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TrueBlue

Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Cutting Out

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Hey all, annoyingly this is my third thread in less than a week, lol. Problems seem to be popping up more often than usual.

This time, I have a problem with a brand new Hobbywing Quicrun 1060. The 1060 is coupled to an HPI Firebolt 15T motor, and this particular setup is in most of my R/C cars and they all without issues... except this one, of course.

The 1060 is currently in a Boomerang, and every now and again, 1060 will cut out, seemingly for no reason. It'll beep, won't move, then beep again a few seconds later and can now move. But then it'll beep again and so on... sometimes, I can't move an inch before it cuts out again. I believe all the batteries are fully charged, the 1060 can easily handle 15T motors (12T limit), there is no thermal cutout going on as it'll barely move for a few seconds before the cut off occurs. The steering servo still works, so it couldn't be a receiver or battery issue (I assume though).

I have noticed (I think) it seems to happen more often if I'm reversing then shove the stick into forward, then it cuts off. It also seems to slow down the overall speed when reversing, then after the cut off, reverse speed is faster again. I cannot fathom what is happening. As I said, I have multiple cars with the same ESC and motor setup (including my new Hot Shot) and they all function perfectly fine. Have never had any cut off problems with them.

Does anyone with experience with the Quicrun 1060 have any ideas as to why it would cut off over and over again for, what I can tell, absolutely no reason??

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The fact that it is bleeping suggests it is throwing some sort of error.  From what I can see on the HW manual, there are only two possible error conditions - low voltage and thermal protection.  The manual suggests that a red light will blink under these conditions.  However, as good as Hobbywing products are, their manuals are pretty poor - so there might be other issues going on.

Are you using NiMH or LiPo batteries?  If you are using NiMH, are you sure the LiPo cutoff is disabled?  NiMHs may drop below the LiPo cutoff voltage during normal use, particularly when they are under high load.

IIRC the Boomerang has a closed chassis, so the ESC will run hotter than in other cars.  Depending on how sensitive the thermal cut-off is, a few seconds might be just enough to dissipate excess heat.

Is the Boomerang geared correctly for the 15T motor?  Does the drivetrain move freely?  Putting too much load on the motor will cause excess the in the ESC.

Is the motor and batter wiring in good condition, not kinked or split or burnt, are the battery and motor connectors clean and connecting properly?  A bad battery connection may reduce the voltage reaching the ESC causing it to cut out.

Do you use the same radio system in all your other cars?  Are you sure the handset is configured correctly with its trims, endpoints, etc in the default place?  It doesn't sound like a trim problem but it's worth double-checking.

You say you have the same combo in other cars - do you use the same batteries in the other cars?

Of course there is always the possibility that you have a bad ESC.  Since you have multiples in other cars, it might be worth swapping ESCs.  If the problem persists in the Boomerang then there's something specific to the car (motor, gearing, cooling, radio configuration); if the problem transfers to the other car then it's a duff ESC.

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I'm currently using Ni-Mh batteries, and as far as I know, the LiPo cut off is disabled. 

By closed chassis, do you mean the polycarbonate cover that goes on top of the chassis? Other than that, my Boomerang has an open chassis. My Hotshot however, does have a closed chassis.

Is it geared for a 15T motor? At the moment, I can only assume. The other cars I have this combo in all use their original pinion gears, I've never had to swap them out for any other gears. So again, i can only assume at this point that the original gear the Boomerang comes with is OK for 15T motors.

With this one, you may have a point. Prior to your reply, I tried another, much newer battery in the Boomerang and I have actually haven't had any cut offs. The original battery did have a split in the rubber on the red cable which could have contributed to the problem. Possibly turning on the under-voltage cut out. However, there is still an issue with reverse... most of the time, it'll be fast but on occasion becomes really slow and sluggish, like battery the battery is dying. But then all of a sudden, it'll be back to speed again. Even WITH a newer battery.

I do use the same radio system in all my other cars. No trim problem, all is set up correctly. I use different brand and mAh batteries, but all standard Tamiya type/size.

Thankfully, the ESC may not be the issue after all, it could have been a bad battery. I just need to figure the reversing issue. Thanks for your input once again :)

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On 9/19/2019 at 7:32 PM, TrueBlue said:

I'm currently using Ni-Mh batteries, and as far as I know, the LiPo cut off is disabled. 

You need to alter the jumpers plugs to tell the esc you're using nimh, from what you are describing it's set in lipo mode and the low volt is kicking in.

It's a 2 stage cut off on the 1060, it cuts to half speed when the voltage drops to 6.5v (which is not far off a fully charged 7.2v nimh), and then cuts off completely at 6v.

I've run them with 15t firebolts on a few cars, both with 2s and 3s Lipo and haven't had any issues (melted the motor wires solder with an unknown reedy modifed though).

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Wooders28: No worries there, it's already set to Ni-MH by default and I never change it, since I never use LiPo batteries.

Oddly though, it doesn't even slow to half speed as you say, it just stops completely. A few seconds later, it would come back and all is well again, for an indefinite amount of time anyway. Sometimes I've had to turn off the 1060 then switch it back on again to reset it, as it were. 

I too have the Firebolt 15t motor and 1060 combo in 2-3 cars and never had a problem. So I'm quite confused as to why it's occurring with the Boomerang.

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Could just be a dud..  Have you reached out to Hobbywing about it?

 

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Hi, just wondering how this panned out, as I have the same issues with the same ESC.  I would be interested to know if and how you solved it.

 

Mark

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Have you tried disabling reverse on the speedo and trying it like that? That’ll soon tell you if the speedo is knackered 

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I have a goolrc and although the soldering looks perfect there is a problem with the battery connector. It occasionally cuts out and I just have to move the deans-style connector a bit where it joins the battery. As I say it looks perfect so there no obvious reason for it, but it needs cutting off and replacing.

 

so a dodgy connection is a possibility 

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I have just started to experience this myself, on a nearly new 1060 using a 17turn Parma motor after about 2 minutes of use the car just stops. Steering works fine, just a clicking from the ESC. 

I am suprised if it is the ESC as it is supposed to have a 12 turn limit but don't know what else it could be, battery fully charged (Nimh) all connections good, a real head scratcher ...

 

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If you're running a Parma motor it's going to be very old. Which means there is a high probablity it is in poor condition and putting extra load on the esc.

It's probably the thermal cutoff if the ESC just stops. They go to half power when the voltage cutoff kicks in.

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Thanks for the reply, the Parma motor is in excellent condition, brushes hardly worn, comm almost immaculate.  But its probably near or over 30k rpm which is the stated rev limit for the 1060 so that may be it. 

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16 hours ago, Juictetin said:

Thanks for the reply, the Parma motor is in excellent condition, brushes hardly worn, comm almost immaculate.  But its probably near or over 30k rpm which is the stated rev limit for the 1060 so that may be it. 

No, the revs make no difference, a brushed motor gives no feedback on the rpm to the esc.

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37 minutes ago, sosidge said:

No, the revs make no difference, a brushed motor gives no feedback on the rpm to the esc.

Interesting, so why do Hobbywing put a 30k rpm limit on 7.2v in the instruction manual then ?

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9 hours ago, Juictetin said:

Interesting, so why do Hobbywing put a 30k rpm limit on 7.2v in the instruction manual then ?

No idea. Probably on the assumption that people buying motors will only look at rpm so they will be less likely to buy one that is too fast.

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