One radio, multiple models

[Saito2]

I'll start this off saying I know nothing of modern radio technology. Virtually all of my radios are ancient AM types, mostly Futaba. I'm sure this has been covered before, but what is a good quality (reliable) radio that can command multiple models? Talk to me like the idiot that I am about such things. How do they work? Do they store settings for multiple models? How are the models/settings accessed? Still vague on what binding is or rather how its done. How many models can be stored? Are receivers expensive for these things? For that matter, are these radios expensive? Whats a good brand nowadays? What's the meaning of life? etc etc. Please be patient with for I am not very bright about such things. Thank you.

[Biz73]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monty_Python's_The_Meaning_of_Life

You're welcome

[Jonathon Gillham]

They are completely different in that instead of dials or switches, they have a screen and buttons and so you have menus now. Changing between mdoels is as simple as navigating through the menu to change models. You also use these menus to change settings like EPA, trim etc.

Binding is simply following the instructions and then magic happems and the new rx and tx now talk. Or they don't, but after a few attempts they do.

Flysky GT3C seems popular. Cheap, works well and rx are super cheap. But also, cheap.

Futaba have a range, the 3PV is the cheapest and it works well but is small. My son uses 3PV.  4PV, 4PM, 7PX are their better models. Personally if I was buying again i would buy the 4PV or 4PM. Futaba rx are far more expensive than Flysky, but cheaper than Sanwa. 

Sanwa have the MTS, MT44, M12 (and S and RS) and M17.  These are the most popular at most race tracks. I have MT4S which is older now but still works great. Sanwa rx are really expensive, but can be had for reasonable prices seconhand. RCmart have the M12 models on some really good sales at the moment which may convince me to buy Sanwa.

Hugh end Sanwa and Futaba also have modes which run their servos faster too, I don't know anything about this as those servos are super expensive.

While I doubt many people would notice the difference in performance, all my Flysky stuff is cheap and feels cheap. It works fine, but just isn't as nice. The Sanwa and Futaba gear is so much nicer, even the cheap 3PRKA and 2HR. It is a lot more expensive though.

[87lc2]

Saito, once you go to 2.4ghz you'll wonder why it took you so long to switch.  They just work, 100% every single time with no glitching, range issues, etc.  

Jonathon gave some great info, I'll just add my personal experience as someone who retrofitted all of his RC stuff from AM to 2.4 within the past couple of years.  

For my nicer models and trucks that need more than 3 channels (for 2-speed tranny, 4-wheel steering, extra lighting, etc) I use the Futaba 4PLS.  It's a very nice system and probably all you'll ever need (unles you need more than 4 didicated channels).   It has a 40 model memory and is very high quality.  The only issue I have with it is the cost of receivers, the cheapest is around $30 (R2006GF).  It's actually a park flyer receiver, but it has a ton of range, I've never had anything get awawy from me using them.

For my simpler models I use the FlySKy GT3C.  I was skeptical about it at first because of the price ($40 from Amazon or Ebay), but I have to say I love it.  It's very light, has a nice screen, and works well.  Obviuosly not as nice as  a Futaba, but it does the job well for simpler RCs like buggies, basher trucks, anything with 3 channels or less.  The reason I bought one of these is because of the cost of receivers, they are around $5 each.  So each time I get a new RC I just buy a $5 receiver and I'm good to go.  The receiver part number is FS-GR3E and the best deals are on EBay when you buy in multiples.  You really can't beat that.  They have a 10 model memory so I have a couple of them, but still very cost effective.

As far as use, it could not be easier.  You just follow the binding instructions for the radio you have and the receiver is bound to the transmitter.  It will operate any receiver it is bound to on any Model setting, but you ideally want to have the proper Model selected as the settings you save will be applied to the vehicle you're running.

Overall it's really a no brainer, especially if you have many RCs (as pretty much everyone on TC has...).  It has made my life soooo much easier.  I went from 40 or so AM radios to (2) Futaba 4PLS and (3) FlySky GT3Cs and they run my over 50 RC models.  Was able to sel lthe vintage AM stuff and made the money back, pretty much an even swap and I could not be happier.

My suggestion would be to start with the FlySky and go from there.  Worst case is you're out $40.  If you really hate it I'll buy it from you.   Next, switch to Lipos - another life changer in the RC world.  Tossed every single NiCd/NiMh I had a year ago and couldnt be happier.

[WillyChang]

All really depends on your personal usage habits... mainly are you the only One person driving your RCs or do you occasionally have 2-6 others invited along yo play  

For me alone... used to run KO Mars (best feeling TX in hand) with KO 40MHz or later DSM1 Spektrum module. KO parts are expensive and Spektrum originals not too cheap either... KO Mars are great computer radios, I have a few as each one 'only' has 25 memory slots. (However the Spektrum module does not know what slot is selected. Spektrum RX broadcasts its ID when syncing, that's what the TX/module records.)

DSM2 came along, Spektrum didn't make any more modules for other brands by then. Started switching over to DX3S then DX3R and DX3C and DX3R-Pro... all good. Then arrived DSM2 clone receivers which made switching even more palatable... can buy 6+ for price of 1 original. (DSM2 is neat because each model slot records a unique broadcast ID. When you sync multiple RXes to different slots, you can have all of them powered on together, but ONLY the 1 sync'd to active slot will respond. I can also sync same 1 RX to multiple slots on TX, have different TX settings for each slot for same 1 car.) 

 

Spektrum has since moved onto DSMR (with DSM2 fallback)... supposedly faster, whoopee I don't race much. Their newer TXes DX4 then DX5 don't feel any better than my 3s  and I haven't yet found a need for 4th or 5th channel so no need to upgrade. Plus there's rumours that they don't talk to clone DSM2 RXes. 

 

For cheap RXes the Flysky ecosystem can't be beat. You can buy computer radios like GT3B/C etc with memories... they work ok, just feels a tad lightweight & plasticky; my biggest beef is their computer settings are often "opposite" to what I'm used to. I'm still using Flysky for single-model TXes mainly; there's several different  brands of TXes that will work on same system. (Flysky RXes store the unique code broadcast by each TX. You can sync multiple RXes to 1 TX and they'll all work together simultaneously.)

Fancy Flysky have lipo option, but I don't see anything wrong with AAs. Good brand LSD AAs last long enough, easy to buy new ones when the cells get old. I don't mind 8AAs or 4AAs, extra weight brings stability. 

[Juggular]

24 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

If you really hate it I'll buy it from you. 

Well, that's practically a guarantee.  

Flysky GT3C is cheap.  If you are racing, forget it.  You won't win races with it.  Its response time is slower than expensive ones.  But if you are running bashers, the response time shouldn't make much of a difference, especially if you are coming off of AM.  Being cheap can be a strength; it's not a big financial commitment. 

It's got trims, EPA, servo reverse, dual rate, expo and channel 3 button.  Nothing fancy, but simple enough for me to transition from AM.  There is an ABS function, but frankly I don't know how it works. (Maybe hitting reverse several times a second?)  

Remember how household phones used to have 1 base unit and 2 wireless units? (before the cell phone era)  

When the battery in a wireless unit dies, you'd plug it on the charger. When it comes alive, it'd say, "searching..." and then the wireless unit is connected.  That's "binding."  In case of a 2.4Ghz phone, it's automatic. Because there is only one base unit in the house. 

But a 2.4Ghz transmitter might have 50 different receivers in a room.  So, you press a button on the receiver while you press certain button on the transmitter.  They lock onto each other, and they are "bound."  I think of it as a password.  The transmitter says, "flash," and the particular receiver must say, "thunder." Otherwise they won't work together.  For model #2, the transmitter might say "Kal-El" and the receiver must say, "Krypton." (I don't know what goes on in the 2.4Ghz world, but that's how I imagine the binding process to work)   

Many radios have a dial or something, giving you 10 slots (expensive ones might have 100-200 models).  Just like old phones scrolling through phone numbers, you choose a model.  You go to slot 1, you can assign 3 characters for a name.  You can name slot 1 as "TXT" and bind a Flysky receiver you installed on TXT.  Now your TXT's receiver will only react when you choose the slot 1 on your transmitter.  You can do this up to 10 for cheaper radios.  I hear you can hack it to have 60 or 80 models. But it's cheap enough, you can just buy another one.  Also, if you have 2 transmitters, when your friend comes over, bind whatever car your friend wants to run and you pick yours.  Two of the same radios will control 2 different models without interference.  

Receivers for Flysky GT3C are about $7-9 each.  Back in the days, electronics cost as much as the car itself.  But now, I can equip one with $7.  Since I expect to hold onto this radio for some time, I put in a bearing to improve the feel of the wheel. (1280 bearing, I think, but not 100% sure)  

Next runner up is RadioLink RC6GS for about $70. It should have slightly faster response time than Flysky. Receivers are about $17-20 each.  It's got a gyro.  You can adjust the sensitivity of gyro. But if you adjust it wrong, it might steer funny.  So I don't know if I want to mess with a more complicated radio set yet. (Maybe I'll get it once I figure out what that ABS function does on my Flysky)

Again, if you want to race, go with Futaba or Sanwa or other expensive models. There is a good reason why they are expensive, and the most important thing is the response time.  (Think of the speed of Savox "Super Speed Titanium gear" servo. It's about 0.07 second. Regular servo's speed is about 0.19 second. We are talking about that much difference. Which is why racers wouldn't use cheap radios. For my bashers, though, regular servos and cheap radios are good enough)  

 

[Re-Bugged]

I have a Futaba 3PV that I really like, (10 model memory that is nearly full) but would probably look at a Flysky GT5 to add later as it has a 3 position channel 3 (should work with 3 speeds) 

another bonus to upgrading is some only take 4 AA batteries instead of 8 so you can consider yourself doing your bit for the planet 😉

 

[Biz73]

You can also get Flysky rx's with a gyro

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flysky-FS-BS3-3CH-Receiver-Gyro-For-RC-controller-FS-GT2-GT2B-GT3B-GT3C-T4B/192892751123?hash=item2ce94dcd13:g:SdsAAOSw0w1cuDQO

[Saito2]

Well thanks everybody. I'll give the Flysky a shot. Do the receivers accept Futaba servos without issue?

[waterbok]

Fun fact on flysky (in case I missed it above)  the transmitter binds to the receivers and as such amount of receivers used is unlimited. (That's the  GT2  and GT3 models that I know of)

The memory is only there for different transmitter setups, not to remember which receiver.

[87lc2]

5 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Well thanks everybody. I'll give the Flysky a shot. Do the receivers accept Futaba servos without issue?

Yes of course Saito.  You can use any servo you like with the FlySky receiver.

[Saito2]

Cool. I knew it was likely the case. I just had memories of back in the day when some of my Aristocraft receivers wouldn't accept Futaba servos at times etc.

[WillyChang]

Nearly everybody has standardised on the Futaba-J plug theseadays. 

Flysky likes it without the tab

(just snip it off if your plug is tabbed) 

[Wooders28]

On 2/2/2020 at 4:40 AM, Juggular said:

if you want to race, go with Futaba or Sanwa or other expensive models. There is a good reason why they are expensive, and the most important thing is the response time. 

I raced with the famed , Core RC radio, until recently, when using in wet weather and being dropped by the kids, it packed up, I've now gone for the Sanwa. I'd heard about the difference in responce times and not really given it much thought,  but, I'm having to learn to drive again (savox 1258tg 0.08s servos!) 

[Jonathon Gillham]

2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

I raced with the famed , Core RC radio, until recently, when using in wet weather and being dropped by the kids, it packed up, I've now gone for the Sanwa. I'd heard about the difference in responce times and not really given it much thought,  but, I'm having to learn to drive again (savox 1258tg 0.08s servos!) 

Interesting you noticed that much difference (i'm glad and is sort of justifies my radio and 8 or so rx at $50 a shot!). I started with a Sanwa MT4S and so its all i know. When I run cheaper radios its also in things like a TT02B with a TBLE-02S and  Futaba S3003 or those MG995 servos so never expect much.

[Wooders28]

9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

When I run cheaper radios its also in things like a TT02B with a TBLE-02S and  Futaba S3003 or those MG995 servos so never expect much

Funny you should say that, I've now upgraded the servo in the Optima Mid from a 3003, to a 1259tg, as the steering felt so sluggish and really hard to drive fast (there's a 5.5t in it right enough, so needs quicker reacting inputs)