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wolfdogstinkus

Brushless quick drive Thunder Dragon

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Bad luck on the motor! Think I did swear on the vids but nothing excessive, my mate probably did!

that locked mod is bound to work, it can’t go anywhere now! And when I mentioned flipping the diff, I did think that the entire diff would fit the other way around.

as for a new motor, I have been kicking myself a bit as there are much better ones out there. I have a 2430, however without the end cap which is pointless anyway, you can go 2440 maybe 2445, then get into big 4s esc’ s etc although on the other hand, until I can harness my setup properly it’s pointless going faster.

so 2 questions, have you modded the axle pivot point at all? I assume it’s for articulation? But obviously doesn’t help with linear power? I am thinking of jamming a bit of rubber tube in the gap? Also are you running foam inserts in the tyres?
I had a quick run over my parents today the back was constantly skipping. The tarmac is more “chippingS with sprayed on tar” Rather than the smooth tarmac at the train station yesterday, so I see what you mean about smooth.

however my paddle spikes on the rear are 30 years old and pretty hard. Did some burnouts tonight in my garage which has a scread floor. It seems only the centre 1/3rd of the tyre is contacting the floor, I burnt a bit off the tyres, may keep burning until the whole width is on the floor. So I don’t know if it’s doing this because of ballooning? Kind of makes sense to run my slicks on the back, they are very wide, (and widen the track) on a warm day they could hookup really Well, but still 30 year old rubber, besides I would be gutted if I tore one as I bet I can’t replace them.

i looked for mad bull hexes but not the easiest to find. I am debating buying some 12mm hex ally, and a spare half shaft, then literally drill a hole and smack the half shaft in to cut the splines, might not last long but super easy to make and dirt cheap. Great range of 1/10 wheels then.

 

i know you said M chassis tyres fit, I wish model tyres had rim sizes in the descriptions!

now have my mate hooked on brushless (we are nitro boys as a rule) he has a vintage mud blaster, I think I have persuaded him to buy a brushless setup for it, then he stumbled on your monster beetle thread “Demo, speak up I am talking about you”

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I found an 8000kv motor in a slightly bigger 24 size can.

Not bought it yet, I also see this exact motor for £15 but wonder if it's fake?

I don't have any foams in tyres, I probably should as my rear wheels have become quite chipped.

No modifications to suspension at all. 

The pivot point is free to wobble around. 

I tried it with the original tyres on the front, but it just wouldn't go straight, I think the chunky front tyres were rubbing the ball joints, so back to rally blocks on front.

It was still pulling a wheelie when I reached full throttle. Lol

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Hi Beastbike,

Can you give me any tips on how to line up the screws to fix my motor in position? You mentioned you countersunk yours, could you explain that for me?

l looked at my motor and the connection with the gears was Very poor, so I could do with some way of being able to position the pinion correctly. 

Wolfdog,

Have you lowered your car? 
Please can we see some videos of your speed machine? 

thanks

Jimbo

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I'll try and get a decent video soon. 

I keep spoiling it by swearing or crashing, usually both. Lol. 

Show us a picture of your gearbox half?. 

One of us might come up with a metal plate or something that will support the plastic housing. 

No, my car isn't lowered, just the rally block tyres are lower profile than the original tyres. 

It's just that EZRUN motor goes insane on 3s. 

If you don't mind watching loads of crashes, I might try tonight but can't really film by myself.

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Oh and the ,8000kv motor I found says 2s is max so I will probably just replace the ezrun motor.

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So I bodged up the broken gearbox and locked it in high gear. 

Charged battery and headed out. 

Car was dead, went home to test, came straight back to life. 

Headed out again, battery didn't seem as punchy tonight but I may have ruined the motor on last run as well.

Anyway, I think I have a 40mph run on camera, I'll have to watch it and check. 

I will hit 50, and I will prove it. Lol

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I did just type up a long reply with pictures but I lost it. 

I will add some more information when I get time.

Chipped teeth, but it still meshes.

RaYtsAZ.jpg

A few spacers lock it in high gear.

5nIap8h.jpg

Loaded up.

gugNmmp.jpgGPS inside

cWNhrAA.jpgand ready for launch

iKzI4nA.jpg

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This is the gearbox I ruined when the motor worked loose. 

I've bolted it back together with some washers.

4sNzL2I.jpg

Going to check nothing is rubbing in there because it felt slow tonight.

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I think the 40mph video is safe to upload. I can't film the whole run until I have a willing assistant but you can see it whizzing by, it gives you an idea of the speed. And this was nowhere near as punchy as it normally is.

 

That 3s is really puffed, should have disposed of it years ago. Lol.

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Here's a really bad video from a few weeks ago when I still had the phone on the roof.

And one from tonight

Got a loose connection somewhere as it died earlier, so I'll go through it all and get 50 soon. Lol

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Hi Jimbo, as for lining up the motor, I simply was very careful with measurements and the engineer in me took over to mark up the my holes exactly to get the can dead central to the existing hole in the gearbox. The countersinking was partly from wolf dogs advice with running a single bolt because the second was catching. Armed with that info I went on eBay and ordered M2.5x8 csk Phillips head screws before the motor turned up to be sure I had clearance. After drilling the 2.5mm holes, I literally just licked the plastic with a 6mm drill to create the countersink. Now I have only had 3 runs with my car so far, 2 of which it was bouncing round like a jackhammer, so seems to be holding up, but I have not inspected since the build. With countersink in plastic that thin, you can tighten very tightly without deforming or cracking the plastic.
in your case I would probably elongate 1 hole, then use packing. Use the one you don’t elongate as a pivot, the tighten when you have good mesh. Or turn the motor 90 degrees and have another go. I used the motor tech drawings and a little maths, set a vernier to whatever I needed and scratched a circle into the plastic from the gear side. worked out my horizontal line and merrily drilled away!

 

wolfdog, awesome to see another speed run! I will dig out my motor instructions tomorrow, they deffo do a 24mm can 3s. I think 2440 or 2445. Surpass is the brand, same as goolrc I believe. Cheap and cheerful but hey! And I am 99% sure It’s available as 7200kv, not sure if it goes higher. I have a random touring car wheel here so might figure out a way to make 12mm hexes fit all 4 corners for future fun. I reckon the easiest way would be a 4wd hub up front, and spacing the lower retaining block with washers. Most of the CV cup could be ground away. Either that or get creative on the lathe.

 

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Just had a brainwave. A 12x5x4mm bearing, pop that into a regular 12mm hex with another on the outside as a spacer. May have to glue an m8 washer to the rim beforehand so the inner race does not contact the wheel (or just drill wheel to maybe 7mm ish) job done. Won’t look amazing but opens up a whole new world of wheels.

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I ordered a Jurassic power ,8000kv motor that says it can handle 3s.

I just hope the shaft is 2mm because the description doesn't say. It's a 2035 can so it probably will be a 2mm shaft. 

Could do with a new compact 3s lipo now. Lol. 

I think a new battery will easily get the extra 2mph to hit 50. 

Could redistribute the electronics as well with a smaller battery. 

Or maybe a 4s ESC?. Lol

The saga continues. 

I had a small ****ht last night filming an unloaded gearbox speed run. Almost reached full throttle,......then bang!!!!

I thought something snapped. Lol. 

I'll load the video but it's not as shocking as when it happens in your hand. Lol.

*F r I g h t is swear filtered?

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10 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

@Beastbike

@Jimbothejetsetter

@catman79

I can't believe all you guys are blaming me for making you buy the quick drive range!!!.

Now I have 2 spare cars and a new motor on the way, and I'm blaming all you lot. Lol

It’s not so much having the car, as you know I have owned it for 30 years! It was the spending on it I blame you for!!!

 

with your 3S seriously have a look down the 18650 route. I am halfway through modding the true QD I have as I am sick of putting AAs in, and it’s rubbish on nicds, I can make more room easily, but at the mo the chassis is completely unmolested, if I am selling I want it to be 100% original.

 

this little bad boy cost just over £2 with the Qd battery door off, and the sides cut off with a Stanley, it fits in the hole. I will upload installation pics later.

dont get me wrong it’s handy I am a vaper, but even if you don’t vape, £2 on a box and wire a deans connector to it, borrow some batts off a mate to test the theory. Even cheap batts are good for 30A and 3000mah

 

66422FA6-A101-4399-920C-2EF878AE9364.jpeg

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@Beastbike yeah that's fair enough that you want to keep yours original looking. 

Mine was a non runner bought cheap so I don't mind chopping it up. 

And now I'm so close to 50, I've got to push it a bit more.

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I was getting fed up trying to see the phone through the tinted window. It's fine at night but then I can't see the car that far away. (Probably just getting old)

So I cut up a lucazade bottle and used some hot glue. (Purists please turn away from the screen)

spacer.pngNow I should get a clear shot in the video. 

I lost my phone the other day, before I did the window, didn't break quick enough, car hit kerb, phone flew about 2 metres into a prickly bush. 

I found it after climbing in but never expected it to be that far back!!!, It was a dense bush. Lol. It was a 40mph run though.

Had my first minor breakage, bust a hinge pin off the battery door, so that's hot glued on now. But it's held up amazingly well. 

So many 40mph wipeouts and no major damage, any other car would have snapped in half by now, and this is 30 years old!!!!

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Love it!!! So I bought proper 14500 batts for mine now with 7A output, (Buy cheap buy twice) not done a speed run yet but the motor now screams compared to the ying tong bing bongs I bought. Also added a fair amount of lead on it to make it grip/handle. It may well be detrimental to performance but right now it goes well.
 

On other models I bought an Absima cr4t with telemetry, debating another Rx and speed sensor, although it’s not a perfect reading really, if it lights up a wheel it would give false speed. Do t get me wrong, not gonna be close to 50mph but weirdly I still want to know!

 

will post pics over the weekend, I added enough lead over the rear axle to make the shocks sag about 1/4”, then added a similar amount to the front to level it out a little.

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Funny you mention lead, @Beastbike I've added a few weights myself. 

20grams in the rear of the old battery box.

And I think another 10 or 15grams in the front. 

It drives a lot better, I'm crashing less. 

But I think the fastest Ive had it so far without crashing is around 45. 

 

I'm still wondering if the crashes provide a false reading but Im not far off. 

Had a few developments and might try a run tonight.

I need a longer road now, or better eyesight?. Lol. 

Might put a light on it?. Or a flag, that would help I think.

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