A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...

[WillyChang]

22 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

 

the inner part of the bearing should spin, right? 

No the inner ring is the outer part of oneway bearing afaik, it's a cage to hold those cylindrical roller bearings. It won't spin, usually it's hex shaped to key into its surrounding housing.

Put the shaft in, the cylindrical rollers will grab the shaft oneway & not grab going the other way.

The outer big ring is just a housing IMHO, part of the pullstart. (Kyosho would buy in the oneway bearing from outside manufacturer. But they'd make the housing.)

 

Oneway bearings usually fail when they don't grab the shaft.

Have never seen them fail by seizing onto the shaft.  Not impossible but unlikely. 

[Andy Stewart1]

I’ve put the pull start into the bearing, the shaft just spins inside it, it doesn’t grip. 

New bearing is about 20 quid, but I bought the fuel now so... 

[Andy Stewart1]

Hi I didn’t see your reply before I posted that just now. 

I still don’t really understand now thing this should work but for sure if I hold the bearing on the pull start it isn’t giving any kind of resistance. 

So, would a new bearing cure that or is the problem on the shaft side? I’m wondering if there is a bit missing

The bearing is just being ‘placed’ into the housing I’m locating the pin on the con rod but it’s all just ‘loose’

so I’m carefully introducing the back plate, which straightens the bearing up vertically, and houses to a small indentation on the back plate being held in place by screws, but that’s it there’s nothing else. 

[WillyChang]

The bearing must grab the shaft it rides on; Either the rollers are jammed in their slots or the shaft has worn undersized. 

[Andy Stewart1]

I think I see more clearly now.

That bearing rotates at the engine speed over the shaft with the tiny rollers on the inside of the bearing (which I couldn’t see).

it did get a fair bit of use back in the day I can easily see how that would wear out.

so the bearing should not really just slide very easily over the shaft, it should be at least quite a snug fit 

decision time, spend 20 quid now on a gamble or spec a new motor 

[Andy Stewart1]

The more I look at this motor or should I say pull start assembly, the more I think this design is absolutely flawed. 

Maybe i could chuck a modern engine in it 

[WillyChang]

6 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

I think I see more clearly now.

That bearing rotates at the engine speed over the shaft with the tiny rollers on the inside of the bearing (which I couldn’t see).

it did get a fair bit of use back in the day I can easily see how that would wear out.

so the bearing should not really just slide very easily over the shaft, it should be at least quite a snug fit 

o wait... is the 'shaft' bit located on the pullstart's cord reel?

And that oneway bearing is connected to the engine crankshaft?

ok that'll be the less-common design then. Later designs have the shaft spinning with the crankshaft; bearing sits on the cord reel.

 

It shouldn't really be called a "bearing" as it doesn't "carry/bear" anything... it's more a oneway "clutch" like a ratchet or the freewheel hub on a bicycle.

Shouldnt be too much drag when it's freewheeling otherwise you'll sap the engine power & cause friction=heat and things wear out.

Its always a fight between how much you lube that oneway vs it gets too greasy to grip the shaft. The old design which sits oneway inside the engine (in the path of oily fuel mixture) gives less control over how much to lubricate. Later design with oneway outside engine is easier to degrease (by squirting in solvents) when it slips.

 

If it's been inside the crankcase, which was full of gunk... oneway probably still gunked up. Soak in aggressive solvent until every one of those roller pins is loose - they'll rattle around in their cage. If they won't shake under their own weight they're still gunked up; they need to freely move to cam into the shaft to grip.

[WillyChang]

 

[Andy Stewart1]

8 hours ago, WillyChang said:

 

Thank you so much for all of your guidance on this, absolutely no chance I’d have got this far without it! Exactly right the ‘bearing’ works as you describe. 

so... yes it is almost certainly very well gunked and I didn’t soak it in degreaser yet for fear of damaging it. I wonder if some heat would help this one? 

back in the day, we were running that gx-16 because the model shop told us what to use, we didn’t know anything about nitro engines, probably the oil content was too high and that’s why the thing seized up. It just got put away because the pull start was jammed. 

I got my old model box out and found a snapped end of a pull cord inside. I can not remember that happening or how it got fixed! 

[WillyChang]

I've never used heat to restore anything  don't see how it'll help anything. Only place it might help is for releasing anaerobic threadlock... I'd touch screw with a warned soldering iron. Otherwise heat only helps to kick along chemical reactions afaik, RCs don't have much of that.

 

That brown castor oil gunk that gets baked on is best dissolved with acetone. Lacquer thinners less aggressive, takes twice as long. Buy either from paint supplier.

 

Talking of which... that tube of Tamiya Threadlock is great for engine manifold screws  it's a Solvent glue (solvent evaporates leaving behind gooey compound) not anaerobic Loctite (cures "without oxygen" to hold the threads... BUT RELEASES WHEN HEATED). I shake head when nitro guys whine "don't know why my exhaust keeps falling off, I've loctited the screws!!"... 

Loctite also takes a while to cure, like Overnight...! Again you see parts falling off cars at the track and they complain "I've just replaced that & I used lots of Loctite!!" ... yeah matey, like just 5mins ago & you're running the car already.

For trackside repairs I threadlock with superglue or Tamiya threadlock - it's a temporary fix, grabs instantly & works well enough to complete days racing. My Loctite tube stays on workbench, I don't even bother carrying it to the track.

 

As for fuel... meh can't be too fussy on kiddy pocketmoney when these things were new. Cheaper fuel means more play for your buck.

My little Kyosho has the early OS engine... OS run on anything... I've even run OS on pure methanol with a dash (10%ish?) of castor oil, that's it. You don't even need nitromethane, it just makes it run/START easier & gives a crisper pickup. If just running around the park better pickup doesn't matter. 

 

More important than fuel... is preventing Air Leaks anywhere in the system.

Every interface on engine, I will RTV all the gaskets when reassembling. You cannot expect engine to stay in tune if you're losing vacuum anywhere.

Same with exhaust pressure to the fuel tank, any air leak loses all your pressure. Check the hose, check the tank lid seal... and most notorious is that silly push-plunger to "prime" the engine. That often leaks pressure (bad o-ring) and noobs usually flood their engines by overpriming... it's evil, you're better off removing & sealing the hole with a screw. Or swap to a tank with springloaded fliptop (I hate screwcap tanks).

The fuel supply line itself, pinholes can develop undetected so use good silicone hose. I like to hoseclamp every connection... a few loops of wire tie, or Dubro sells tiny springclips. 

 

When the whole system is airtight and engine has healthy compression, turn it over & it'll generate strong vacuum that draws in the fuel pretty quickly - don't need no priming gizmo.

 

[Andy Stewart1]

Cheers man! all really good info !

It sounds like you have a ton of experience. I did race my electric buggies. I’ll do a post on these when I get to them (my first buggy was a brand new vanquish then I acquired a second hand optima mid and then a yokomo dogfighter) but one of the things I do remember was always the **** screws no matter where, coming loose! Well that and a host of other ‘problems’ ! lol 

that box hasn’t been opened in a good while. It was quite amusing seeing the bits in there, each one would remind me of the journey. Such a great sport that I’m so glad I was part of. 

Anyway, I’ve used some red hermaseta (spell?) on the engine. That stuff is vintage as well, last used when I did the head gasket on my nova about 20 years ago.

For the tank, I was considering a new one. Anything will work I guess?  like: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303265017584

no idea where I’d get hose 

one question why is there a pipe from the exhaust manifold to tank is that for fuel pressure ?

[WillyChang]

31 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Anyway, I’ve used some red hermaseta (spell?) on the engine. That stuff is vintage as well, last used when I did the head gasket on my nova about 20 years ago.

thought Hermaseta was a saccharine type artificial sweetener  

meh, doesn't matter... if ever I'm asked to "help" get an engine started that I've no idea who reassembled & I suspect leaks air... I'd give it a few cranks (just to show it ain't starting) then I'll dig up a quart of thick oil and start dousing down every gasketted gap... until the oil has (temporarily!) sealed where's the airleak that's preventing the engine run starting. 

Engine starts, I'd give it a few revs, shut it down then tell the owner to strip it down, clean it up & reseal every gasket. Hand the soggy dripping mess back to the guy.  

 

40 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

 

For the tank, I was considering a new one. Anything will work I guess?  like: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303265017584

no idea where I’d get hose 

one question why is there a pipe from the exhaust manifold to tank is that for fuel pressure ?

Yeah that's the pipe that pressurises the tank to help the fuel reach the engine. 

Yours is just a hole in the manifold, yeah? (Not a nipple) That's got an odd few complications... eg you need a hose that's skinny enough to fit in hole without closing up inside. You're meant to cut tip at a slant, but the angle of the tube should face into the airstream; pointed the wrong way you might cause vacuum instead. 

 

Any "silicone fuel tube" will work, any good LHS should sell it off a bulk reel. (Just bear in mind above complication, might have to buy a few types to try.) 

Might as well add an inline fuel filter whilst you're at it.

 

Any tank will work too, just get whatever that fits. Kyosho often improves the tank with later models but I don't think this 1/10 chassis ever received a tank without screw cap.

 

48 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Cheers man! all really good info !

