SRB Balldiff - ???

[Ferris]

quote:

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Originally posted by Live Steam Mad

WOW Ferris, any chance of scanning that article and posting it onto image shack or something (see 1st post) so that we can all see it, at 300 dpi preferably. I would love to see a geared SRB diff.

---

If you could scan it in you could put it in the vintage media section of TamiyaClub.

I can send you a jpg if you want, I have just tried to email you but i am un-sure if it was sent sucessfully.  Also tried to add to the Vintage Media section but cant see it there now...?

cheers,

Ferris

[Live Steam Mad]

Hi, You won't see it in the Vintage Media section anywhere near straight away since it uploads it to the moderators, not to the TC site, and so they have to approve it first and they are busy guys, especially Chris who is busy trying to iron out some bugs in this new forum system.

Actually, I thought that the whole point of having this new forum system was that one of the benefits was that we could post JPEG's right here (they no longer have to be hosted).

However I tried this for my diff. pictures below and I couldn't work out how to do it! Help! So I had to host them on my very limited bandwidth site.

Alternatively, if you upload it to imageshack (the thing that the person used, who started this topic, for his piccies - see the first page of this topic) then we could all see it.

I would dearly love to see this geared diff. in this advert.

On a separate note, my Ball Diff. arrived a few weeks ago. It is indeed by MIP, so it appears. Nice machining! I spent the first 10 minutes trying in vein to adjust it with a small flat bladed screwdriver, until I then finally twigged that you need an Allen key of the correct size instead. Doah! Then I was able to adjust the diff. to my heart's content. It has a silky smooth action and can be set from very tight to very free. It's not a geared diff. that I really would have preferred, but I feel very pleased that I managed to get one of any diff. at all for the SRB.

I took the Ranger chassis apart to get at the gearbox and install the ball diff. My whole XLT still a dry assembly with plastic bearings for the meanwhile (currently waiting for my ballraces to arrive from Walawala store, they were a mere 4 GBP per set with their Special 20 per cent discount offer!) until I have painted the body and then it will get ball races and I will seal up the gearbox for good with Silicone Sealant like you are supposed to, dispensed with a small syringe (pinched from the school Chemistry lab 13 years ago LOL, well I passed Chem'y. at 'A' level so I think I am entitled to a 'free gift' as a reward 8-) ) from a huge tube of white SS for bathrooms and kitchens.

I have now installed the diff. and it's a perfect fit. I did have one major problem though at first - the flats on the 2 output shafts either side are very shallow on the MIP ball diff. (not 1/2 the shaft end, like the original Final Shaft is) and as a result the grub screws in the Universal Joints stick out more than they did before, and on one side the result was that the grub screw was thus rubbing on the bottom of the clear case (over the gearing), which was very annoying [:'(]. I had to get busy with the small set of 3 Tamiya fine files and rectify this by filing away about a 1/8th inch squared area of the bottom of the clear case.

I carefully filed down the clear gearcase in one small spot and it **JUST** had enough clearance to clear the grub screw. Crikey it was by the skin of my teeth, the gearcase was very nearly penetrated, but fortunately not actuallly. There must have been like 0.1mm left !  It was a tricky job. Fortunately you can't see any evidence of this modification when it's complete and assembled etc..

Now the wheels go round perfectly without any binding due to the grub screw.

I found that I had the diff way too slack. After some adjustment I now have it perfectly adjusted to my liking, it works very well. I am a very happy customer! 

My TC pal Mike said to me ;-"Why are you so bothered about the fact that it is a ball differential instead of a geared diff.?"

I replied "In general I am not overly keen on ball diff's for a couple of reasons... a) I have to set the diff. to be slack enough so that when I am on any indoors surface such as my vinyl flooring in my kitchen, the diff. is slack enough to still allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. If the diff. is too tight then one tyre is dragged around the corner (as it were) and there is no diff. action. However when I set it slack enough to achieve the above, then it acts like a poor torque converter (i.e. fluid clutch / hydraulic oil / impeller blades set up) on an automatic gearbox, in the sense that there is a lot of slip in the drive (kind of like a slipper clutch) and you can't climb steep gradients or get one wheel to drive over an obstacle since the drive to the back wheels slips... A proper geared diff. does NOT SLIP, EVER, and gives correct differential action, permamently.

and Real vehicles DO NOT USE ball diffs. Ever. This bothers me since I am always wanting maximum realism...! Some vehicles do have limited slip diffs, but they must use a

different mechanism (clutch plates / spring), see ;-

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential8.htm

Here are some pictures of the ball diff. as it came. It shows the 2 other shafts and gears that the seller included that match this diff. ;-

http://www.geocities.com/prescotmes/IMG_1211_small.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/prescotmes/IMG_1212_small.jpg

Yet another milestone completed on the Ranger Resto!

