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BoraBora

Advice for a beginner wanting to get into building

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Hello, I am new to RC car building and wanted to get into it. 

Over a year ago I got a Arrma Kraton 6s 1/8 truck which is just an absolute amazing truck to drive and bash around in its RTR form it amazed me and i couldn't ask for more from it, I am leaving this stock until anything breaks and it is holding up amazingly. I plan to buy a Arrma Limitless roller when its available also to build a high speed car. 

I wanted to get more into road racing cars and the building aspect, I am a big fan of Subaru's, so to get me started and because I am a big Subaru fan I bought a Tamiya XB Series NBR WRX STI TT02, I got it for a good deal NIB ready to run, since I didn't really want to jump into a building kit my first car I just wanted to have a fun little car to drive around the house at first and it did just that, it is awesome as is but I want to look into modding/ customizing and making it quicker especially later on.

I am even almost wanting to start a small collection of specifically Subaru inspired rc cars.I would like to pick a good chassis to start with and possibly build most cars with the same chassis. Ive looked into making a rally one and came across the XV01 chassis which is designed for rally  with its covered body but this is another story I guess.

Having a hard debate between getting into building a kit and which one,  or just buying RTR stuff like my Kraton. It seems like a lot of work which I dont mind, it looks fun to me,  I just dont know what ill be expecting on the way ive seen a couple build threads at most.

So if thees anyone that has gone thru this experience and would like to help me go down a good route on getting started please give me you're thoughts. is tt02 good to build off of and continue building with, is there way better options for someone like me to go off of, seems the tt02 is a older chassis, Ive seen all the new spec'd ones the S , D, R, RR, should I be choosing one of these kits instead of trying to do something like, a yeah racing full aluminum upgrade,  is this even worth at this point or is it only necessary to buy one the spec'd models. Also threes alot of models ive read on and newer ones ive read on like TA07 TA06 ect,  ? I defiantly want the better car in the end or the car that can do more. I already have a tt02 STI NBR in its stock form. It looks good but i really don't know much about them,t I want to start a fresh car build kit and want somewhere to start that I dont have to eventually move on from since its so limited on what the car can do. Should I stick with the tt02's, or are there way better options to look at and consider? Thank you, sorry if my post sounds dumb im just in a stump on what to buy.

 

 

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All Tamiya manuals are excellent so you shouldn't have too many problems with any Tamiya kit, but some models are harder to build than others.

The TT02 is a great kit to start with as they go together really nicely and there isn't anything too fiddly or difficult. They also have a heap of hopups available so you can keep upgrading them. However as the entry level kit they are somewhat limited, there is a good thread in the racing section about the limitations so have a read of that. They are an excellent chassis though for bashing as they're cheap and durable,  and people have made them into 100mph cars with the right modifications. Its probably sensible to start with a TT02 as a first build.

The next level up are tye TA07 or TB05. These are the club racers and have a lot more adjustability and are better materials. The TB05 is probably better for bashing being shaft shaft drive but who knows, there is always debate aboit belt vs shaft. These also come as a chassis kit, so no tyres, body, motor, ESC etc, its just the chassis.  The Pro versions of both need a few hopups, the R version of the TA07 is out and that doesn't need anything.  The MS version is actually  in a different league.  They are a more challenging build and while you could do one first time, its probably better as a second kit.

TRF cars (TRF419, TB EVO 7 and TA07MS) are the top level chassis and only suited to racing. They use carbon fibre and aluminium and while amazing cars aren't really suited to running in the street or unprepared carparks. TamiyaUSA are selling thr TRF419 on runout at the noment, but they are still USD325 - USD375 for the chassis kit.

I would count the XV01 as more like the TA or TB series, but don't have one so can't really comment on those.

So really, what are yoy planning to do with it, and how many will you end up getting. Personally I would get a TT02 kit to start, and then look at the TA or TB car for something better as the second build, but if you only want to buy one and just buy body shells for it then ,aybe its best to jump in the deep end and get a TB05 or TA07 to start. It will be tricky but possible to build as a first kit.