It sounds like you have a ton of experience. I did race my electric buggies. I’ll do a post on these when I get to them (my first buggy was a brand new vanquish then I acquired a second hand optima mid and then a yokomo dogfighter) but one of the things I do remember was always the **** screws no matter where, coming loose! Well that and a host of other ‘problems’ ! lol 

 

We've been racing these toys for going on 40yrs  to win any race your car first has to finish. Some ppl only know how to build light & fast race cars that only last 1 battery; I build race cars like for multi-hour enduros.

There's some tricks to small screws & I rarely even loctite anything, only a certain few specific areas. You may well be OVERtightening your screws... metal screws are elastic, the stretch holds the screw against its threads from loosening. But an overtightened screw stretched beyond its elastic point won't spring back, so you've lost its original ability to hold itself tight.

You should try find a mini torquewrench to play with... little M3 bolts barely need 6-10Nm. Once you get a feel for that low level of torque, you might realise you shouldn't even let the screwdriver handle touch your palm. Just held in fingertips is enough.

[Andy Stewart1]

Thank you again. I guess I could try and get a tank to fit. 

Had the bearing in some acetone. I can see the rollers they are silver, I can move them very slightly from side to side with a toothpick. Makes me think they are not stuck but maybe stuck inside yes or just worn. They do not protrude any, at least not to the naked eye. 

May have to take the plunge and buy a new one then I’ll know. 

Good tip with the oil to seal the engine lol

[Andy Stewart1]

Two days in the acetone. Not doing much. Just standing there staring at the bearing (That rhymes) and I wondered what happens if I pop that centre out? 

can they be stripped?  

[WillyChang]

Usually takes a few weeks soaking...  that baked on castor crud is pretty tough. It doesn't dissolve either, acetone (already harshest solvent) only just encourages it to maybe flake off a little easier.

 

Got a ultrasonic cleaner? 

Dont put solvent in the cleaner though. Fill cleaner with water. Put part & solvent into a sealed glass jar and put that in the water. Jar mush be sealed or else the ultrasonic will vaporise the solvent fast, can get explosive.

[Andy Stewart1]

5 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Usually takes a few weeks soaking...  that baked on castor crud is pretty tough. It doesn't dissolve either, acetone (already harshest solvent) only just encourages it to maybe flake off a little easier.

 

Got a ultrasonic cleaner? 

Dont put solvent in the cleaner though. Fill cleaner with water. Put part & solvent into a sealed glass jar and put that in the water. Jar mush be sealed or else the ultrasonic will vaporise the solvent fast, can get explosive.

Thanks, that’s a long time to wait for playtime  

i think they have an ultrasonic at work I’ll do a little asking around  

Does anyone know where I can get a decal sheet for a BMW E36? I even found the original supplier Frewer international in New Zealand but they are not interested. 

I want to repaint white and do the FINA livery but it’s the details I’m looking for such as lights and trim. 

[WillyChang]

Do you know what's it painted with? Some paints ain't gunna come off without a fight.

Frewer offloaded their old molds to someone else overseas a few years ago afaik.

Many of the old bodies didn't come with photorealistic light stickers, that's only a recent development last 10-15yrs only. The gun painters would airbrush their own headlight designs; me with no skills just pasted on chrome foil.

Got involved in the vinyl trade 12yrs ago, spent many an hour trying to draw up artwork for decals... then @Incredible_Serious sourced a whole stack of Frewer 6R4 shells so I drew up paintmasks & full decal set for the Computervision scheme. 

 

 

[Andy Stewart1]

1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

Do you know what's it painted with? Some paints ain't gunna come off without a fight.

Frewer offloaded their old molds to someone else overseas a few years ago afaik.

Many of the old bodies didn't come with photorealistic light stickers, that's only a recent development last 10-15yrs only. The gun painters would airbrush their own headlight designs; me with no skills just pasted on chrome foil.

Got involved in the vinyl trade 12yrs ago, spent many an hour trying to draw up artwork for decals... then @Incredible_Serious sourced a whole stack of Frewer 6R4 shells so I drew up paintmasks & full decal set for the Computervision scheme. 

 

 

That sounds hot! I’d love to get my hands on that! 

no idea about the paint, whatever they used for Lexan shells 30 yrs ago!  I’ll get it off don’t worry! 

so who’s the go to guy for decals these days then? 

By the way I kinda work in marketing and graphic design so I have the relevant software and contacts to get stuff printed, but how did you go with that did you create stuff from scratch?  

I did that for my real toy car (Vauxhall nova) I created some rally decals just from photos and a tape measure. Came out great. 

But lights/grills etc , much tougher, but still doable I guess. 

