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graemevw

Building a tt02 racer, few questions

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Im building a budget tt02 for a bit of club racing.

Its a basic tt02 with no hop ups yet apart from cva's and clamping hex's.

All ive done is build it carefully and shim everything that needed it.

Ill be using 17.5t brushless. Ive got some rush wheels and tyres and a zoo racing body.

Im quite happy how the build has gone together but there is a fair bit of play in the front top arm ball mounts. The bottoms are fine. Any way to reduce this? It may not matter as i may use turnbuckles for the top arms.

The steering throw is limited but not by the knuckles, the steering arms hit the little piece that clips in under the front prop joint. Trim it back?

Its coming in at 180mm wide. There isnt enough axle to add 5mm to each side with hex's etc, any other options? Ill be using pre mount tyres so i seem to be stuck with standard offset wheels. Is it worth worrying about? Seems as much track width as possible would be good.

The body is sold as a 190mm body, but it measures 200mm. Is that normal?

 

This is just a bit of fun, a bit of track time with something cheap and simple. Im just looking to try and optimise the basic chassis.

Ive read all the rc racer tt02 posts i could find!

Thanks.

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That piece that clips in under the prop joint can be omitted entirely. It's sole purpose is to limit steering throw as you've found out. The hubs and lower arms have stops on them as well which you can cut off to achieve more steering lock. If you remove all that it is possible in a crash for the tie rod to over-centre where it attaches to the hub, jamming the steering. You can just pop it back by hand, but it could cost you valuable track time. If you're using dog bones instead of universal shafts it is possible for the dog bone to be ejected when this happens also.

Upper ball joint can be tightened with the steel ball hopup but money is better spent just changing the top arm to a 4.8/5mm ball joint and turnbuckle arm.

You are right that wider track is better and it is worth trying to get as close to 190mm as possible. Should be able to fit 8 or 9mm hexes with the standard driveshafts if you use serrated wheel nuts (e.g. Tamiya #42282). The wheels will stay on securely with only 2 or 3 threads engaged on the nut because the serrations will bite into the plastic wheel and lock in place. The downside is that they chew up your wheels every time you take them on and off.

The body being 200mm may be considered oversize - depends on your local club rules. Usually at a club level they will be more strict on the track width of the chassis than the actual body.

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Thanks.

Do you think the stock steering is limited too much? I could trim, rather than remove, the stops to get more steering without the over throw issues.

Yes, if its a case of spending money, ill swap the top arms. I have all the bits except suitable length turnbuckles.

Good tip on the wheel nuts, i could even slim nylocks down in the lathe i guess. Shame as i have a spare set of egress locking hexes that are very nice but wider track would be better.

I re measured the body and its just wider at the bottom, presumable to get it off the mould. Its a race legal 190mm body so i assume its ok. Not that i think it will matter at this level. 

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I just realised you can get wider axles for tt02, c6. No inculded in every kit. No desire to buy 4 C trees though.

If i eventually end up fitting metal driveshafts, or universals, do they also come in long and short thread versions? 

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Ive done alot of the same things, but hadnt thought about taping the front knuckles pin inside the ball.

Ill give it a try.

I will probably upgrade it a little but i only want to upgrade what it proves to me that it needs.

Ive also never driven an on road car really, so i will be absolutely hopeless for a while! Sort of nervous about being in any kind of organised race! I see much car park practice in my future!

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One thing that will help with installing the ball over the taped kingpin is to use a body reamer to add some taper to one side of the ball.  When I tried to install a stock ball over the taped kingpin, it would hang up on the edge of the tape and needed some creative shoe horning.  But when I added just a little bit of taper to the ball's inner hole, it slipped over the tape much more easily.

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