Jump to content
Nicadraus

LRP S10 Blast - The underrated kit

Recommended Posts

So I got this kit last November and decided to convert it into a proper 4WD rally car since I already have an FF rally car.

Here is the stock car when it arrived.

Box stock have these:
-carbon reinforced main tub chassis
-all metal gears including differential planetary
-full ball bearing except for steering. All bearing are same size of Tamiya
-aluminum adjustable motor mount
-Aluminum center shaft
-aluminum chassis posts
-aluminum suspension blocks
-universal front shafts
-steel rear dog bone shaft
-steel outdrive cups (front and rear)
-60mm big bore aluminum dampers (hard springs)
-mounted tires on wheels
-urethane bumper
-waterproof casing for electronics

gOT7FAdh.jpg


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As the title says "underrated", I decided to give this kit some improvements.

Here are the modification and changes:

-replaced stock bushing of steering to 850 size bearings 
-changed the ball studs and ball cap ends to Tamiya
-all aluminum (blue) turnbuckles (upper suspension and steering)
-fabricated top deck from 3mm carbon fiber board (DIY cutting and drilling using Dremel)
-fabricated battery holder from 3mm carbon fiber board (DIY cutting and drilling using Dremel)
-rebuild both diffs as they have binding and replaced lubrication with 200k oil front, and 20k oil rear.
-replaced stock 60mm shock with YR 60mm Shock Gear and replaced shaft end to extend another 5mm
-aluminum front knuckles and C-Hubs (both ZD Racing). No more lose play.
-replaced rear body post to Tamiya (extra frm my FF) to accommodate hatch bodies)
-Replaced plastic hex hubs to aluminum (ZD Racing)
-replaced stock servo mount to aluminum (ZD Racing)

Here it is now.

xjDQTdbh.jpg

bRcqCMkh.jpg

cSejsp3h.jpg

with my friend's stock S10
nZVdAeyh.jpg

The Tamiya ball studs and ball caps have made such big improvements from the stock ones. Steering bearings also made it better. The cf top deck reduced chassis flexing by 80-85% because the stock plastic top deck was too flexible. The dampers have also played a big part in rallying set up.

I have built two Tamiya TT-02 kits for my cousins, one for on-road and another one converted to rally, Both have slightly been upgraded. In my opinion and observation, I should say that the S10 is so much better than the TT-02 kits  in terms of sturdiness and build. Performance wise, it's stable and very responsive after the modifications*.. A lot cheaper too.

My modified S10 only costs total of $130 (excluding electronics).

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the S10 have the ability to have front body mounts “above the shock tower” like is standard on TT and TL chassis? I need a chassis for an already drilled Tamiya body

**Edit - and where are they available?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

Does the S10 have the ability to have front body mounts “above the shock tower” like is standard on TT and TL chassis? I need a chassis for an already drilled Tamiya body

**Edit - and where are they available?

Body mounts on the shock tower can be customized using Tamiya body posts. Check the LRP site here:

https://www.lrp.cc/en/product/s10-blast-tc-2-clubracer-non-rtr-no-wheels-and-body-110-4wd-electric-touring-car/ 

But I got mine from an Asian version of "Amazon" called Lazada.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some updates.

The S10 comes with 2 planetary gears for the diff instead of 3 or 4. I have tried using 30k diff oil but it just doesn't work for the front. So instead, while waiting for the lockdown to end, I thought of locking the diff with a sticky tack and it worked.

PFmiKssh.jpg

45MwWFLh.jpg

v1RZg0Kh.jpg

JunEohFh.jpg

Installed the Rocket fan. This is probably the strongest motor/ESC fan and it only cost $10. Rated at 28000rpm and has aluminum casing too. Shortened the ESC-to-motor wires and installed bullet connectors. 

WE6TZsuh.jpg

X0iVYy3h.jpg

With the right set up, this car is truly amazing and can perform well. 

0cPfGX6h.jpg

qC7TcD9h.jpg

pejFbz2h.jpg

2Km9RSXh.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wich diff did you locked? 

i just got a second hand blast tc and only the rear diff is locked and i dont know why

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/16/2021 at 1:00 AM, maryn said:

wich diff did you locked? 

i just got a second hand blast tc and only the rear diff is locked and i dont know why

The front diff. Front and rear diff are the same. You can move the rear to the front. Try to open up the diff and see what the previous owner used for locking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, maryn said:

hot glue! but why only the rear? for drifting?

Most likely. Lock the front and put 30k oil in the rear. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...