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CKU87

Super Astute

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Hi,

I build a Super Astute today and went all good so far. I bought the new High Cap Dampers which are sold for the Top Force.

The dampers in the back are fine but I think the front dampers are too long. The Car does not bottom out in the front and is a bit more lifted in the front. I have seen some pictures with the astute using similar dampers but I guess those ones are different?

Are there different High Cap Dampers?

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836047C5-7832-4E06-94B1-E7C080BF66D7.jpeg

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IMG_1636.thumb.JPG.849906e252b6e5f47ccca375d24b4f70.JPGI run the same setup as you do, but I replaced the front shock tower with one from a Dyna Storm which is taller

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Thanks Snappy!

Yes, you are right, front shock tower is too short for this setup unfortunately. Went back to the original Shocks, painted red, waiting for the Astute decals from MCI Racing :)

I will use the High Caps for another build...can anyone recommend yellow shocks for the Astute look? Preferably ones that fit without any modification?

Thanks 

Edit: Black Egress wheels are on the way as well :)

5D45EBCD-D049-4020-9DA9-4531D0AC63B2.jpeg

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You need mini cvas for the front and short cvas for the back I believe. Both can be found however the minis are not as common

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Why does shocks went from extra long Dyna Storm to mini CVA at the Astute? tracks become flat or what? can someone explain?

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Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers.

Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!

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8 hours ago, Collin said:

Why does shocks went from extra long Dyna Storm to mini CVA at the Astute? tracks become flat or what? can someone explain?

Sorry, I have never been into serious racing, maybe some of the experts knows why, but your assumptions sounds plausible to me :)

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9 hours ago, Collin said:

Why does shocks went from extra long Dyna Storm to mini CVA at the Astute? tracks become flat or what? can someone explain?

It was the other way around - the Dyna Storm came after the Super Astute so the shocks got longer. I suspect it was to fix the chassis not bottoming out before the shocks as that is a sure way to bend shock shafts but I don't know for sure. It was probably also following trends and evolving the design as tracks change. Look at modern buggies now, the Associated B6.1D is the dirt version but is for high grip tracks like they have in the US, the B6D is a far better car for low grip like we have over here.

The Top Force has long shocks all around but was apparently pretty bad on bumpy tracks but excellent on smooth tracks.

1 hour ago, CKU87 said:

Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers.

Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!

I think this will be a problem and would get the Dyna Storm towers now, especially since you have the High Caps already. You will probably bend shock shafts if you don't and jump a bit.

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15 hours ago, CKU87 said:

Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers.

Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!

You´re right, bottom out saves the towers. You just ordered the wrong Hicaps for the front. The Rere Hicaps come in 2 versions, as the originals. Mini and short. You would have needed the Mini set for the front of your SA, coming from the Avante 2011 Option parts front set. Then you have the correct Astute look with the Shorter tower, and you can bottom out without problems.  If you want to build the old CVA look, you can use Tamiya - 9225025 for the front, which are the same Shock bodies for the front axle as the Astute had. (in yellow). They are from the Fire Dragon rerelease.  Used them for my Vanquish rebuild 2 years ago.

 

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Tamiya - 0225035 should be the yellow Re-re´s for the rear. As you have the grey shock versions from the kit, you only need the plastic parts to get the Retro Astute look.;)

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Top force is 94mm rear, cva with long eyelet length. I guess it's same for hicaps - same shocks front and rear but front uses short eyelet, rear uses long eyelet.

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Yes, its the same aluminium housing for front and rear that was in the set (47358). However, the piston rod is 39mm in the front (9804650) and 49mm in the back (9804189).

Will post picutres of the process soon, but the car is on stock shocks now.

I wonder if I could just use the front housing of the Egress (9804649) and make my own mini high cap version for the front.

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Here we go!

It just looks amazing I think. I love this car! :)

So here are some details:

1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing :( I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction :ph34r:

2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts :wub:

3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method.

4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... :wacko: I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look.

Lets see, project continues.

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On 12/24/2019 at 9:22 PM, CKU87 said:

Hi,

I build a Super Astute today and went all good so far. I bought the new High Cap Dampers which are sold for the Top Force.

The dampers in the back are fine but I think the front dampers are too long. The Car does not bottom out in the front and is a bit more lifted in the front. I have seen some pictures with the astute using similar dampers but I guess those ones are different?

Are there different High Cap Dampers?

188ABF01-F9DE-4E70-A7FA-263F5AE94591.jpeg

D83B0839-0C89-41C1-B7F2-4AB3221773A7.jpeg

836047C5-7832-4E06-94B1-E7C080BF66D7.jpeg

The front shocks on the egress are the right size they are short hi-cap dampers unfortunately tamiya don't do them as a separate hop-up (yet) which is a bit strange because tamiya have released a few buggies that they would fit on over the past few years super astute being one of them!

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19 hours ago, CKU87 said:

1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing :( I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction :ph34r:

2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts :wub:

3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method.

4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... :wacko: I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look.

Lets see, project continues.

 

OK.... when I get a chance, I'll take a photo of my runner Astute for your reference.  Hopefully I can get this photo posted for you in the next couple of days because I think it's very close to what you want to achieve.  This is how:

1)  The same Star Dish wheels as yours only dyed black.  These wheels take black RIT dye very well and give you better tyre options.  You can still fit Hybrid Spikes on the rear if you want the original look too.

2)  Yep.... I've made the exact same mistake so you're not alone ! 

3)  If you put a 5 - 7mm cut in each side of the sticker (about half way up and a little higher at the rear) you can apply the sticker normally and then warm with a hair dryer.  The tiny overlap is hardly noticed. 

4)  I have the correct Hi-Cap mini's in the front and agree that these with the original front tower does help complete the overall look of the car.  The mini Hi-Cap damper is from the 2013 Egress front.  With Super Astute suspension arms, the shocks will bottom out first but I wouldn't be too concerned.  If something breaks or bends...... that's RC.  My Astute runner has Madcap suspension arms and with either these or original Astute arms, the car bottoms out before the suspension.  It's simply because of the SA having a more inboard lower damper position on the arm.

I'll link you to my post as soon as I get that photo..... I'm sure you'll be sold on the look with correct Hi-Caps and black Star Dish wheels ! 

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3 hours ago, kid168 said:

Which Tamiya Alum damper set will work better for the re release Super Astute

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53926-df03-alum-damper-p-19881.html

or

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54028-75mm92mmtrf-buggy-dampers-p-26110.html?cPath=389_390

Can anyone tell the difference between the 2 dampers?

 

The DF03 Damper will work better on the Super Astute using the stock front shock tower as recommended by Tamiya.  You pretty much need to retro fit a Dynastorm front shock tower for any TRF or Aeration Buggy dampers to work.

Here's some reading from Juls 1

 

 

 

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agree with comments that the Egress Hi-Caps fit perfectly Shorts on the rear, Mini's on the fronts. Occasionally you will find Egress sets being split on Ebay, so just keep looking.

If you want the proper length CVA's and can live with them not being yellow you can get the Super Astute ones quite easily now.

Warning - gratuitous Hi-Cap/Astute pic because there is nothing better on a Friday afternoon:

IMG_1249

 

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4 minutes ago, jonboy1 said:

agree with comments that the Egress Hi-Caps fit perfectly Shorts on the rear, Mini's on the fronts. Occasionally you will find Egress sets being split on Ebay, so just keep looking.

If you want the proper length CVA's and can live with them not being yellow you can get the Super Astute ones quite easily now.

 

Apologies - you've already got the SA CVA's on yours already! :rolleyes:

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It really is a FANTASTIC chassis!  I still have mine from when I was a kid, and just finished restoring it to runner condition this past year. Thank God for jazrider, they offer a complete front and rear hub assemblies as a set. Both of which are near impossible to find now. I upgraded the transmission to the Rere super Astute one as it's near impossible to find replacements for the original as well. 

The Rere body was paired with MCI decals. 

I used short size cva until the min parts arrived. Now all is right with the world! 

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