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40 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Thank you so much Jonathon that was a great read to get me to understand things a little more. I was looking at a TA07 Pro chassis aswell.

I plan to mainly drive around in the streets in front of my house honestly, might see a track eventually maybe race, not a plan to race  but i would like my options to be open if I really got into it, but i definitely want to build a nice little car or a few. currently I have 2 cars, Armma Kraton , stock tt02 STI NBR, and will buy the Arrma limitless, so that will put me at 3, and I think I will want to stay within a maximum of 5-6  cars, so I have room for 2-3 more cars.

Is it worth hoping up the tt02s alot,? Ive seen the Eagle racing chassis kits on ebay for around 200 and the Yeah racing aluminum conversion kits for around 180 or so aswell, figured if i build another tt02 to just go for the chassis would be the better buy and buy a build kit for the shell / wheels and extra parts ect. This is the Chassis kit Ive eyed and the conversion kit i was talking about, seems like alot of money to put into it if its not worth it

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/TT02-RV2-KIT-BK-TT02-GRT-Racing-Chassis-V2/253482284793?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminium-Conversion-Kit-For-Tamiya-TT02-CK-TT02BU/192948641142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Is it worth it to spend money doing either of those, maybe on just one of the tt02s or just keeping those simple with the minor needed upgrades , and getting a ta07 aswell later on, or just going with something better like a Ta07 Pro or the superiors models of the TA07, and maybe spending more money on hoping up something thats more worth it  and keeping the TT02s simple whit the minor upgrades to keep them running good for bashing around the house, also how compatible are parts / especially the wheels and body, will my tt02 body or wheels fit on a TA07 or other models , I know some of them are interchangeable but not sure.  Thanks again. I think i will plan atleast to start with one simple tt02 kit, then look at a Ta07 possibly.

 

40 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

 

 

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Not sure how I butchered the above post, wasnt able to change it, but my comment is in the quote under Johnathon

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Welcome to TC. 

If you had built IKEA furniture and scale model kits, etc, you should be fine with Tamiya kits.  I'm into off-road, so I always thought XV01 Rally would be fun.  With the motor in the nose, it drives more like a real 1:1 car.  

Aluminum parts look good, but they don't flex.  Obviously, some parts like arms are better if they are rigid.  But there is no free lunch: rigid parts are easier to break than plastic parts.  Things have gotten better, way back in the past they didn't fit well either...(most fit well now).  Replacing parts with aluminum doesn't make things inherently better.  I don't think I'd win any rally championship, even if I put a Subaru Turbo engine in my 2004 Forester.  It be better to just buy 2019 WRX STi.  

Instead of spending $400 on the kit + upgrade, I'd just go with something like TA07.  Unless, of course, you want to start off with something less tricky to build...  

 

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Get a JIS screw driver. Tamiya screws looks Philips, but they aren’t. 

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Thank you for the tips and advice guys, I think I will start with another simple tt02 model to get some practice and fun out of it, So i will probably buy a tt02 one of the suabru kits, maybe the WRC inspired one for 135$, any small upgrades I should do on this car while im building it, I dont mind spending a few extra bucks, I know i need bearings forsure, anyone have a build thread they can link me to or just a small parts list, anything to help.

So i have been convinced on the TA07 Pro model from what you guys said so far and what I've read on them so far, and well i pulled the trigger on this kit brand new for 235$ total price including all those hop ups in the other picture, i  added them up to be around 130$worth aswekk, did I make out pretty good on that deal for that?  

So what body shell fits this car? does the tt02 body fit it? do I need to get a TA05 or TA06 body shell, any other models I cant seem to find a list?

Also I want to be prepared for this, do these kits include all the Oil, greases, and stuff I need, or do I need to buy some of that separate,. Ive been looking into the tools part, Im just not to familiar with the fluids needed like diff oil, shock oils ect. Thank you again guys. 

TA07 Parts.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

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Welcome! A few general thoughts...