I am really going to try and avoid running my XLT on a beach near salt water, since someone said that it severley damages the ball diff., but if I get a Sand Scorcher then it is going to have no diff., so that I don't have this problem, since I want to run on beaches with a Scorcher [].

OK also found out tonight that this same seller has another SRB diff. for sale now as well. This time it is a different one than the MIP one that he last sold me some weeks ago. Where the badword is he getting them from, that's what I want to know [8-)]?!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[MikeT]

Hi Al, and others!

Yeah, i am very interested in a differential for my Sand Scorcher, and surely, if the gearbox is sealed with silicon sealant, as per manual, and the diff is greased with molebdenum grease, then surely that will keep the NaCl and H20 out of the ball differential, and anyone who isn't too good at science, NaCl is sodium chloride ( salt, salty stuff, ya put on chips  ) and H20 is water, (wet stuff, comes out of taps).

Yeah, and on Sand and other loose surfaces, it will be much harder to control the car under power having no differential, but make it easier to spin out.

And Ali.G, i know what you mean now about a ball diff, you'd have to dis-assemble the gearbox when you wanted to change running surfaces! This could get very annoying from say playing in the garden with little stone and goin' nice and slowly, to blasting on the beach, with the car sideways, kickin' up sand with full opposite lock! Which isn't likely for you really, thats far too obnoxious for these scale models aint it Only kiddin' matey

Alistair, email me with contact details for the bloke with the SRB Diff, as when my TT01 is sold i would love to buy it! assuming he'll still haveit at the end of the month, also.. i would take it to a machinist and see how much it would be to make a batch of 50 or so!!!

Thanks,

Mike

[Toykid]

Hi Mike,

Careful - I made the same mistake thinking the Silicone and grease would save the diff.It was the last run, where I had very carefully waterproofed my SS exactly as you discribed, that after a few weeks found the diff to have completly been ruined. After many beach runs with many different levels of waterproofing, I have found that nothing is better for the car than a complete strip down and clean after a good sand salt and sea session.

Be carefull out there!

[jacolouw]

Hi all

Hmmmm - saw the topic and was not sure if I must stick my head into this "bee nest" again, but well here goes.

If the interested is enough from the forum, Im sure (or at least Ill die trying) the manufacturer of the SRB diffs I got previously may have another run, or look for more in his HUGE warehouse - where only he knows whats where!!!!  Here's a pic.

Jakes

 

 

 

[Shodog]

Jakes, seeing all those ball diffs together in one place is enough to give an SRB collector some wood.[:$]

[jacolouw]

Jim

Always glad to help a fellow member LOL

JAkes

 

[MikeT]

"Jakes, seeing all those ball diffs together in one place is enough to give an SRB collector some wood"

No Jokin' Mate!

Jakes, How much mate? i'll buy one any day, maybe two!!!!!!!

[Live Steam Mad]

Hiya Jakes,

>Hmmmm - saw the topic and was not sure if I must stick my head into this "bee nest" again, but well here goes.

I am always happy to see another SRB enthusiast!  We welcome your comments.

>If the interested is enough from the forum, Im sure (or at least Ill die trying) the manufacturer of the SRB diffs I got previously may have another run, or look for more in his HUGE warehouse - where only he knows whats where!!!!  Here's a pic.

Put me down for 1, at least, FOR SURE. Paypal available...

That goes with the one that I've got and the other one that I am trying to get my hands on, so then I would have 3 ball diff's but only 1 SRB that they can go in LOL. God I need a RR and a SS and a SC. The seller that I got the previous MIP diff. from is offering me a SC, and I might well take him up on his offer.

I WISH that I could find the legendary GEARED SRB Diff. though!

Hiya Mike - Unfortunately you can't put Molybdenum DiSulphide (my favourite lubricant) (the black stuff) (resists pressures of 100,000 PSI and temperatures of 350 degrees C) in a ball diff. to protect it either, because, as one guy on TC had to remind me in one of these similar Forum topics, the whole basis of the ball diff. is that it uses pressure from the sides of the diff. to transmit the drive, and the MdS lubricant is so good that all drive would be lost to the back axle!!!

However a geared diff. should surely have no problem in this regard. You could protect it with lots of loverly thick Molybd. DiSulph. and there is not a thing on Earth that could go wrong, since the few drips of salt water that manage to get in then could not get at the diff., surely ?  Also the drive would not slip like crazy when under load, unlike a ball diff. !!!

So it looks like Geared Diff. = BEACH TIME at Southport for me and Mike!!!

Only problem is that I have never seen a geared diff. being offered for sale on TC or Ebay. However I am a relative newcomer to TC (only joined in Autumn 2004) so the SRB's are still 'new' to me. I remember seeing adverts on the back of R/C magazines about the SRB's featuring the red and yellow Bug (used to stare at it for hours!), but that was back in 1986 approx., when I was 12 years old, and I never knew about the SRB chassis until recent times...

Cheers,

Ali. G.

[MikeT]

Hi All,

I think it would be better without a Diff on a beach to be honest al, well, it would be better without a ball diff, as we all know they are impossible to set to a nice " middle " of slip and grip ( rhymed ) and on sand there would be alot of unloading to one wheel.

Al, your trying to get ANOTHER DIFF? Let me get one ya greedy sod Are you trying to accumulate all of the SRB parts into your house? LOL

Yeah, Jakes, put me down for a few too!

And Al, you really don't need one of Every SRB, after my scorcher is complete, ( SOON ) i only want a Rough Rider, then im done, the SC doesn't appeal to me for some reason? Maybe it's the lack of sealed radio box, maybe? Who Knows ? ( Twilight Zone Theme Tune Plays )

Mike

[DJTheo]

Imho most ball diffs were better then geared ones, as you can adjust them pretty tight to give limited slip action in loose surface but not too tight for them to work on good traction surfaces.

But now with Tamiya-AW grease you can actually get similar results in geared diffs, only the diff has to be a closed construction for the thick grease not to fly out on the rest of the gearbox. Also due to the viscosity of the grease you can get a speed dependant behaviour, not tight on small speed differences and tighter on high [H]

Cheers

[MikeT]

Hi Theo,

I Understand what you are saying, but i think im going to have to agree with Ali on this one ( don't like to, but sometimes you've gotta ) i would prefer a geared diff over a ball differentail to be honest, it give a better differential action, and NEVER Slips, where as an ill setup on a ball diff will slip all of your power away, or give hardly any differential action! Where as; with a GEARED diff, this give differential action all the time and never slips/locks, and i can't believe i just typed out how two differentials work to a Rc-collector,who has probably been doin this longer than me. Ah Well.

As you can see, i would rather have a Nodis Geared Differential, well any Differential at the moment, but thats beside the point, if i had to pic out of the two, i'd have the Geared diff.

Mike

[T.C~Tamiya]

i would prefer a geared diff over a ball differentail to be honest, it give a better differential action, and NEVER Slips

Never had a Frog then []

[Live Steam Mad]

Hi Mike,

>Never had a Frog then

I think that what (Toby ? think I have that right?) means is that the side plates on the gearbox on the Frog start to separate (i.e. bow outwards, because of reaction forces from the shape of the gearteeth on the 3 small bevel bears onto the 2 large bevel gears, seeing as how the gearbox side plates are quite thin metal) with high power motors, and they are the only thing holding the diff. gears in place (no separate diff. "holder" / "case") and so the gears can start to slip and grind to dust!  Only with high power / torque motors though, surely?! []

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Toykid]

guys,

I totally agree with all the points of view being expressed here. It is horses for courses at the end of the day. Each set up has pros and cons. But, what is all this talk about a ball diff slipping all of your power away, or giving hardly any differential action? When a ball diff is set up correctly you get great differential action without the slip.

James.

PS: Where can I get my hands on some more SRB ball diffs. Put me down for at least two.

[terry.sc]

Seems to be several opinions on the merits of ball and gear diffs here.

First, a QUALITY ball diff built with the proper grease can be set

loose enough to enable you to spin the wheels like a gear diff can, yet

have absolutely no slip whatsoever. I was amazed years ago when I first

got my RC10 and felt how free the ball diff was while not slipping, I

never knew you could build ball diffs that smooth. If a ball diff needs

overtightening to get drive it is either worn out or the wrong greases

have been used.

Gear diffs have one major advantage over ball diffs, that is they can

go for ages without any maintenance. Ball diffs do need regular

maintenance to keep them working well.

On a smooth, high grip surface, such as carpet, if you get plenty of

traction from your tyres there will be no discernable difference

between a gear diff and a ball diff set quite free, in fact a gear diff

will generally respond faster than a ball diff so a gear diff can be

the best choice assuming you have plenty of grip from the tyres. If

your tyres do not give plenty of grip and they can wheelspin the ball

diff has an advantage as it can be adjusted so you do not lose

acceleration when a tyre spins. With a gear diff when one tyre spins

all the power goes to that spinning tyre and none to the one with grip.

On bumpy surfaces ball diffs have an advantage as it can be adjusted to

provide some limited slip effect. When a buggy goes over a bump one

wheel can lift off the ground. With a gear diff all power goes to the

wheel in the air and none to the wheel on the ground so you lose

forward traction. This is even more pronounced in the SRBs as the

suspension is terrible and it bounces often. A ball diff allows you to

tighten it up to make sure you always get power going to the ground.

On low grip bumpy surfaces such as sand the gear diff is actually the

worst drive setup, for fun bashing even the solid standard setup is

better as it will give drive at all times. Using a gear diff on loose

sand as soon as one wheel starts to slip all the power will go to that

wheel and it will dig itself into the ground. The other wheel will not

get any drive at all. Using a ball diff you can adjust it to give less

diff action so you get plenty of drive.

Actually ball diffs slipping can be an advantage. On low grip surfaces

if you do not have a slipper clutch in the transmission you can loosen

the ball diff to limit how much power can be sent to the tyres so you

can prevent the car spinning out. With gear diffs you just don't have

this option.

[Live Steam Mad]

Hi, I just sealed the deal on my 2nd SRB diff., this time it's a Thorp ball diff. 

Here is news article on TC from the UK magazine "R/C Model Cars" from 1982 showing the Thorp ball diff. ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getarticleimage....005194558_1.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=175

Woah! So my ball diff. was 29.99 GBP when it was new and is now 24 years old!!!

On the subject about getting the ball diff. and finding that it is a sort of compromise compared to having a geared diff. (at least in my own mind, for when running indoors on my kitchen floor - linoleum - smooth low grip surface, where I want to retain differential action and not have 1 wheel get dragged around the circle and get a larger turning circle than I would have compared to if I used a geared diff. which has full differential action on this surface and has a tight turning circle), I don't see as there is anything that I can do about it. Maybe taking my MIP diff. apart and doing some maintenance on it / cleaning it may improve it? Really though, I don't want to take the diff. apart, for 3 main reasons ;-

1) I don't know how to take it apart as it came with no instructions (if you ever find any instruction sheet online scanned by someone, for a MIP SRB ball diff. then please let me know),

2) I am to scarred to take it apart just incase I can't get it back together again, and

3) I can't really regrease it as I don't know what the badword grease it is supposed to take since I have no instructions for it [:'(]

This MIP diff. is probably over 20 years old and I don't know if it's worn or not! Good job I got it for an acceptable (to me at least) price then!

The turning circle *is* improved by having the ball diff., compared to the non-diff. stock kit SRB, so I would much rather have one than not have one.

Maybe the Thorp diff. will be better i.e. allow diff. action on smooth low grip surfaces like linoleum on my kitchen floor, whilst still maintaining drive over obstacles? However if you think about it for a moment, these are 2 mutually exclusive properties that surely (?) cannot be simultaneously accomodated simply because of how a ball diff. works!!

Maybe if I try the Thorp ball diff. when I get it and if the action on it is just the same as the MIP

ball diff. then I could take the Thorp diff. apart and try and do some maintenance on it, but then I would have the same concerns as in the above for the MIP diff., except that I see that the instruction sheet is on TC ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getarticleimage....004214535_1.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=97

...and so I could probably disassemble and reassemble it without any trouble (it looks a LOT easier to do this with than the MIP diff), although as far as regreasing it is concerned, note that the advert and instructions for the Thorp diff. don't appear to stipulate any grease being needed at all?

With the diff's though, I did incredibly well, I mean 2 SRB ball diff's (rare, but how rare I have no idea) of 2 different brands, for just over 100 GBP? Amazing!!  Put it this way, I am not complaining.

Mind you I am a carer so my income is very low so I could not have afforded any more at the moment.

Pity I can't seem to get hold of the SRB geared diff. which would solve my problems completely!

