A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...

[junkmunki 846]

I have always been a fan of the old Kyosho RS200 and its stable mates the Peugeot 405 rally, Lancia Delta, and Citroen ZX raid. So much so, that at one point, i had more than 30 of them!

Most have now moved on to new homes, but i do still have about 15 of them. I also have enough NOS spares inc nos engines,to build 2 complete cars.

The chassis design is simple and although the original GS11 engines were a bit under powered, they worked really well.

[acprc 1443]

Do like these and have the 405 in my showroom and an RS200 with a NIB body to restore. Just need the Citroen for the full set. I am looking to use a Nikon Pajero body on one of these chassis though to create a bit of a hybrid.

[junkmunki 846]

19 minutes ago, acprc said:

Do like these and have the 405 in my showroom and an RS200 with a NIB body to restore. Just need the Citroen for the full set. I am looking to use a Nikon Pajero body on one of these chassis though to create a bit of a hybrid.

They did do a version of this chassis with a Pajero body, but along with the Citroen, they are the rarest of the body sets. I have a couple of the Lancia delta versions, and a NOS body set, but the chrome body parts for that are near impossible to find now. The RS200 and 405 kits were the most popular, and thus the most common to find now.

I'm glad i'm not the only one here that likes these though...

J

[DK308 219]

Had a 200RS. Was my first nitro. Did come with a different engine. It had a round cooling head rather than the squared. Ran well but the pull start was utter crap.

[acprc 1443]

10 hours ago, junkmunki said:

They did do a version of this chassis with a Pajero body, but along with the Citroen, they are the rarest of the body sets. I have a couple of the Lancia delta versions, and a NOS body set, but the chrome body parts for that are near impossible to find now. The RS200 and 405 kits were the most popular, and thus the most common to find now.

I'm glad i'm not the only one here that likes these though...

J

Yes, I have the Pajero body NIB

[junkmunki 846]

3 hours ago, acprc said:

Yes, I have the Pajero body NIB

A bit of body set envy here....🙄

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Hi All, I am rebuilding my RS200 which hasn’t run for probably over 25 years. I am currently de-gunking all the components. I have no idea whether the motor will run. The pull start was jammed so I undid the glow plug and pulled it and the motor did turn but the pull start didn’t recoil. 

I attempted to remove the pull start but couldn’t so I took off the c clip (the part that the manual says not to remove) and the recoil mechanism flew out. I don’t think it can be rebuilt (at least not by me).

I used to love playing with this machine it was great fun and I want to get it back up and running for the kids. 

So - I don’t mind spending a little bit of cash on it. Do you guys know if any of the currently available 1/10 IC engines might be a straight fit (or easily modifiable) such as the GS11 ? 

Or.. whether you can still buy the pull start mechanism or again whether another pull start would be a straight fit? 

Appreciate your comments and will upload some photos of the rebuild and the engine later on. 

[junkmunki 846]

2 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Hi All, I am rebuilding my RS200 which hasn’t run for probably over 25 years. I am currently de-gunking all the components. I have no idea whether the motor will run. The pull start was jammed so I undid the glow plug and pulled it and the motor did turn but the pull start didn’t recoil. 

I attempted to remove the pull start but couldn’t so I took off the c clip (the part that the manual says not to remove) and the recoil mechanism flew out. I don’t think it can be rebuilt (at least not by me).

I used to love playing with this machine it was great fun and I want to get it back up and running for the kids. 

So - I don’t mind spending a little bit of cash on it. Do you guys know if any of the currently available 1/10 IC engines might be a straight fit (or easily modifiable) such as the GS11 ? 

Or.. whether you can still buy the pull start mechanism or again whether another pull start would be a straight fit? 

Appreciate your comments and will upload some photos of the rebuild and the engine later on. 

Hi Andy

Welcome to the club.

The GS11 motor was originaly fitted to these chassis, so it will fit straight in. The engine mounting blocks are adjustable, so you can fit a slightly bigger motor if you wish, and most come with pull start anyway. The OS max 10 has the same dimensions as the original GS motors.

