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wolfdogstinkus

Brushless quick drive Thunder Dragon

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On 7/2/2020 at 4:24 PM, AndyCC said:

How did you get on with the 18650 batteries in the holder? Liked that it pretty much fitted in the opening if the battery compartment.

That was on a normal Qd, worked great, however on my brushless I can only run 2s so 14500s were the way to go. Bought some cheapies and thought it was good until I bought decent ones! Wow what a difference. I tried 3x18650s (a 3s) on my brushless nitro starter (bigger motor 2838 with 35A esc) and it craps out very quickly. It might cope with 30A???

 

am now going to run the 14500 cheapos in the Qd (stock) but splitting the connectors for 2 lots of 4, but using 2 dummies to get the correct voltage. However if you did this configuration as 3s you would be limited to 14A (more than enough for a stock Qd but not brushless)

 

the brushless has been connected as 4 lots of 2s. The decent 14500s I bought have 7A output. Multiplied by 4 I have 28A on tap on a 25A esc. It works fantastic and lasts ages.

 

so to sum up, 18650s were a good idea in theory, but despite the claimed current output they can’t light a candle to a proper lipo.

 

if you want to run 2s in the standard box I have a very simple solution.
 

not posted in a while, been flat out in work. I think my TD is due to retire all refurbished, and slightly modernised. It was fun but I can’t get it to handle well enough for the power, and have other models I don’t mind smashing up at ridiculous speeds.

 

also just bought a 1/10 to complete my collection, it’s brushless and is silly fast. Broke it 3 times already on one charge!! Also destined to be put back stock and shelf queened. 
 

so back to nitros for me and maybe build a fast tarmac brushless that actually handles!

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37 minutes ago, Beastbike said:

the brushless has been connected as 4 lots of 2s. The decent 14500s I bought have 7A output. Multiplied by 4 I have 28A on tap on a 25A esc. It works fantastic and lasts ages.

 

if you want to run 2s in the standard box I have a very simple solution.

If by you're experimenting you would lean me to the 14500s then I'll believe you. The QD I'm running doesn't have the shell to accommodate a lipo so I definitely need to use the battery compartment in some way.

Interested to know your simple solution and whatever you would suggest for power to be honest. It's my stumbling block. I'm going to be running the 7800kv ezrun 2030 which I think you bought too? 

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I don't have any experience with these "vape" batteries other than the larger 18650 type.

But you can fit a small 2 s lipo in the battery compartment without modification.

It will be fast but not uncontrollable. I am using a 3s and high gear to achieve 40+. I don't know why @Beastbike says it's uncontrollable?. Mine goes like a rocket in a straight line, Im not bashing just now, just purely speed runs in a straight line. I wouldn't use 3s for normal use. I think 3s is too much if you wanted to navigate a track, you would just spin round a lot.

If you want it closer to the original speed, just more reliable, try it on 6volts if the ESC will function on 6volts?. I believe it does.

You could even build AA packs in different configurations to provide different voltages.

 

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4 minutes ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

But you can fit a small 2 s lipo in the battery compartment without modification.

I'm going to be running the 18A esc that comes with the ezrun 2030 12t kit. I have been looking for a 2S that would fit in the battery compartment but haven't found one with a semi decent Mah number. 

Any links or suggestions welcome 🙂

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I haven't used the 2s for long enough to be a good judge I'm afraid. 

I bought a couple for the boys lunchbox minis but haven't seen them since this coronavirus kicked off.

The thing is though, lipos are so light, you could mount a small 2s higher up and just have a few lead weights in the battery box to keep it stable.

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Once you remove the circuit board, you have loads of space in there, you could fit all electronics in there with a small battery and leave the battery box empty. 

Then, when you're out whizzing around at 30mph silently and somebody says" hey man, is that nitro or petrol?" You can show them the empty battery box and say it runs on magic. Lol

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2 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

I don't have any experience with these "vape" batteries other than the larger 18650 type.

But you can fit a small 2 s lipo in the battery compartment without modification.

It will be fast but not uncontrollable. I am using a 3s and high gear to achieve 40+. I don't know why @Beastbike says it's uncontrollable?. Mine goes like a rocket in a straight line, Im not bashing just now, just purely speed runs in a straight line. I wouldn't use 3s for normal use. I think 3s is too much if you wanted to navigate a track, you would just spin round a lot.

If you want it closer to the original speed, just more reliable, try it on 6volts if the ESC will function on 6volts?. I believe it does.

You could even build AA packs in different configurations to provide different voltages.

 

My uncontrollable situation is partly due to 30 year old paddle block tyres, and still not really sorting out my steering properly that’s all. I will do a video shortly to explain and show what I did. Don’t get me wrong I have had great fun with mine, but for speed runs I have to be super gentle accelerating otherwise it goes sideways. And that’s not really why I built it, it’s a semi restoration as well.

