MST CFX, but I just can't live without diffs... my CC01 squeals on the wooden floor because of locked diff.  That bothers me 10 times more than a neighbor kid riding a bicycle with an ultra-squeaky chain that lets everybody know where he is at all times... or maybe I should learn to live with no diff, if I'm ever going to crawl?    

 

 

The MST MTX-1 has diffs and is a direct swap into the MST CFX. I have them on my CFX chassis with Tamiya Bettle body and it's a blast. 

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On 7/8/2019 at 7:48 PM, MICHAELs TopForce17 said:

@Juggular

Rcmart got the mst cfx-w kit with portal axles for 299 and free shipping. 

Please note the CFW-W is a longer chassis and won't work with a lot of the Tamiya bodies. 

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17 minutes ago, magnumb said:

Please note the CFW-W is a longer chassis and won't work with a lot of the Tamiya bodies. 

Yes, CFX-W is too big for me (though it would be similar to CR01 and TRX4). 

Of the three, functionally, TRX4 wins. Hands down. But most expensive.  That leaves CR01 and CFX-W.  That'd be a coin toss.  Well made, well known and well loved Tamiya? Or well made new company that's cheaper?  To save myself from such difficult decisions, I am chickening out to smaller CFX. (Someday...when I stopped bleeding money on cheaper used Tamiyas on ebay. )  

 

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5 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Yes, CFX-W is too big for me (though it would be similar to CR01 and TRX4). 

Of the three, functionally, TRX4 wins. Hands down. But most expensive.  That leaves CR01 and CFX-W.  That'd be a coin toss.  Well made, well known and well loved Tamiya? Or well made new company that's cheaper?  To save myself from such difficult decisions, I am chickening out to smaller CFX. (Someday...when I stopped bleeding money on cheaper used Tamiyas on ebay. )  

 

I hear ya....i have a hard time spending over $500 on a kit, but for some reason i no problem spending double that on a few Tyco's from the 90s within a week:)

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While looking into CR01, I came across this Team Associated CR12 Ford F-150. 

It's 1:12 -- using a 380 motor.  Small, and accordingly, $185 RTR.  I'll put this one into the list of contenders too...

KS0efu4.jpg

 

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Ha! First problem with my Rock Socker screwing on the beadlocks, 10 screws per side, 20 screws per wheel:

First wheel cracked at 10 of the screw holes on the outer side, 1 on the rear side!

HUH?

Second wheel cracked at 5 of the screw holes on the outer side!!

STOP!

THINK!

What am I doing wrong? I'm using the correct screws and tightening them according to the diagram in the manual...

Digital vernier out and measure the holes at 1.70 to 1.72mm diameter, above the 1.6mm diameter tapping hole, but I believe the holes are tapered to allow the mould pin removal and narrower than 1.6mm diameter so crack at the bottom when the screw is inserted. They are also deeper on the rear of the wheel so less likely to crack.

Solution... drill out all holes with a 1.85mm diameter pcb drill, use M2x8 machine screws instead of self-tappers, and pre-thread the holes before assembly.

SORTED!

Though I just might've had a set of wheels that are more brittle than normal? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ And I've got to buy two new wheels. 🤬🤬

Edited by martinjpayne
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I haven't read much about the Team Associated 1/12 truck, but I do like the looks of it. It is very small, even smaller than an MST I believe.  Personally I would go with an MST over that no matter what, pretty sure the CR12 is just a private label Thunder Tiger anyway (Associated's parent company).

I still recommend getting a CR01 regardless.  Just tore mine down after a few months of hard running and it's in fantastic shape.  Just cleaned & oiled the motor, replaced a few bearings (damaged from mud/water), and replaced one of the slip yokes on the front driveshaft (starting to twist a bit).  I love my CR01, wouldnt trade it for anything.  Still looking for another project, so if anyone wants to pass one on just send me a note.

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7 minutes ago, martinjpayne said:

Ha! First problem with my Rock Socker screwing on the beadlocks, 10 screws per side, 20 screws per wheel:

First wheel cracked at 10 of the screw holes on the outer side, 1 on the rear side!

HUH?

Second wheel cracked at 5 of the screw holes on the outer side!!

STOP!

THINK!

What am I doing wrong? I'm using the correct screws and tightening them according to the diagram in the manual...

Digital vernier out and measure the holes at 1.70 to 1.72mm diameter, above the 1.6mm diameter tapping hole, but I believe the holes are tapered to allow the mould pin removal and narrower than 1.6mm diameter so crack at the bottom when the screw is inserted.

Solution... drill out all holes with a 1.85mm diameter pcb drill, use M2 machine screws instead of self-tappers, and pre-thread the holes before assembly.

SORTED!

Though I just might've had a set of wheels that are more brittle than normal? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ And I've got to buy two new wheels. 🤬🤬

Sorry to hear that.  I've never had an issue with the CR01 beadlocks, maybe you just got a bad set?  Glad to hear your solution works, definitely makes sense.  Be sure to add a few drops of adhesive on the wheels/tires even with the beadlocks, when they get wet they will spin inside of them.  I just add two drops of a removable adhesive on the inside bead and it's enough to keep them in place.  

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1 minute ago, 87lc2 said:

Sorry to hear that.  I've never had an issue with the CR01 beadlocks, maybe you just got a bad set?  Glad to hear your solution works, definitely makes sense.  Be sure to add a few drops of adhesive on the wheels/tires even with the beadlocks, when they get wet they will spin inside of them.  I just add two drops of a removable adhesive on the inside bead and it's enough to keep them in place.  

Thanks for that advice, an impact adhesive like Evo-Stik or similar?

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I use E6000 - https://www.amazon.com/E6000-230010-Craft-Adhesive-Ounces/dp/B007TSYNG8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=e6000&qid=1562879129&s=gateway&sr=8-3   

It's really great stuff, especially for tires.  Holds very firm but when you want to remove the tires just peel right off with no residue.  I just disassembled my CR01 wheels for cleaning and drying out the foams and the tires peeled right off, no issues whatsoever.

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Pimped a CC01 to the max for top end crawling and was v disappointed. 

It’s just not the right start point re centres of gravity, clearances and shock travel. 

It also ended up a technically v pretty - but heavy weight - whale. 

Then bought an SCX10, ran it stock and was delighted. 

This makes me want a CR01 too !

Looking back my CC01 ended up with enough over the axle weight, durability and poise to have beaten any MFX-01 with the right brushless power - but that’s a diff (!) story 😂

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Thinking of running these cheap 2.2 monster tires on the CR01.  They're pretty soft and the lugs will give plenty of bite, probably great in the mud.

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Mine cr01. Very funny with 2,2" duratrax tyres. F150 body cut, cage from axial

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As far as puting large Chevron tires on a CR01 I have always wondered how the SMT10 take off set would fit up. 

Tamiya stock tires are about 135 x 55

SMT's are close to that and maybe 70mm wide.

Thought it might be a good way at getting another monster truck variant given the CR01s great durability history.

I'd try it but I am out of the country presently.

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SMT10 wheels/tires fit just fine on the CR01, I've put them on a few times.  They are a little taller (~15mm) than the tires in my photos.  Problem with the SMT tires is they're hard and dont have much grip.   I'm sure the drivetrain would hold up just fine as long as you're not trying to jump it much.  May need to upgrade the driveshafts, I'm sure the stockers would twist eventually turning the taller/wider tires.   

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Is a CR01 worth the money?  Guess I'll find out soon.  I'd been looking at a few other crawlers but the CR01 Rock Socker was on sale so I decided to try it.

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The Axial SCX10 II and Traxxas TRX-4 were too expensive and the MST CFX-W didn't appeal for some reason.  I really like the GMade GS02 BOM (and the price is good if you can avoid customs charges), but the CR01 was available locally and on sale.

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You made a great choice, I'm sure you'll like it.  Especially the build.  Definitely a good choice over the CFX-W, I've heard bad things about their portal axle design.  The smaller MST trucks seems to be great, but I'd avoid the CFX-W.  Be sure to post some pics after the build.

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13 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

 Definitely a good choice over the CFX-W, I've heard bad things about their portal axle design.   

That's good to know. I shied away from "-W" because it was rather big. 

If portal gears have issues I'd stick with the smaller CFX-(no W).  Thank you for the heads up.  

 

 

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No problem, happy to help.  I am really enjoying my basic CFX.  It is pretty small, but a very capable little truck.  My father has been running one for a little while now with no issues.  I put a Blackfoot body on mine, perfect for the 252mm wheelbase.

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The CR-01 is very capable if set up right. It's my second favorite crawler besides my extremely modified Axial SXC-10 II. The best thing you should do first is throw away the garbage Tamiya tires and put a good set of 2.2 crawler tires on. Don't really need to do much more other than go have fun on a trail. ;)

 

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