1. Whatever you get for your first kit, build it completely stock first, exactly according to the (excellent and easy-to-follow) manual. That way, you'll have a baseline to work from; you'll know how everything is supposed to go together, and when you take it apart to add hop-up parts, it will make more sense.

2. There is exactly one reason, and one reason only, to add aluminum or carbon fiber parts to an RC car chassis: because you like the way they look. Functionally, they make no difference at all.

3. The best hop-up you can get is extra batteries, for more driving practice. I usually tell people to not even consider any modifications on their car until they've completely worn out at least two sets of tires. Drive, drive, and drive some more. It's how you get good.

Good luck!

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Random thoughts:

  • Get a basic TT02 with some Yeah Racing ball bearings and "Shock Gear" dampers for your average street bashing and dirt rallying.  You can build the TT02 long/short wheelbase, high/low ground clearance, and wide/narrow width depending what shell you want to throw on it.  The TA/TB are great club racing cars; the TRF cars are great for club racing but also worthy of national championships or worlds.  It would be a shame to spend a lot of money on a hopped up TA/TB or TRF, and then drive it in the street or in the dirt.  The TT02 is perfect for a lot of homebrew modifications, too.
  • I agree and disagree with @markbt73 at the same time about aluminum and carbon fiber.  Selective use of these parts can make a difference in a track setting, but for general playing around they don't make much difference at all.
  • It's good advice to make sure you have a JIS-type screwdriver to mate with Tamiya's screws, but beyond that there's no shame in some budget tools such as hex drivers and wrenches.  Nothing wrong with MIP or Hudy, but I can't remember anyone posting about rounding off their Dynamite, Turnigy, or Integy tools either.  For casual use the budget stuff seems fine.
  • Contrary to what Tamiya's manuals usually state, don't bother with lubricating the joint cups, dogbones, axle stubs, or steering parts with grease.  The grease just collects dirt and becomes an abrasive that wears the parts out more quickly.  Run the parts dry, or consider a dry PTFE / Teflon film on them.  You can grease the gearbox and diff internals lightly with the included ceramic grease and be done with it.

If you're targeting the Impreza '99 TT02 kit, that's a classic Subaru!

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Ok, yes. If you're already using your car to 99% of its capacity, then a little extra rigidity can help you get that 1%. Also, for a flat-chassis car, like the old pan cars, carbon fiber is by far the superior choice. But for general driving around, you want a car that, like the old nail polish commercial says, "bounces back instead of breaking."

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For bashing I would highly recommend some sort of swing shaft front drive shafts since you are likely to apply throttle while you are at a steering lock. Ball bearings are an absolute must as well if it doesn't come with them, Tamiya ones are better quality but more expensive, for bashing you just wanna have a nice greasing on them, oil has less friction but is much more likely to attract dirt or less durable. Other than that I wouldn't get any hop ups before running the car.

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That was a great buy, the TA07 Pro with those hopups. Do you have the rest of the aluminium suspension blocks? They are the most important hop up for that car, you need 2 sets of the split ones like shown in the picture, and 2 of the long ones. Before I got those I had to shim my TA07, since having those there is no play, play doesn't develop (I have been known to hit things) and the suspension movement is nice and smooth and precise. I have the servo mount and carbon shock towers too. The stock shock towers are pretty flexible so the carbon are a good upgrade. Some say the servo mount is really important, I haven't noticed much difference tbh but got it cheap. The other thing you may want are the stiffeners, I have the carbon reinforced K parts and the carbon fibre stiffeners, as well as the centre stiffener.  The stiffeners made a big difference, i wouldn't bother with the carbon reinforced plastic ones, just buy the carbon fibre ones.

As for the TT02, I wouldn't spend much on it. I have a TT02D and TT02B and have kept them stock other than bearings. They are great for what they are, but don't spend any money on them. Replace bits that wear out with hopups, or if you find a weak spot then upgrade it. The soft bendy plastics really add to the durability. 

Avoid that Yeah Racing upgrade set, i'm not sure how its an upgrade. The Eagle Racing chassis kit looks good but for the money you're better of buying a better car to begin with.

