lifeofbrian2007 64 Posted November 9, 2019 I have a Hobbywing QuicRun 120a ESC a connected to a Turnigy Trackstar 7.5t Sensored motor and no matter what I do (apart from switch the motor wires and go sensorless) the motor always goes much faster in reverse. I have calibrated the Throttle range as per the manual in every way I can think of, with the TX channel 2 reversed and normal, calibrated the throttle reverse instead of forward. It always ends up with the reverse much faster? My TX is a Flysky FS-GT3B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snappy1 966 Posted November 9, 2019 Not sure what the problem is,have you tried swapping the orange and blue motor wires over,so blue to orange, yellow to yellow, orange to blue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lifeofbrian2007 64 Posted November 9, 2019 43 minutes ago, Snappy1 said: Not sure what the problem is,have you tried swapping the orange and blue motor wires over,so blue to orange, yellow to yellow, orange to blue? Yes, and that does work, but as it's a sensored motor I can no longer use the sensor cable and the motor cogs really bad. There must be a way to do it electronically? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juggular 4964 Posted November 9, 2019 Maybe it is the timing? My Trackstar came with timing of 0. But I wonder yours was changed? It's on the motor can. If it's not the timing, then maybe A, B, and C wires were not plugged in the right order? The motor has A, B, and C marked on it. Make sure ABC is soldered with BYO (Blue Yellow Orange) wires in the correct order. Sometimes you get a used one and the wires are soldered with 1 black and 2 red wires. ESC is color coded so you only need to match the correct wires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lifeofbrian2007 64 Posted November 9, 2019 1 hour ago, Juggular said: Maybe it is the timing? My Trackstar came with timing of 0. But I wonder yours was changed? It's on the motor can. If it's not the timing, then maybe A, B, and C wires were not plugged in the right order? The motor has A, B, and C marked on it. Make sure ABC is soldered with BYO (Blue Yellow Orange) wires in the correct order. Sometimes you get a used one and the wires are soldered with 1 black and 2 red wires. ESC is color coded so you only need to match the correct wires. I've checked the wires and timing and they are all correct. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wooders28 4723 Posted November 10, 2019 Have you tried the esc in forward / brake only? (Just to make sure forward is forward) Other than that, End Points on the transmitter? (Throttle @80% and/or brakes on 150% etc) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nbTMM 433 Posted November 10, 2019 As above, first check that forward is actually forward by changing the running mode in the ESC settings to forward/brake only. On most sensored systems, the direction that the motor rotates is non-negotiable as the motors run advanced timing and make more power/rpm in what is considered the forward direction. The 10BL120 is no exception - there is no setting to make a sensored motor rotate backwards, so forwards is permanently mapped to one direction and brake/reverse to the other. You can't swap the motor wires on a sensored system like you can with a sensorless - doing that will make it run poorly if at all because the windings won't be timed correctly with the sensors. If you swap the direction of the throttle channel on the transmitter, then the ESC thinks you're reversing when moving forwards and may impose a limit on the amount of throttle and you'd only get brakes when reversing (when the ESC thinks the car is going forwards). You can program the ESC to run forward/reverse only (no brake) and set the reversing speed to 100%, but then the motor would also be running with retarded timing when going forwards, and advanced timing when reversing so it would go faster in reverse and run hot/inefficiently when going forwards. The compromise then is to set the timing on the endbell to 0degrees (and disable any turbo/boost timing in the ESC) so the motor makes as much power in both directions. Be aware that the minimum mark on the endbell may not correspond to 0degrees, but instead be 10-20degrees on some motors. Some motors may also physically prevent you adjusting the timing all the way down to 0deg. Also, many shaft driven Tamiya chassis you can install the diff(s) backwards, which will change the direction that the motor needs to rotate. Maybe you've installed your diffs backwards? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites