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Peter_B

Anybody fitted Schumacher preglued wheels + tyres on a Tamiya?

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I might need to get some suitable tyres to put on the cars I intend to race at the Iconic Revival.

That will probably mean 2.2" tyres which will also mean new wheels.

The suggested tyres are Schumacher ones and I see that they are available, preglued onto Schumacher 12mm hex fitment wheels.

If I'm getting tyres and wheels it makes sense to get the preglued ones as it saves me a job :)

Anybody ever tried Schumacher wheels on a Tamiya? Are they generally ok in terms of offset and clearance etc?

The cars I'm running are my Boomerang and Top Force. Boomerang already has hex adaptors fitted.

 

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I have fitted schumacher 2.2" wheels to my Boomerang. I just used some Yeah Racing 12mm alloy clamping hexes and they all fitted fine. I could probably find part numbers if that helps?

Same hexes work with schumacher wheels on my TA07 too, but touring cars all take the same wheels so that doesn't help...

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The only thing i found is the female hex in the schumacher wheel isn't as deep as the Tamiya ones, so with the regular 6mm tamiya hexes there isn't a lot of thread engagement on the wheel nut. I swapoed to sone cheap 4.5mm thick hexes off ebay and it was all good. 

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

The only thing i found is the female hex in the schumacher wheel isn't as deep as the Tamiya ones, so with the regular 6mm tamiya hexes there isn't a lot of thread engagement on the wheel nut. I swapoed to sone cheap 4.5mm thick hexes off ebay and it was all good. 

So are you saying that the Schumacher wheel, from the inner face that sits against the hex, to the outer face the wheel nut tightens against, is thicker?

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34 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

So are you saying that the Schumacher wheel, from the inner face that sits against the hex, to the outer face the wheel nut tightens against, is thicker?

Yes, that's right, and the hex shape on the wheel inner face is shallower as a result. It's not much, but I couldn't get the nylock part of my wheelnuts onto the axle without the thinner hexes.

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54 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Yes, that's right, and the hex shape on the wheel inner face is shallower as a result. It's not much, but I couldn't get the nylock part of my wheelnuts onto the axle without the thinner hexes.

That could be a pain if I can't get any thinner hexes in time for the Revival.

I think I'll have to hold off ordering any wheels and tyres until I've had chance to try the wheels from my KF2.

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3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Yes, that's right, and the hex shape on the wheel inner face is shallower as a result. It's not much, but I couldn't get the nylock part of my wheelnuts onto the axle without the thinner hexes.

I don't use the Tamiya nuts when I use Schumacher wheels (which is always). On my Top Force and Egress I use the Scumacher nuts, possibly marketed as Core, can't quite remember!

They don't have nyloc, the flange is serrated so it grips the wheel. I've never had one come off.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-serrated-m4-steel-wheel-nut-pk4/rc-car-products/32795

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Now that I'm home from work I've been able to pull wheels off of my KF2 and try them on the Boomerang and Top Force.

The wheel centres are much thicker on the KF2 rear wheels when compared to the fronts. Seeing as the KF2 is 2wd, the front wheels don't really count so I just tested the rear KF2 wheels in both front and rear positions.

On the Boomerang I could get away with using the narrow serrated wheel nuts linked to above. There's not enough thread protruding to get away with the Tamiya nylocs but the serrated ones (same as on KF2) would work.

But on the Top Force there is barely any thread showing, maybe 3mm at best. Not even enough for me to be comfortable using the serrated nuts.

So it looks like I'll need to just order tyres and mount them myself.

I have a set of unused DF03/Dark Impact wheels (in white) that I believe are 2.2"?

I'll probably just order one set of tyres and inserts, mount them on the DF03 wheels and swap wheels between cars on the day.

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15 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

Now that I'm home from work I've been able to pull wheels off of my KF2 and try them on the Boomerang and Top Force.

The wheel centres are much thicker on the KF2 rear wheels when compared to the fronts. Seeing as the KF2 is 2wd, the front wheels don't really count so I just tested the rear KF2 wheels in both front and rear positions.

On the Boomerang I could get away with using the narrow serrated wheel nuts linked to above. There's not enough thread protruding to get away with the Tamiya nylocs but the serrated ones (same as on KF2) would work.

But on the Top Force there is barely any thread showing, maybe 3mm at best. Not even enough for me to be comfortable using the serrated nuts.

So it looks like I'll need to just order tyres and mount them myself.

I have a set of unused DF03/Dark Impact wheels (in white) that I believe are 2.2"?

I'll probably just order one set of tyres and inserts, mount them on the DF03 wheels and swap wheels between cars on the day.

Yes, the DF03 wheels are full size 2.2. And look better than the schumacher wheels

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19 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

The only thing i found is the female hex in the schumacher wheel isn't as deep as the Tamiya ones, so with the regular 6mm tamiya hexes there isn't a lot of thread engagement on the wheel nut. I swapoed to sone cheap 4.5mm thick hexes off ebay and it was all good. 

Can also use serrated wheel nuts instead of nyloc nuts if there isn't enough thread. Serrated nuts do tear up the plastic wheels over time if you take the wheels on and off a lot.

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On 7/19/2019 at 1:37 PM, Peter_B said:

That could be a pain if I can't get any thinner hexes in time for the Revival.

Can you not use the hexes off the kf2? If I remember it's a rubber band that holds the pin in?

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