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The Twingo Lord

Lunchbox mod suggestions

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I will be moving soon, so I’ll have a better workspace, what are some essential mods to do? I already have aluminum body mounts, also, how do I stop the front wheels rubbing on the front bumper? Thanks!

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I'd strongly suggest the Team CRP front end conversion which eliminates the bump steer.

Combine that with some CVA shocks and a 3rd(5th) shock mod for the gearbox and you'll have a cracking little truck!

 

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Ampro engineering has an alternative to the 5th shock.. looks way easier to fit.

He also has a front end conversion for bump steer.

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3 hours ago, SuperJoeUK said:

Ampro engineering has an alternative to the 5th shock.. looks way easier to fit.

it is , and it works very well

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4 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

I'd strongly suggest the Team CRP front end conversion which eliminates the bump steer

I've got an LB with CRP front conversion , it works well , I've also made a conversion on another LB from a Kyosho Ultima front beam , it is easier to fit an is a better job and works very well . I've also fitted sway bars to both LB's

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1 hour ago, KEV THE REV said:

I've got an LB with CRP front conversion , it works well , I've also made a conversion on another LB from a Kyosho Ultima front beam , it is easier to fit an is a better job and works very well . I've also fitted sway bars to both LB's

How did you do the Ultima conversion?

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3 hours ago, The Twingo Lord said:

Mine is definitely a basher, and ampro doesn’t recommend the front end conversion for bashers, so the mods must be durable!

Yes , the AMpro kit is 3D printed , it is tough , but not recommended for extreme use , ie , jumps etc . The CRP parts are molded , not 3D printed but need adapting to work properly .The Ultima conversion is made from the original Kyosho parts so is tough , but not indesctructible , but then neither are any RC parts if they are pushed to extremes .

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If you've a 3d printer Thingiverse also has useful parts for the Lunch Box. I 3D printed my front suspension bits from a design there (search 'CW01')', its similar in concept to the ones mentioned here.  

Sure I've broken suspension arms... but I just reprint them... 

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The CRP parts are tough. My Midnight Pumpkin has taken a beating with no issues.

While you are upgrading the front end you should center the servo. You will have the same turning radius left and right, instead of a large circle one way and a tight circle the other. It's quick and easy.

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My honest opinion there is no sense going crazy upgrading the front suspension because no matter what you do to the rear even with the best method I show the fishing string mod the rear suspension never works good it's just a faulty design and the front always works much better than the rear so what's the point upgrading the front?

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8 minutes ago, shenlonco said:

My honest opinion there is no sense going crazy upgrading the front suspension because no matter what you do to the rear even with the best method I show the fishing string mod the rear suspension never works good it's just a faulty design and the front always works much better than the rear so what's the point upgrading the front?

You can go in reverse without the front end dipping to the ground and the tires rubbing the body.

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1 hour ago, Biz73 said:

You can go in reverse without the front end dipping to the ground and the tires rubbing the body.

I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through

it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up.

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12 hours ago, shenlonco said:

I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through

it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up.

You asked what was the point of upgrading, so I gave one example. You may not run in reverse, but some people do. The conversion doesn't make the front run worse than stock.

It may not be necessary, but there isn't anything wrong with converting a CW-01. To each their own.

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On 9/13/2019 at 4:27 AM, shenlonco said:

I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through

it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up.

I’d say the rear suspension works much better than the front. Especially with the Ampro brace. 

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My Lunchbox wheels are never on the ground, so I can't see the point in upgrading the front suspension!! :D

IMG_20191204_193841.thumb.jpg.72e6e9acabdb9365341abd71deab6389.jpg

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Physically they fit , although the MB tyres are slightly bigger in diameter and thinner in width , so bottoming out might be a problem with MB on LB and possibly catching on the front bumper on the turn (solveable) .

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Thanks @KEV THE REV

Just wanted to put some prolines on or something with a bit more grip.

Struggling to find tyres for the lunchbox, seems it's only the generic Chinese ones with adapter plates.

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Those spikes won't last one pack. Lol. 

Was hoping to find something like dirt hawgs. But obviously they are 2.2 so not a direct fit.

It belongs to my 8 year old boy, I've just squeezed a 3s lipo in it for him and his motor is a 3300kv.

Baddest lunchbox ever!. https://imgur.com/gallery/RTYKHJE

Can't get direct link to work.

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4 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Those spikes won't last one pack. Lol. 

Look closely. The spikes on those tires doesn't go on top of the chevron lugs like, say, the infamous Monster Beetle spiked tires, so I am sure they'll outlast the life not only of the battery pack but also the tire itself.

Makes me wonder the reason and why somebody in Tamiya would come up with such tire design?

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