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junkmunki

Worst Tamiya TS spray paint

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Has anybody else noticed how thin and water like the Tamiya TS-26 pure white spray paint is?

I pride myself in being able to produce a fairly decent paint finish on the models i build and restore, but i cannot get a good finish straight off with the TS-26 pure white. Its like trying to paint with water, it doesn't matter how light i apply the coats, or what temperature the spray is when i apply it, it runs every time.

I always give the shells a light dusting of plastic primer to help the paint adhere, and every other colour is fine, but with the white, it makes no difference. I hang the item to be sprayed, give it a light misting, leave it to dry, and lo and behold when i go back, the paint has run...:angry:

Trouble is, i actually like the Tamiya spray paint range, and have had some fantastic results with them, and i like the fact that when they are polished, they give as good a shine as a lacquered finish.

Anybody got any other white spray sugestions that will give the same finish without the need for lacquer after painting?

J

 

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the last time i used tamiya ts paint it ruined my grand hauler shell and fenders as the paint cracked after a month or so  and i think if i remember right it was ts-89.

and as a result of that i wont use tamiya paint anymore

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Just now, Superluminal said:

You wait until you try the yellows.......

:unsure:

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I have to agree that the pure white is a difficult paint to use. A couple of caveats I’ve found

Make sure the paint can is warm and super well mixed.

Back off a bit more from the body when spraying. It will look orange peely but will smooth out over time.  This allows the paint to dry more before adhering to the body. 

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I had a JSI 1/18 F-14 Tomcat repainted with Tamiya TS medium gray. The entire paintscheme cracked within a month....Was not happy to put it mildly

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I agree, I stopped using Tamiya white years ago, i have wrecked so many bodies with it. Awful stuff. I use fasttrax white now days and not had an issue with it. Only other tamiya paint I have had issues with is the ps neon colours, they flaked when dry espesially the orange. 

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The last time I had to paint something white it was a 1/32 Colonial Viper, and I used a left over can of Toyota spray paint I'd bought to touch up some bodywork on the car. That came out mostly ok, but even that I had a small run in it.

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3 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Thats not your next colour is it?

No, fortunately the yellow i am using is the brushed paint.

J

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8 hours ago, junkmunki said:

Has anybody else noticed how thin and water like the Tamiya TS-26 pure white spray paint is?

...

Anybody got any other white spray sugestions that will give the same finish without the need for lacquer after painting?

 

TS26 has lousy opacity (doesn't cover up what's underneath, needs primer) and TS45 Pearl White is even worse.

I'm too meh to bother with the primer, usually painting on white ABS with only odd spots of filler to coverup. I'll just use original old TS7 white which does a much better cover job.

Go over that with Pure White or Pearl White subsequent coats. 

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This thread has me very nervous. Have they always been this bad? Is is changes for environmental or cost concerns? Are brands like Spaz Stix any better?

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Strange what I read here:
I've been using all kinds of Tamiya sprays for years and never had any problems with it.
And if there were problems, the mistake was always to be found with myself.
Actually, in my opinion there are just a few things to consider:

  • The paint / can must be warm. I always leave my spray cans in hot water ( from the tap, not boiling;-) for at least 5 minutes.
  • The room / environment must also be at least 20°, better even warmer. (All attempts to spray outside, especially in the colder season, are doomed to failure from the outset!
  • Shake the can well before use. When you think, you're done - shake it again for another minute:D

The only thing I can accuse Tamiya colors of is that the color of the lid often does not match the final result. There are partly considerable differences.
But otherwise Tamiya spray paints are still a reference for me, which no other manufacturer has reached so far.
Of course these are only my personal experiences...
 

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I thought it was just me. Glad to hear that I'm not the only one, or that I'm just a bad painter.

I have painted and repainted my Lancia 037 body at least 3 times because of pooling and running. I may just give up and go with the racing white which is an off white, but might look good. I could also do a red. 

Yesterday I painted my 1/24 Porsche 962c body and it was turrible. Worse than when I painted my Lancia because I skipped the primer. I'm going to prime over the 1st coat and try again with a different brand perhaps

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With ts-26 when I've done a few striker bodies over the years, in addition to what shodog and Scoobybooster has said, I'd always lightly and quickly put a hair dryer over the freshly sprayed paint, at a distance, to counter any possible runs and speed up the drying (a good 2ft away, then lessening to a 1ft, quickly).

Never had any issues

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I use TS paint often including the various whites with no issue.  As taffer noted, the trick is to apply very lightly and layer it.  It only takes a few min to dry between layers.   If one applies in thick coats for some reason it becomes counter productive in getting that nice solid finish... kind of opposite of enamel spray.

One can also base coat it with Tamiya's white lacquer primer before the application although with TS paint you shouldn't  need to unless trying to save the particular light colored paint one is applying.   I've come to like TS paints as it dries fast and hardens well.  

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Strange- never had any issues with Tamiya ts, ps or other paints for models. Had amazing results making me not run cars. As above key surface, and light coats.

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I haven’t really used Tamiya paints on much, but don’t usually see any issues with them, are the TS paints being sprayed on ABS, styrene, or lexan?  Usually you don’t want to use the TS on lexan since it’s more for the styrene and ABS type bodies and if you’re shooting over the above and it’s not already white, you will want to use a primer, especially a grey or white primer to get good coverage over the color the bodies are molded in.  If it’s yellow, red, or orange, you may even want to apply a product like Future/Pledge Floor Care or what ever it’s called now as a barrier to the pigments in those plastic colors.

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When you do light, fast coats - how do you deal with tape? People recommend removing tape as soon as possible to prevent damaging the paint if it is removed dry. Those two pieces of advice confuse me. I drove my original Thundershot unpainted back in the 80s, with no internet I wasn't sure what do do. Used Krylon paints for decent affect on my original monster beetle.

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Can’t recommend TS-101 highly enough - it’s a great base for TS-26 and often only requires a thin coat to ‘neutralise’ a darker colour already down.  It is really good and means that only a thin coat of TS-26 is required thus reducing the risk of any runs.

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Others have mentioned whether to use primer or not. I think primer is a must.
 

My plan of action is a complete scuff of the body with a very fine scotchbrite pad. Then a few light of coats of Tamiya fine line primer with wet sands in between. This gives the best surface for paint to adhere to. 

I’ve tried painting without a primer coat and the paint will pull away from door seams and other body details.  

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13 hours ago, isomer1 said:

When you do light, fast coats - how do you deal with tape? People recommend removing tape as soon as possible to prevent damaging the paint if it is removed dry. Those two pieces of advice confuse me. I drove my original Thundershot unpainted back in the 80s, with no internet I wasn't sure what do do. Used Krylon paints for decent affect on my original monster beetle.

I paint my Willy bodies using 2 TS colors (interior / exterior).  I paint the exterior, let dry 2 hours.   I then use Tamiya's masking tape for the actual parting line and standard 3M masking and painter's tape to cover the rest unless I use some random paper for covering large arrears.  I paint the interior a few coats as needed and let dry 7-8 min after the last coat and remove the mask.   I then let dry another 2 hours.  I don't get too OCD on the wait time as the paint is super forgiving.

I've never had paint peel or get damaged by masking tape with TS paint.   Now Tamiya's acrylic with airbrush is another story.. those paints are quite delicate and require more care and dry time depending on how thick one applies. 

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I must admit I've used tamiya TS and PS for years and only had brilliant results the only paint I've had issues with (and not really bad ones) is humbrol the last tamiya white I use was on my sand scorcher and it was good!

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