ALMOST full locking of BFX Diff

[F-150]

I built a new Black foot xtreme and packed the diff right full of grease and packed it in hard as I could in hopes this might give me some "Posi effect" but allow a small amount of "give" to protect stuff and let iit coast around corners a little better. I was going to go full locked, but wanted to try this first.

 Done it before?  Is this a mistake?  

 Lets hear your performance and methods from locking or semi locking diffs.

[Juggular]

That's a really awesome idea.  Companies like Subaru does all it can do to achieve just what you are trying to do.  Other companies try their best too. (But generally Subaru comes out on top)   

Limited Slip Differentials (LSD) are "best of both worlds."  Technically speaking, every diff should be LSD.  The reason why most cars don't have LSD is because they are expensive and heavier.  Regular diff is never ideal, but it's cheap, and it does well in dry conditions.  Wet, muddy, sandy, and snowy conditions?  Regular diff is no good.  Locked diff is also no good: it's only good for muddy, sandy and rocky terrain, but no good on road and ice.  Tamiya gives you a bottle of 100,000 weight oil in M07 chassis kit to give some resistance to the differential.  

German Kubelwagen served from snowy Russia to sandy North Africa.  It was a 2WD vehicle, but it did almost as well as a 4x4.  All thanks to mechanical LSD, portal gears, flat bottom and light weight.  If you can upgrade your Blackfoot Xtreme to that level without spending a lot of money, more power to you, right? (quite literally, your wheels get more power!)  

I use "Badhorsie Diff lock grease." But it cannot really lock it. 

It's just about right for heavy Wild Willy 2.  It used to wheelie and then stand on one wheel & the wheelie bar.  Because of diff unloading, I had to walk over and put it down.  With this grease, one wheel on the ground has enough power to topple itself down from the tail-sitting position.  

AW grease is the weakest, so it's good for on-road touring cars like M05 and M06. 

3Racing Ultra High viscosity diff oil is a lot more stickier than AW.  So I use it for off-roaders only.  

And there are differential "clays" too.  I'm using some other brand, but Tamiya sells diff clay also.   

I used this for Konghead because it's a heavy truck.  With this clay in the diffs, Konghead could be almost like a crawler.  

Limited Slip Differentials are really good at reducing the power loss.  

I have a CC01 with locked diffs, but I might put clays in them because locked diffs make it tipsy.  

 

[markbt73]

There's a much less messy way: replace one of the outer wahsers on the backside of the big gears with a thin O-ring. The old-style RC10 shock cap O-rings are a perfect fit. Grease it up well, and it will create a sort of "clutch-pack" type of limited slip diff. Works great, and easier to reverse than cleaning off all that goo.

[F-150]

I'm going to fill up the diff with epoxy and be done with it.  Full, locked Diff without buying a hop-up part. I want to see how the BFX will hold up and handle like that.  All good ideas, thanks, ya all.

[GTodd]

On 12/6/2019 at 8:47 AM, F-150 said:

I'm going to fill up the diff with epoxy and be done with it.  Full, locked Diff without buying a hop-up part. I want to see how the BFX will hold up and handle like that.  All good ideas, thanks, ya all.

If you are going in a strait line or crawling, thats a good idea. Anything else I'd try a putty, it'll spin when it has too and be locked when it doesn't.