Any 190mm body should fit the TA07 and TT02. The standard wheelbase is 257mm but there are ways to shorten it with spacers or by flipping the arms. The body mounting holes could be different though. My TA07 has the body posts on the bumper but the TT02D has them further back.

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8 hours ago, Butler said:

Get a JIS screw driver. Tamiya screws looks Philips, but they aren’t. 

Wow...I've loved Tamiya's since 1980 and I never knew that. :o I just bought a set off Amazon just now...lol.

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You will see some differences of opinions among drivers.  

If everybody is the same the world would be a terribly boring place.  Take everything under advisement and use the info you see fit.  

Tamiya instructions tend to make you build stiff suspension when it comes to off road cars.  For something like TA07, they would assume you are an experienced builder, and not give you specific instruction on oil settings.  It's up to you.  For on-road shocks, I hardly use anything more than 3 oils they give you in "soft oil set."  It has #200, #300, #400 oils, and that should be a good starting point.  Even on off-road shocks, I have never used "hard" set (#800, #900, #1000).  Unless of course, you want to put in the diffs... for sealed diffs, you'd want the hard set.  But many people use other brand stuff too.  

Just enjoy it.  No need to worship the vehicle; build it, drive it, bash it, experiment with it, break it, fix it, and get good at everything.  Think of it as a tool to sharpen "you" as a builder and a driver.  

Watch the tires carefully.  The shocks are there to reduce the rebound.  But it should not hinder the spring movement too much.  If you have sat down on an old style spring mattress and remember how bouncy it was?  That's like having no shocks.  Aim for a single bounce after a bump.  From there, you can go softer to allow more responsive suspension, or go stiff like memory foam bed, depending on your preference.  But not too stiff as to have the car bounce on the rubber tire rather than suspension.  

 

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Oh yeah, you asked about oils. The kit comes with 400cst for the shocks, and 900cst for the diffs.

Advice i received was pick a brand and stick to it as they should be consistent within a brand, but not necessarily between brands. I went with Losi as I was able to buy a 6 pack with 17.5wt to 42.5wt in 5wt imcrements for a good price. Then i bought the set in between as well, so i have 17.5wt to 45wt in 2.5wt increments. This has been surprisingly useful, but then I have 3 10th buggies, 3 onroad racers and an 8th nitro buggy which all need shocks built and adjusted.

I also have diff oils in 2k, 3k, 5k and 7k, 10k, 100k and 1m. I also need some more of those in between the 10k and 100k. The low weights are good for offroad and rear diffs onroad, the higher numbers are for centre diffs and the 1m i use in my TA07 front diff. You have a spool so won't need the 1m weight, but i have 2 built for the rear with 2k and 3k which makes it easy to swap out.

Really, just use the kit supplied diff oil or get say 2k or 3k diff oil for the rear. It is useful to have a range of shock oils, so see if you can find a set with a few included.

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Again thanks everyone, huge help appetite it very much. Makes this alot more enjoyable then having to stress on what to buy. 

 

Do you have an part numbers on them Jon, or any other recommended  basic ones for the TA07 to get while im at it, tried looking for most you'rs not sure if im getting all the right ones?, no worries if not i know its not a quick task to gather them, so after getting a tt02 and now the TA07, what motor/ motor sizes would you recommend in either chassis, and what esc system would you guys run / recommend / good brands to look at. as well as servos I planned to buy a med to high grade sanwa controller soon also.

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Oils these are the sets I bought, they are from a local supplier but ebay will have them.

https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74019-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-17-5-22-5-27-5-32-5-37-5-42-5wt/

https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74020-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-20-25-30-35-40-45wt/

Carbon Stiffeners - 54788 and 54789 and 54755

This is the bible for the suspension mounts https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html

Its written by Qatmix who's on this forum.  I don't know which ones you need, it depends on track width and toe etc, I just bough the aluminium versions of the ones the kit came with.  Examples are 54064 for the long one and 54171 for the split ones.  There are some new ones with inserts but I know nothing about them, look at 54881 for an example, they look good.

