The Twingo Lord 31 Posted September 12, 2019 I will be moving soon, so I’ll have a better workspace, what are some essential mods to do? I already have aluminum body mounts, also, how do I stop the front wheels rubbing on the front bumper? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonboy1 2929 Posted September 12, 2019 I'd strongly suggest the Team CRP front end conversion which eliminates the bump steer. Combine that with some CVA shocks and a 3rd(5th) shock mod for the gearbox and you'll have a cracking little truck! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonboy1 2929 Posted September 12, 2019 oh, and bearings throughout - just read your other post!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SuperJoeUK 56 Posted September 12, 2019 Ampro engineering has an alternative to the 5th shock.. looks way easier to fit. He also has a front end conversion for bump steer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted September 12, 2019 3 hours ago, SuperJoeUK said: Ampro engineering has an alternative to the 5th shock.. looks way easier to fit. it is , and it works very well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted September 12, 2019 4 hours ago, jonboy1 said: I'd strongly suggest the Team CRP front end conversion which eliminates the bump steer I've got an LB with CRP front conversion , it works well , I've also made a conversion on another LB from a Kyosho Ultima front beam , it is easier to fit an is a better job and works very well . I've also fitted sway bars to both LB's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Twingo Lord 31 Posted September 12, 2019 Mine is definitely a basher, and ampro doesn’t recommend the front end conversion for bashers, so the mods must be durable! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Twingo Lord 31 Posted September 12, 2019 1 hour ago, KEV THE REV said: I've got an LB with CRP front conversion , it works well , I've also made a conversion on another LB from a Kyosho Ultima front beam , it is easier to fit an is a better job and works very well . I've also fitted sway bars to both LB's How did you do the Ultima conversion? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted September 12, 2019 10 minutes ago, The Twingo Lord said: How did you do the Ultima conversion? Here it is :- https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133331&id=5280 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted September 12, 2019 3 hours ago, The Twingo Lord said: Mine is definitely a basher, and ampro doesn’t recommend the front end conversion for bashers, so the mods must be durable! Yes , the AMpro kit is 3D printed , it is tough , but not recommended for extreme use , ie , jumps etc . The CRP parts are molded , not 3D printed but need adapting to work properly .The Ultima conversion is made from the original Kyosho parts so is tough , but not indesctructible , but then neither are any RC parts if they are pushed to extremes . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MockTurtle 239 Posted September 12, 2019 If you've a 3d printer Thingiverse also has useful parts for the Lunch Box. I 3D printed my front suspension bits from a design there (search 'CW01')', its similar in concept to the ones mentioned here. Sure I've broken suspension arms... but I just reprint them... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biz73 603 Posted September 12, 2019 The CRP parts are tough. My Midnight Pumpkin has taken a beating with no issues. While you are upgrading the front end you should center the servo. You will have the same turning radius left and right, instead of a large circle one way and a tight circle the other. It's quick and easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shenlonco 1156 Posted September 13, 2019 My honest opinion there is no sense going crazy upgrading the front suspension because no matter what you do to the rear even with the best method I show the fishing string mod the rear suspension never works good it's just a faulty design and the front always works much better than the rear so what's the point upgrading the front? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biz73 603 Posted September 13, 2019 8 minutes ago, shenlonco said: My honest opinion there is no sense going crazy upgrading the front suspension because no matter what you do to the rear even with the best method I show the fishing string mod the rear suspension never works good it's just a faulty design and the front always works much better than the rear so what's the point upgrading the front? You can go in reverse without the front end dipping to the ground and the tires rubbing the body. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shenlonco 1156 Posted September 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Biz73 said: You can go in reverse without the front end dipping to the ground and the tires rubbing the body. I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biz73 603 Posted September 13, 2019 12 hours ago, shenlonco said: I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up. You asked what was the point of upgrading, so I gave one example. You may not run in reverse, but some people do. The conversion doesn't make the front run worse than stock. It may not be necessary, but there isn't anything wrong with converting a CW-01. To each their own. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Losi XXT-CR 147 Posted November 21, 2019 On 9/13/2019 at 4:27 AM, shenlonco said: I think if you put the rubber spacers above on the top of the chassis ware the shock rods slide through it helps but you never hardly go in reverse and the front suspension when moving forward works 100 times better than the faulty rear set up. I’d say the rear suspension works much better than the front. Especially with the Ampro brace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lsear2905 1279 Posted December 5, 2019 My Lunchbox wheels are never on the ground, so I can't see the point in upgrading the front suspension!! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1876 Posted December 14, 2019 Do monster beetle wheels fit the lunchbox? Or any other 2.2's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted December 14, 2019 Physically they fit , although the MB tyres are slightly bigger in diameter and thinner in width , so bottoming out might be a problem with MB on LB and possibly catching on the front bumper on the turn (solveable) . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1876 Posted December 16, 2019 Thanks @KEV THE REV Just wanted to put some prolines on or something with a bit more grip. Struggling to find tyres for the lunchbox, seems it's only the generic Chinese ones with adapter plates. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2304 Posted December 16, 2019 How about these ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-54603-WR-02-Monster-Spike-Tires-Soft-Wild-Willy-2-Lunch-Box-Pumpkin/293189050496?epid=1141910987&hash=item44436de080:g:7N0AAOSwIgNXtEvb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1876 Posted December 23, 2019 Those spikes won't last one pack. Lol. Was hoping to find something like dirt hawgs. But obviously they are 2.2 so not a direct fit. It belongs to my 8 year old boy, I've just squeezed a 3s lipo in it for him and his motor is a 3300kv. Baddest lunchbox ever!. https://imgur.com/gallery/RTYKHJE Can't get direct link to work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted December 23, 2019 4 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said: Those spikes won't last one pack. Lol. Look closely. The spikes on those tires doesn't go on top of the chevron lugs like, say, the infamous Monster Beetle spiked tires, so I am sure they'll outlast the life not only of the battery pack but also the tire itself. Makes me wonder the reason and why somebody in Tamiya would come up with such tire design? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites