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ThunderDragonCy

Changes needs going from asphalt to carpet setup?

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The club i have been racing my TA06 at has moved indoors for the winter. Outdoors its bumpy asphalt and my setup is 5mm ride height with relatively soft red rear, blue front setup. Gear diffs front and rear running 300k front, 3k rear. I have never run on carpet before, and the club guys say that its a tight track (to the point where many TC guys switch to mini but that's not an option for me). The go to tyre is a Sorex or Sweep 28 with no sauce because of the grip, which is what i was running outside anyway. Any suggestions on changes i might make? Lower ride height? Stiffer springs and/or dampers? Diffs? Maybe lighter rear oil to increase the rotation? 

Would appreciate some pointers. Thanks! 

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Apologies no reply previously, it was great to read that you had fun and that you did not need the marshall on your second time out :ph34r:

I would take the sorex over the sweeps everytime and everyone needs sauce even on mega high grip track, I use spider grip green.  The sidewalls will tear on the sorex after a few runs so make sure that you keep an eye on them and have glue handy. With the additive cover the rears but only ⅔ to ½ on the front leaving the outside edge dry (start with ⅔).  

I would go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil (1M +).  3k is good for the rear and I would have 5k on hand to experiment with.  (Thicker oil for more rotation)

Now your going indoor I would reinforce the body and get an extra one ready!  I would also mount the new one 2-3mm forward of the arch centre line. 

I’m not sure what final drive your running but I would start out at a little over 6 on small track.

Your ride height is fine any lower and you will rub on the track.  Your current springs will be ok to start with but it really would be worth investing in Big Bore TRF’s or similar and some good springs (I’d recommend SMJ and AXON). You could try progressive springs but unless you are super smooth they jump around rates too much and can be counter productive. 

Do you have access to a set-up station and what settings did you end with?  I think your droop needed more work as you should try and keep a 1mm difference between the front and back I would go 5 front and 4 rear.

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@El Dougo Thanks for chiming in. I already have the tamiya hard spring set with 2 other options to try, and for now i am happy with the hopped up CVA dampers. I will get some really thick oil for the front diff then and some more super glue. 

I have a home made setup station so i can measure heights and angles pretty well. 

I ended up 5mm front and rear ride height with 5mm front droop and 3.5mm rear. 

Hadn't considered gearing. Currently running 4.4 in 17.5, but haven't played with timing. I was much slower top speed than the other racers last race, but i have a fairly basic esc, and 4.5 is the gearing they recommended for outdoor. I have a spare 28t pinion which would drop the FDR to 5.27 so i could easily try a lower gear if needs be before buying a new pinion. 

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I wouldn't worry about the lack of top speed at this point but to address it you will probably need a new motor. You're running the Surpass Rocket V3 aren't you? That is an older model now. If you don't need ROAR approved then look at the Trinity Punisher or a secondhand Trinity monster 17.5T which lost its ROAR approved status, they basically cheated. If it has to be ROAR approved then you're in for an expensive upgrade.

I know nothing about setup though...

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In the UK we have the BRCA instead of ROAR but it’s pretty much the same deal, approved motors with a maximum retail price. The lack of top end on the outdoor track will most likely be a difference in gear ratio and motor timing . Gearing the motor for the track makes a big difference to lap times so should never be overlooked, especially as spurs and pinions are cheap.  The 4.5 ratio advice was most likely a starting point and I would suspect that on that track some of the guys would be down at 4.0. 

The V3 surpass rocket motors are excellent and if JG is suggesting a hotter motor of the same turn the difference would be marginal and only with top driver. A little over 40 degrees on the timing ring should be about 6 amps, set the motor to that with a fan pointing at it and forget about it. 

Something that won't cost which most people overlook is making sure that the steering travel is even, you want 25 - 30 degrees.  Set the car up so that the travel is as even as possible and then adjust the steering end points on the transmitter.

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Currently the motor is at 30 deg timing so that would do it. 

I did sort the steering, to the point og trimming using the turnbuckle to keep the trims in the middle on the Tx. What would the difference be if i used end points to limit turning angle instead of the Tx rate?

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It will be a combination of the gearing and timing.  Ideally it should be geared to rev close to the max RPM of the motor (faster acceleration) which should be over 25000 at 6amps, hence the 6.0+ FDR recommendation for a small technical track.    

For example, my motor has a max RPM of 28000 ish. If I was on 5.5FDR and it was maxing out at 18000 (data logging) I would know that I wasn't using the motors potential and run a higher FDR to increase the RPM it hits (e.g 6.0 would hit 24000). If I was maxing out too slow on the straight it would be hitting the max RPM too early and I would run a lower FDR.

Adjusting the end points will allow you to fine tune the travel on each side individually.  My Sanwa is something like Left +24, Right +18 to get the 28 degrees that I run.

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Got a free saturday evening this weekend so i am going to give it a spin. Got some 2 million cst oil for the front diff on the way, and i have gearing options of 5.7 or 6.4 with the pinions i have in spares. Will probably going short geared as it is likely to be more kind on my novice abilities! 

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