Speed passion and gearing

[legau 8]

Hello, I have 2 speed passion, 10,5 and 13,5T v3. 

For the moment, I use the 13,5 in a tt02 with a 25T pinion and the stock spur gear.

i have several questions :

- I read somewhere that every motor has an optimal FDR. I find a table in another topic but i would like to have more info on that. How to use it ? What do I have to take into account for my tt02?

- I bought the high speed gear and a pinion of 35T with a spur gear of 64T. So basically I have 22/23/24/24/35T pinion and 70/68/64T spur gear. How would you configure it to have a decent final speed but still a good acceleration? With the 10,5 or 13,5?

- what do you use to solder your speed passion, what type of wires ? What type of connectors to do that properly?

- I have a tble02 esc, but If i follow the colour code BYO, I have to reverse the thrust on the remote. Any suggestion to have it correctly set ? 

- if I want another esc to go with the speed passion, what would be the best choice ? To benefit from its optimum efficiency? But also to upgrade to lipo in a near future ( I read that the tble02 should have a buzzer for low battery power, but what if I choose another esc, will it be equipped with that kind of security ?)

- is there any cons to use XT60 instead of tamiya or deans connector for the esc/battery ? 

Thanks 

[Wooders28 4722]

For gear ratios, i normally check motor temps, if it's hot,  then it's geared to tall (assuming the gearbox is free running etc etc) Generally on grass, I gear low and work from there, or add a bit of boost/timing. I only run off road buggies, so if I run on the road, I can run tall gears, fairly confident it won't run too hot.

4 hours ago, legau said:

what do you use to solder your speed passion, what type of wires ?

12awg silicon wires are the pretty much standard size.

4 hours ago, legau said:

What type of connectors to do that properly?

You should have 3 bullet connections with the motor, that push onto the motor. (Think the theory is, you can swap motors quickly in a racing environment)

4 hours ago, legau said:

I have a tble02 esc, but If i follow the colour code BYO, 

Not used those esc's,  but the motors are labelled A B C , and in sensored motors, need to be wired A to A etc (whatever "A" colour is on the tble02s)

 

4 hours ago, legau said:

if I want another esc to go with the speed passion, what would be the best choice ?

I went for a speed passion esc, but not available new these days. Depending on what your plans are, general bashing about I'd say hobbywings 10bl120 is hard to beat for the cash (£40) , if you're planning on racing,  then something more substantial like hobbywings XERUN (I've not run these, but a couple of the guys  at the club swear by them) at around £120, although I'm finding the reedy 510 flawless but at £220 new a bit pricey! (Got mine 2nd hand).

A better esc does extract more performance from a sensored motor, by being able to apply timing to the motor at various Rpm's,  a recent YouTube vid I watched managed to get 5200kv out of a 13.5t motor , which started as 3200kv in 'Blinky' (stock tune, zero timing).

4 hours ago, legau said:

But also to upgrade to lipo in a near future ( I read that the tble02 should have a buzzer for low battery power, but what if I choose another esc, will it be equipped with that kind of security ?)

Budget wise, you can get a low volt alarm that plug a into the balance lead ,off ebay for a quid. But as you say, if you get a new ESC, it should have a low volt cut off (generally adjustable) built in.

4 hours ago, legau said:

is there any cons to use XT60 instead of tamiya or deans connector for the esc/battery ? 

Personal preference, I've cut the XT60 off one of mine and solder on a deans , only because most of mine are on deans (race cars on 4mm bullets).

Either way, ditch the molex (tamiya) plugs, they have a rating of 15A, and can struggle providing the juice of a nimh, the 13.5t with timing pulled around 100Amps peak (if I remembered right 🙄) 

[legau 8]

46 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

For gear ratios, i normally check motor temps, if it's hot,  then it's geared to tall (assuming the gearbox is free running etc etc) Generally on grass, I gear low and work from there, or add a bit of boost/timing. I only run off road buggies, so if I run on the road, I can run tall gears, fairly confident it won't run too hot.

12awg silicon wires are the pretty much standard size.

