Capra-Cornholio! (aka. Lil'Scamp/Willy's Rocker Mk.3)

[JennyMo 3526]

A quick build update after all that battery chatter...

I have also revised the rear shock layout - initially I was pleased with how I'd been able to utilise these spare leaf-spring brackets as shock mounts on the Yota axles - giving valuable clearance for the shock bodies against the cage by angling the shocks backwards despite this shorter wheelbase:

However, I always felt one of those brackets (and I only have the two) would also be perfect as an upper mount for the Panhard rod I plan to fit to the Defender 90 now those new axles have arrived; so was able to re-jig the rear shocks (now I'm using the thinner internally-sprung 90mm shock bodies) so they mount in a more traditional location and orientation:

Right, now to get on with that Defender refurbishment too - it's all go here!

Jx

 

[Busdriver 6209]

You and me both. I recently bought a Losi BajaRey Raptor running 3S Lipos haveing never used them before, even though I had a compatible charger. Having seen what they can do I'm looking to change most of the fleet to Lipos over the next few months. The Sheridan will stay with NiMh and I may keep the trail runners on them as well but the rest will gradually get changed over.

[JennyMo 3526]

A quick update: I'm enjoying running this (with the 2S Lipo - so much so that I'm converting both Desmond and Defender to Lipo too now - about time!), and despite the lowish underbelly, am impressed with how nimble it is on the narrow axles and 115mm tyres...

I've tweaked the electronics layout too - the Receiver is now inside the fuel cell in the rear, while the ESC is mounted in the recommended position from Axial, on the small vertical plate on the rear of the cabin cage (so not really sure what those recesses on the battery tray footwell bulkhead are for then?)... and this has significantly cleaned up the interior layout, so much so that with a little cable wrap to hide the remaining wires (while still leaving reasonable access to connect/disconnect the battery for charging), I could now fit a 3/4 depth interior including seat-backs and the majority of a driver figure I feel... but who* to choose? 

*As per the revised thread title, Beavis maybe?!

Still debating on the bodywork too... part of me would like to cut some custom panels with decals (the TRD Yellow/Orange/Red stripe combo currently being my favourite) and sponsor stickers, but I'm still drawn to the simplicity of some pre-cut aluminium panels, with or without some decals too.

photo. cardboard templates, just in case I decide to cut my own panels...

Then again, perhaps a wrap of some sort as per my cereal packet templates might be just the ticket?!

As an [un]wise man once said: "I need some TP for my bung hole!"

More soon!

Jenny x

[MadInventor 3884]

I like the Kelloggs sponsorship scheme  myself.

 

[Busdriver 6209]

Stick with high fibre

[JennyMo 3526]

Just a quick update to this thread:

After a little more mocking up, I finally got round to fabricating some proper (waterproof) panels out of styrene - in this instance 1mm thickness...

photo. vented bonnet and comically oversize scoop on the roof!

 

photo. painted satin black on the inside, and wrapped in carbon fibre effect vinyl on the outside.

 

photo. the scoop was purposely cut this way to show the cage underneath.

 

photo. mesh insert in the bonnet vent, plus the front panel in front of the servo.

I think these fabricated 'carbon' panels work pretty well, and are suitably different to the usual off-the-shelf Capra bodywork - typically either the painted/stickered stock lexan ones, or aftermarket aluminium* (similar to those I fitted to the SRB Cage Racer for example)...

*However, that is the problem... I keep comparing this build to the SRB Cage Racer! - and just love that raw aluminium look for the bodywork together with the black plastic cage, even if it isn't truly scale in the same way as my other more weathered builds... so I confess I've finally clicked the buy-it-now button on Ebay, and am waiting for those metal alternatives to arrive.

Ultimately I might well end up with a mix and match approach - not least in an effort to keep this simple and robust for more regular and rougher running than some of my other builds - and of course it's simple enough on a cage buggy like this to swap the body panels from time to time as I wish anyway, essentially having a different outfit as the mood takes me... maybe I need Barbie rather than Beavis driving after all!

More soon!

Jenny x

 

 

[Re-Bugged 10147]

Very tidy Jenny,  it would be a perfect all rounder machine for over here 👍🏻

You could probably fit a couple of small discrete  LED’s in the roof scoop??

[87lc2 2666]

This thing looks awesome, great work!  Especially like the body work.  

[JennyMo 3526]

7 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Very tidy Jenny,  it would be a perfect all rounder machine for over here 👍🏻

You could probably fit a couple of small discrete  LED’s in the roof scoop??

