Clodbuster paint job gone pear shaped

[Bromley 681]

Looking good. Spray painting with aerosols is an art in itself. It takes time to build confidence. Once you have good colour built up, maybe 3 or 4 light coats, it's time to get a nice wet coat on. Getting this wet coat right is what can make or break a rattle can paint job. Too little and it still looks dry and patchy, too much and your faced with runs and sags in your paint. Get the balancing act right and you'll have lovely shiny smooth paint that needs minimal attention. 

[Apollo11 19]

Thanks. I know it doesn't look 100% in the photos due to the unevenness from the flash, but in the flesh it looks a deep smooth blue colour. Not a high gloss shine, but I'm happy with that. My one regret is that that Tamiya surface primer was really watery. This made it easy to apply, but I should have gone to more layers to fill in those scratches better. They are still evident in some places. Too late now though.

With the first coats I quickly realised that the spray wasn't reaching in the tighter spots behind the cab, I sprayed a bit into a cleaned margarine tub and applied it using a small brush. Then I used the following spray coats to even out the brush marks, which worked rather well.

Now I need to move on to the next stage. Hopefully the stencils won't take the paint off and undo all my careful efforts this time round. As there was pauses between each spraying session, all things considered this stage has taken more time and effort than the rest of the build combined. But then it really has been a learning process.

[Mad Ax 9311]

Most bodies have awkward places to get the paint into.  I sometimes find the recesses that simulate door shut lines sometimes end up white after everything else is done.  For that reason I tend to go over those areas first, both during the primer coat and the top coats, to make sure there is paint in them.  Trying to fill them in later after you've got a neat paint job on everything else is near impossible.  If I get them done first, worst-case scenario is I get runs on the flat parts around those areas, I can sand that back and do it again without removing the paint in the recess.

[berman 5315]

That's a nice retro colour, certainly goes with the age of the Clod. Let it dry and evaporate for a few days and then add some TS13 Clear 👍

[Apollo11 19]

Thanks, I think it looks great even if I do say so myself. I can't take credit for the choice of colour, I merely went with the theme stated in the kit. There are some stencils for adding some gun metal grey to the rear of the body, which I need to do next.

Thanks for mentioning the clear lacquer, I would have overlooked that. For the avoidance of doubt, to be clear, the TS13 clear lacquer is the last to go on after all the coats and before the stickers?

It's annoying none of this was mentioned in the kit or by the shop I bought it from.

[KEV THE REV 2316]

Clear coat is the last coat once all base colour has been dealt with . You can add stickers after the clear coat or you can coat over the stickers to seal the whole lot in . The choice is yours . I think most people ,  including myself , would clear coat and then apply the stickers after it has cured

[topforcein 1764]

and if you dont want to use tamiya clear coat use automotive clear coat instead and it will be cheaper aswell

[Apollo11 19]

And that won't cause an incompatibility in the types of paint? That's what Geniusanthony was referring to earlier on in the thread.

[geniusanthony 361]

On 2/8/2020 at 4:11 AM, Apollo11 said:

Thanks, I think it looks great even if I do say so myself. I can't take credit for the choice of colour, I merely went with the theme stated in the kit. There are some stencils for adding some gun metal grey to the rear of the body, which I need to do next.

Thanks for mentioning the clear lacquer, I would have overlooked that. For the avoidance of doubt, to be clear, the TS13 clear lacquer is the last to go on after all the coats and before the stickers?

It's annoying none of this was mentioned in the kit or by the shop I bought it from.

I didn't catch where you were from, something to keep in mind regarding the annoyance is that we are now in a rtr world. It seems very few outside of the Tamiya community even bother painting their own shells, all over FB you see questions like, will this body fit this car etc...when in reality the only variables to what fits are dimensions that are usually stated if one is willing to read a bit of documentation. 

In the end, clear coat or not, the choice is left up to the builder in determining the path that they want to take. The only benefit to clear is sealing the edges of the decals and evening out the gloss due to the inherent black magic of painting with spray cans.

Point is, you can't be sour at the shop because they probably don't know any better, again b/c of this rtr world we live in.

[Apollo11 19]

7 hours ago, geniusanthony said:

I didn't catch where you were from, something to keep in mind regarding the annoyance is that we are now in a rtr world. It seems very few outside of the Tamiya community even bother painting their own shells, all over FB you see questions like, will this body fit this car etc...when in reality the only variables to what fits are dimensions that are usually stated if one is willing to read a bit of documentation. 

In the end, clear coat or not, the choice is left up to the builder in determining the path that they want to take. The only benefit to clear is sealing the edges of the decals and evening out the gloss due to the inherent black magic of painting with spray cans.

Point is, you can't be sour at the shop because they probably don't know any better, again b/c of this rtr world we live in.

I'm in the UK. Ironic that the world has gone down the rtr route. Back when I was surrounded by r/c cars, it was the Tamiyas that ruled and anything pre-assembled was treated with scorn. Perhaps it's linked to the general dumbing down of society? I'm not interested in an rtr model as it's the challenge of the build that I was after anyway, as I had been denied the opportunity first time round.

As for the shop I bought the kit from, I had made a special point of seeking out a specialist r/c store. The guy's been running it for 20 years and has always only broken even (so he says anyway). He's stocked with numerous r/c kits, radio sets, tools, spares, paints, that sort of thing. Although he does focus more on the flying models and teaches regularly in a nearby field.

It was clear I was buying everything I needed from scratch, so to some extent he missed out on a few upsell opportunities.

On another note, earlier today I fixed the masking stickers in readiness for spraying the gun metal grey detailing at the back of the truck. But it got too dark before I had a chance to do the spray. the masking will need to be peeled off when I am done. Will leaving it on too long be bad for the base paint?

[geniusanthony 361]

55 minutes ago, Apollo11 said:

Will leaving it on too long be bad for the base paint?

Not as long as the base coat has cured thoroughly. You used TS (lacquer based) paint which cures relatively fast. I used the same mountain peak masking sheets on my coral and purple Super Clod, you'll find that the stripe border will help to conceal the masked edge a  bit too. When it comes time to decal do you know about the soapy water/ window cleaner trick for extra positioning time?

 

[Apollo11 19]

19 hours ago, geniusanthony said:

Not as long as the base coat has cured thoroughly. You used TS (lacquer based) paint which cures relatively fast. I used the same mountain peak masking sheets on my coral and purple Super Clod, you'll find that the stripe border will help to conceal the masked edge a  bit too. When it comes time to decal do you know about the soapy water/ window cleaner trick for extra positioning time?

 

That's a relief. I applied the masking sheets on Sunday and the last coat went on the previous weekend. So it had plenty of time to cure. I've now taped on a spare plastic bag to cover the rest of the cab from over spray. I'm now going to have wait for the weather to calm down before the next layer.

yes, I watched an informative youtube video that demonstrated the soapy water trick. I used the technique when applying the masking sheets. Partly to make sure I got them lined up correctly. But also to practice applying the technique before taking on the stickers. it worked rather well. Not familiar with the window cleaner trick, what's that? is it much the same thing?

[geniusanthony 361]

58 minutes ago, Apollo11 said:

That's a relief. I applied the masking sheets on Sunday and the last coat went on the previous weekend. So it had plenty of time to cure. I've now taped on a spare plastic bag to cover the rest of the cab from over spray. I'm now going to have wait for the weather to calm down before the next layer.

yes, I watched an informative youtube video that demonstrated the soapy water trick. I used the technique when applying the masking sheets. Partly to make sure I got them lined up correctly. But also to practice applying the technique before taking on the stickers. it worked rather well. Not familiar with the window cleaner trick, what's that? is it much the same thing?

If you click down below and find the Blackfoot videos I had a whole saga of getting my BF CR01 just right.

[Apollo11 19]

48 minutes ago, geniusanthony said:

If you click down below and find the Blackfoot videos I had a whole saga of getting my BF CR01 just right.

Sorry, click where? I've looked but don't find it.

[geniusanthony 361]

4 minutes ago, Apollo11 said:

Sorry, click where? I've looked but don't find it.

https://www.youtube.com/user/geniusanthony

No worries, You must be on mobile. Signatures don't show up except on PC or desktop view.

[Apollo11 19]

Cool, got the link now thank you. Looks good. Incidentally I am viewing on a Desktop. But I'm not seeing your signature?

[Apollo11 19]

As I'm now doing the gun metal grey section at the back, the bonnet and cab area are masked over. But looking at the photos again, I'm now having second thoughts about the paint finish in the air intake under the windscreen. Would it be possible and worthwhile to take a scalpel and scrape out the bits of paint left from the original attempt and spray that area again?

[geniusanthony 361]

18 minutes ago, Apollo11 said:

scalpel and scrape out the bits of paint left from the original attempt and spray that area again?

Without seeing a photo, I'd think it easier to brush paint in the cowl vents I assume with some black. Acrylic x18 could be used and filled in with a toothpick or brush and then just wipe of the excess. Being acrylic based, it won't bond to the underlying layers until fully cured.

[Apollo11 19]

On 2/3/2020 at 10:38 PM, Apollo11 said:

Right folks. Having completed the following steps over time, I am pleased to report the results:

1. Used the B&Q paint stripper to get the old paint off. 

2. Used some Tamiya liquid surface primer to fill in the scratches where I had been over exuberant.

3. bought a B&Q PVC greenhouse to use as a spray booth.

4. In spray booth, used a can of Humbrol Acrylic spray primer to build up numerous thin base layers.

5. Got through two cans of Tamiya mica blue spraying from various angles to ensure an even spread, this is the first colour completed:

(Annoyingly the flash makes the sides look uneven when it's fine in the flesh.

it's the 2nd photo I'm referring to. But I like the idea of making the vents black. Thanks, I'll give that a go.

[jonboy1 2943]

If you go with the plan of making the vents black, wait until you have clear coated the rest of the body first. Then fill in the vents with acrylic flat black using either a thin brush or a toothpick. You might find it easier to thin the paint and don't expect to do it in one go, it'll probably take at least 2 coats.

As acrylic can be wiped up with water it won't ruin your paint finish by needing to use thinners.

[Apollo11 19]

Will do, duly noted. Why the clear coat first? I had expected that to go on last, after the black in the vents. I've got some thin brushes, so I'll use them.

[jonboy1 2943]

If you put acrylic paint on - especially in very thin lines or small details - and then spray a non-acrylic clear coat on afterwards, the solvents in the spray will dissolve the acrylic paint and make it bleed and/or run. Not what you want. So always do your detail painting like vents, window trim etc after the clear coat. You can always go over them with an acrylic clear with a brush afterwards to protect them.

[Apollo11 19]

On 2/26/2020 at 8:22 AM, jonboy1 said:

If you put acrylic paint on - especially in very thin lines or small details - and then spray a non-acrylic clear coat on afterwards, the solvents in the spray will dissolve the acrylic paint and make it bleed and/or run. Not what you want. So always do your detail painting like vents, window trim etc after the clear coat. You can always go over them with an acrylic clear with a brush afterwards to protect them.

Great, thanks for the heads up. If you hadn't explained that one, I would have left the clear coat until last and ruined the detailing as a result.

[Apollo11 19]

Right folks, thanks for all the guidance. It has been really useful. I have very nearly finished the Clod. All the body paint work is finished and the stickers are on. I am just waiting for the paint on the spot lights to cure properly before I put them on and apply those stickers. When it is complete I'll upload some final photos. I'm conscious of a couple of mistakes so I won't claim it's 100%, but I am still pleased with the result overall. The bits I found trickiest was the detailing the window surrounds.

I've enjoyed this challenge so much, that I went and bought a super hot shot as my next build. Something to stop me going nuts during the lock down. I watched a couple of Youtube videos on spraying the inside of the body. One of them mentions rubbing the body with 1000 grit sand paper - omitting any windows - to give the paint something to key on to. But this is not mentioned elsewhere. What are peoples' thoughts on this? 

[J@mes 2326]

1st I’ve heard of it, instruction manuals I’ve seen say to wash & dry prior to paint, no sanding/ keying.