matisse 1576 Posted February 10, 2020 Srsly, what is up with the image upload thing, they always face the wrong way!!! anyway, at that time when prep can begin in earnest, picking up a tap set tomorrow and some wet and dry paper. First stages will be to tap the holes to take m3 hex screws, then sand the FRP edges and the diff rings. Then I can start building. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 11, 2020 So it begins, and as with many things it begins with tedious prep work. Such glamour. as I’m sure we’re all aware by now, the frp parts seem to be pressed out rather than milled so they have the snap line. I know it’s not important but it also kinda is, the snap line is fugly and has to go, so out come the tiny files. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 11, 2020 And after filing, much better!! (alright it’s a tiny difference but it matters to me.) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 11, 2020 Next up, finishing the edges. ill either wax or use superglue, but I’ve also sharpied a section to see how it looks. Gonna think on it. Ive also started thinking about a paint job, I kinda want to keep it metallic but change the colour, thinking a deep red/maroon. A bit of research threw up PS 89919, Metallic Wine Red. This is of course no longer available... sigh....unless...it’s actually available as PS Evolution Red from a random eBay site in Italy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3730 Posted February 11, 2020 You could try the PS clear red followed by a backing of PS gun metal. Looks stunning. Scroll down on the first page.... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 11, 2020 2 minutes ago, Superluminal said: You could try the PS clear red followed by a backing of PS gun metal. Looks stunning. Scroll down on the first page.... Wow... that is delightful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3730 Posted February 11, 2020 Looks good doesnt it. The only issue would be the colours of the top force decals might clash a bit. But as that colour looks so nice it would be a shame to cover over it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 11, 2020 18 minutes ago, Superluminal said: Looks good doesnt it. The only issue would be the colours of the top force decals might clash a bit. But as that colour looks so nice it would be a shame to cover over it. Yeah, this has crossed my mind. this is the Evo Red, on an actual evo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jontea 334 Posted February 11, 2020 I kinda enjoy the little prep jobs, they give a satisfying look to every part of the finished article. I say Sharpie the edges, but that's just my OCD kicking in! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 13, 2020 Fun night with the sharpie, a little light headed at the end but happy with the result. Tried a little bit of superglue on the edges in an unobtrusive place, not feeling it, think i’ll stick to the sharpied edges 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 13, 2020 Diff prep tonight. Little work with the wet and dry to level our the thrust plates and add a little texture for the balls to grip. hopefully result in more effcient and longer lasting diffs. Starts off unsanded and shiney: Use a magnet or your fingers and rub in a circular motion on wet and dry paper, I used 600 grade. the high spots get sanded, the low spots stay shiney. When it's all sanded, you're done! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 14, 2020 Guess who forgot to order enough turnbuckles.... this guy! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathon Gillham 4595 Posted February 15, 2020 12 hours ago, matisse said: Guess who forgot to order enough turnbuckles.... this guy! Hate it when that happens. For me that would mean a 2 week wait for them too. Which ones did you forget? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 15, 2020 2 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said: 6 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said: Hate it when that happens. For me that would mean a 2 week wait for them too. Which ones did you forget? Just the one a for the steering link and servo, so not vital, but it’ll complete the look. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 15, 2020 The rear shock tower mounting wqs bothering me, and I'd seen a few braces fashioned after @kontemax on builds in the showroom. Whilst i dont want to go that far yet, i did hunt for some countersunk washers and screws to spread the load out a little more. They turned up today as well as some bolts to clamp down the gear box tops. if they work im gonna have a few sets spare.... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 15, 2020 TA03 ball diffs built, not built a diff in 8/9 years but its like riding a bike, you never forget it seems. Documented the process but finished they look pretty good tbh. I'd upload a photo but for the life of me I can't figure this out, they always, always display 90deg rotated, Whats that all about then? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3730 Posted February 15, 2020 Whats the difference between the ta03 and the kit ball diffs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GTodd 1306 Posted February 15, 2020 26 minutes ago, Superluminal said: Whats the difference between the ta03 and the kit ball diffs? Aluminum differential halves, mimic what the EVO had. The TA03 diffs are slightly narrower but its reported from others here that it doesnt effect functionality. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3730 Posted February 15, 2020 I thought the kit standard ones were aluminium too - they are castings of some sort. Is there a performance difference that makes them worth upgrading to or is it more in recreating the evo spec? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GTodd 1306 Posted February 16, 2020 4 hours ago, Superluminal said: I thought the kit standard ones were aluminium too - they are castings of some sort. Is there a performance difference that makes them worth upgrading to or is it more in recreating the evo spec? Rotational mass is reduced. If you are going after that last 100th of a second it'll count. But you should have all the other evo stuff then too: Graphite chassis, titanium screw, lightly weight kingpins etc. The TF can still give modern machinery a hard time at the local level, especially here in the states on clay indoor tracks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 16, 2020 On 2/16/2020 at 3:49 AM, GTodd said: Rotational mass is reduced. If you are going after that last 100th of a second it'll count. But you should have all the other evo stuff then too: Graphite chassis, titanium screw, lightly weight kingpins etc. The TF can still give modern machinery a hard time at the local level, especially here in the states on clay indoor tracks. They also came as standard with the thrust ball races , which i was going to buy anyway. This way i get the races ans have two spare ball diffs. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 28, 2020 Finally got a photo hosting site, (thanks @netsmithUK for TcPhotos.net!) so a barrage or posts are on the way. Yes, i documented everything you lucky things you....... Lets go back to the ball diffs: having sanded the plates it was time to build. I always used two different greases back in the day, Tamiya Ball Dif grease on the plates/balls and AE black greae for the thrust bearings. It never hurts to use the right grease for the job and these two applications do need different types of grease, should make them last longer as well. Ready: BDiff grease to hold the balls in, i';m quite liberal with it. Bit of BDiff grease to hold the plates on during the build: Another liberal coat of BDiff grease to the plates surfaces where they will contact the balls: put them together and et voila: MMMM, greasy, and yet not so slick that the balls cant grip the plates, silicone grease is amazing. After a few tries i found it easier to complete both sides of the plate assembly and then work on the Thurst bearing. Much AE Black Grease. AFAIk its a high pressure grease with some lubricating inclusions designed for thrust bearings. either way, it's always worked well, so again a liberal coating. I've built this on the diff screw as I found it easier. add the springs and in it goes! I tightened fully, then backed off an 1/8th of a turn for now. once the electrics are in I'll bed the diff in properly and then see how tight it needs to be. Done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted February 28, 2020 After that I began tapping the holes for m3 screws, that done this is how the Diff sits in the rear gear box. Jazrider Alloy gear case as it seems to be a part that breaks often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jontea 334 Posted February 28, 2020 Very nice. My OCD loves this build! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1576 Posted March 6, 2020 Man, travel is a b**ch at times. Away in Denmark for work for 5 days and then had to catch up on all of those "missed" days of work, hey ho. where were we ( if your still reading that is.....) ah yes, the rear gear box. Shelled out for the alloy mount, the speed tuned and the plastic gear set. Speed Tuned is an option for later, but for the moment its the standard spur. Lube of choice is Boeshield T9. Used Finish Line Dry Lube a lot years ago, but ive found this to be excellent on the bike and I see no reason why it wont work well here. Debated whether to go full bore on the screws that hold the casing cover on, and decided yes. M3x14 and M3x16 fit perfectly with standard nuts. a few more minutes work and we're fitting turnbuckles ( 3Racing Ti and Tamiya Low Friction ends) and the rear shock brace. Here a pair of counter sunk washers and a nyloc nut should provide a little more strength, looks good too.... M3 x12 and and M3 x 16 do the job perfectly. Plus the nyloc goes over the edge of the casing holding it in place. Next time.... the front gear box and Dampers!!! stay tuned. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites