Lunchbox upgrades..... So confusing!!!

[Jonnythefox87 61]

I've just come back to the hobby having had electric rc cars as a kid and got myself a lunchbox. I've looked at upgrading it but I'm now so confused and having researched things more I've got a few points that I need advice on. If anyone can lend some advice or tips for any of the points below, ideally with links to exact parts then I'd be really grateful 

1)Alternative shell- I'd like an alternative shell purely for aesthetics to have a different look (ideally monster beetle or black foot style truck) as its a 1/12 scale chassis I'm finding it hard to find anywhere that does a shell that will fit

2)I'm planning to do the Ampro front wishbone upgrade, and gearbox brace instead of 5th shock, Is shape ways the only place to get the parts? I'm from the UK so wondered if its available on a UK site or ebay perhaps

3)Oiled filled shocks- I'm looking to install oil filled shocks, it's been suggested to have 75mm front and 85mm rear but what oil and/or spring stiffness is best? It's never going to be a racer so I don't want to spend a fortune, any links to exact products would be great

4) Brushless motor- I think I'm going to go brushless in terms of motor (between 3000kv and 4000kv) and 2s or 3s lipo batteries to go with it. Again I don't want spend a fortune so can anyone recommend specific products that are ideally waterproof, there seems to be so many options plus I may have to get an esc/motor combo

5) The esc that came with the kit says its compatible with brushless setup, but I want to double check if its OK to use with the brushless motor and lipos I've mentioned above. I've included a picture if the instructions below with the esc's details. Needless to say I'm not wised up on the technical side of these electrics! 

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help

 

[graemevw 823]

Ok, in the wrong order...

 

I used a tamiya cva set specifically for this chassis.

I use the tble and a speed passion 13.5, it goes well!

I recomend the crp fx10 front conversion. It needs a little diy to work but i think the ampro one does too. Ive seen lots of ampro ones break (sorry, but its true). The crp set is strong. Ive raced, jumped and crashed mine and its fine. Check ebay usa, i had it sent to the uk.

[markbt73 5310]

Well, I can't help with the other stuff, but I can help with the alternate bodies... the Lunch Box wheelbase is around 8 inches (205mm), which is within spitting distance of the wheelbase for nearly all 1/12th scale bodies, as well as "short" (210mm) M-chassis bodies. Check out RJ Speed, Parma, and Kamtec for some interesting 1/12 choices.

Keep in mind that you'll probably have to DIY some mounts for a different body. But that's part of the challenge of modifying stuff, isn't it?

[Juggular 4961]

1)  Alternative shell -- I would look at the wheelbase and width of the shell, not the scale.  A van would be bigger than a car, so Tamiya shrank more.  For example, this Pajero (kit# 58044) was on the same upper chassis, and it was 1/10th.  Most shells indicate wheelbase (distance between front axle and rear axle) and width. 

2)  Ampro gearbox brace instead of 5th shock is quite useful.  But for the front, there is CRP stuff too.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BASIC-CONVERSION-Hardware-Tamiya-Lunch-Box-Midnight-Pumpkin-Team-CRP-9125-BAC/352630916946?hash=item521a70c752:g:J8QAAOSwlMFZOGzG   

3)  Oiled filled shocks are not really necessary.  Friction from the plastic already provides somewhat of a damping effect.  Having said that, though, I put oil shocks in above Pajero configuration. 

If you go with oil, I'd suggest going with softest setting.  Tamiya is known for scratch-phobia; even the kits with oil shocks supplied, asks for a stiff setting.  

4)  Brushless motor -_ A brushless motor of 3000kv won't work with TBLE-02S.  That is compatible with "Sensored" brushless.  There are two different types of brushless motors.  Sensored ones are using turns to indicate what kind it is.  17.5t, 15.5t, 13.5t, 10.5t, etc.  Always .5.  Sensorless brushless motors are the ones that say kv.  TBLE-02S is good for 17.5t, 15.5t, and 13.5t.  13.5t is equivalent to about 2800 to 3000kv.  So, if you want to keep TBLE-02S, 13.5t is a good upgrade. 

If you want, you can get a cheap 3000-4000kv combo.  Those sensorless brushless motors are often waterproof too.  But there is no free lunch. Sometimes these sensorless brushless motors get "cogging" issues of hesitation especially at low rpm.  For Lunchbox with small pinion, it shouldn't be much of a problem. 

When looking for combo, there are 2 things to be mindful.  1) 3650 size without fins.  That's 36mm x 50mm.  3660, for example, is much larger motor, and you'd need to find a pinion that fits 5mm shaft, instead of the usual 3.18mm.  That's especially difficult for the special Lunchbox pinion.  Also a motor canister with fins contain smaller core.  Get a smooth can.  2) Don't get ESC that's less than 60A.  Often, people focus on KV, so sellers sell 4000kv motor with 45A ESC or even 25A.  That's not very useful, since 4000kv requires about 80Amp, not 45A.  4000kv motor can burn out 25A.  The most I've seen is 60A combo.  So get one with at least 60A, even if the motor has less kv like 3300kv.  These sensorless brushless combos come with a loud fan.  Some people don't mind.  I don't quite like it.  

 

 

 

5) That's TBLE-02S, it's compatible only with "sensored" brushless down to about 13.5t, and regular old school brushed motors down to 23t.  I'd say TBLE-02s with a 13.5t sensored motor is the most popular choice.  Lunchbox was designed for 540 motor with NiCd, originally.  It would do more than well with 13.5t with LiPo.  (I think I have regular 540SH silver can on min. I didn't even install Sport Tuned motor)  TBLE02S doesn't have a fan, so it's quiet.  Many sensored brushless don't come with wires soldered, though.  So you might have to solder wires.  

