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graemevw

Hard body paint

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I have a hard body to paint black. I want it as perfect as i can.

I normally use halfords cans on hard bodies, seem to do a decent job. But im a little concerned about paint thickness.

Only time ive used tamiya TS paints was yellow on a lunchbox. I quite liked the paint finish but as it was so thin it took alot of coats to cover.

How is the tamiya TS black and laquer?

Anyone got enough experience of these to suggest which is likely to give the best results between TS and halfords cans?

Thanks.

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I would honestly stick to halfords. I have painted a couple of hard shells using TS paints and wished I hadnt in the end as it cost a fortune. I can see the advantage on scale modelling where you dont need a great quantity of paint and you want specific colours ie for military greens etc but for a large 1:10 scale kit where there is a lot of shell to cover i would stick with car body paints

Edit to add one of the bodies I painted was also TS camel yellow. It wasnt a good experience as Its practically transparent and didnt cover very well over a white primer and looked slightly greeny. It was only later that i discovered halfords do a yellow primer for plastic that would have been perfect.

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I've used Tamiya TS black and Halfords. I got the best finish with the Halfords metallic black (think it was a BMW COLOUR) with gloss over the top. All primed with Halfords grey plastic primer. From a purely monetary point of view the Halfords are way better value and a massive selection of colours. I've no pics sadly as I trashed that body! I do have a pic of my Pumpkin I did with Halford Metalic grey and gloss overcoat. 

DSC_0005

 

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Im not overly fussed about it costing a bit more, i still think 1 can of colour and 1 can of clear will be enough (1/12 lambo shell), im just concerned about the thickness build up, especially with the clear.

Its not so much the paint, mor that car cans are designed to lay down more paint.

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Personally I like Tamiya paints - I find the car cans put it on quite heavy, which, with things at such a small scale, means some detail can be lost if you aren't careful.

The Tamiya cans seems to give a nice light spray (especially if you warm the cans up first) which yes, means you have to give it a few more coats, but I'd rather add paint than try and take it away.....

I always go over with a couple of coats of clear and once flatted back and polished this will give a glass finish:

File_000(1) File_000 (5)

 

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From my 1/24 experience - if using hardware/automotive sprays I tend to decant and use an airbrush just to have control over consistency. But its just so much hassle. These days I just use tamiya TS straight from the can. The paint quality is consistent and the nozzle is great. Sometimes the cheaper cans tend to sputter.

Sure it doesn't lay it on thick but I think that is by the design.

Also the TS cans give out the least obnoxious fumes!

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Ill give TS a go this time. I did like it on the lunchbox apart from coverage, but i think that was a yellow issue.

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You can use acrylic or polyurethane automotive paints. I use polyurethane on both hard shells and polycarbonate with no problems. Cheaper, you can mix colors, shinier finish and more durable too.

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3 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

Personally I like Tamiya paints - I find the car cans put it on quite heavy, which, with things at such a small scale, means some detail can be lost if you aren't careful.

The Tamiya cans seems to give a nice light spray (especially if you warm the cans up first) which yes, means you have to give it a few more coats, but I'd rather add paint than try and take it away.....

I always go over with a couple of coats of clear and once flatted back and polished this will give a glass finish:

File_000(1) File_000 (5)

 

Got to say, thats basically exactly the finish im after. It just looks thinner, more 'water like' and more scale than using automotive cans. I know automotive paint will do that look, but probably not from an aerosol.

Its hard to describe exactly why it looks different, but to my eyes, it does.

I did my blackfoot with halfords cans and its great, but it looks a little swamped in paint, like its been dipped.

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I really like the thin coats that I can get with TS or an airbrush. It really makes the body pop. Big rattle cans shoot so much paint that all of the sharpness gets lost.

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fwiw. I'll give my experience too, although it basically echos the above posts - generally I've always used car paint - Halfords when in the UK certainly - and got good results, but then I tend to go for the weathered look anyway so am not so bothered about the final finish...

However, the last couple of builds I've used Tamiya TS paints - and yes, they are much more expensive (well the same price as Halfords for about a third of the volume size can!), but I would agree with others that the spray seems to be finer and more consistent, so better if your body has a lot of moulded details I'm sure.

Another suggestion to consider - which I read on the SBG forum recently - is to stand your cans (whichever ones you use) in some hot water before spraying, (and don't forget to shake them really well too) - to improve the flow/spray. 

Hope that helps...

Jenny x

 

 

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16 hours ago, JennyMo said:

is to stand your cans (whichever ones you use) in some hot water before spraying, (and don't forget to shake them really well too) - to improve the flow/spray. 

Also make sure the area you are spraying in is warm enough. If its either too cool or damp gloss paints can take on a sort of bloom which is almost impossible to polish out. Alot of scale aircraft/car modellers tend to use matt paints for colour and then clear gloss on top, finished with clear(Klear) floor polish. This would be ok for shelf queens but not sure how it would handle wet conditions.

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If you want the paint to stick then you need to prime the body. If you don’t, the paint pulls away from the edges.  I only use Tamiya paints because I haven’t found any good alternatives in a rattle can the thinner paint goes on smooth and doesn’t gum up the details.

 

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Just bought the paint, so TS it is. 

Now the only question is if 1 can of colour and 1 can of clear is enough. I think it will, but it will be close!

For the sake of completeness ill report back with results in a week or so when its done.

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the last time i used ts paint was on my grand hauler shell and it cracked/split witch i ended up buying new shell and since then i use custom mixed paint. i do also use wilco's own spray cans esp the black for undercoating and the wilco's paint is only around £5 for a 400ml can but the custom mixed is dearer but the finish i have got if well worth the extra expense. i will never use tamiya ts paint again

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18 minutes ago, topforcein said:

the last time i used ts paint was on my grand hauler shell and it cracked/split witch i ended up buying new shell and since then i use custom mixed paint. i do also use wilco's own spray cans esp the black for undercoating and the wilco's paint is only around £5 for a 400ml can but the custom mixed is dearer but the finish i have got if well worth the extra expense. i will never use tamiya ts paint again

Did the paint crack/split or the body?

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21 hours ago, graemevw said:

Did the paint crack/split or the body?

it was the ts paint that cracked/split and it was all over the shell and the wheel fenders. i did try another tamiya can last year for my bruiser as i brought some fender flairs  and painted them but again the paint even still to this day feels sticky on them so as i said i won't use tamiya paint again.

i have had nothing but excelant  results with the custom paints i have mixed up here is the last truck i used custom paints onIMG_20170705_163858.thumb.jpg.e31975f3c52902c1b8fa4cf043b8d589.jpg

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On 11/20/2019 at 7:29 AM, topforcein said:

it was the ts paint that cracked/split and it was all over the shell and the wheel fenders. 

Sounds like your primer wasn’t compatible with the TS paint.  I’ve had great results with Tamiya paint but a lot of the finished product is a result depends on careful body preparation 

 

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I don't think you can beat the spray quality of a Tamiya rattle can.  As other's mentioned, not laying it on thick helps keep the details of the body sharp and visible.  I've also learned from experience to keep the paints and primers you're going to use on a project the same brand and type of paint so compatibility issues aren't a concern.  Just my experience.

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10 hours ago, Shodog said:

Sounds like your primer wasn’t compatible with the TS paint.  I’ve had great results with Tamiya paint but a lot of the finished product is a result depends on careful body preparation 

 

well i used tamiya fine surface primer that time.

below if the finish i got the second time around useing wilko's white surface primer a 400ml can not the automotive stuff the hobby one and the the paint was a body shop supplyer called jawel with just happened to sell house of colour paint so the colour coat is that and the black base is what they sold and the clear is 2k clear and that is how it finished out of the can i did not have to do anything to get that finish other that apply from the can and that kind of finish is why i will never use tamiya paint again and that is the roof spoiler from my grand hauler

 

IMG_20180420_142443.thumb.jpg.82491acb2c2cc08c54549d87d28257cf.jpg

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I used hycote white plastic primer off amazon for my undercoat £5 delivered)

Hycote White Plastic Primer , 400ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LD8YAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NPh3Db5HKZ9AV

and for my latest project I’ve sprayed The whole space frame of my new wild one in matte black plasti-kote (£6 delivered)

Hycote White Plastic Primer , 400ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LD8YAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NPh3Db5HKZ9AV

on my lunch box re re that I got 12 years ago, I just used a ford yellow with no primer and it’s still looking great (it’s a shall Queen - well a lift queen really)

JJ

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