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FoxShot

My Bruiser Build

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So, Little update. Its finished :)

The black panel gap detailing works really well: Metallic blue looks awesome too.

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Really pops in the sunlight.

20200518_184841.thumb.jpg.a1d88d7a2952f43506628505528c8af0.jpg

Happy days !

20200601_170513.thumb.jpg.c91b7e6bd89ee1ea4e7d5aef43f3b8a4.jpg

Went for a drive up the top of the garden. Weeds and foliage look scale jungle.

20200601_170631.jpg.051171b0276ccb913f6b6a793e22af64.jpg

 

Then it rained....

 

@flamejob

 

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Got to use them, and get them dirrrrrty :)

It rolled at one point, and now has battle damage.

Need to lock the diff(s) too. Rear is a must. Thinking about the front too. What are peoples experience of diff locking? Also considering moving the steering servo forward with the mod. I have already raised the front gearbox mount about 5mm for more front axle travel. May make more mods on that too.

 

 

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5 hours ago, flamejob said:

I plan to run mine and get it dirty too!

I wish I had used proper car paint from a can on mine. It dries hard and can be polished etc. The Tamiya paint is SO soft :(

I am actually thinking of either getting another body & decal set, or stripping my current one.

 

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I'd recommend trying Tamiya 42247 TRF gear differential putty, select how stiff you want your diff then!

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7 hours ago, taffer said:

I'd recommend trying Tamiya 42247 TRF gear differential putty, select how stiff you want your diff then!

#Orders :)

 

 

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On 6/10/2020 at 2:37 AM, taffer said:

I'd recommend trying Tamiya 42247 TRF gear differential putty, select how stiff you want your diff then!

Sounds like putting silly putty in the diff!

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Update time.

 

First off, @taffer Thanks SO much for the Diff Putty recommendation. Wow, it climbs now. I have got it set to about 80% lock rear and 10-20% lock front.

I love this vehicle, and using it is such fun. However, i wasn't happy with the travel it had, and having seen several mods, decided to go for it.

I bought this set from Ebay as a start.

The front mount is very good, and allows straight forward fitment of longer shocks. If you retain the front steering linkage, you will need to flatten out the chassis mount as the new front shock tower/body mount uses those holes. No biggie.

The rear cantilever part needed jigging and adjustment to get it to fit. The body mount doesn't take into account the height difference between the cross member and the chassis rails. 

The canti link works well, but I used Schumacer balls, cups and threaded rod instead.

Shock wise, I wanted some bling Piggyback shocks, and posted a thread re those and queries. When they arrived, and I had built them, the hose wouldn't stay on. Design flaw in the hose flange nut. Modelsport were very good, and refunded me as soon as they touched down there. That left me wanting for more shocks. I started off building my unused standard Top Force CVA shocks. Actually pretty good as standard, you cant adjust them for different pistons though, unless you use some other pistons and rods. Looked stealthy in black too. However, i wanted bling, and they werent quite long enough. So....

I scavenged from the Foxhsot and tried the Schumacer CAT XLS rear shocks fitted to that. Bingo. The shocks are not in stock as complete items, so went on Ebay, and bought all the parts needed for two sets. Not actually that expensive IMO. And bling!!!

Just adding the shocks increased the travel, especially at the front. That meant the axle guard hit the gearbox (and eventually the front servo) so I trimmed that down, and added a profile for the gearbox.

The rear, however posed several problems 

As the shock bore was larger, it meant the tires rubbed the cantilever, and the action just wasn't what i wanted in increase so I made a new rear shock tower to match the height of the front and fit upright shocks. I did a comparison test between the two types, and vertical shocks gave 9mm more travel, and with a more linear action. 

With the increase in travel, the Anti Tramp bars hit the bottom of the forward spring hangers effectively halving the amount of travel. Solution, fit longer front bolts, and add a flange nut on to act as a spacer.

When the axle dropped down, the rear end of the anti Tramp bar hit the spring and axle shackle. Solution, saw and file back about 4mm allowing the axle to hang down more.

All leaves had the smallest spring removed too, softening up the suspension.

All this extra travel is awesome, but the front tyres were making significant contact with the corners of the arches. Solution, fit one of those pesky plastic bearings we all have between the R clip pin and the chassis. Instant body lift.

Another forumite, @RichieRich very kindly point me at These hub extenders from Shapeways. Excellent bit of kit, and make the front and rear track match perfectly. I also ordered a front servo mount from there. Again, excellent bit of kit.

However, fitting the front servo meant losing the rocker arm for the steering, and moving the actuator arm. That meant moving the shock lower mount to the back, giving the top a kinda cool forward rake. May well make the rears match for looks.