You should have 3 bullet connections with the motor, that push onto the motor. (Think the theory is, you can swap motors quickly in a racing environment)

Not used those esc's,  but the motors are labelled A B C , and in sensored motors, need to be wired A to A etc (whatever "A" colour is on the tble02s)

 

I went for a speed passion esc, but not available new these days. Depending on what your plans are, general bashing about I'd say hobbywings 10bl120 is hard to beat for the cash (£40) , if you're planning on racing,  then something more substantial like hobbywings XERUN (I've not run these, but a couple of the guys  at the club swear by them) at around £120, although I'm finding the reedy 510 flawless but at £220 new a bit pricey! (Got mine 2nd hand).

A better esc does extract more performance from a sensored motor, by being able to apply timing to the motor at various Rpm's,  a recent YouTube vid I watched managed to get 5200kv out of a 13.5t motor , which started as 3200kv in 'Blinky' (stock tune, zero timing).

Budget wise, you can get a low volt alarm that plug a into the balance lead ,off ebay for a quid. But as you say, if you get a new ESC, it should have a low volt cut off (generally adjustable) built in.

Personal preference, I've cut the XT60 off one of mine and solder on a deans , only because most of mine are on deans (race cars on 4mm bullets).

Either way, ditch the molex (tamiya) plugs, they have a rating of 15A, and can struggle providing the juice of a nimh, the 13.5t with timing pulled around 100Amps peak (if I remembered right 🙄) 

Wow thanks for the infos. 

When you say you add a little bit timing,  I guess that’s not possible with the tble02?

If i understand correctly the theory, the lesser turns you have in the motor, the more torque it will provide ? Meaning if I have to choose between a 13,5T and 10,5T with same gear, I would prefer the 10,5T if I go to the grass etc. And it will run less hot than the 13,5T, right ?

when you say low volt built in, I guess if the esc is programmable (connection to a pc) you have all the features you need (low volt cut, timings, firmware upgrades, etc.). If it doesn’t, i can forget about it?? 

 I will ditch the tamiya plugs, that was planned, but since I have all my lipo in xt60 for my drones, I was hesitating to have both deans and xt60. Either way, both are great but I won’t fly with a dean plug ever, so xt60 would be a good choice for esc and lipo/nimh.

you have a recommendation for the wires and connectors ? (Brand, shop, ...)

[ThunderDragonCy 7876]

Here you go.

For grass i would knock the buggy gearing up 1 (so for 10.5 run around 9 FDR instead of the suggested 8 in the table), but otherwise thishas been pretty good for me

[TurnipJF 9192]

I can't comment on the FDR questions I'm afraid - I gear according to temperature.

Most Speed Passion motors use 3.5mm bullet connectors, with the male side integral with the motor and the female side supplied plugged into them. You can remove these and solder them onto the wires from your ESC. If the motor is new they can be quite stiff, so a gentle twist with a pair of long nose pliers might be needed to free them.

Most speed controllers come with wires already attached, so I solder these to the connectors supplied with the motor. If I need to extend the wires, like I did with my FF-01 for example, I match the gauge of the wire already supplied with the ESC. A 60W soldering iron is plenty for the job.

It is common for the throttle channel to have to be reversed for the TBLE-02 to work correctly - it mentions this in the instructions IIRC. Not sure why - just the way it was made.

Timing is fixed on the TBLE-02. If looking for more performance and adjustability than the TBLE-02 can provide, I'd also go for a Hobbywing, either 10BL60 or 10BL120 depending on the application and expected current draw. Like most modern ESCs, both come with LiPo cutoffs built in. You don't need to connect it to a PC to program it - a little hand-held programming box is a lot less hassle and costs under a tenner.

XT60s are popular enough - I see no reason not to choose them as your standard if you like.

The lower the turns, the more current the motor draws and the higher it revs, but it would also potentially run hotter. So in the scenario you put forward, all else being equal, I would choose the 13.5t for terrain that causes more drag, and the 10.5t for terrain that offers less resistance.