The kit also comes with plastic wheel hexes, I just bought cheap Yeah Racing aluminium ones.  They clamp on so they don't come off when you take the wheel off. Tamiya ones are 3 times the price

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-alloy-wheel-washer-thick-touring-drift-crawler-wa016bu-p-27207.html?cPath=595_744_1857

I also got 54706 which is the aluminium counter pulley, its cheap and I didn't like the kit one which was 2 bits of plastic glued together.

I would swap to 64p or 48p gears instead of the mod 0.6.  Mod .6 gears aren't very common so they can be hard to find, but 48p or 64p are everywhere.  I run 48p as I run those in my offroad cars too so I can mix and match pinions.  What gear ratio you go for depends on the motor you run.  I run 21.5T with the ESC in blinky mode so gear around 3.6 - 3.8 FDR.  FDR is spur/pinion x internal ratio (internal ratio on the TA07 is 2.15 from memory).  So a 64 tooth spur and 34 tooth pinion will give 64/34 x 2.15 = 4.05 as an example.

As for motor choice, any 540 or 3650 (they are the same thing) size will fit.  In my experience there isn't much speed difference (especially on a track with corners) between a low or high turn motor if they're geared properly.  21.5T is a common racing class so that could be a good option, or 13.5T or 17.5T are also reasonably common.  For running in the street a 13.5T will be a lot of fun and you shouldn't find it too slow after a while.

Motor and ESC brands, there are a lot.  I would get a sensored one.  Hobbywing is always safe and no one will say anything bad about them.  I have a few different brands, SkyRC TS120 is my current preferred as its pretty cheap for what it does and they seem to be reliable.  RCMart does them for USD68 delivered.  Look at Hobbyking, their Trackstar stuff is ok, I ran the 80a Turbo ESC for a couple of seasons before they died.  If you have the budget then look at Tekin, Orion, Maclan, Orca etc.  They are really nice units but expensive.  Any that say "Stock Spec" or similar are designed for stock racing and will be in blinky mode, this means no electronic timing from the ESC.  I would get a programmable one which can go into blinky mode but you can also play around with.  The Stock Spec are cheaper but will limit you for running in the street.  Boost and turbo are fun.

I like the Surpass V4S motor too, its cheap and fast and you can get them off ebay or Banggood or Aliexpress.  Otherwise any of the above brand motors are good.

Servos - I like Savox for a good bang for buck servo.  Check out Protek as well, or PowerHD which get good reviews, there are a lot of brands out there.  I have found that cheap ones don't perform like they claim to though, you really do get what you pay for.  A low profile servo is good in the TA07 as space can get tight.  Look for around 8kg - 12kg torque and anything below .12sec transit time.

If you aren't running lipo already then you should to get the most out the TA07.  Also, a programmable ESC is a waste without a decent lipo that can provide the power it needs.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Oils these are the sets I bought, they are from a local supplier but ebay will have them.

 

 

 

Hey Jon, definitely alot for me to take in at once haha, but im getting the hang of it, So do I need two sets of the 54172, and two sets of the suspension mount( the single long bar). Also how do I go about swapping the gear, got any part number to look at? Thanks again,  

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1 hour ago, BoraBora said:

Hey Jon, definitely alot for me to take in at once haha, but im getting the hang of it, So do I need two sets of the 54172, and two sets of the suspension mount( the single long bar). Also how do I go about swapping the gear, got any part number to look at? Thanks again,  

Each end of the car uses one of the long ones and one pair of the separate ones, have a look at that RCRacer link above for pictures. Its really important to get the right ones though. I bought the same as the TA07 Pro came with in the kit, but it may make sense to buy the ones that the TA07R uses

  • Include 54070 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1B)
  • Include 54072 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1D)
  • Include 54172 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1A-1XA)
  • Include 54173 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1B-1XB)

That way you know that they will work properly.