This also bent the small thin metal piece bolted onto the front hub when in use. Don't know if it was because I didn't have a servo saver, or the position changed. 

Head scratching (again) and with a protractor held in place, it would appear that the wheels turn a different no of degrees left or right. The same both sides. Damned Ackerman principle!!! Still working on a solution for that in my limited free time. the easiest answer would be a Transmitter which allows you to set travel limits. My Futaba 4YS doesn't do that... (HELP!!!!!)

ESC, i swapped out the very old Tamiya TEU-101 i robbed from the Foxshot and fitted a rather nice Hobbywing 1080 Crawler ESC.

Tyres, just ordered the Yokohama Geolander M/T S Compound from Modelsport. 

 

Love this kit SO much. Can't wait for proper mud, rain and even snow!

 

Have some Pix

 

 

Balanced.thumb.jpg.ec43bed6d92ece3cde15c5d702e44c6e.jpg

Balanced track

 

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Looking good

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Looking even better

 

 

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Full Extension

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Full Compression (At the time. Now it to the limit. Underguard Trimmed)

 

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Would have been SO bling 

 

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Nearly fully trimmed. I am pants at picture diaries!

 

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Front Servo Mount

 

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Showing off her swagger on her new ESC

 

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Home made shock towers. 

 

 

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Stock Vs Schumacer CAT XLS 

 

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Getting even more travel

 

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And more at the back

 

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Off to Play. 3 Buggies and a Bruiser. No untouched Shelf Queens here.

They look better on the shelf with dust and mud IMO

 

 

 

 

 

Would have Been Cool.jpg

Edited by FoxShot
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So, time for a little update:

 

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This is how I raised the front of the gearbox to allow extra travel. About 13.5mm raised!!

 

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I increased steering angle to give it a better turning circle. I achieved this by filing back the flats on the axle. i made sure that each side turned the same amount on each side.

Not quite finished here. I achieved a 42.5 degree angle on the outer side, higher inside.

 

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Rear suspension travel has increased to such an extent, i have had to modify the links. These are reinforced inside the groove with metal bar held in by epoxy (Araldite).

Again, both bars now match. I also placed a flange nut between the bar, and chassis rail with longer screws.

 

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The radio gear cover plate had to have the transmission tunnel modified to allow the increase in travel too. 

I cut a copper pipe in half, shaped to fit the increased tunnel, and again expoy'd it in. i kept it copper for effect.

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Some recent action Nekkidpix.20210817_131729.jpg.169e3253c7c25a7a59d7031c92daa3c2.jpg

20210817_133120.jpg.a287785d14ee2680a899bd6bee2cbc71.jpg

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I absolutely love running this. Especially now it now has decent working suspension, and shocks that work :)

 

 

20210827_131425.jpg

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On 6/7/2020 at 2:04 AM, FoxShot said:

So, Little update. Its finished :)

The black panel gap detailing works really well: Metallic blue looks awesome too.

20200517_222059.thumb.jpg.4d9b322b537831025ca8be488a88723d.jpg

 

20200517_222131.thumb.jpg.bffaea771bdbc3b469ba5cd8193b1b24.jpg

 

20200518_184647.thumb.jpg.de4c0104225da1ef4801ecd6895ae3a8.jpg

Really pops in the sunlight.

20200518_184841.thumb.jpg.a1d88d7a2952f43506628505528c8af0.jpg

Happy days !

20200601_170513.thumb.jpg.c91b7e6bd89ee1ea4e7d5aef43f3b8a4.jpg

Went for a drive up the top of the garden. Weeds and foliage look scale jungle.

20200601_170631.jpg.051171b0276ccb913f6b6a793e22af64.jpg

 

Then it rained....

 

@flamejob

 

20200606_202309.jpg.9acbf0d86174229c5f921c47cea69939.jpg

20200606_202440.jpg.cb1d912522b26b361a20df528d8ff3c3.jpg

20200606_203751.thumb.jpg.4775156800f7f1c58ac187013c76c2ec.jpg

 

Got to use them, and get them dirrrrrty :)

It rolled at one point, and now has battle damage.

Need to lock the diff(s) too. Rear is a must. Thinking about the front too. What are peoples experience of diff locking? Also considering moving the steering servo forward with the mod. I have already raised the front gearbox mount about 5mm for more front axle travel. May make more mods on that too.

 

 

If you plan on doing plenty of offroadin then yes a Locked set of diffs is a huge improvement almost all of my offroad RC's have locked diffs in them

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