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junkmunki

A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...

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hi So the bearing arrived this morning put it straight in and it works lovely.

engines not starting though. Removed glow plug. It’s bone dry. 

When im priming using the fuel tank pumps, the 1 pump to the carb doesn’t seem to be pumping fuel as far as the carb itself 

the 2 pump Into the manifold just forces the tube off 

have I got the tubes hooked up the wrong way around , is the manifold one blocked or have I missed anything obvious 

 

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Bit hard to trace your plumbing routes. I assume the tank's sump feeds to carb; the exhaust pressure goes somewhere above fuel level? (I also like to route feed line as short as possible. Pressure line can be a little longer to smooth out pulses.)

Can't remember what those 2 plungers are for... does 1 prime, the other plug the line to cutoff? Either way I hate primers, don't need they & they're constant cause of air leaks.

Prime engine by plugging the exhaust tip with your finger then crank the engine. Should be enough pressure & vacuum to feed fuel to the carb if there's no air leaks.

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Head was down yesterday.

Not giving up.

Bought some pull start cord off eBay. Going to strip carb again check for blockages. Realized also I hadn’t cleaned out the feed port thingy in the manifold. I don’t understand what this does. It’s connected to the number 2 prime pump. The plunger one. If I bought a new generic tank it will have the right holes in the right places?

Something of note was that the glow plug was only glowing at the top, not at the ‘tip’. Normal? Probably worth buying a proper glow plug starter. 

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To stop a nitro engine... depends what you've got on you :)

  1. if you've got plug wrench, loosen the plug... possibly "kindest" way
  2. plug the exhaust... back pressure will choke the engine. It might also pump in too much fuel, hard to restart. Or you discover your exhaust leaks, doesn't keep enough or pressure to stop engine
  3. pinch the fuel line or upend the car/tank, starves the engine. But that also cuts the oil, so it might be running too lean for a short time.
  4. mechanically brake the flywheel. Preferably use your shoe leather not your finger. 

 

Umm carbie jets are usually soft brass, don't be clearing them with anything harder than brass. Steel definitely harder than brass. Compressed air or aerosol WD40 or brake cleaner or contact cleaner is handy; might even need carby cleaner or aggressive MAF cleaner spray.

 

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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

To stop a nitro engine... depends what you've got on you :)

  1. if you've got plug wrench, loosen the plug... possibly "kindest" way
  2. plug the exhaust... back pressure will choke the engine. It might also pump in too much fuel, hard to restart. Or you discover your exhaust leaks, doesn't keep enough or pressure to stop engine
  3. pinch the fuel line or upend the car/tank, starves the engine. But that also cuts the oil, so it might be running too lean for a short time.
  4. mechanically brake the flywheel. Preferably use your shoe leather not your finger. 

 

Umm carbie jets are usually soft brass, don't be clearing them with anything harder than brass. Steel definitely harder than brass. Compressed air or aerosol WD40 or brake cleaner or contact cleaner is handy; might even need carby cleaner or aggressive MAF cleaner spray.

 

Thanks man, it’s currently sitting in an eggcup of acetone , is that a no-no? 

New hoses and pull start start cord should arrive next week. No excuses then. 

There is a black ‘sheet’ is the only thing I can describe it as, in the fuel tank. Not sure if attached to anything. Is this to prevent fuel splashing about? 

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Maybe, there’s usually baffles in tank to stop sloshing. 

Acetone is ok, shouldn’t hurt anything in carb (except maybe dry out o-rings). But you’ll get more action from squirty pressure to blast out the fuel passages... :) 

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Still won’t start. :-(

next I’m ordering a proper glow plug starter and today I’m putting on some new fuel pipe that arrived yesterday and doesn’t look the right size. 

I’m not using an air filter I don’t think that should be a problem. 

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yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in :) 

 

Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR? 

When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.

Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.

Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression. 

 

Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?

Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.

 

 

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21 hours ago, WillyChang said:

yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in :) 

 

Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR? 

When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.

Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.

Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression. 

 

Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?

Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.

 

 

Hi yes I am pretty sure there is at least some compression there, if I hold my finger over the manifold I can feel air being expelled. I did do the oil method as well. 

So now onto the plug, when testing the plug out of the car it is not glowing hot all the way through and add to that the fact that the cylinder head has lost a bit of its coating in the cleaning process I think it could be retarding the current. These connections and croc clips are too old and corroded up and this is 30 year old tech. 

So I’m going to try the new glow starter when that arrives and then I am out of ideas. 

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22 hours ago, WillyChang said:

yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in :) 

 

Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR? 

When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.

Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.

Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression. 

 

Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?

Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.

 

 

Hmm I made a reply but it isn’t showing up 

I’m pretty sure there is compression I can feel it though the manifold and I did try with the oil as well. 

I really think it’s the glow plug starter this old thing is not really making the plug glow all the way through and that together with the fact that some of the surface has dulled on the cylinder head through cleaning and it probably isn’t generating enough heat. 

The new plug starter will be the last throw of the dice :-) 

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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

You are using a fresh brandnew plug, aren't you...

 

Yes brand new , the one you recommended , fits perfectly. 

One thing I forgot - the carb screw I wound all the way in then 1 &1/2 turns out 

BUT the idle screw - I have no clue if this affects anything for starting 

When throttle is shut I have just a small crack showing in the inlet - exactly as is required in the manual. 

Is there a way to ‘set’ the idle screw? 

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New glow plug starter, still zilch. 

So disappointed. 

New hoses check 

oil down the cylinder head check 

new fuel check

engine is pulsing air check 

 

I would even settle for a little start and stop lol 

Should I be getting some fuel on my finger holding it over the manifold ? Cos it is dry

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Yeah on a 'good' engine it's possible to suck in enough fuel into the combustion chamber to cause hydraulic lock... you'll need to remove the plug, flip engine over and pour the liquid out. 

I suspect there's no fuel getting thru... did you test if the carb is really unclogged?

Try blowing into the pressure hose (remove it from exhaust) and blow fuel from tank into carb inlet... it should spray out thru the Venturi at the throat. 

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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Yeah on a 'good' engine it's possible to suck in enough fuel into the combustion chamber to cause hydraulic lock... you'll need to remove the plug, flip engine over and pour the liquid out. 

I suspect there's no fuel getting thru... did you test if the carb is really unclogged?

Try blowing into the pressure hose (remove it from exhaust) and blow fuel from tank into carb inlet... it should spray out thru the Venturi at the throat. 

Thanks good idea! You are my guide! 

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SHE’S ALIVE!!!! 

1. Removed and blocked up the second prime pump as advised 

2. Tightened on the fuel line to the tank 

3. Found some old ear defenders in the garage attached to what looked like the correct diameter cord. Used it as a pull cord. Worked a treat and I think was the clincher. Could now ‘pull’ with a good stroke and a degree of confidence.

4. Blew through the fuel, tinkered with the carb settings, unscrewed the idle screw fully. 

She ran off at first and then I messed around a bit and could get it idling. I couldn’t understand why the gear was running round then stupidly realised that if i just lightly sat a screw driver on the pinion gear it would stop it and the clutch would do its work. I do remember it would never just idle without moving slightly, clutch likely needs slight adjustment. 

I also remember the black drops that used to drip out from the bottom of the pull start case lol. 

If I figure out how to post a video I’ll do one of it running. 

Thanks for your advices I couldn’t have done it without you guys help - mainly you WillyChang! 

I have been barred from playing with it for the rest of the day but can’t wait to get it built now!! 

Will post more pics once I get it fully going. 

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Well done for sticking with it and getting it going. Too many of us would have just

1 hour ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Well done for sticking with it and getting it going. Too many of us would have just given up, binned the old engine and bought a new one.

Just need to slow the idle down and it will be sweet.

J

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Thanks Junkmunki , I was very close to giving up I have to say, I was absolutely stoked when it fired up. 

Now the fun part, hopefully. Getting the mixture right will be the next challenge. 

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Yay! :D 

 

The cord is just parachute cord, anywhere from haberdashery or army surplus supply sells it. Or harvest from old Venetian blinds, plenty of those at the tip. 

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