As for gears, the TA07 comes with a spur gear mount that will take any standard fitment gear. One of the steps in the instructions is attaching the spur, so if you have bought a different one then just swap it out during that step. I have a 63T and 64T and pinions from 27T - 37T (they also fit all my other cars hence I have heaps). The gears are cheap, so I suggest buying a couple of spurs and 2 or 3 pinions which gives you a lot of ratios to olay with. Its a pretty simple job to swap spurs once you've done it before, its easy to do between races.

http://www.rcmart.com/competition-delrin-spur-gear-road-touring-drift-p-77091.html?cPath=1293_1299 is an example that will fit (I have Lee Speed brand which look identical, a lot of rc stuff is rebranded)

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-mg48035-aluminum-7075-hard-coated-motor-gearpinions-p-30142.html?cPath=1293_1306 i have a lot of these pinions and the only ones that have died have had stones get in there on my buggies, but they have been great otherwise.

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On 8/22/2019 at 12:09 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

Each end of the car uses one of the long ones and one pair of the separate ones, have a look at that RCRacer link above for pictures. Its really important to get the right ones though. I bought the same as the TA07 Pro came with in the kit, but it may make sense to buy the ones that the TA07R uses

  • Include 54070 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1B)
  • Include 54072 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1D)
  • Include 54172 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1A-1XA)
  • Include 54173 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1B-1XB)

That way you know that they will work properly.

As for gears, the TA07 comes with a spur gear mount that will take any standard fitment gear. One of the steps in the instructions is attaching the spur, so if you have bought a different one then just swap it out during that step. I have a 63T and 64T and pinions from 27T - 37T (they also fit all my other cars hence I have heaps). The gears are cheap, so I suggest buying a couple of spurs and 2 or 3 pinions which gives you a lot of ratios to olay with. Its a pretty simple job to swap spurs once you've done it before, its easy to do between races.

http://www.rcmart.com/competition-delrin-spur-gear-road-touring-drift-p-77091.html?cPath=1293_1299 is an example that will fit (I have Lee Speed brand which look identical, a lot of rc stuff is rebranded)

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-mg48035-aluminum-7075-hard-coated-motor-gearpinions-p-30142.html?cPath=1293_1306 i have a lot of these pinions and the only ones that have died have had stones get in there on my buggies, but they have been great otherwise.

Thanks again, what do you think of this motor setup or soemthing alike,,  or just the ESC to pare with another size motor. will this work in both the TT02 and the TA07, I think the motor is too big of a size , the ESC should work though right? thanks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-BLX100-Brushless-2-3S-ESC-3200kv-Motor-Granite-Senton-Big-Rock-Typhon-3S/123566940466?epid=2298512166&hash=item1cc529e132:g:az8AAOSw8YRc24X0:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!85383!US!-1

 

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2 hours ago, BoraBora said:

Thanks again, what do you think of this motor setup or soemthing alike,,  or just the ESC to pare with another size motor. will this work in both the TT02 and the TA07, I think the motor is too big of a size , the ESC should work though right? thanks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-BLX100-Brushless-2-3S-ESC-3200kv-Motor-Granite-Senton-Big-Rock-Typhon-3S/123566940466?epid=2298512166&hash=item1cc529e132:g:az8AAOSw8YRc24X0:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!85383!US!-1

 

That motor is a 3660 which is longer than a standard sized 540 or 3650 size. It would fit both TA07 (stick out the side a bit) or TT02 but it appears to be an unsensored combo so i would avoid it. Based on my experience here are some options I would consider

Cheap combo that works well (raced these for a couple of seasons) and get the program card

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-13-5t.html?___store=en_us

Hobbyking have a range of trackstar ESC and motors which are generally pretty good for the money, but won't get you to the front of the A Main.