[legau 8]

2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Here you go.

For grass i would knock the buggy gearing up 1 (so for 10.5 run around 9 FDR instead of the suggested 8 in the table), but otherwise thishas been pretty good for me

Please correct me if i’m Wrong. Gear ratio of the TT02 is 2,6. If I installed the 10,5 in my touring car tt02, with a spur of 68 and pinion of 35, I have a FDR of 5 so the motor should run perfectly right ?

and for the buggy with the 13,5T, with a spur of 70 and a pinion of 25, I would have a FDR of 7,28 which is close to the optimum ?

am I missing something?

[legau 8]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

I can't comment on the FDR questions I'm afraid - I gear according to temperature.

Most Speed Passion motors use 3.5mm bullet connectors, with the male side integral with the motor and the female side supplied plugged into them. You can remove these and solder them onto the wires from your ESC. If the motor is new they can be quite stiff, so a gentle twist with a pair of long nose pliers might be needed to free them.

Most speed controllers come with wires already attached, so I solder these to the connectors supplied with the motor. If I need to extend the wires, like I did with my FF-01 for example, I match the gauge of the wire already supplied with the ESC. A 60W soldering iron is plenty for the job.

It is common for the throttle channel to have to be reversed for the TBLE-02 to work correctly - it mentions this in the instructions IIRC. Not sure why - just the way it was made.

Timing is fixed on the TBLE-02. If looking for more performance and adjustability than the TBLE-02 can provide, I'd also go for a Hobbywing, either 10BL60 or 10BL120 depending on the application and expected current draw. Like most modern ESCs, both come with LiPo cutoffs built in. You don't need to connect it to a PC to program it - a little hand-held programming box is a lot less hassle and costs under a tenner.

XT60s are popular enough - I see no reason not to choose them as your standard if you like.

The lower the turns, the more current the motor draws and the higher it revs, but it would also potentially run hotter. So in the scenario you put forward, all else being equal, I would choose the 13.5t for terrain that causes more drag, and the 10.5t for terrain that offers less resistance.

My 2 speed passion motors come unwired but now I know what wire to use and what type of connector, I will do my wirings at the exact size I need.

thanks for the info about the tble02, I really will drop this thing. 

What would be the pro and cons about a 60A or 120A esc ? Because for the price difference (5 euros), is it not better to take the 120A directly ?

i saw the programming box, I didn’t know that was for that purpose ;-) are they compatible with all the brands or they are specific per brand?

[TurnipJF 9192]

The 10BL60 is smaller and lighter than the 10BL120, so if you are looking to save weight and space in a race car that won't ever need the extra 60A capacity, you had might as well go for the 10BL60. However if you need the extra capacity, or are bashing with no concern for size and weight, the 10BL120 would be a better bet.

The programming boxes are usually brand specific, although since Hobbywing ESCs are sometimes rebranded and there are also clones on the market, this isn't a hard and fast rule.

[ThunderDragonCy 7876]

35 minutes ago, legau said:

Please correct me if i’m Wrong. Gear ratio of the TT02 is 2,6. If I installed the 10,5 in my touring car tt02, with a spur of 68 and pinion of 35, I have a FDR of 5 so the motor should run perfectly right ?

and for the buggy with the 13,5T, with a spur of 70 and a pinion of 25, I would have a FDR of 7,28 which is close to the optimum ?

am I missing something?

Exactly right, although i would check motor temperatures on the 10.5 in the touring car. You might need to gear down (higher FDR) to keep temperatures sensible. 

[Wooders28 4722]

Think you've got all the answers I'd would have given, @legau so nothing much to add, other than , of you're anything like me, you'll want to go quicker sooner rather than later, and the 10bl120 will run down to a 3.5t motor on 2s 🙄😁

For the money, they offer some good basic features, the timing isn't anything as good as the more expensive ones, but seems not too bad (but watch temps), you don't need a programme card or pc to programme it, you can do it from the button on the on/off switch and count the , beeps, but it's much easier with a card.

(The 60 programme options are the same as the 120)