The pull starts are notoriously weak and getting an original one is rare. There are a lot of other spares for these cars out there though, so you may find one of you keep looking. I have quite a few NOS spares and a few cars that i have dismantled for spares, let me know what you are missing and i may be able to help, although i dont have a spare pull starter.

[acprc 1443]

Hi,

I use the OS 15CV-X and OS 12CV-X motors and they seem to work well in the chassis.

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Hi Guys thank you so much for the replies. This is great news! 

So I’ll keep my eyes out for a motor and crack on with the strip and rebuild and keep you updated. 

A few pics attached as you can see it’s seen better days. 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

I’ve just dug a little deeper.

Should the large toothed wheel here in the picture turn ? Because the pull start is turning freely (not like it is attached to anything) and this large wheel is seized solid. I’m thinking something is seized inside here and this engine is junk. 

Definitely now on the lookout. I have also seen how the engine mounts to the chassis to fit a new engine. 

[WillyChang 1814]

Biggest round thing in pic is "flywheel" and yep it's connected to the crankshaft and that will turnover the engine. Grab it & turn it by hand, it should turn in both directions with pullstart removed.

Pullstart will have a oneway bearing typically, this will gunk up & not engage after a while. If it does engage, it'll prevent you from turning over the engine backwards.

Old used engines gunk up from carbon & dried castor oil. Remove the glowplug and the backplate (often same as pullstarter), take off the carburettor is you can. Then fill the engine with penetrating oil at all 3 holes. Might take days or weeks to free the works; hopefully it's not rust that's seized it up. 

 

A sprung pullstart can be rewound & reassembled with patience. 

 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

7 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Biggest round thing in pic is "flywheel" and yep it's connected to the crankshaft and that will turnover the engine. Grab it & turn it by hand, it should turn in both directions with pullstart removed.

Pullstart will have a oneway bearing typically, this will gunk up & not engage after a while. If it does engage, it'll prevent you from turning over the engine backwards.

Old used engines gunk up from carbon & dried castor oil. Remove the glowplug and the backplate (often same as pullstarter), take off the carburettor is you can. Then fill the engine with penetrating oil at all 3 holes. Might take days or weeks to free the works; hopefully it's not rust that's seized it up. 

 

A sprung pullstart can be rewound & reassembled with patience. 

 

Thanks! I’ll certainly give that a go. I noticed the throttle lever also seized with the build up of gunked-up spilt fuel, and probably the rest of the engine is the same way. I’m afraid I wasn’t so careful when I was a young lad playing with it and so it has been neglected and then left to disintegrate, such a shame!  

As for the recoil , I’m on my 5th attempt! I’ll get there :-) 

[acprc 1443]

As mentioned it most likely that the engine is seized due to the oil that has dried in the engine. Another tip is remove the plastic parts and put the engine in the oven at 100 degrees C for 30 mins. Then  use flywheel plies to turn the flywheel. In my experience it can be difficult to recover the engine if the two internal bearings are badly gummed up. The engines are worth a little bit of time though as sometimes you can get lucky. Oh and take a look at my Mugen Sport Build thread for restoring the tank. Denture cleaner works wonders.

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Thank you so much for the tips, I will certainly keep you all posted as I progress :-) 

[junkmunki 846]

14 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

I’ve just dug a little deeper.

Should the large toothed wheel here in the picture turn ? Because the pull start is turning freely (not like it is attached to anything) and this large wheel is seized solid. I’m thinking something is seized inside here and this engine is junk. 

Definitely now on the lookout. I have also seen how the engine mounts to the chassis to fit a new engine. 

If the pull start is turning but the crank is not, the chances are, the one way bearing has collapsed. This is the but that grips when you pull the starter, but then free wheels when the engine is running. These are available and are easy to fit.

J

[junkmunki 846]

The other thing that is missing from that picture, is the clutch bell housing. The clutch is there, but you are missing the drive sprocket off of the end. Did you take it off, or is it missing?

J

[Andy Stewart1 18]

4 hours ago, junkmunki said:

The other thing that is missing from that picture, is the clutch bell housing. The clutch is there, but you are missing the drive sprocket off of the end. Did you take it off, or is it missing?

J

Hi yes I just pulled that off 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

4 hours ago, junkmunki said:

If the pull start is turning but the crank is not, the chances are, the one way bearing has collapsed. This is the but that grips when you pull the starter, but then free wheels when the engine is running. These are available and are easy to fit.

J

Yes - when I last used it I can remember I thought the pull start had snapped. But now I can see it hasn’t , I think you are absolutely spot on with your diagnosis there. The pull start just spins easily and the flywheel is absolutely stuck solid. 

Thanks again - looks like a bit strip operation going ahead , I have nothing to lose and might learn a bit along the way!

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Update.

took the one way bearing out. Gasket is disintegrated. It just fell out but the starter pin is just smooth. It just spins inside the bearing? How can I tell if it’s not working correctly? I’ve seen these are cheaply available so I shall buy a new one anyway. 

The engine does turn, when I gripped the flywheel with a strong pair of pliers and turned it very hard. So just need degunking. 

Removed exhaust manifold, taken one carb screw out but the other was very very tight and I’ve turned the screw head. I may have to drill it out to get the carb off? Easy to find a replacement screw? 

Is it a good idea to take the cylinder head off , I see 4 Allen bolts at the top? 

When you say to use penetrating oil do you mean such as WD40 or some 3 in 1 type of oil? 

Whats the best way to get the whole thing cleaned up I take it dropping it in the parts washer is not ok? (Or ok If I put it in the oven afterwards?) 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

I tried to assemble the pull start again, is it best to put the coil in the plastic housing first, then fit the wheel, or wrap it round the wheel. Either way it’s virtually impossible! :-)

[Andy Stewart1 18]

More photos 

 

 

[junkmunki 846]

10 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Update.

took the one way bearing out. Gasket is disintegrated. It just fell out but the starter pin is just smooth. It just spins inside the bearing? How can I tell if it’s not working correctly? I’ve seen these are cheaply available so I shall buy a new one anyway. 

The engine does turn, when I gripped the flywheel with a strong pair of pliers and turned it very hard. So just need degunking. 

Removed exhaust manifold, taken one carb screw out but the other was very very tight and I’ve turned the screw head. I may have to drill it out to get the carb off? Easy to find a replacement screw? 

Is it a good idea to take the cylinder head off , I see 4 Allen bolts at the top? 

When you say to use penetrating oil do you mean such as WD40 or some 3 in 1 type of oil? 

Whats the best way to get the whole thing cleaned up I take it dropping it in the parts washer is not ok? (Or ok If I put it in the oven afterwards?) 

I would definitely take the cylinder head off. Once you've done that, if you turn the engine so that the piston is right at the bottom of the barrel, you can unhook the conrod from the crank pin and slide the piston out of the top. Once you have done that, take the flywheel off the front of the crank, and using a copper or other soft mallet, you can knock the crank shaft out through the back of the block. What you are left with then, is the bare case with just the roller bearing in, much easier to clean up.

The end of the starter spindle is meant to be smooth, the bearing grips it in one direction only.

Gummed up nitro fuel is notoriously hard to remove, I have seen people sand blast the casing, but it gives a nasty finish. I have achieved quite good results by putting some of the less gummed parts I  the dish washer on a hot cycle. Dont tell the missus tho.....🙄

Its rewarding when you have finished and the engine looks and runs great though, so stick with it.

J

[Andy Stewart1 18]

May I just say thank you so much for the help and advice, there is no way I would attempt this without your helpful pointers so far. 

I’m going to drop it all in a bucket of TFR which I found to be pretty aggressive at removing the dirt on normal car parts. 

more updates will follow 

[WillyChang 1814]

In the past I've soaked crusty engine bits in a big can of acetone... the acetone turns orange so it must be dissolving something.

 

Would caustic oven cleaner spray hurt engine metals? At supermarket I see lots of oven cleaners, including one where you put your oven racks into the supplied plastic bag, spray on the cleaner and your chrome racks come clean of all burnt oil without scrubbing.