Cheap but decent ESC, can run stock or mod, down to 3.5T motor. I run one in my 2wd buggy

http://www.rcmart.com/toro-ts120a-brushless-sensored-black-p-67556.html?cPath=1560_1021

I like SkyRC, I have one of their chargers too. Their motors are pretty good too. Look for the Ares for the decent lower price range motors,

Top end motor

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-trinity-x-factor-team-roar-spec-brushless-motor-13.5t-trirev1101t/p897641

Top end blinky/stock spec combo

https://www.amainhobbies.com/maclan-mmax-pico-100a-esc-mrr-team-edition-v2-brushless-motor-combo-13.5t-mcl3022/p739588

Top end all singing all dancing combo

https://www.amainhobbies.com/maclan-mmax-pro-160a-mrr-team-edition-v2-brushless-motor-combo-13.5t-mcl3046/p966523

I've worked on 13.5T but of course you could choose a different motor. 

For general running search for the Surpass V4S motors, I run one and its fantastic for the money but I buy from banggood and it opens in the r app not the browser so i can't share a link

I really like Orca gear too, I run the now discountinued B32 stock spec ESC and Blitreme motor in my 4wd buggy. Others at my club love them, the guy who beat me by a few seconds in the qualifiers at out last club day was running the blitreme v2 motor, I have the v1, clearly thats the difference! He went on to win the A Main, I came 6th i think...maybe not the motor

Team Orion is good but expensive and I know a lot who love Tekin everything and others love Fantom and R1 wurks motors.

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550/3660 size motors are a huge step up in power. You are looking at more than twice the power at the same Kv compared to a 540 size motor. 3200kV 550 size motor is actually about 6.5turns because larger motors are slower but produce far more torque. The arrma combo is probably about 750Watts on 2S and 1500W on 3S. A 13.5t/3000kv 540 motor is about 250W on 2S. 550 motors usually have 5mm output shafts (as opposed to 3.175mm) which means you need a different pinion gear too.

Anything north of about 300Watts becomes difficult to control in a 1/10 touring car so unless the aim is to make a tyre frying basher or do speed runs, stick to a 10.5turn or higher 540 motor. The silver can motors that come with TT02s are in the ballpark of 70-80Watts if I remember correctly. A 21.5turn brushless is actually a little more powerful than a silver can, but brushless motors typically rotate slower when making similar power to a brushed motor so they require different gearing (larger pinion / smaller spur) to be comparable.

That said, a 550 size motor and 1/8th scale ESC should fit in a TT02, but you might need a low profile size servo so the ESC can fit between the long motor and the servo. Not sure about the other chassis. You'd probably want the smallest final drive ratio possible (big pinion, small spur gear) to keep the torque down, preventing destroying the plastic drivetrain and allowing a reasonable top speed (>60kmh). This requires cutting the spur gear cover on the TT02 as it only fits smallish pinions from factory. With the stock gear ratio it'll just have insane tyre frying torque and only do 25kmh haha. 3S and 550 motor would probably require metal upgrades to the drivetrain.

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On 8/25/2019 at 1:53 AM, nbTMM said:

 

 

On 8/25/2019 at 1:25 AM, Jonathon Gillham said:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-SENTON-4x4-3s-Brushless-BLX100-ESC-Speed-Control-granite-10th-AR102668/392151771995?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

hey quick question for one of you guys, is this too powerfull for the tt02, or would it work, still trying to understand the motor / esc power, i think this runs the 550 motor, but can it still run a 540 motor without a problem? and I decided to sell the TA07pro and stick with tt02 for now since I was going to get myself into the TA07 another 2-300 to get it running so figured id sell it and stick with tt02 since i will be driving around the house for fun for now and I got the arrma limitless on the way so I am gonna spend the money on that. Thanks ahead.

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46 minutes ago, BoraBora said:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-SENTON-4x4-3s-Brushless-BLX100-ESC-Speed-Control-granite-10th-AR102668/392151771995?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

hey quick question for one of you guys, is this too powerfull for the tt02, or would it work, still trying to understand the motor / esc power, i think this runs the 550 motor, but can it still run a 540 motor without a problem? and I decided to sell the TA07pro and stick with tt02 for now since I was going to get myself into the TA07 another 2-300 to get it running so figured id sell it and stick with tt02 since i will be driving around the house for fun for now and I got the arrma limitless on the way so I am gonna spend the money on that. Thanks ahead.

Also this was the 2nd option ESC but it is double the price https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR390229

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