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Nimrod Dyna Lightning

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2 minutes ago, joe999 said:

this is such a complex part and fits so well that it literally locks in and does not need to be fixed. Therefore, I think that 2D drawings do not lead to the goal. I consider with which material I could  mold the part. Do you have an idea?

 

Regards, Jochen

Yeah i can understand that.. it twists and turns all places.. 

Not sure what could be used to mold it, my first thoughts goes towards some sort of clay. But not sure if there is one that is not that fragile. 
 

Anyone have a good idea of what could be used? 

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Good old hand modelling, I like it. But at the end, lets talk about which result you expect? Do you want a 1:1 replic of the Nimrod scoop including typografic? Are you okay with another brands airscoop, which does the same effect?

So if you have a fitting clay or polysteren or plaster model, how do you want to make the scoop? I think Nimrod did all their parts with cast-processing. Its really a mess and if you want another one you need the negativ form.

3D SLS print is the way to go on my opinion and therefor you need the 3D modell.

 

Oh d##n it, for decades engineers shaped the beautiest cars without any computer... :D

Let it roll...

DS_airscoop_01.jpg

 

 

@netsmithUK please fix the EDIT button : )

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5 hours ago, Collin said:

Good old hand modelling, I like it. But at the end, lets talk about which result you expect? Do you want a 1:1 replic of the Nimrod scoop including typografic? Are you okay with another brands airscoop, which does the same effect?

So if you have a fitting clay or polysteren or plaster model, how do you want to make the scoop? I think Nimrod did all their parts with cast-processing. Its really a mess and if you want another one you need the negativ form.

3D SLS print is the way to go on my opinion and therefor you need the 3D modell.

 

Oh d##n it, for decades engineers shaped the beautiest cars without any computer... :D

Let it roll...

DS_airscoop_01.jpg

 

 

@netsmithUK please fix the EDIT button : )

I would for sure like to get one as close to original Nimrod as possible with a little improvement to the mount, that crack on Jochen's part.  I also think that 3D printing is the way to go on this part. 

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I have idears about the mount done with both upper screws from the gearbox cover. No need to drill holes into the rear CF damper stay.

Also there can be a second air inlet from the opening in the shocktower. It will look over the top of the shell, real racing look : )

Let me fiddle around a bit and we will see how things come...

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Another method could be to form and sculpture the part quickly from a styropor/ foam block. Then coat with thin layers of glassfiber layer or fleece and epoxy, to get the shape.

After drying, soak the foam with nitro solvent, and you get an airflow channel, when the foam is dissolved. Of course a very oldschool method, but could give a good result for the purpose… 

And for the pro´s it could be done from carbonfibre, too.

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Are we sure that the air intake deserve so much attention and work? Are we sure that the air intake is really useful? I try to explain my assertion, please be patient due to my poor english :ph34r:
The idea of fresh air that flow to the motor is smart but if the air doesn't flows "thorugh" the motor to improve the cooling the air intake will be only another exotic part screwed on our car. In the DS the motor sits in a claustrophobic place without much metal parts (except for its plate) that help to dissipate heat and the slots in the Nimrod motor guard IMO are not enough to allow air to flow freely and plentiful. But we are talking about a shelf queen, so mine is only the umteenth observation of a teen grown spending much time on Rc magazines, Tamiya catalogues and motorsport magazines B)

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18 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Another method could be to form and sculpture the part quickly from a styropor/ foam block. Then coat with thin layers of glassfiber layer or fleece and epoxy, to get the shape.

After drying, soak the foam with nitro solvent, and you get an airflow channel, when the foam is dissolved. Of course a very oldschool method, but could give a good result for the purpose… 

And for the pro´s it could be done from carbonfibre, too.

Yeah, that is one way, or two ways to do it, that would be pretty easy to do. I would love to do it in carbon fibre, that would be epic. 

7 hours ago, jeekelemental said:

Are we sure that the air intake deserve so much attention and work? Are we sure that the air intake is really useful? I try to explain my assertion, please be patient due to my poor english :ph34r:
The idea of fresh air that flow to the motor is smart but if the air doesn't flows "thorugh" the motor to improve the cooling the air intake will be only another exotic part screwed on our car. In the DS the motor sits in a claustrophobic place without much metal parts (except for its plate) that help to dissipate heat and the slots in the Nimrod motor guard IMO are not enough to allow air to flow freely and plentiful. But we are talking about a shelf queen, so mine is only the umteenth observation of a teen grown spending much time on Rc magazines, Tamiya catalogues and motorsport magazines B)

I for sure see your point, thay said, for me this is not a question if it works good or not. For me this project is mainly to build an Nimrod Dyna Lightning as close to the way Nimrod did them self. For sure I will not be able to find all the original Nimrod parts, and for the parts I can't find i will take the time or cost to get an replica part made. 
Once I have done this project I might have a look to see if the Nimrod parts can be made even better, if I find the time and motivation to do so. 

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57 minutes ago, bjorklo said:

Yeah, that is one way, or two ways to do it, that would be pretty easy to do. I would love to do it in carbon fibre, that would be epic. 

I for sure see your point, thay said, for me this is not a question if it works good or not. For me this project is mainly to build an Nimrod Dyna Lightning as close to the way Nimrod did them self. For sure I will not be able to find all the original Nimrod parts, and for the parts I can't find i will take the time or cost to get an replica part made. 
Once I have done this project I might have a look to see if the Nimrod parts can be made even better, if I find the time and motivation to do so. 

It's all about your choice, you've chosen the darkest side, the shelf side :ph34r: :D

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10 hours ago, jeekelemental said:

Are we sure that the air intake deserve so much attention and work? Are we sure that the air intake is really useful? I try to explain my assertion, please be patient due to my poor english :ph34r:
...

 

Ten years ago I´ve done some measurements (original Topic: http://www.offroad-cult.org/Board/tamiya-dyna-storm-tuning-ersatzteile-t11771,start,10.html):

 

Here are the first measurement results regarding the blade rims:

Vampire Racing Lipo, 4000mAh, 25C, bashing in the woods with normal rims. So no full throttle track, but heavy terrain with steep slopes, jumps, soft ground thickly covered with pine needles.

Engine head temperature with empty battery: 74.6 degrees Celsius

immediate afterwards with still hot engine and the Blade rims, same distance as above, Team Orion Lipo, 3800mAh, 30C

Engine head temperature with empty battery: 68.1 degrees Celsius

Then I have emptied a lipo on grass with a lot of full throttle, again this time the engine head temperature did not rise above 68 degrees. A DT-02 on the same track with the same driving style with a Superstock TZ  shocked to 107 degrees

 

The rims certainly have some influence.

Regards, Jochen
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1 hour ago, joe999 said:

 

Ten years ago I´ve done some measurements (original Topic: http://www.offroad-cult.org/Board/tamiya-dyna-storm-tuning-ersatzteile-t11771,start,10.html):

 

Here are the first measurement results regarding the blade rims:

Vampire Racing Lipo, 4000mAh, 25C, bashing in the woods with normal rims. So no full throttle track, but heavy terrain with steep slopes, jumps, soft ground thickly covered with pine needles.

Engine head temperature with empty battery: 74.6 degrees Celsius

immediate afterwards with still hot engine and the Blade rims, same distance as above, Team Orion Lipo, 3800mAh, 30C

Engine head temperature with empty battery: 68.1 degrees Celsius

Then I have emptied a lipo on grass with a lot of full throttle, again this time the engine head temperature did not rise above 68 degrees. A DT-02 on the same track with the same driving style with a Superstock TZ  shocked to 107 degrees

 

The rims certainly have some influence.

Regards, Jochen

I've read the original thread and, as accountant,  I have to bow to the numbers :-)

Of course that wheels (shaped as a pair of big fans) move a certain amount of fresh air in the warmest part of the car.

Still in doubt about the intake :-D

Concerning the DT02 its motor place (and its full plastic mould) is one of the thing I don't like 'cause I've supposed at first sight that increases motor overheat.

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Have a look at the 3DRC cooling fan ducts for modern touringcars. They make a big difference in air temps. They force the air around the motor more than just blowing wind to one side of the motor. I think the Nimrod airduct might do something similar.

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Kind of reverse engeneering. needs a lot of brainwork but yes, it will be a motorcoolingsystem at the end. Needs some new skills in fusion but I learn.

DS_scoop_01.jpg

DS_scoop_02.jpg

 

stlill needs a lot of shape but the surrounding exists now. the shape of the airscoop is so simple but complex in the same way.

 

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10 hours ago, Collin said:

Kind of reverse engeneering. needs a lot of brainwork but yes, it will be a motorcoolingsystem at the end. Needs some new skills in fusion but I learn.

DS_scoop_01.jpg

DS_scoop_02.jpg

 

stlill needs a lot of shape but the surrounding exists now. the shape of the airscoop is so simple but complex in the same way.

 

Wow, that is so cool.. You got this far already. Looks good. 

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On 10/30/2019 at 8:01 AM, bjorklo said:

 

👍🏼

Its far away from far. But ill get it baked in till christmas : )

 

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I need some pics from the airscoop mounted on the DS. Most important from top view and left side. :unsure:


Thanx @joe999

 

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@colin Here are some pictures from @joe999, Jochen's other build thread hope they will help? 

BA01735A-858D-463E-A740-D6C87A8D306A.jpeg

18C230A0-FC91-48E1-A769-07331F279816.jpeg

17B577C4-B04E-4BDE-9C50-BA6614B2F554.jpeg

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What I need to see is how they shaped the intake. This doesnt appear on those pics, but anyway, I dont think the design is good for the airflow. It starts pretty small and becomes really wide next. To keep air fast, It need to stay slim.
Also I feel I miss some features of the fusion 360, I am working around but doing things too complicatet to get a result. I dont get the twist done of the inner wall, I need a mentor : )
Also I dont know how to make this thing hollow. LOL

But this is where I am.