[WillyChang]

54 minutes ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

By the way I kinda work in marketing and graphic design so I have the relevant software and contacts to get stuff printed, but how did you go with that did you create stuff from scratch?  

yep I'm a perfectionist I'm afraid, and nothing's more perfect than pure vector artwork. Even the simplest sponsor logo could take an hour or three, each!

 

[Andy Stewart1]

20 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

yep I'm a perfectionist I'm afraid, and nothing's more perfect than pure vector artwork. Even the simplest sponsor logo could take an hour or three, each!

 

Kewl. For lights and so on, I think just taking photographic images and manipulating them to suit might be a decent option. 

I might just have a crack at it. I’ve got a couple of weeks to wait for my bearing. I figured what the heck. 

[Andy Stewart1]

What is your best tip for paint removal ?

is acetone too aggressive? 

[WillyChang]

14 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

What is your best tip for paint removal ?

is acetone too aggressive? 

Heck yeah!! Lexan will dissolve in acetone. Just the fumes alone will make lexan uncurl and flatten itself back into a sheet of jelly... (don't ask how I know)

 

Did u paint it yourself? Looks handbrushed.

30yrs ago Tamiya PS spray was just coming in, that is a hard acrylic enamel - pretty much nothing dissolves that once cured. Before that there were PC pots of paint which were more latex, they dried to a slightly rubbery texture. Other companies were similar - Pactra, MrColor, Parma etc

You can try methylated spirits as the strongest alcoholic solvent, it'll affect PC paint.  

(Only in recent years T gave us "Polycarbonate Body Cleaner", this solution is the only thing that actually works for PS... wet a rag with it & rub & rub & rub... & rub.  Also it comes in tiny bottle, ain't cheap.)

Some report using nitro fuel (yeah STALE fuel ok) or DOT3 brake fluid, but imho they can make lexan go cloudy. Others say Pactra ELO (Easy Lift Off?) or various graffiti cleaners but I've never tried those.

Don't use caustic alkali like oven cleaner or drain unblocker. Paint crumbles off, lexan looks clear.. then lexan fractures & crumbles too. 

[Andy Stewart1]

2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Did u paint it yourself? Looks handbrushed.

Yeh it was me, how can you tell!?

yeh not the best job. Definitely hand brushed, and probably almost certainly with Tamiya paint. 

Next job will be all white. Back then it was the masking that let me down. Not sure if there was a paint on mask available but I used masking tape as this was all funds would allow, but it ruined the job. Other than that even today I’m impressed how I got the lines so symmetrical. 

[WillyChang]

3 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Yeh it was me, how can you tell!?

Seen a lot similar. Did a few myself. 

Wouldn't be prepainted as they'd have gotten the Marlboro colours right way round  kiddies today wouldn't recognise what's Marlboro, Lucky Strike, 555 B&H nor JPS eh? So sad...!

3 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

yeh not the best job. Definitely hand brushed, and probably almost certainly with Tamiya paint. 

If you're certain you used Tamiya PC paint in the squat glass 23cc bottles you're in luck... I soak them in methylated spirits and after a while the paint goes wrinkly and you can start persuading it to fall off with a toothbrush. The spirits gets coloured too so something's dissolving but it never all just disappear.

Can't buy PC anymore today though.

 

3 hours ago, Andy Stewart1 said:

Next job will be all white. Back then it was the masking that let me down. Not sure if there was a paint on mask available but I used masking tape as this was all funds would allow, but it ruined the job. Other than that even today I’m impressed how I got the lines so symmetrical. 

Don't bother with Liquid Masking, it's more trouble than it's worth if you don't know what you're doing. Paint it too thin & it's impossible to peel clean. When you cut it with a blade you'll score the lexan, which then becomes weak points... (wanna hear about the Mini Cooper shell with different coloured fenders... that all broke off at first bump?  ) And that latex stinks like vomit or turned milk.

Might not be able to paint white if the red has dyed the lexan. Hard to say before you've stripped it all off. I mainly strip to repaint in same colour; for colour change I'd rather start painting a fresh shell.

[Andy Stewart1]

4 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Seen a lot similar. Did a few myself. 

Wouldn't be prepainted as they'd have gotten the Marlboro colours right way round  kiddies today wouldn't recognise what's Marlboro, Lucky Strike, 555 B&H nor JPS eh? So sad...!

lol Hahaha! True what has the world come to. 

You know what I only just realised about the Marlboro colours being back to front. But yeh that was supppsed to be a Marlboro job of course. 

Shame, I absolutely loved this body. So cool. So I will go for something new, see what I can find. I never really cared for the RS200 in metallic blue. The 405 in the OP’s picture looks more my cup of tea. Or a cosworth.