However I am grateful to be able to find or afford ANY SRB diff., at ALL! Having 2 of them makes me very happy. If I ever decide to sell one I think it should go to Mike T. since he asked me first.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

 

[Ferris]

Hi,

 

I have the instructions for my Thorp diff on its way this week (from the original owner), so mail me and I will send you a pdf or copy of it.

cheers,

Ferris

[Ferris]

Hi, I just sealed the deal on my 2nd SRB diff., this time it's a Thorp ball diff. 

Here is news article on TC from the UK magazine "R/C Model Cars" from 1982 showing the Thorp ball diff. ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getarticleimage....005194558_1.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=175

Woah! So my ball diff. was 29.99 GBP when it was new and is now 24 years old!!!

Looking at those links LSM... My RR (in my showroom), has almost all of them :-)

Thorp Diff; Thorp Rear Wing; Top-Hat Bushes; MIP Radio Crate (new - never fitted); Front Bumper (not fitted at the moment); and the HD Track-Rod set.  I am waiting for the time to restore the car.. plus I have some CRP coil over conversions to go on too.

So what grease should I put in this Thorp diff?

Ferris 

[DJTheo]

As Terry said if a ball diff is well designed and assembled it never slips, even my old '91 TA01 Schnitzer and Saint Dragon ones still work with no problems at all.

Alistair, those diffs aren't complicated as a Hilux 3 speed gearbox, so don't be afraid, just open them up, clean them and use some Tamiya ball diff grease, if you plan to run them, it would be a shame if it starts slipping and wearing due to non-servicing and old/bad greases.

Cheers

[terry.sc]

Really though, I don't want to take the diff. apart, for 3 main reasons ;-

1) I don't know how to take it apart as it came with no instructions

(if you ever find any instruction sheet online scanned by someone, for

a MIP SRB ball diff. then please let me know),

2) I am to scarred to take it apart just incase I can't get it back together again, and

3) I can't really regrease it as I don't know what the badword grease

it is supposed to take since I have no instructions for it [:'(]

They aren't that complicated, just lay the parts out in the order

you take them apart so you know which order to put them back together.

For grease use any ball diff grease. Most manufacturers make their

own version of ball diff grease. Ball diff grease is designed to allow

the the balls to press against the washers to give drive. Any other

grease will not work. At the time the diffs were made specific ball

diff grease was not around, so using a modern grease designed for it

will give better performance than it originally had.

Ferris has emailed me his info on the Nodis gear diff so here it is.

Priced at £20 it's cheaper than the ball diffs but was still expensive

at the time. Remember an SRB kit cost £64

[Live Steam Mad]

WOAH!! My dream diff. Wonder who the badword I could buy one of them from ? LOL. PLEASE!!

I wonder how rare the Nodis ones are? If anyone out there has a Nodis one then do you fancy swapping it for my MIP or Thorp ball diff's?  Well, doesn't hurt to ask does it, you never know.

On a separate note, I just figured out why the flats on both ends of the MIP diff. are so shallow and make the grub screws on the U.J.'s stick out so much (and why I had to modify my clear gear case to stop the grub screw rubbing against it thus stopping the wheels from going round!)... It's simply because one end of the ball diff. output shaft has to be hollow (tube like) so that you can get an Allen key into it (in the case of the MIP diff.) in order that you can adjust it properly!! Doah!

I also see that the Thorp diff. is identical in this respect, and also has shallow flats on both ends of the diff. !  (i.e. Thorp one has a cap screw, turned by an Allen key, that you stick down the output shaft to adjust the diff. with). So I assume that I will need to modify the clear gear case again if I fit the Thorp one to a second SRB (MIP one is in my one and only SRB, my XLT).

Also (after Theo's kind prompting) I only just thought on (Doah!) that Tamiya's own "Ball Diff. Grease" would be fine for these MIP and Thorp SRB ball diff's and I have some that I can 'purloin' from various NIB kits LOL.

Oh yeah and another thing to add, I reckon that for those of you that find that you like the way that the SRB handles on the coastal sandy beach (i.e. near salt water) with a ball diff., then it might be an idea to NOT use any Silicone sealant at all on the 2 gearcase halves, just grease the edges instead when you mate the 2 gearcase halves, and then it might just be about "splash proof" and would allow very easy stripping down when you come home, and you could IMMEDIATELY strip and clean the ball diff. to make sure that the salt does not corrode it, as it would do (just like "Toykid" says) if you left the ball diff. in the car for weeks after.

Cheers,

Ali. G.

[MikeT]

"to make sure that the salt does not corrode it, as it would do (just like "Toykid" says) if you left the ball diff. in the car for weeks after"

Yeah, does anyone know how long it would take for NaCl to corrode the diff. balls and pressure plates? What are these made form, i know on the Thorp? the centre gear is brass.

That NODIS gear diff is nothing like i imagined, i thought of a bevel geared diff, like the other tamiya cars that came with a differential as standard!

And Al, if your that worried about your diff balls ( lol ) then theres nothing stopping you taking a bottle of fresh water to the seaside and at the end of the day rinsing your gearbox/diffs thouroughly, even if you just tipped water into to motor hole and rotated the gears. This would atleast make the concentration of NaCl to H20 Lower.

Or Even WD40, * Zips up flame suite * it displaces water  ( WD- Water Displacement ) ( 40 - they worked out the formula on the 40th attempt ) would this remove the water and leave the salt though?

Mike

 

 

 

[Live Steam Mad]

>diff. balls and pressure plates? What are these made from?

I am guessing that the diff. balls are hardened Martensitic Stainless Steel, for example ;-

http://www.stainless-steel-world.net/basic...martensitic.asp

http://www.alleghenyludlum.com/ludlum/page...roductLine.html

Martensitic Stainless Steel is magnetic and must be used to make my "Kitchen Devils" brand scissors I think since they are magnetic (just tested them) and thinking about it the cutting edges would have to be hardened, just like the hardened Stainless Steel on my Mitutoyo 150 mm dial callipers. Since my knives & forks in my kitchen are also magnetic, it must also be used in cuttlery I think.

Austenitic (generally 18:8) Stainless Steel accounts for 70 per cent of production but is NOT hardenable by heat treatment, and diff. balls must surely have to be hardened ;-

http://www.stainless-steel-world.net/basic..._austenitic.asp

You can tell which is which since Martensitic is magnetic and Austenitic is non-magnetic (these two have different crystal structures and vary in the composition of the alloy). So if they are attracted to the motor's magnets then you know which one it is. I tested my 1949 Council House's kitchen sink and found it to be non-magnetic so it must be 18:8 Austenitic Stainless steel I presume...

I have always wondered as to how salt (which has Na+  ions and Cl-  ions and thus cancel each other out, electrically and thus is pH neutral I think so is neither acid nor alkali) manages to corrode metals quite so badly?  Can anyone please tell me why? I wasn't taught about salt corrosion in Chemistry lessons...!

>That NODIS gear diff is nothing like i imagined, i thought of a bevel geared diff, like the other tamiya cars that came with a differential as standard!

Yeah I can't quite get my head around how the badword that one works, but I am fairly sure that that *particular design* of differential is a very old design (in engineering terms) and has been used on other differentials many years ago in 1:1 vehicles and must be a very old invention. I can't believe that Nodis just spontaneously invented it out of the blue unless they were absolute geniuses!  Anyone know where that particular design of diff. dates back to or any other 1:1 vehicle that used it? Anyone got a web link to that particular design of diff. to show me how it works?

Interesting things! Good topic this, I'm having a lot of fun!

>even if you just tipped water into to motor hole and rotated the gears. This would atleast make the concentration of NaCl to H20 Lower.

Absolutely it would, pure logic. One cannot deny facts.

>Or Even WD40, * Zips up flame suite * it displaces water  ( WD- Water Displacement ) ( 40 - they worked out the formula on the 40th attempt ) would this remove the water and leave the salt though?

Oh flaming badword, so *that's* how WD 40 works and why it is called what it is! Interesting!  No idea what it would do with the salt LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[terry.sc]

>That NODIS gear diff is nothing

like i imagined, i thought of a bevel geared diff, like the other

tamiya cars that came with a differential as standard!

Yeah I can't quite get my head around how the badword that one works,

but I am fairly sure that that *particular design* of differential is a

very old design (in engineering terms) and has been used on other

differentials many years ago in 1:1 vehicles and must be a very old

invention. I can't believe that Nodis just spontaneously invented it

out of the blue unless they were absolute geniuses!  Anyone know

where that particular design of diff. dates back to or any other 1:1

vehicle that used it? Anyone got a web link to that

particular design of diff. to show me how it works?

Interesting things! Good topic this, I'm having a lot of fun!

The same design of diff was used in the Avante range of cars. Gives a

very compact design. Nodis always machined their gears and this costs a

lot less than machined bevel gears.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getimage.asp?t=1...71451&r=700