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pourMoneyIntoSea

mountain rider

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- not yet finished;

- this truck is not intended to run, just for display;

- the tamiya 3ch transmitter doesn't suit well because the 3rd channel travels too much;

- the planetary gear thing is very difficult to install. the screws are small. the holes are tight.

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Really looking forward to the mechanical part of my Bruiser build. I'm doin ghte bodywork first. Mine will be used. My mate has the MountainRider, and we are building a buggy track and a 4wd truck track in his garden.

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24 minutes ago, FoxShot said:

Really looking forward to the mechanical part of my Bruiser build. I'm doin ghte bodywork first. Mine will be used. My mate has the MountainRider, and we are building a buggy track and a 4wd truck track in his garden.

i had another mountain rider and it had been used. it was equipped with traxxas electronics.

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8 hours ago, pourMoneyIntoSea said:

i had another mountain rider and it had been used. it was equipped with traxxas electronics.

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What a gorgeous place. Where are you located?

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It's nice to see chassis in all its glory to appreciate whats in one of these kits. Thanks for posting.

Brilliant nick name too by the way, pourMoneyIntoTheSea  :lol:

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On 1/11/2020 at 2:06 PM, Re-Bugged said:

It's nice to see chassis in all its glory to appreciate whats in one of these kits. Thanks for posting.

Brilliant nick name too by the way, pourMoneyIntoTheSea  :lol:

yea i think the most fascinating parts of bruiser / mountain rider are those metal parts. they form a beautiful metallic structure. 

just finished the body. not so good at this.

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during the whole building process, i think the most difficult part is to align the axles onto the leaf springs. not only the positions but also the angles are concerned. 

after all, the building process is pleasant and challenging.

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Really nicely composed build photos & I love the ‘natural’ look, refreshing change to box art.

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some afterthoughts / build tips

- I used “counting method” in step 10 (mounting the axles onto the leafs). you need to tighten the nuts equally. firstly I put the nuts onto the u-bolts such that they barely engaged into the screws. secondly I tightened all nuts with same number of turns

- the manual suggests you align the front axle with 5 degree inclination but I ignored this. I mounted it horizontally instead. it has 2 benefits in doing so. 1, you would have 5 degree caster; 2, the front universal joints are in phase

- this truck is designed with certain extent of flexibility in the chassis. after complete build you can still twist the whole thing to several degrees. the gearbox and the electronic box are attached to the main frame with some damper bushings / o-rings

- as a display item, this truck is not intended to use. the body shell doesn’t need to remove frequently. I inserted an o-ring underneath each body clip. this makes the body attaching to the chassis tightly. 

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On 1/28/2020 at 8:25 AM, pourMoneyIntoSea said:

some afterthoughts / build tips

- I used “counting method” in step 10 (mounting the axles onto the leafs). you need to tighten the nuts equally. firstly I put the nuts onto the u-bolts such that they barely engaged into the screws. secondly I tightened all nuts with same number of turns

- the manual suggests you align the front axle with 5 degree inclination but I ignored this. I mounted it horizontally instead. it has 2 benefits in doing so. 1, you would have 5 degree caster; 2, the front universal joints are in phase

- this truck is designed with certain extent of flexibility in the chassis. after complete build you can still twist the whole thing to several degrees. the gearbox and the electronic box are attached to the main frame with some damper bushings / o-rings

- as a display item, this truck is not intended to use. the body shell doesn’t need to remove frequently. I inserted an o-ring underneath each body clip. this makes the body attaching to the chassis tightly. 

I am about to start on the axle build on mine. Got as far as the leaf sprinh hangers. Body is painted, hardening before the clear coat goes on.

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40 minutes ago, FoxShot said:

I am about to start on the axle build on mine. Got as far as the leaf sprinh hangers. Body is painted, hardening before the clear coat goes on.

the building process is delightful. update your progress..^^

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4 hours ago, pourMoneyIntoSea said:

the building process is delightful. update your progress..^^

i will. There was a post in a thread on here about the axle build, and the bits that go into it. Explained about the little black bits (I Think) that go in the hubs, and how to fit them properly. Cant find it. Do you, or anyone know the post/thread I mean???

 

 

[Edit]Found it:

[/Edit]

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1 hour ago, FoxShot said:

i will. There was a post in a thread on here about the axle build, and the bits that go into it. Explained about the little black bits (I Think) that go in the hubs, and how to fit them properly. Cant find it. Do you, or anyone know the post/thread I mean???

 

 

[Edit]Found it:

[/Edit]

do you mean the play/slop of the front wheel hubs?

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yeah. Found a couple of threads using my work browser history. Exactly the thread I was after. Cant wait to show my build/painting off.

 

It wont take 2-3 years like a coule of people to finish!!! ;)

 

 

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19 hours ago, FoxShot said:

yeah. Found a couple of threads using my work browser history. Exactly the thread I was after. Cant wait to show my build/painting off.

 

It wont take 2-3 years like a coule of people to finish!!! ;)

 

 

the plays in front wheel hubs can be elimated by “time”. 

i had a bruiser before. i used it. its front hubs had play at first. i ignored it. after several km’s runtime, i took the front wheels off and retighten the front wheel hubs. the lock nuts could get in more than at first. the problem solved thereafter. 

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