Yes, I basically built this as a 'keep in the boot of the car' runner - just in case I see a nice spot on my travels and want to take a break for a while.

With the 55T motor, the 3-gear (Axial style) transmission, the 2.64:1 axle ratios (I think), plus the 2S Lipo, it actually has quite the turn of speed - ie. faster than walking pace - plus enough torque and articulation to crawl over some pretty demanding terrain - so it does make a good all-rounder for rougher trail running for sure!

As for LEDs, the bar across the front of the upper cage is actually a moulded light-bar, and I bought the dedicated LED insert from Axial ($11.99 as I recall) which was a great way to get some very bright lights, while keeping things low profile and hopefully robust enough in the event of a roll-over...

Once I get the new body panels and some decals on - oh, and some seats and a driver too - I'll endeavour to take some static and actions shots in the coming weeks!

Jenny x

[JennyMo 3526]

4 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

This thing looks awesome, great work!  Especially like the body work.  

Thank you 87lc2 - yes, the Capra seems pretty popular these days, so it's increasingly difficult to personalise one (other than decals of course) - so I felt fabricating my own bonnet and roof panels would go some way to address this.

for info. the full Capra kit comes with portal axles, which are significantly wider, and most builds tend to feature somewhat larger diameter tyres too - so I thought I was being clever using more a more realistic wheel size and scale axles, and shorter travel shocks too...

Of course noodling around on some of the crawler forums, it turns out a number of people have had a similar thought with regard to the overall stance - typically swapping out the portals for regular SCX10 style axles, and often shorter shocks too, in an effort to lower the centre of gravity and make it even more capable when crawling... however, I still feel this is somewhat unique in having such a short wheelbase and the more narrow Yota II style axles.

Compact and Bijou Mostyn, Compact and Bijou.

Jenny x

 

[87lc2 2666]

I was debating on whether to get a Capra or not and you may have helped push me over the edge.  I typically like more "truck" looking rigs but starting to really like the comp look, especially when little changes are made to make it look even better.  I always thought the Capra axles looked a bit too wide, so this is a perfect solution.  I don't really need portals anyway, I just crawl around for fun.

[JennyMo 3526]

Just a quick update:

 

Yes, my 'Luxury Radio Controlled' body panels just arrived in the post, and they are excellent! - a perfect fit with the screws and holes in the cage, and being cut from 0.040" (1mm) aluminium, nice and solid too with no warping/flexing.

photo. I'm actually digging this look and considering keeping the protective film in place!

 

I can certainly recommend these if you've got a Capra and want a raw metal finish, or even as a basis for paint/wrap with some realistic weathering with use; and I've already got some decals which are going to work really well with the raw aluminium I feel...

Of course I realise this is looking more and more like a regular Capra now, rather than a scale rock bouncer which was my original idea... but it just seems more appropriate to keep this simple and robust for running - although I do intend to fit as much of an interior and a driver figure as I can.

More soon!

Jenny x

 

[JennyMo 3526]

A quick update to this thread... what with [finishing off] all my other projects going on, this has been on the back burner for a while, but I trust you'll think it was worth the wait:

Yes, as per the original thread title, it was almost inevitable that Beavis would end up driving this one!

While I initially considered building this as more of a scale rock buggy, ultimately it was pretty obvious the interior really doesn't lend itself to full depth seats and driver figure/s anyway, so that dictated the more 'comical' overall theme... 

Thinking laterally, along with Beavis (& Butthead), I thought I'd also incorporate some of creator Mike Judge's other shows - the Hooli logos (from Silicon Valley) working particularly well on the raw aluminium body panels I thought?

photo. Hooli [gan] logos plus a mix of Axial and RC4WD stickers (for the chassis/transmission and Yota axle combo)
 

Meanwhile the licence plates pay homage to his other animated show, again set in Texas - rather than 'King of the Hammers', it's yep, you guessed it:

photo. "...for my bung-hole!"
 

Oh how we laughed!

Once I decided that Beavis had to be the driver, I trawled eBay for a suitable action figure that I might not mind chopping up a bit as necessary... Unfortunately the only Beavis & Butthead action figures available these days are rather too small (listed as 3.75" figures, although in this instance with their oversize cartoon heads, these ones are approx 5" tall) for this size vehicle; and as a double blow they are not cheap either - this example ended up costing me around $25 posted... however, the gamble essentially paid off in that I factored his head itself would be around 2" tall, which would mean the proportions actually worked rather well in the cockpit once his head was attached to a Tamiya Wild Willy driver torso. 

photo. Ooops, I broke him already...

Because I ended up only using his head anyway (yes, that was a particularly expensive head!), I thought it would be easy enough to animate it using a micro servo in conjunction with the steering as I did ages ago with the Wild Willy driver figure in the STUMPKamper, and would simply paint his overalls in a similar shade to his original Metallica T-shirt seen in the show.

photo. Initial mock up - right arm/hand had to be modified to clear transmission.

The interior plate is fabricated from a flat sheet of styrene, mounted as low as possible above the motor, with the top half of two [rubber] seat backs glued in place to add further detail in an effort to fool the eye there is a full interior. Beavis himself is held in position with an M3 screw through his left arm (as per the Wild Willy mounting), so he can still be removed if the servo ever needs servicing/replacing for example...

Ultimately, the packaging of the Capra is, shall we say 'compact' at best, and for practicality [of running and battery changing etc] the most suitable place for the ESC ended up being on the footwell bulkhead after all... Of course typically the cooling fins on the 1060 version I had were just a touch to large to clear the transmission weren't they?, so I ended up replacing it with a more slimline Hobbywing 1080 model, which I have to say, I think is worth the extra cost - not that I intend to 'programme' it much from the stock settings [using the included programmer], rather primarily for the compact dimensions and higher quality on/off switch - I can see why people like these.

 

photo. The power switch glows when it's on - kewl huh? heh heh, heh heh heh...

 

So that is pretty much the Capra completed now - I've already had a lot of fun running this (it has quite a surprising turn of speed on 2S LiPo using the 3-gear transmission and RC4WD Yota II axles, and yet still crawls with really nice slow speed precision) before Beavis was installed, and now I can't wait to get it out and about again!

photo. suspension is set up with a droop bias - using 90mm shock bodies with 80mm springs inside.

photo. low ride-height (on 115mm tyres and regular/non-portal axles) makes it very stable, although it does drag it's belly.

Right, I suppose I ought to get back to something far more sensible now!

Jenny x

[Killajb 1546]

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about this build, and your thought process throughout.  Looks awesome and unique, great job!

[JennyMo 3526]

11 hours ago, Killajb said:

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about this build, and your thought process throughout.  Looks awesome and unique, great job!

Thank you!

Yes - while this thread initially started out as a budget build using some existing parts, it's kind of morphed into a whole new vehicle - although the transmission axles and wheels remain from that initial rock buggy of course…

Hopefully this build illustrates that you can actually create something unique and cohesive from an otherwise seemingly random collection of parts, with few and only minor modifications, rather than an full on scratch build - so more like an example of traditional 'kit bashing' as it were.

While I admit it's still not as 'scale' or highly detailed as some of my other models, in this instance I did this on purpose as the idea was to create a robust runner - something to just go and have fun with rather than worry about damaging a more elaborate bodywork or other details…

In that regard, I hope it ought to need minimum general maintenance too, not least as the compact dimensions of the cage body means it's a real fiddle to get inside to access the electronics - although fortunately the design of overall the Capra means it's very easy to access the shock mounts (for servicing and damper piston/oil/spring changes etc.) for example, and the whole upper body connects to the transmission skid plate with just 4 screws should you ever have to split it apart. I also really like the fact that you can just open the bonnet to change the battery - indeed, that is something I intend to incorporate into my next more scale build...

 

Stay tuned!

Jenny x

[Baddon 860]

Jenny, LOVE your work.

[Collin 1956]

21 hours ago, JennyMo said:

Celebrity Death Match with Beavis and Butthead. Anyone remember?

The 1080 bolted on the dashboard is a genius idear! Love it. Loive it all.

 

[JennyMo 3526]

On 2/9/2021 at 2:15 PM, Collin said:

Celebrity Death Match with Beavis and Butthead. Anyone remember?

The 1080 bolted on the dashboard is a genius idear! Love it. Loive it all.

 

Ha - I found it on YouTube!

Jx

[Collin 1956]

hehe, he hee hehe. Yarp...

 

I needet to watch them that time I saw your post and it brought me directly back into the 90s when MTV was a goosd music sender. Your picture with the cut off head made me time travelling : )

 

[JennyMo 3526]

A quick update to this thread too, although if I'm honest it's mainly just 'bold new graphics'...

photo. matching front numberplate added too.

photo. my trick to cutting decals around body screws is to use a hole punch.

I always felt that simplicity was the key with this build - less is more etc. - so elected to replace the mix of smaller decals on each side panel with a larger version of the Hooli logo, and used one of the original 4" size trimmed as a bonnet decal instead.

After all, as Beavis will tell you: "I am - [Capra] - Corn - Hooli - O! ...heh heh heh."

Jenny x

[JennyMo 3526]

Time to update and upgrade this little runt I feel...

Having played mix-and-match with a number of motor and transmission components in various models recently, I felt my BJ40 Retro Desmond would ultimately sit better on more scale accurate Yota II axles - so swapped these for the more chunky K44s under that build, which in turn means you can now appreciate the additional scale detailing of the K44s since the Capra has exposed axles, plus the [performance] benefit of having XVD shafts in the front steering knuckles - win win!

 

 

I also swapped out the previous 9Kg shorty steering servo with a far more powerful 35Kg version, and the RC4WD 55T 3-slot motor with a 13T 5-slot Holmes Hobbies 'Crawlmaster Sport' motor - although with such few windings in comparison*, this is perhaps a little too fast - and more of a rock-racer than the crawler now - still, the smooth pick-up of the 5-slot motor and comparative light-weight of the Capra means it still seems to crawl at slower speeds very well too.

*for those unfamiliar (as I was) as far as I can ascertain from t'internet - a 3-slot motor has twice the number of turns as a 5-slot motor for a given speed - ie. a 35T 3-slot would be similar to a 16T 5-slot... so in this instance, I've made a huge jump from 55T to 13T (ie. x3) with essentially 50% more speed than before. 

I also understand that a 5-slot [brushed] motor has a far smoother pick-up (so ideal for very slow speed crawling control) compared to a 3-slot motor, so must confess I am at a loss as to why you might run a 3-slot at all? - I can only presume that a 3-slot offers more torque, and/or will not get as [heat] overloaded as quickly under strain perhaps? - hopefully someone can enlighten me!

Anyway, all I know is the Capra is an utter animal now, and can't wait to get it out on the trails!

photo. I've also replaced the original all-black aluminium bead-locks with these more fancy Raceline versions from RC4WD.

note. You may also notice that I've currently retired animated Beavis from driving duty, and will fabricate a more simple interior plate to hide the transmission and electronics. There will still be some semblance of a driver and seats in future, but ultimately I want to keep this build as more of a rough-and-tumble runner, although I do have a plan for an alternative set of bodywork which ought to add a little more exterior detailing too.

More soon!

Jenny

[JennyMo 3526]

"It's a Wrap!"

Since Christmas is fast approaching, along with any presents I thought I might give the Capra a wrap too...

A quick recap: As part of my upgrades and rejigging of what was originally a very budget rock-bouncer build, I thought I'd try and focus on improving the trail/crawling performance with a faster motor (13T 5-slot brushed instead of a 55T 3-slot), improved steering lock (replacing the original Yota II 'copy' axles with genuine RC4WD K44 axles which come with XVD shafts already installed) and beef up the steering servo (35Kg instead of the 9Kg shorty original)... and I have to say, this thing is a little rocket now, even on a modest 2S shorty battery.

Having an animated Beavis driver was an amusing twist on the usual I thought, however I also thought I'd have a go at simplifying the interior, while at the same time, try and add a little more detail to the build overall, as I always felt it looked a little unfinished in it's raw aluminium panels and simple Hooli decals (although fear not, all those original parts have been safely stored away in my Capra Wardrobe, should I wish to play swapsies again), so I bought a sheet of 1mm thick (or is that thin?) aluminium, and set to work cutting a new set of panels:

photo. I found a cheap way of buying a sheet of aluminium stock was to purchase a sign 'blank' - in this instance 6x24", which only cost me $10 and came already coated in white (they come in other colours too I recall) - so no need for paint, you could just leave it plain or add a few stickers...

 

photo. using my original panels as templates, I could draw on the clear protective film, then score with a sharp Stanley knife ('box-cutter' for you 'merkins), and snap the score lines by placing the sheet in a vice (or 'vise' again for any Americans ;o)

 

I also spent some time with a cardboard template to design a simple interior plate (subsequently cut from aluminium, and covered in carbon-fibre wrap) which follows the cage line exactly, and is high enough to clear the 3-gear transmission mounted below:

And also cut some rubber netting and tacked it to the inside of the cage with superglue for window nets on each side - helping to hide the fact that there is [currently] no longer a driver or any interior details - for the moment at least...

photo. right, time for some colour I think!

 

Try as I might, I just couldn't come up with a paint scheme or collection of decals that I felt really worked... then it hit me - much as I'd done with the carbon-fibre wrap on the roof panel and interior plate, why not use a large 'sheet' decal in more of a wrap style, and having a number of large [7.5" diameter] Buff stickers left over from years ago, these would end up being the perfect size for what would be effectively a random design, but which was still recognisable as the original company logo:

photo. is it Duff or is it Buf - who knows? who cares? - it's looks kewl to me!

 

I was really pleased how effective this semi-random pattern worked out - by pealing off the backing and plonking the panel down on the back of the decal, I then trimmed around it with approximately a 10mm overlap, and folded it around the aluminium panels... and the nice thing about using a wrap/decal rather than paint is that you can always replace it if it gets damaged, or if you fancy a change (I also have some GPR Stabilzer decals in a similar size, so watch this space... I may even have to cut another set of panels! ;o)

Together with a few choice Axial (chassis and transmission) and RC4WD (axles and wheels) decals, I think the end result is far more striking that it was before...

photo. new [headlight blanking] nose panel also wrapped in matching Buff colours...

 

photo. Window nets were painstakingly attached with superglue to the inside of the cage... and really add to the rock-racer KOH look.

 

photo. interior is currently empty, but I do plan to address that it time... most likely with a [driver] head and shoulders, and a pair of seat-backs as before.

 

photo. RC4WD Raceline wheels have finally found a home on the Capra - they suit it particularly well I feel.

 

photo. Ebay internal spring shocks (90mm length, but with 80mm springs inside for more droop) dressed up with some decals.

 

photo. hopefully they will let me into Axialfest next year (even though the narrow K44 axles are not 'technically' correct).

 

photo. I recovered the aluminium roof with more carbon-fibre wrap too as it had started to get scratched after a number of roll-overs.

 

photo. RC4WD K44 axles offer more scale detail, and the open-wheel buggy design of the Capra really shows them off... for info. the track width of this vehicle is 190mm from the centre of each tyre.

 

photo. the front K44 comes with much stronger XVD (CV) drive shafts, improving the steering lock too - and I also repositioned the K44 steering gear to offer maximum clearance.

 

photo. the finishing touch - got to keep it street legal of course... and Beavis remains in spirit at least!

 

photo. Yeah Racing 'Claws' tyres are suprisingly soft and grippy for their modest price... with a narrow track and 280mm wheelbase on this build, they are about as big as will fit without rubbing on the chassis at full lock and articulation.

 

 

 

 

 

Right, I think it's time to hit the trails again in the new and improved "Capra-corn [mk.] II"

I hope you like this latest evolution!

Jenny x

[87lc2 2666]

Looks awesome.  Those K44 axles are just too cool, I need to use them on a truck at some point. Are they known to hold up to hard use?  

[JennyMo 3526]

47 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Looks awesome.  Those K44 axles are just too cool, I need to use them on a truck at some point. Are they known to hold up to hard use?  

Hi 87' - I get the impression that RC4WDs axles are primarily for 'scale' / trail running vehicles, in that while they are all metal, they don't have huge inner shafts or oversize bearings etc. like you get on some more heavy duty 'crawler' axles.

That said, as long as you're not driving like an animal and/or putting loads of power through them (or getting them bound up in really gnarly crawler terrain) I think you ought to be fine - and especially with a smaller lighter vehicle like this Capra, they ought to be more than robust enough... and as I mention above, these K44 versions (rather than the Yota II style which are dimensionally similar but have a smaller/rounder pumpkin and slightly less detail) include the 'upgraded' XVD front drive shafts, rather than using dog-bones and cups in the front hubs which are the weak link with the Yota II version, and which are essentially the same price.

Stronger and more scale looking - what's not to love right?!

I like 'em!

Jenny x

 

 

[87lc2 2666]

1 minute ago, JennyMo said:

Hi 87' - I get the impression that RC4WDs axles are primarily for 'scale' / trail running vehicles, in that while they are all metal, they don't have huge inner shafts or oversize bearings etc. like you get on some more heavy duty 'crawler' axles.

That said, as long as you're not driving like an animal and/or putting loads of power through them (or getting them bound up in really gnarly crawler terrain) I think you ought to be fine - and especially with a smaller lighter vehicle like this Capra, they ought to be more than robust enough... and as I mention above, these K44 versions (rather than the Yota II style which are dimensionally similar but have a smaller/rounder pumpkin and slightly less detail) include the 'upgraded' XVD front drive shafts, rather than using dog-bones and cups in the front hubs which are the weak link with the Yota II version, and which are essentially the same price.

Stronger and more scale looking - what's not to love right?!

I like 'em!

Jenny x

 

 

I always had that impression of their axles as well, but they look so good.  I don't beat on my trail trucks so think I'll give them a try at some point.  They would look great under my Clod-bodied SCX10 that's currently running MST axles.  

Thanks for posting, this thing looks awesome!