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Busdriver

Wild One

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As my Dynaheadish/Dynamog build is coming to an end, if that Nivarna exists!!!, I'm looking for my next project. I am not agreat fan of some of Mr T's buggies as to me they just dont look real, and thats my bag. Thats why I spent so much time and money changing the Dynahead. There are 2 "buggies" I do like, Sand Schorcher( my first and much missed) and Wild One. They both kind of fit my looking real criteria, as does rough rider just dont like it. So my question is not which one, as budget is tight , though Christmas is not far off, but what do I need to know about the Wild One. I'm thinking bearings, metal pinion, Sport/Torque tuned motor and a non box art paint job. What are its weaknesses/failings. What do I need to know??

 

Should add i'm looking at NIB Re Re not a resto job

Edited by Busdriver
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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

I'm thinking bearings, metal pinion, Sport/Torque tuned motor and a non box art paint job. What are its weaknesses/failings. What do I need to know??

That pretty much nails it for required items to start. I ran a Torque Tuned in mine, but the silvercan will suffice at first.

As far as weaknesses, the Wild One/FAV use the same basic diff design as the ORV cars/trucks, just in a different, fully plastic gearbox enclosure. Tamiya upgraded the halfshafts to dogbones just like the re-re Frog. I've had these diffs click and separate and skip teeth as they are common to do in many applications outside the Hot Shot series. Usually, once this happens, you can get by by adding very thin extra shim to one side of the diff. Its my recollection that Tamiya actually started adding a shim in the gearbox themselves somewhere during the original FAV production run, so it was a known problem. If it starts to click, try adding a bit more, just not too much as to cause binding. There's also the Oldfrogshot screw mod that will work as well.

Diff aside, the buggy is fairly durable when driven in context for its era. If its barrel rolled repeatedly or generally abused from ridiculously high jumps, the tub can start to crack. The FAV won't as its hard body is screwed to the tub adding strength, whereas the Wild One uses a lexan body devoid of this support. Honestly, its a great drive. The COG is quite low which makes is very stable and planted. It more weighty and less bouncy than a Frog. It can understeer a bit with much of the weight out back but it does jump very well with good balance. Just keep the jumps small. Its not meant to be winged over the typical huge jumps of today. It quite realistic and a good and interesting build being half tub and half cage (which neatly encloses the gearbox. I'm honestly surprised it wasn't more popular but then again it came out around the RC10 which shifted attention away from other buggies in the US at that time. I recommend one. Its not nearly the mess the re-re Blackfoot has appeared to be for some people.

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I'm well happy with mine stock out of the box. All I did out of the ordinary with mine was a HobbyWing 1060 ESC and a 3 cell Lipo to give it a bit more pep, once I'd ballraced it.

 

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Wanted to chime in as well, I love my Wild One.  I went to my local hobby store one back in April with plans to buy a Grasshopper and do crazy suspension mods in hopes of having a cool looking scale buggy that was fun to drive along different types of terrain.  I went as far as picking out the Grasshopper kit and a basket full of parts when I walked past the Wild One and thought.. hmm..   "Why haven't I ever purchased one of these?"  I put all of my assorted parts back and got the Wild One kit instead.  

I'm running it with a black can Sport Tuned motor on 2s lipo.  No gearbox issues to speak of.  As Saito2 mentioned, perhaps Tamiya sorted out the issue with later releases.  Driving is just plain fun.  Handles well.  With a lipo battery, understeer is reduced.  I don't go over any jumps, just run mostly on paved bike paths with occasional bumps which cause it to catch some mild air occasionally.  At that, it never gets out of line.

 

**This was in no way meant to offend any Grasshopper owners.  I ended up buying one later and did some minor upgrades to it as well.  I love it for what it is, but it doesn't come close to being as sooth and as fun to drive as my Wild One.

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Your list is good. Since you like scale looks, I would add a Knight Customs motor to cover the gear box. The Wild One/FAV look great from the front and sides, not so great from the back IMO.

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I’ve owned 4 WO’s and 2 FAV’s and the TC advice is always consistent.

Bearings

Steel pinion

Torque tuned motor

FAV upgrade the shocks to Wild One shocks.

Have fun 👍

I found the silver can too slow, but I do still use Nimh batteries, but I find the Torque tuned just right. 

 

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Just bought @Grumpy pants Wild one Re Re. I think I have enough bearings to retro fit any that arent there, and also I have a 15T steel pinion. I want to put either a Torque tuned or Sport tuned but the advice seems to be split? Torque tuned is generally cheaper. I have one in my TT02-T and it goes really well. I have a Sport Tuned in one of my Blitzers and so does that. Is one motor better suited to 4WD and the other to 2WD.They seem to have much the same spec? I must say I like the look of the Knight customs motor cover and exhaust. Maybe a chrismas pressie!!!

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Having received my Wild One thought Id try it out as it was. Quite impressed for a silver can. Think Ill run it for a bit as it is then after a few packs give it a quick service and check if there are bearings in the gearbox or not @Grumpy pants couldnt remember. Then will fit Sport tuned and steel 15T pinion for more fun. Only have one real bugbear and that is the battery connection:angry: Is there a mod that gets the battery lead into the battery compartment without hanging round the outside. It looks awful? I'm using standard 7.2v Nimh packs and XT60 connectors.

