Brushed ESC starts melting.

[Collin]

Hi there, I am a bit confused, thought to electrify one of my Dyna Storm. Setup is:

Pink Acto Power (re-edition)
LRP F1 ESC
Standard steering Servo
Sanwa or Futaba  AM27mhz receiver
2S60C 5000mAh Lipo

Now it was really reacting epileptic to the steering and throttle. I thought it was maybe the 27mhz band. So I swiched all of and figured out the ESC was boiling. Now I was checking everything in exchange to my running DS (also 27mhz). Put things together and now steering is smooth, no glitches. Gas also but more reverse. Looks like I fried the reverse FETs.

I am so confused, what did I made wrong? I had this ESC running bevor for a few loads but with another motor (even lower turns). The receiver cannot be the problem.
The Lipo? No, the ESC/motor just takes what it needs and the Lipo was running fine on other brushed models.

Could it be the Pink Acto Power? I got it (never tested) with a Dyna Storm lately but it does run, but only forward. Anyway, bevor I fry another ESC, did I oversaw anything?
Ah, one thing about cablediameter. The cables from the ESC are smaller diameter then the one from the LiPo. I know its not good reduce diameter on cables but it worked bevor and I think lot of you do run it this way.

Guys, all idears welcome.
 

 

[WillyChang]

Wouldn't lose sleep over cable gauge, IMHO anything over 16g is already overkill for most 1/10 RC applications... 14g & 12g just good for Monster Cable looks.

 

Lots of reasons why ESCs go up in smoke... some even do it without any cause. LRP & Nosram weren't immune BiTD. Could be something as simple as Reverse FETs heatsink has shorted against the Forward FETs when either is powered up. Could be little magnetic/conductive pebbles or metal filings has been picked up from the track, entered the ESC case and shorted out some circuits.

Or in one crazy case... car wasn't switched on but battery was connected. Some child grabs the front wheels and moves the steering side to side... steering servo sends enough volts to the RX and that perks up the ESC too, enough to turn on the MOSFETs and short themselves out. 

[Collin]

So probably it was just its time to say good bye? Not shure because it came NIB and I didt run it for more than an hour all in all. But jes, I turned the front wheels, but not like a hysteric child.

Anyways, its racing forward only now : )

I found another old Acoms AT-6 but dont know any specs. Searched the web and found: 184A, Peak 740A  What would that mean in turns approximatly? Its all for the Pink Acto (14T).

Also found a hitech SP-520 Plus with 140A, Peak 560A also dont know how many turns it can handle.

 

[WillyChang]

Anything "peak" is just imagination, like "PMPO" rating on your 1980s boombox. 

140A should be able to support mild to hottish mods, say down to 10t 540size. (Personally I think Korean Amps might be on the small underdeveloped side, but that's just me) 

 

No idea which LRP F1 you have... are some of them programmable (fwd/brake or f/b/rev?) Vaguely remember LRP had fancy gizmos like torque control settings via jumpers etc... but I didn't pay attention much to the blue bugs, I was blinded by the orange of Novak  

 

[Collin]

Orange is the new blue, for shure man! 

I will give the Acoms a try.

[Collin]

On 2/3/2020 at 4:24 PM, WillyChang said:

 Could be little magnetic/conductive pebbles or metal filings has been picked up from the track, entered the ESC case and shorted out some circuits.

 

Indeed I found a suspicious little piece of solder laying around on the circuit board. I think I will give it a try renewing the reverse MOSFETs.