DS_scoop_03.jpg

DS_scoop_04.jpg

 

DS_scoop_05.jpg

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On 11/9/2019 at 10:57 PM, Collin said:

What I need to see is how they shaped the intake. This doesnt appear on those pics, but anyway, I dont think the design is good for the airflow. It starts pretty small and becomes really wide next. To keep air fast, It need to stay slim.
Also I feel I miss some features of the fusion 360, I am working around but doing things too complicatet to get a result. I dont get the twist done of the inner wall, I need a mentor : )
Also I dont know how to make this thing hollow. LOL

But this is where I am.

DS_scoop_03.jpg

DS_scoop_04.jpg

 

DS_scoop_05.jpg

I'm impressed, this looks really good. I'm sorry but I can't help you regarding seeing how the intake is shaped. one thought, is it possible to make several small channels from the wide intake in the front? this way the air would be forced the way you describe? 

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Logo02_zpsr9azi7f3.png

A little more done on this project. I got the donor car today

D3AA49F7-63CD-4219-91E4-BF3F993943B5_zps

I started making the lower chassis plate. I used 2mm CF plate. I’m not sure if this will be the one I have on the car in the end, I think I will get one CNC just to be more correct. I started with printing the layout on a paper which I used tape to keep it in place on the CF plate. I then took a knife and cut out different holes. I then used a drill to make the holes for all the screws. Next step was to use the dremel to cut out as much as possible. I now need to do the final work to finish it.

468C493B-3557-401B-9422-AB870EAE1B92_zps

C6B8A53C-E88B-42C7-9907-707B9788C128_zps

D8527A59-F01A-470B-97AE-A5EDA784ABFA_zps

I’m getting some help from the fantastic people on TamiyaClub to design the missing parts. In addition to @Colin helping with the airintake @jonboy1 is helping me replicating the upper to lower deck, I gave him a picture of it and some measurements from the Dyna Storm and the Nimrod lower deck design and he came up with this.

Nimrod%20UpperToLowerDeck_zpsbdiidybe.jp

UpperToLowerDeck_zpsad9yfbyc.jpg

UpperToLowerDeckByJonboy1_zpsgyeuclde.pn

Looks like things are starting to take shape and I can "soon" start the assembling

 

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What I do right now is watching one tutorial after the other. This fusion360 can do everything, its such a stunning software. Worth every cent.

About the pipelines inside, I am shure I can doo it (soon). I know a bit about airflow from tuning 2-stroke cylinders transfere ports. 

Here is an exsample:

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6vHeVWP3XJWI8Yp2HHFJ

 

I think it does not make any sense to have more then one pipeline. Keeping the same diameter from intake to the outlet. So the airstream speed is the same then.

One other idear in my mind, pipeline #1 is coming from between wing and shell (center dampre stay) and going to top of the motor, like it is now.
Pipeline #2 has the intake where it is now but will go to the opening of the fiber-gearbox brace.

But then we have to think where the hot air is going too. If there is not enough place for the air go out, no fresh air is going through.

@bjorklo I will finishe this airscoope but I am afraid it will not be a 1:1 copy of the nimrod. Hope this will be fine for your project. If you really want a Nimrod Dyna Lighning, it might be better doing this part by handcrafting fibersheets and epoxy.

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@Colin it will be very interesting to see how it turns out. I would very much like to have one. But as you say it will not be 100% like the Nimrod one so I think I will also try to get one made. I think I will get it 3d printed and so I don't have to make it old school for now. This is just because I don't have that much time for rc right now, but I really want to see this project done 😊
 

Really looking forward to seeing your end result.. 

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Something for the motivation :)

My thoughts about mounting the airscoope. The left cylinder will be the only mounting hole where the scoope is boltet to the motorplate by simply using a longer screw. The other two mountings are simply made with double tape. Why? Why not! At the inlet its sticked to the damper stay, the little hole is for the mother of the upper suspension arm. The second mount is simply the carbonfiber gearbox brace by using tape again.

DS_scoop_07.jpg


DS_scoop_08.jpg

Inside there are no corners or gaps which will distube airflow.

DS_scoop_09.jpg

 

DS_scoop_10.jpg

 

DS_scoop_11.jpg

The last notch is how the scoop ends at the motor(guard). I am afraid I will need at least one proto-print. Unfortunitly my 3D print connection isnt anymore and I cant afford usual prices at shapeways or other local printshops. There is a need of a solution.  (buying own printer?!)

 

 

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@Colin wow this looks really good. 

Must agree about the double-sided tape, yeah why not 😊

I have a 3D printer and could probably do a test print. I say probably because I have never used the printer, got it two years ago 😛. My plan is to try it during my Christmas holidays. 

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That would be a good reason to learn how to print. It will be a good lessen because of 2mm wall thickness and a hollow body, some hangovers ect.

Honestly I like this Team-Up project : ) High 5!

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