A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...

[Andy Stewart1 18]

1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

In the past I've soaked crusty engine bits in a big can of acetone... the acetone turns orange so it must be dissolving something.

 

Would caustic oven cleaner spray hurt engine metals? At supermarket I see lots of oven cleaners, including one where you put your oven racks into the supplied plastic bag, spray on the cleaner and your chrome racks come clean of all burnt oil without scrubbing. 

Great suggestion thanks! we will have some of that at home so definitely worth a shot! 

[acprc 1443]

2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

In the past I've soaked crusty engine bits in a big can of acetone... the acetone turns orange so it must be dissolving something.

 

Would caustic oven cleaner spray hurt engine metals? At supermarket I see lots of oven cleaners, including one where you put your oven racks into the supplied plastic bag, spray on the cleaner and your chrome racks come clean of all burnt oil without scrubbing. 

Oven cleaner will attack the alloy, I wouldnt use it

[Andy Stewart1 18]

13 hours ago, junkmunki said:

I would definitely take the cylinder head off. Once you've done that, if you turn the engine so that the piston is right at the bottom of the barrel, you can unhook the conrod from the crank pin and slide the piston out 

I cannot get the conrod off the crank is there a particular way to do it?. I just tried to  literally pull it off, wouldn’t budge. 

[junkmunki 846]

28 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

I cannot get the conrod off the crank is there a particular way to do it?. I just tried to  literally pull it off, wouldn’t budge. 

I may have misled you a bit, i forgot to mention that you have to take the cylinder liner out of the block in order to get enough side to side movement on the con rod. Sorry about that.  The process is straight forward enough. Once the head is off, you will see the top of the cylinder insert. When the piston is right down, put the end of a flat screwdriver into the exhaust port and lift the liner upward. Dont try and lever it as this may crack the block, but rather hold the block and lift the end of the screwdriver. Once the top of the liner is exposed above the top of the block, use some plumbers grips ( or some other type of swan neck pliers with soft jaws) to twist and pull the liner out. The conrod will come straight off of the crank, as at this point the piston can move from side to side. This will also aid you in cleaning everything. the liner just pushes back in after, making sure to line the exaust port up.

Ive attached a bit of inspiration for you, a before and after shot of a couple of my engines.

Keep at it.

J

 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Many thanks I’ll give this a go tomorrow. 

The pull start is still alluding me. I wonder if a generic one could be bodged to fit. 

[WillyChang 1814]

5 hours ago, acprc said:

Oven cleaner will attack the alloy, I wouldnt use it

True that... oven cleaner ain't safe got aluminium, there's probably some of that in the alloy somewhere.

 

2 hours ago, junkmunki said:

When the piston is right down, put the end of a flat screwdriver into the exhaust port and lift the liner upward. Dont try and lever it as this may crack the block, but rather hold the block and lift the end of the screwdriver. Once the top of the liner is exposed above the top of the block, use some plumbers grips ( or some other type of swan neck pliers with soft jaws) to twist and pull the liner out. The conrod will come straight off of the crank, as at this point the piston can move from side to side.

oooh don't get hard tools near the liner/piston, not unless you're treating it as junk & got a new one in hand already to replace with. Liner is often gunked stuck.

I usually get a cotton rag, with piston lowered below the ports stuff a corner of rag into a port. Then turn crank to lift piston - if you're lucky the liner will follow up.

btw there are often shims between head button & liner. Don't lose/damage these shims - they adjust compression. 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Thanks for the advices, I’ll try and get that out tonight. 

Look what I did! It was a two-man operation , I got a work friend to help! First attempt!! :-) woo hoo! 

 

[WillyChang 1814]

45 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Thanks for the advices, I’ll try and get that out tonight. 

Look what I did! It was a two-man operation , I got a work friend to help! First attempt!! :-) woo hoo! 

 

well it's back together!  

bad news... looks a bit floppy. Should be a tiny bit of spring tension to hold the T-bar taut against the case when fully retracted. Maybe just give the rope 1 more wind around the reel since you can access it all now. No need to disassemble.

[Collin 1956]

This pull starters cost me some nerves years ago. But once you know the little tricks, its quiet easy to put em together. I cant find it anymore but there was a video on youtube from a young boy explaining how to and it was magic how easy he did it.

[Andy Stewart1 18]

2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

well it's back together!  

bad news... looks a bit floppy. Should be a tiny bit of spring tension to hold the T-bar taut against the case when fully retracted. Maybe just give the rope 1 more wind around the reel since you can access it all now. No need to disassemble.

You’re right , and I will get that extra wind but I had destroyed the c clip taking it apart and I don’t have it with me so I was being a bit cautious until I get home and fit a new one. 

For sure I remember how weak the pull start seemed and as I wrote earlier this is why it got shelved all those years ago. What had happened is the coil had snapped where it attaches to the dolly. 

I also remember this engine seemed to need to be started every 5 minutes for various reasons so im going to be extra careful when putting back together

[Andy Stewart1 18]

1 hour ago, Collin said:

This pull starters cost me some nerves years ago. But once you know the little tricks, its quiet easy to put em together. I cant find it anymore but there was a video on youtube from a young boy explaining how to and it was magic how easy he did it.

Oh boy I wish I could see that video. Definitely had fun trying to get it back together. 

Surely this can’t be the only pull start that will fit this engine, isn’t there another type with the same diameter shaft that could be made to fit somehow. 

Answers on a postcard! 

I have found the local model shops to be particularly unhelpful. 

The industry seems to be a shadow of its former self which is a crying shame. This is a great hobby for a kid growing up rather than stuck inside playing play station all day. 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

There is a good you tube video of a guy restoring an RS200. Looked great in the end and I learnt quite a bit about the advanced drive train and braking system. 

But one thing annoyed me, after all the hard work cleaning, although he had cleaned up the wheels the best he could they still looked faded and let it down a bit. 

I just thought , do you think just a quick coat of primer and a rattle can Matt finish such as you find at Halfords would bring these up and provide a lasting finish?  

[WillyChang 1814]

Videogames & VCRs killed the RC hobby! Greenies & dirt/oil/muckphobic modern kiddies killed Nitro! Dirty smelly polluting toys spewing noxious gases - HOW DARE YOU!!!

Dream on, there's no standardisation back then (nor now) for nitros. Different companies had different ways of attaching their pullstart to engine - different shaft, different backplate, different sizes & dimensions.

The mounting ears on the side, that's a throwback to airplane application. The actual position of those ears & their holes vs front bearing & crankshaft isn't standardised either. Buy a different engine you usually need different mounting blocks. If you had a common engine then car maker might make suitable mounts; if not they'd give blanks that you have to drill & tap the holes yourself.

Crankshaft output... there's different types too. Aircraft used a propellor so cranks had a thread for screw/nut against a knurled backing plate to drive the prop... car users chopped off the threading to give a blunt knob; clutch would clamp onto the round shaft. Then later clutches got bolted to a coned crankshaft outpost. And even later crankshafts had everything the clutch needed, just an E-clip to hold everything on. Mucho evolution but it really meant you'd be hard pressed to move a used engine to another different car.

Exhaust... there's "side" exhaust, "rear" exhaust... also harking back to airplane terminology.

 

But I like pullstarts. They're neat to have when the alternative is a Globee handheld electric bumpstarter that needs a car battery lugged along  

The 1/10 Kyosho I've still got has the original OS-10; didn't know the GS11 fitted. (The OS has a flap in the exhaust, for back pressure?)

heck I love pullstarts so much I bought Inferno DX when it came out just for the novelty of having a GS21 with a pullstart  it was great for just walking to the park only carrying a fuel bottle! (and glowstarter, and a tuning screwdriver, and...)

Ok when I raced 1/10 with OS12CVX it usually got started on a bumpstarter box, but it still had a pullstart... saved walking back to the pits to restart. 

By the time HPI Savage craze arrived... the S25 did come as a pullstart (for the SS pro geeks) but I soon ported & gasflowed that... and bolted on a Rotorstart instead. Ok I will admit... Rotorstart beats pullstart... long as its battery has juice.

Then it was Baja phase... yep the Fuellie 26 has a pullstart. One big mutha of a pullstart, and boy did that cause blisters.

 

TLDR... there used to be someone making long rods with oneway bearing, you'd stick that into a cordless drill. Take the pullstart off just leaving the backplate & shaft; you'd need a suitable car for that to work though.

[WillyChang 1814]

26 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

But one thing annoyed me, after all the hard work cleaning, although he had cleaned up the wheels the best he could they still looked faded and let it down a bit. 

I just thought , do you think just a quick coat of primer and a rattle can Matt finish such as you find at Halfords would bring these up and provide a lasting finish?  

Are you talking of the "Peugeot 205gti" wheel?

Yeah they can all be painted pretty well. Get paint meant for touching up plastic car bumpers though, they got extra elastoplasticiserwhatevr flex additive.

[Andy Stewart1 18]

30 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

Videogames & VCRs killed the RC hobby! Greenies & dirt/oil/muckphobic modern kiddies killed Nitro! Dirty smelly polluting toys spewing noxious gases - HOW DARE YOU!!!

Dream on, there's no standardisation back then (nor now) for nitros. Different companies had different ways of attaching their pullstart to engine - different shaft, different backplate, different sizes & dimensions.

The mounting ears on the side, that's a throwback to airplane application. The actual position of those ears & their holes vs front bearing & crankshaft isn't standardised either. Buy a different engine you usually need different mounting blocks. If you had a common engine then car maker might make suitable mounts; if not they'd give blanks that you have to drill & tap the holes yourself.

Crankshaft output... there's different types too. Aircraft used a propellor so cranks had a thread for screw/nut against a knurled backing plate to drive the prop... car users chopped off the threading to give a blunt knob; clutch would clamp onto the round shaft. Then later clutches got bolted to a coned crankshaft outpost. And even later crankshafts had everything the clutch needed, just an E-clip to hold everything on. Mucho evolution but it really meant you'd be hard pressed to move a used engine to another different car.

Exhaust... there's "side" exhaust, "rear" exhaust... also harking back to airplane terminology.

 

But I like pullstarts. They're neat to have when the alternative is a Globee handheld electric bumpstarter that needs a car battery lugged along  

The 1/10 Kyosho I've still got has the original OS-10; didn't know the GS11 fitted. (The OS has a flap in the exhaust, for back pressure?)

heck I love pullstarts so much I bought Inferno DX when it came out just for the novelty of having a GS21 with a pullstart  it was great for just walking to the park only carrying a fuel bottle! (and glowstarter, and a tuning screwdriver, and...)

Ok when I raced 1/10 with OS12CVX it usually got started on a bumpstarter box, but it still had a pullstart... saved walking back to the pits to restart. 

By the time HPI Savage craze arrived... the S25 did come as a pullstart (for the SS pro geeks) but I soon ported & gasflowed that... and bolted on a Rotorstart instead. Ok I will admit... Rotorstart beats pullstart... long as its battery has juice.

Then it was Baja phase... yep the Fuellie 26 has a pullstart. One big mutha of a pullstart, and boy did that cause blisters.

 

TLDR... there used to be someone making long rods with oneway bearing, you'd stick that into a cordless drill. Take the pullstart off just leaving the backplate & shaft; you'd need a suitable car for that to work though.

Great post thank you! All true

thats a good little idea , cordless drill with a special UJ shaft to bend it 90 degrees hey presto. I’ll give it some thought.

[Andy Stewart1 18]

30 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

Are you talking of the "Peugeot 205gti" wheel?

Yeah they can all be painted pretty well. Get paint meant for touching up plastic car bumpers though, they got extra elastoplasticiserwhatevr flex additive.

No they are a flat dish. I know the GTi type they look hot. I have those on my optima

[WillyChang 1814]

eww, those conedish wheels would be my least liked design. Think I got mine off a Lazer ZX... at least they're yellow not white.

that RS200 sculpt looks oddly awkward too  

[junkmunki 846]

Those wheels were fitted to the RS200, the Peugeot 405 rallye and the Lancia Delta. The Citroen ZX and Mitsubishi Pajero, all had the spoke design wheels. The tyres were the same across all the models. They are very similar in design to the Optima wheels, but slightly wider.

The electric Sierra rs500 cosworth also used the spoke design wheels, but they were silver rather than flat white.

J

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Progress...the cotton rag trick worked (thanks for that, I would not have figured that out on my own no way) so now I have a bare crank case... except , that carb screw will not budge.

Am I alright to drill it out? 

The plastic lever on the carb.. is it supposed to move the air hole? If I can’t get this freed up are these carbs common across any other engines if I buy a new one?  Because it is stuck solid. 

Next im going stick it in the oven as advised and just leave it soaking in oil while I work on the rest of the car. 

piston con rod also pretty well jammed 

[Andy Stewart1 18]

More photos 1

How’s that on the gunk-ometer?

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Some more 

[junkmunki 846]

Nice progress. That is some pretty grim snot you have in the bearings...😬 

The carb will free up if left to soak in some cleaning solution. As far as drilling the screw out goes, the grub screw might not go all the way through the throat of the carb, rather it might sit into a simple in the side of the tube. If you drill right through, you will end up with the screw head interrupting the flow of air down the carb. Keep any drilling shallow.

I'm curious why you are putting the block in the oven now? There is nothing else really to come off the block, and the bearings can be flushed through while in place. 

J

[Andy Stewart1 18]

I just thought it would help loosen the gunk some more. 

So would you soak the block and the piston in some motor oil for a bit to get them loosened up? 

[junkmunki 846]

I would probably put them in something like a petrol bath the break down the gunk, then wash it through with parts cleaner. There's also no need to bath it in oil, you only need to inject a small amount oil into the bearings as you reassemble the engine, the nitro fuel has caster oil in it which lubricates as it runs.

My worry, is that if you put it in the oven, being a thin casting, it will warp out of shape.

J

[Andy Stewart1 18]

Thank you your advice is very much appreciated.