 

[ThunderDragonCy 7873]

One of these motors will work great with the tble02s, but you will need to solder the cables onto the terminals. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162631223972

 

[Jonnythefox87 61]

32 minutes ago, markbt73 said:

Well, I can't help with the other stuff, but I can help with the alternate bodies... the Lunch Box wheelbase is around 8 inches (205mm), which is within spitting distance of the wheelbase for nearly all 1/12th scale bodies, as well as "short" (210mm) M-chassis bodies. Check out RJ Speed, Parma, and Kamtec for some interesting 1/12 choices.

Keep in mind that you'll probably have to DIY some mounts for a different body. But that's part of the challenge of modifying stuff, isn't it?

http://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4645/Products/K0660

Thanks for your help, would you say this would fit? 

[TurnipJF 9180]

1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

One of these motors will work great with the tble02s, but you will need to solder the cables onto the terminals. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162631223972

 

I'll second that. I have precisely that combo in my DF-02 and it runs great!

[TurnipJF 9180]

54 minutes ago, Jonnythefox87 said:

http://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4645/Products/K0660

Thanks for your help, would you say this would fit? 

Yes it would. Wheelbase is quite flexible since there is no fixed position moulded for the rear wheel arches, so you can line up the front arches with the font axle and then cut rear ones exactly where you need them.

I'd recommend the lexan version of the shell for longevity, and adding a rear wing for looks. This is how the shell looks on my M-06, which is within a few mm of being the same wheelbase as the Lunch Box:

 

[lsear2905 1279]

What are the dimensions of the upper tray at the back of the chassis? I'm thinking of mounting smaller LiPos (I already own) here, rather than trying to find a "rocket" style pack.

If I put a battery strap there it'll be neat, too.

EDIT: While someone has their ruler/calipers out, what's the hole to hole distance for a front chassis brace?

[Biz73 603]

The TBLE-02S isn't waterproof, if that is one of the more important features for you.

Check out the Midnight Pumpkin. Same chassis, just needs different body mounts, which may already be on your parts sprues from the Lunchbox (not sure, just a guess).

[Jonnythefox87 61]

Thanks for all the advice guys, it's cleared up pretty much everything I needed to know! 

With that 13.5 brushless motor mentioned before, would it melt the standard nimh battery fittings? In which case I'd need deans connectors...... 

Last question.... Lipo chargers, I've read stories of cheap ones blowing up the batteries and starting fires etc which obviously I don't want to happen. Any recommendations of certain chargers or brands? Again I don't want or need to spend a lot as its not for racing or anything like that but I don't want a dodgy one that will set fire to my house either

[Biz73 603]

A 13.5 won't melt a Tamiya connector, I have one running on my Midnight Pumpkin with no issues. That said, I am in the process of switching to deans connectors just in case I want to upgrade motors in the future. I heard you get a little power boost just switching over from Tamiya connectors.

[lsear2905 1279]

On 11/5/2019 at 4:19 PM, lsear2905 said:

What are the dimensions of the upper tray at the back of the chassis? I'm thinking of mounting smaller LiPos (I already own) here, rather than trying to find a "rocket" style pack.

If I put a battery strap there it'll be neat, too.

EDIT: While someone has their ruler/calipers out, what's the hole to hole distance for a front chassis brace?

is anyone on here able to measure this for me, please?

[MockTurtle 239]

59x121mm

though i don't think placing the battery there is a good idea. the lunch box is already very top and back-end heavy. i'd rather place weight as far forward and low as possible, especially if you want to run faster motors...

[lsear2905 1279]

1 hour ago, MockTurtle said:

59x121mm

though i don't think placing the battery there is a good idea. the lunch box is already very top and back-end heavy. i'd rather place weight as far forward and low as possible, especially if you want to run faster motors...

Thanks for that - what I'm thinking is I'll just leave an old NIMH battery down low for weight without any cable (it holds no charge) then the small 2200mah LiPo can power the car without making it top heavy. Otherwise I can just put a heap of tire weights at the front! The average weight of a stick pack is about 400g, the 2200mah Lipo is 180g. I'll play around with the weight balance once I start driving it. 

Is the tower to tower distance at the front 95mm? I'm trying to find the appropriate turnbuckle to brace the front towers.

Edited November 7, 2019 by lsear2905
Added weight of batteries

[Biz73 603]

3 hours ago, lsear2905 said:

Is the tower to tower distance at the front 95mm? I'm trying to find the appropriate turnbuckle to brace the front towers.

I used a 72mm turnbuckle with standard Tamiya ends. A 74 would work fine too.

[lsear2905 1279]

OK, this is where I got to last night and this morning before I had to go to work!

It's running, Traxxas "ultra" shocks at all corners and a front chassis brace. I haven't done the 5th shock mod yet - realistically I need to go to a hardware shop as I've run out of the nuts to secure any more shocks. The way the front wheels sit is bonkers - \ / - this is a really interesting design, I can't wait to run it. I haven't secured either the ESC or receiver yet, I'm thinking I might dremel away some of the odd bumps in the chassis that I imagine were for the old days of mechanical speed controllers.

There's a lot to figure out packaging wise, I'm tempted to put the battery right in the centre of the tub and mount the electronics up high, too. I am extraordinarily reluctant to purchase a "rocket" style pack - I would much rather adapt the chassis to a modern battery.

Unfortunately the chassis is probably as far as I'll get for a few days - the weather forecast is for rain for the next week, so no painting.