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2 hours ago, AndyCC said:

I'm going to be running the 18A esc that comes with the ezrun 2030 12t kit. I have been looking for a 2S that would fit in the battery compartment but haven't found one with a semi decent Mah number. 

Any links or suggestions welcome 🙂

My configuration makes 2600mah. Batts from ecolux which I will show on video later

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47 minutes ago, Beastbike said:

My uncontrollable situation is partly due to 30 year old paddle block tyres, and still not really sorting out my steering properly that’s all. I will do a video shortly to explain and show what I did. Don’t get me wrong I have had great fun with mine, but for speed runs I have to be super gentle accelerating otherwise it goes sideways. And that’s not really why I built it, it’s a semi restoration as well.

I have to be super gentle with the throttle or it flips over, wheelies, or spins round depending on grip. 

I like it when you are approaching 40mph and you squeeze too much and pull a little wheelie. Lol.    :)

But I did build this with completely different intentions to some of the other members. 

I'll move on once I hit 50, or give up trying. Lol

 

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Just watched your video @Beastbike it might be foam or something, but it looks like too much lead on front end?. Rear has no grip so diff unloads on one side and you spin round. Just a guess, it might just be hard 30 year old rubber and a smooth workshop floor. 

M chassis rally block tyres fit straight on the original wheels and are reasonably priced.

Have you soaked the tyres in warm water?. Worth a try, followed by a rub with WD-40. 

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6 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Just watched your video @Beastbike it might be foam or something, but it looks like too much lead on front end?. Rear has no grip so diff unloads on one side and you spin round. Just a guess, it might just be hard 30 year old rubber and a smooth workshop floor. 

M chassis rally block tyres fit straight on the original wheels and are reasonably priced.

Have you soaked the tyres in warm water?. Worth a try, followed by a rub with WD-40. 

The weight on the back had come off there, I loaded it so the rear springs were about 1/4” down, then the front was too light so added some on the front. I am aware off the flaws, but as said earlier, built for different reasons.

 

the flaws are deffo exaggerated in the garage with screed floor, I did silicon spray the slicks to make them supple again, but not touched the paddle spikes as I expected to wreck them in a short space of time.

 

i do have some more wheels on the way, so we will see. But I am happy enough with how it turned out. Have a bigger plan in store overall with the 1/10 and a 1/32, watch this space !!!

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So, just bought this for £15.20 posted from eBay. Apparently it doesn’t work, but Its ripe for a brushless conversion, wolfdogstinkus, I’m coming for you 😂😂😂

5D269F98-AE08-476E-BEC4-C3964B278FAE.jpeg

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Nice job.

What's your budget?, How fast?

 

You could leave the brushed motor in and just fit a cheap ESC and receiver and servo.....

Or go brushless.

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1/16th-1/18th scale brushless combo

Anything from a 2030can up to a 2435 can should fit without problems.

Goolrc=£20ish

1/10 scale steering servo

£10ish

Radio and receiver

£20ish

Small 2s lipo. 

£10

Steering hardware (5mm ball joints, 5mm adjusters, M3 threaded rod for steering tie rods. 

£10ish

Steering parts can be found in the Tamiya high torque servo saver set.

M chassis rally block tyres.

£7 ISH

It soon adds up. Lol

 

Any questions, just @ me..

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I want to go brushless, and as fast as possible ideally! 
cool thanks, I’ll give you a shout when it arrives 

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10 hours ago, catman79 said:

I want to go brushless, and as fast as possible ideally! 
cool thanks, I’ll give you a shout when it arrives 

I've broken a few parts now, but the way I drive it,.... I should have broken them all.  Lol   Tough little car. 

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3 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

I've broken a few parts now, but the way I drive it,.... I should have broken them all.  Lol   Tough little car. 

im looking forward to the project, so the hobbywing one pictured, is that quick? best to get?

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11 hours ago, catman79 said:

im looking forward to the project, so the hobbywing one pictured, is that quick? best to get?

It's fast. Yes,, but mine was getting hot on 3s.  I think you might be better with a larger 2430 can which should have a bit more torque and run cooler.

I'm now running a Jurassic power motor which is also getting hot but I'm going to refit the heat sink and try again.

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I found the best thing to remove the old pinion is a claw hammer, just wedge the claw in and apply some force or a gentle tap and it pops off. 

 

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13 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

I found the best thing to remove the old pinion is a claw hammer, just wedge the claw in and apply some force or a gentle tap and it pops off. 

 

do you just tap it on to the new shaft?

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3 hours ago, catman79 said:

do you just tap it on to the new shaft?

Yes, that's all I did and it's held up fine, I suppose you could add a drop of loctite but you might struggle to get it off again if you ever want to.

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On 7/23/2020 at 11:43 AM, catman79 said:

im looking forward to the project, so the hobbywing one pictured, is that quick? best to get?

It's a good quality system with lots of adjustable features,  I've had a few ezrun esc's before the price shot up and I haven't had it fail yet. 

But you don't really need all the adjustments, you could use a cheaper system and not notice any difference in performance.

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