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Busdriver

And this is My TT02-S build

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Have been watching the TT02 builds recently whilst accumulating bits. Enough has now arrived to start

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So far I have tt02-s chassis kit,

YR Aluminium steering,

YR Aluminium drive shaft and joints,

YR Aluminium motor mount,

YR Diff locker

Sanwa Reciever,

Futuba servo,

Blue High efficiency 13.5T sensored motor

Nascar style truck body,

Camaro 69 body,

So far so good. Still need steel pinion and paint.

Questions: I have also ordered a 10.5T motor  of same type. Question is can I run that with TBLE 02. Would I need to fit a fan to the ESC if so what type and how is it powered? Would I be better with a different pinion using either of these two motors. Initially running NimH batteries but may turn to the darkside and get a lipo:ph34r: Not going to race it just for blasting round tennis courts etc. No ordereing any wheels and tyres at the moment as I want to see if I need any different offsets to work with the bodies. I am hoping to get both bodies to work with the same set of mounts:unsure:

Anything else I sould be thinking about?

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Also need a set of stickers for the Truck. Theres a BUD nascar truck so the MCI BUD stickers should work. Nice simple paint job as well, either all red or red and white. Camaro comes with either the stickers to do the blue one pictured or as a road going one. Think I'm going to do blue. Have found some yellow  wheels just need to know offsets

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Nice to see another person with a TT-02 Type S build on the go.

With the low stock gearing you might be able to get away without a cooling fan for your ESC, but if you need one, the TFU-01 is the official part, expensive but effective, powered via a spare receiver slot. However pretty much any aftermarket fan could be made to fit with a bit of ingenuity. It depends on how good you want it to look, and how good you are at fabricating mounts.

As for other things to look for, you might want to consider the alloy spur adaptor which allows you to run a variety of spur gears to give you a taller ratio better suited to your motors, as the stock ratio is very low. There is a gearing chart in the back of the manual IIRC.

Looking forward to watching your build progress!

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Nice! Love the idea of the truck body. I ran a 10.5 on a TBLE02S in my thunder dragon for a while, even using 8.4v nimh at one point. It would thermal after a few minutes, but this is likely to put less load on the esc than a vintage 4wd buggy. Especially as you will be using 7.2v batteries. However, the tamiya fan kit is halfway to a hobbywing 10BL60 ESC cost wise and not much more to the 10BL120 120amp version. These will both easily cope with the motors and will run lipo. Lipo will fry your tamiya esc with a 10.5t motor. However your tamiya esc will have no trouble at with lipo and your 13.5 motor. 

Gearing - wise, i have 13.5 (with tamiya esc) in my road/rally car on 5.5FDR which feels plenty fast enough for bashing. For 10.5 you probably want something around 6.5.

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Which spur/pinion combination would i need to acheive either of these. The lowest ratio with  25T pinion and 70T spur is 7.28:1 If i get the speed gear set that drops the spur to 68T how do I work out the best pinion. Are there other lower toothed spurs I could use with stock pinion. Sorry if this is a bit basic but never very good with gear ratios:blink:

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I use a 64T TB-03 spur with mine which allows sub-6 FDRs. The Tamiya alloy spur adapter comes with a gearing chart showing what pinions give what ratios when used with it. I can check mine later when I get home if you like. 

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Internal ratio is 2.6 so 5.5 FDR would need 70 (spur) / (5.5 / 2.6) = 33t pinion. You can get those in 0.6 module from Spire Distribution in the uk. 

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That would work, or you could use a 64t spur and 30t pinion to achieve similar results with less rotating mass. 

It also depends on the track or space you have available. For example the Broxtowe club races in a huge sports hall and usually has a long main straight, so a 5.5 FDR on 13.5t is good. However on the compact and twisty Peterborough club track set up in a smaller school hall, you'd be better off closer to 6.

With this in mind, I have set my TT-02 Type S up with a 64t spur and 27t pinion for a FDR of 6.16. You may want to aim for something similar, as the Peterborough hall is similar in size to a tennis court, which you mentioned as your intended driving area. 

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Just to throw another option into the mix, if you do get the spur gear mount for smaller spur gears, don't bother with tamiya gears at all and buy 48dp or 64dp spurs and pinions. They are plentiful and available in loads of sizes, plus pinions are way cheaper than tamiya 0 6mod. I run 48dp rw racing spur gears in my TA06 with core rc hardened aluminium pinions. 

You calculate gearing as follows:

(Spur teeth / pinion teeth) x 2.6 = FDR

 

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On 1/16/2020 at 11:45 AM, ThunderDragonCy said:

96t spur and 45t pinion will give you 5.5 FDR. You need the hop up spur gear mount as well, don't forget.

Hey Presto

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Also ordered Hobbywing 10BL120 120amp version  ready for for the 10.5T motor

On 1/16/2020 at 7:27 AM, ThunderDragonCy said:

(Spur teeth / pinion teeth) x 2.6 = FDR

I get spur/teeth etc but where does 2.6 come from. Also does wheel diameter play any part?

 

On 1/15/2020 at 10:51 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

You can get those in 0.6 module

What is the difference between 64 dpd/48 dpd and 0.6 module. I am totally confused:blink:

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44 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Hey Presto

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Also ordered Hobbywing 10BL120 120amp version  ready for for the 10.5T motor

I get spur/teeth etc but where does 2.6 come from. Also does wheel diameter play any part?

 

What is the difference between 64 dpd/48 dpd and 0.6 module. I am totally confused:blink:

Fast work! 2.6 is the internal gear ratio of the chassis. In the case of the TT02 it is the number of teeth on the outer diff gear divided by the number of teeth on the drive gear on the end of the prop shaft. It varies from car to car, although a lot of tamiyas are 2.6.

Wheel size definitely plays a part, but not in that gearing calculation itself. What i do is measure the two wheels i want to compare. For example, on DT03 the buggy wheels are about 88mm diameter, and the truck wheels are about 105mm. 105/88 = 1.19. So to keep the same effective gear where wheel meets ground, i probably want to increase my FDR by 1.19 or a bit more. Roughly. 

dp gears are imperial measurement. I know 64dp is finer than 48dp, but not much more. Knowing imperial the definition probably involves camels per dead frog or something equally obscure. 0.6 module gearing is metric, so the average diameter of the gear is number of teethx0.6. So, 0.4 module is finer than 0.8 module. Tamiya quite sensibly likes metric, but our American cousins have so much influence on the market that most aftermarket and racing applications use imperial because there is more of it about. 

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27 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

camels per dead frog or something equally obscure

:lol::lol::lol:

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On 1/18/2020 at 5:47 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

so the average diameter of the gear is number of teethx0.6

More precisely, it's (N+2)*m = D, where N is number of teeth, m is module, D is diameter. 

64p roughly equals to 0.4 metric, 48p to 0.53 (so 48p is not compatible with 0.5, although it's close), 0.6 gears can be sometimes found listed as 42p (traxxas, for example)

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Here we go! Cut  out the truck body, real difference between a £15 Ebay body and Tamiya body. Got there in the end though its quite flimsy

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These are all the bits and pieces!!

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Page 1: Tamiya speed gear set (not spur) YR cups and propshaft

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Page 2: Front diff with putty, quite tight. Rear diff AW grease

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Page 4 : 10.5T Blue sensored brushless, 96t spur and 45t pinion, YR adjustable mount.

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Think thats enough for day one.:D

 

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Did a bit more. Lower suspension arms, front knuckles and upper arms

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Happy days and my Amarok arrived:D

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Looks good 

I love the quick run motors and ESC but so expensive 

I keep using the goolRC ones and haven’t been disappointed yet 

can’t wait to see the body go on

JJ

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Its not a quickrun motor, its a £20 Ebay" bluebottle". If its as good as the 13.5T in my Asterion I'll be happy.

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Those bluebottle motors are surprisingly good for the money, not top-of-the-line, but every bit as good as the older generation of Speed Passion or Trackstar motors, while costing a fair bit less. Timing isn't mechanically adjustable, but when paired with an ESC such as the 10BL60 or 10BL120, you can crank up the timing electronically and then they really fly. I run them in a few of my cars now, and will probably buy more of them.

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How do you” crank up the timing electronically “ with a 10bl120?

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On 1/30/2020 at 11:13 AM, Busdriver said:

How do you” crank up the timing electronically “ with a 10bl120?

With the programming card/box you select item 9, then pick a setting from option 1 (0 degrees) to option 8 (26.25 degrees).

It is a bit trickier with the button on the switch module, but the manual explains it. It is a matter of pressing and releasing the button and watching the lights, counting the flashes, etc. You can access the same adjustments as with the programming card/box, it just takes more hassle.

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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

With the programming card/box you select item 9, then pick a setting from option 1 (0 degrees) to option 8 (26.25 degrees).

I have a programe card so Ill have a look

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Following on from my post regarding toe in I produced a styrene prototype. I would prefer a proper one but whwreas you can buy a rear one on its own you have to buy a full set to get the front one with 0 toe. Anyhow  it works. Just need to adapt the flange spacer and add some spacers on the other side to correct the wheelbase if necessary. Doesnt look that far out with the truck body but may be different with the Camaro and the wider wheels at the rear?

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An interesting mod, and I can fully understand your motivation for doing it from an aesthetic perspective, but after adding so many nice hop-ups that improve performance and/or reliability, it seems a pity to have one that sacrifices both to achieve the right "look".

I wonder if there isn't a spacer-based solution that preserves the toe angle for handling and metal hardware for reliability, but moves the whole arrangement backwards so that the big-offset wheels still align with the arches?

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