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29 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Having received my Wild One thought Id try it out as it was. Quite impressed for a silver can. Think Ill run it for a bit as it is then after a few packs give it a quick service and check if there are bearings in the gearbox or not @Grumpy pants couldnt remember. Then will fit Sport tuned and steel 15T pinion for more fun. Only have one real bugbear and that is the battery connection:angry: Is there a mod that gets the battery lead into the battery compartment without hanging round the outside. It looks awful? I'm using standard 7.2v Nimh packs and XT60 connectors.

Original car does not have the mouse hole out the side. 7.2V Racing Pack or Hump Pack fits in battery cavity and the plug tucks into the recess in the front edge - no wires routed outside, all hidden within the tub. 

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6 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Original car does not have the mouse hole out the side. 7.2V Racing Pack or Hump Pack fits in battery cavity and the plug tucks into the recess in the front edge - no wires routed outside, all hidden within the tub. 

Original side panels is best ;) and looks way better

You can pick up the original side panel with no cut out and it will fit straight on to your re-re chassis with no mods , and no ugly 'mouse hole' showing :)

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Will Subaru Brat wheels and tires fit? Are there any other options? I like the look of a slightly wider front wheel than stock but would like all 4 wheels to be similar!

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They will fit , you need to fit the 5 stud wheel disc to the axle , not the black cylinder style one . The fronts would look a bit heavy on a buggy , but you could try this awesome wheel creation  by SRB Bloke ;) and a tasty Scorcher too 

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=113058&id=32228

The front are modifed rear 915 tyres on Buggy Champ type front wheels , and you could then fit the Champ rear wheels with the 915 tyres - looks ace as you will agree

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Just purchased a wild one 

was looking to buy a FAV Shark off eBay but while it looked lovely I decided I wanted to make it personalised.

will order bearings

got a fake Torque Tuned coming from AliExpress just to see what it’s like (£10)

plus ordered the knight customs vw engine and exhaust (Rip off really for a v small 3D printed part) but as has been said, it will finish the back end nicely 

no stock anywhere at the moment so went for a non ESC version to get it in 2 weeks instead of 6 weeks

JJ

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If you are going to run it more than once a fortnight, buy a set of gearbox gears now, they will wear and slip, small price to pay for a very cool scale wheel standing machine

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On 9/29/2019 at 6:45 AM, Busdriver said:

Will Subaru Brat wheels and tires fit? Are there any other options? I like the look of a slightly wider front wheel than stock but would like all 4 wheels to be similar!

I’m pretty sure the rear wheels discs are in the box in red.

If not then I may have a spare pair.

FAV/ Rough Rider/Sand Scorcher and Ranger wheels will then all fit I believe. 

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11 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

I’m pretty sure the rear wheels discs are in the box in red.

If not then I may have a spare pair.

FAV/ Rough Rider/Sand Scorcher and Ranger wheels will then all fit I believe. 

Yes found them thanks. Just received set of Subaru wheels and tires. Only ordered one set of nuts and bolts so having to wait for another set. Anyhow deceided to deconstruct whole car and check for gearbox bearings, install Torque tuned Motor + 15T steel pinion and rebuild body in plastic, so no rush for the nuts!!!

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21 hours ago, Problemchild said:

plus ordered the knight customs vw engine and exhaust (Rip off really for a v small 3D printed part) but as has been said, it will finish the back end nicely 

Just done the same + above. Agree about the price. There is a real price differnce with Shapeways prices, Some items seem really good value whilst others!!!!, not their fault I presume, just supply and demand:angry:

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Oh well :(

j have my friend printing me a dash and fuel cell - those are free so it balances out I hope 

but with a few extra bits, all of a sudden the wild one is £200 :(

JJ

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Agree with Saito, I put a brushless setup on my FAV and whilst it was quick it wasn't exactly fun. Faster impacts cause more damage.....and the front end is not really made for quick cornering with that much power.

So I went to a HW 1060 and 23T Tamiya RZ (I think) motor. Not that you'll need to, but I put Wild One  dampers on each corner and that that is much much better,

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2 hours ago, Problemchild said:

Q - does the FAV driver (hard plastic) fit into the wild one (that driver is lexan)??

Not as stock , but I have modified one to fit into the Wild One . Most work is on the left arm to get it into the W/O side panel . I also modified the other arm and the driver base platform , and rear box to lower everything .

See here :-

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=132963&id=5280

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fab - i'll PM you with some Qs

I've ordered the guy anyway from wonderland models

i'm going all black with some other bits (i've also ordered the lights you have fitted)

JJ

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IMG_1518.JPG.98ca9079680e6990a3517bf30043bdae.JPGIMG_1513.JPG.9c60c0d95a369bb5177dcbdcc7a080d7.JPG

He fits quite well just with a bit of his bottom removed to slope him back a bit.

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