GeoJohnF 14 Posted July 24, 2020 Waiting for my Xtra Speed A5 part then I can start my build. Wahh-hooo! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 25, 2020 Just started my build and I have two questions. Step A4 on page 5 shows the two screws as BA1. The screw attaching to nut BA9 is too short so for now I used a BB2. The BA1 is 20mm whereas the BB2 is 27 mm. Anyone building this have a similar experience. Second, A6 page5 using E1 bushing in the housing and I wondered why they did not use a BA11 bearing there. Any thoughts are appreciated. This is my first new build in awhile. I built the Manta Ray in 1991 when my boys were younger and now I am doing this to build with the grandchildren. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted July 25, 2020 2 hours ago, MrBlz said: Just started my build and I have two questions. Step A4 on page 5 shows the two screws as BA1. The screw attaching to nut BA9 is too short so for now I used a BB2. The BA1 is 20mm whereas the BB2 is 27 mm. Anyone building this have a similar experience. Second, A6 page5 using E1 bushing in the housing and I wondered why they did not use a BA11 bearing there. Any thoughts are appreciated. This is my first new build in awhile. I built the Manta Ray in 1991 when my boys were younger and now I am doing this to build with the grandchildren. I have not started my build but I know that theres 3 areas/parts that could have used a thrust bearing but tamiya did not supply it with the kit..m rather, they opted for the bushing.. I think a 5x11 bearing can be used if you have extra. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 946 Posted July 25, 2020 4 hours ago, MrBlz said: Just started my build and I have two questions. Step A4 on page 5 shows the two screws as BA1. The screw attaching to nut BA9 is too short so for now I used a BB2. The BA1 is 20mm whereas the BB2 is 27 mm. Anyone building this have a similar experience. Second, A6 page5 using E1 bushing in the housing and I wondered why they did not use a BA11 bearing there. Any thoughts are appreciated. This is my first new build in awhile. I built the Manta Ray in 1991 when my boys were younger and now I am doing this to build with the grandchildren. 20mm screw is correct, I have just rebuilt a tshot gearbox this evening Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 25, 2020 Thanks. To be clear, Terra Scorcher 2020, page 5, step A4 the screw with the BA9 nut. Not sure what I am missing but I attached a picture and appreciate any thoughts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MICHAELs TopForce17 583 Posted July 25, 2020 1 hour ago, MrBlz said: Thanks. To be clear, Terra Scorcher 2020, page 5, step A4 the screw with the BA9 nut. Not sure what I am missing but I attached a picture and appreciate any thoughts. The 27mm screw you have pictured goes into step 19 for the rear guard. Started mine today had to look online a few times but here is correct location ba9 in step 4. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 25, 2020 Many thanks. I so appreciate this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich T UK 9 Posted July 26, 2020 Can I ask a favour? What’s the Upper and lower hole spacing on the rear wing mount (G3)? my sister has a TS and wants a modified mount but doesn’t have something to measure the part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) On 7/25/2020 at 6:43 PM, MrBlz said: Many thanks. I so appreciate this. I wonder if you can assist with this question. In trying to get the upper arms assembled, one end of the BB11 screw goes into the BB31 with minimum effort while the other end of the screw requires considerable effort and I am having little success. This is consistent with all four of the assemblies. Is there a tool, trick or shortcut to get it started? I tried removing the easier BB31 thinking that it now had some threads and move it to the other end but that did not help. Thanks for any thoughts. Edit - In looking at the picture now I see that it is a reverse thread. I need new glasses. Edited July 28, 2020 by MrBlz I looked at my picture and answered my own question. It's a reverse thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 28, 2020 On 7/26/2020 at 8:01 AM, Rich T UK said: Can I ask a favour? What’s the Upper and lower hole spacing on the rear wing mount (G3)? my sister has a TS and wants a modified mount but doesn’t have something to measure the part. Does photo help? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich T UK 9 Posted July 28, 2020 15 minutes ago, MrBlz said: Does photo help? That’s fantastic, thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted July 28, 2020 2 hours ago, MrBlz said: I wonder if you can assist with this question. In trying to get the upper arms assembled, one end of the BB11 screw goes into the BB31 with minimum effort while the other end of the screw requires considerable effort and I am having little success. This is consistent with all four of the assemblies. Is there a tool, trick or shortcut to get it started? I tried removing the easier BB31 thinking that it now had some threads and move it to the other end but that did not help. Thanks for any thoughts. Edit - In looking at the picture now I see that it is a reverse thread. I need new glasses. I suspect you're struggling as one end has a left hand thread, and one end has a right hand thread. Try 'unscrewing' it on. Edit: Missed your edit, sorry. Too late for me to be trying to use brain at this hour... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nova1 16 Posted July 30, 2020 Midway through the build of the Terra Scorcher. I have noticed in my kit that the W suspension parts (front dampers) are a different shade of yellow to the rear - they have a slight orange tinge. Has anyone else experienced this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 30, 2020 10 hours ago, Nova1 said: Midway through the build of the Terra Scorcher. I have noticed in my kit that the W suspension parts (front dampers) are a different shade of yellow to the rear - they have a slight orange tinge. Has anyone else experienced this? I checked and my V, W, and Y are all the exact shade of yellow. I just purchased mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nova1 16 Posted July 30, 2020 Thanks for reply I must be unlucky with this one - it is my second Terra Scorcher re re - the other kit I built didn’t have this problem either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted July 31, 2020 On 4/21/2020 at 1:15 AM, taffer said: You still need 3 extra ball bearings (1150) to replace the e1+thrust washer parts, ideally proper ball raced thrust bearings but I have been using normal ball bearings for years. Steel pinion and steel a5 support Replacing the screw pins with shafts and clips will make it last even longer (Parts numbers in my showroom tshot new build) I am still in the process of my build and I wondered why they would not use bearings rather than the E1 parts. Not sure how to find you showroom for the part numbers. As an aside, this is my first build since my Manta Ray in 1991 and I also purchased a Bigwig. My old Futaba 2PB still works borrowed from my son's Nissan King Cab and my other son's Grasshopper. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 946 Posted July 31, 2020 @MrBlz https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133367&id=2692 It's also a mystery why bearing kits never include the extra either! To be fair the E1 plastic parts and washer don't wear quick so not essential that they are changed but it's a low cost upgrade so why not!? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) On 7/30/2020 at 4:03 PM, MrBlz said: I checked and my V, W, and Y are all the exact shade of yellow. I just purchased mine. Have you set up the TBLE-02S yet. I posted this on general. Purchased the Spektrum STX3 to use with my Terra Scorcher which comes with the TBLE-02S ESC The TBLE-02S procedure states to set the throttle reverse switch to the reverse position which already I find confusing. However, I did that and then went through the steps and they work as described. The odd part is as follows. Regardless of the position of the throttle switch, normal or reverse, the motor runs opposite of your throttle position. i.e. pull back goes backwards, push forward applies brake and then goes forward. I checked with the meter and the blue is always negative. My present solution is just to reverse the wires from the motor to the esc. Again, if I try the high point set up procedures with the throttle reverse switch in the normal mode the step to apply full brake and depress the set button does not complete the process. i.e. the red light continues to double flash. Double checked my steps, put on new glasses and it all works exactly as it should. Apologies to all. Edited August 9, 2020 by MrBlz I have resolved my issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted August 9, 2020 Also, on another subject, not sure that I like the way BB30 fits in the front stabilizer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 946 Posted August 9, 2020 Looks like you haven't popped it onto the ball? Needs a firm push! It's rubber tubing brass ball plastic part then rubber tubing to finish Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlz 21 Posted August 10, 2020 Thank you taffer. Not sure why I did not realize that myself. New glasses and old wine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saito2 6573 Posted August 15, 2020 Do you think we'll ever seem ore widespread spare parts for this in the future? I'm mulling over getting one to run but usually like to pick up things like gear cases and knuckles/hubs that get broken in crashes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5707 Posted August 15, 2020 I've not ran my terra scorcher yet because of the lack of parts and I've had it since its release! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 946 Posted August 16, 2020 Only ever broken 2 X left sides knuckles in over 10 years, always been available but a couple of pairs of f trees should see you through! White wheels will be an issue in the future but black wheels have always been around...... Gearboxes, if you install shafts instead of screw pins (upper arms), gearbox should also last longer.....although saying that my current runner has split gearboxes with screw pins and it runs fine, hasn't got worse in years.... Tyres availability comes and goes, just buy a couple of sets when you see them cheapish!? Approx reasonable prices to look for... Chassis £15 A tree £15 F tree £8 Wheels £10-£20 for four Tyres £20-£30 for four Apart from tyres and gearboxes, a lot of parts are available 3d print wise as well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites