NobbySideways 113 Posted September 27, 2019 About to start my Audi Quattro on a TT-02, it requires a few holes in the body for light bucket mounts, body pins etc. Has anyone got any top tips on how to neatly do these without tearing a dirty great hole in it? I've achieved really neat results before using a soldering iron tip (which not only gave a neat hole but slightly thickened the plastic around the hole as it displaced the plastic rather than removing it). This time I figure I should do it right though... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juggular 4914 Posted September 27, 2019 I like the soldering tip thickening the hole. It'd be also stronger too. But, I'd be worried about controlling the size of it. I think most people use body reamers? These things cost about $5. Small or big, these can do it. Since it takes some effort, you can be precise about how big a hole you make. And the holes are generally neat enough. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3729 Posted September 27, 2019 Yep - 100% what Juggular said they are a must in your tool kit (i have the exact one in blue in the pic above) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted September 27, 2019 I'm just wary about buying a tool I'll probably use once (I'm not that flush with cash), especially as I have a workshop full of good tools. Thanks for the tips chaps, I'll investigate. I want one fairly soon so I'll see if I can find one on Prime. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted September 27, 2019 Just realised.... I bought some JIS screwdrivers just for this build so I'm talk out of my butt.... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3729 Posted September 27, 2019 Indeed - theres only one thing they are destined for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9147 Posted September 27, 2019 seriously, a body hole reamer is the exact tool for this job, if you ever intend to do more than one body this is what you need 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted September 27, 2019 Thats the thing, I probably won't do another. However I have some taper reamers for my lathe which look like a posher version of the same thing. They will probable be ideal. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nbTMM 432 Posted September 27, 2019 I just drill a smaller sized hole (e.g. 4mm), then the final size (e.g. 6.5mm), with regular drill bits. I then clean the burrs with a step drill bit by hand. Press a piece of wood up against the back of the polycarbonate shell when drilling to avoid tear out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3729 Posted September 27, 2019 39 minutes ago, NobbySideways said: Thats the thing, I probably won't do another. Then the answer to this is to buy more shells. Win Win all round 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juggular 4914 Posted September 27, 2019 6 hours ago, NobbySideways said: Thats the thing, I probably won't do another. However I have some taper reamers for my lathe which look like a posher version of the same thing. They will probable be ideal. Yep, I did the same. I used the Swiss Army knife's belt hole maker. I don't recommend that. It twists the hole. Then I drilled, it's okay. But then I relented and bought a reamer. It's so much easier. And I ended up with a dozen shells anyway... I think they breed... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted September 28, 2019 Buy the body reamer You'll find a lot more uses after owning one... it cuts any soft plastics, I use it quite often for modding instrument cases or electronic panels. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted September 30, 2019 On 9/27/2019 at 11:25 AM, nbTMM said: I just drill a smaller sized hole (e.g. 4mm), then the final size (e.g. 6.5mm), with regular drill bits. I then clean the burrs with a step drill bit by hand. Press a piece of wood up against the back of the polycarbonate shell when drilling to avoid tear out. This ended up being the technique I used; the bit about pressing a bit of wood against the back of the polycarbonate is the real golden tip here. I used a 2mm drill to bore a pilot hole, then a 6.5mm to get the right size. Top tip for anyone else doing this; keep the shell pressed down whilst doing this so it doesn't shoot up the drill bit. Sounds like a basic tip but I didn't do it on my third hole and nearly trashed it. Most things I would drill quite slowly but I think this material cut cleanest on a higher speed. Thanks for all the tips; if I build more models I will probably invest in a tool but at the moment I do about one every 6 years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JennyMo 3522 Posted October 1, 2019 Tools are cool - and the correct tool for the job is always a pleasure to use. As WillyChange suggests - once you have one, I'm sure you'll find it useful for other [similar] tasks in other materials too. Jx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NobbySideways 113 Posted October 2, 2019 I've got a fully stocked workshop at home (Lathe and the lot, my uncool hobby is building large working model steam locomotives) but I'm still reluctant to buy stuff if I can get away without it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted October 3, 2019 Meh... others buy tools even if it's a 1-use item They're cheap as $5-10 from yumcha brand these days... I bought mine from Hudy back when they were $30+ That was back in the 1990s! Same unit still going strong today. Tip #1 with good reamers - DON'T EVER lend it out to anybody. It'll come back wrecked or it'll never come back. Keep it hidden, mine stays on tool ranch at the back of drawer - don't see any need to bring it to track every race. Tip #2 - Calibrate it. Get some scrap lexan, cut a hole until it's exactly 5mm. Mark that position on the flute/s. Cut the hole to 6mm. Mark that position too. Sharpie is fine. Tip #3 cut from BOTH sides of the panel. Don't just ream thru from one side all the way. Balance out the cutting from both sides. Makes a neater cut, cleans out the swarf better without tearing chunks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites