Jump to content
rwordenjr

DT03 motor suggestions

Recommended Posts

Just ordered myself a DT03 black edition and am looking for some help on a good motor. Any suggestions ? Going to run the 19T pinion and stock TBLE-02S ESC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

I'd say go for a 13.5 turn Bluebottle. This is unlikely to overstress wallet or your speed controller, yet will still give plenty of performance.

There are loads of them on eBay. Here is an example.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190W-49A-540-13-5T-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-for-1-10-RC-Car-Auto-Truck/133226601727

Thanks! I'll check it out for sure. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

What @TurnipJF said 

Good to hear from you again TDC! I'm super excited for this build. Got a savox black 1251 servo as well. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, TurnipJF said:

In that case, you might prefer one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/312652967472

More expensive, but faster and in keeping with the colour scheme. 

Wow that one looks nice, thanks a lot! Do you have a DT03 as well? I'm usually into the rere's but I liked the price and look of the DT03 so going to test it out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Wow that one looks nice, thanks a lot! Do you have a DT03 as well? I'm usually into the rere's but I liked the price and look of the DT03 so going to test it out. 

I do indeed - mine is the DT-03T version. 

2019-11-24_12-12-19

 

2019-11-24_12-13-01

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you drive in a place that has sand/gravel you may want to stick with the blue motor as it has a closed can. The holes in the black motor will let dirt in. You can always spray the motor out after running if you prefer the black one. Just something to think about.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run this combo in my dt03 with sand paddles, it’s epic in this chassis. Way faster and more powerful than any 13.5/tble02s combo could hope to be. I’ve even amazed at the abuse the dt03 transmission can handle. 
 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACE-HWAP50BL4000-Hobbywing-3652-4000KV-Brushless-Motor-50A-ESC-Waterproof-1-10/323751603790?hash=item4b61196e4e:g:QN4AAOSwvIldrou3

it is a oem version of this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOBBYWING-EZRUN-Black-G2-3652SL-4000KV-Brushless-Motor-Max10-60A-ESC/273794221983?hash=item3fbf68479f:g:Sa8AAOSwzSRZ2KxJ

sensorless setups are my preference for this type of application as they are way more powerful and faster with less energy use (longer run times) and often more reliable as they are sealed. Particularly when your talking the low end of the price spectrum. 
 

for my DT03 sand rails is the only thing I’d ever use, I’d dunked it in the ocean a few times, still going strong. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Juls1 said:

 

sensorless setups are my preference for this type of application as they are way more powerful and faster with less energy use (longer run times) and often more reliable as they are sealed. Particularly when your talking the low end of the price spectrum. 
 

for my DT03 sand rails is the only thing I’d ever use, I’d dunked it in the ocean a few times, still going strong. 

Interesting, how come sensorless are more powerful and use less energy compared to the equivalent sensored setup?

I only have sensored and a programmable ESC with a decent motor is a rocket.  Even a cheap Trackstar setup with some turbo and boost dialled in was really impressive.

The price of that Hobbywing setup is not much less than a SkyRC TS120 / Hobbywing 10BL120 and a Surpass V4S motor (ok, so US$20 in it) but to me that would be a better performer?  Although not waterproof or sandproof which is obviously a big consideration.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those look like yellow CVAs as supplied with the Neo Scorcher. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Those look like yellow CVAs as supplied with the Neo Scorcher. 

They better or same as stock sand viper ? I got the DT03 coming but just bought this built but never run sand viper too a few hours ago lol. Price was too good to pass up 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

They better or same as stock sand viper ? I got the DT03 coming but just bought this built but never run sand viper too a few hours ago lol. Price was too good to pass up 

The bodies are same spec, different colour. The internals may use fixed metal pistons or swappable plastic ones - can't say from the photos obviously. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The bodies are same spec, different colour. The internals may use fixed metal pistons or swappable plastic ones - can't say from the photos obviously. 

oh okay, thanks! got it for $150+ shipping. Includes servo, motor, esc, other upgrades, and a battery. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sand Vipers and Desert Gators are such nice bodies. I know its a function of the new chassis on the DT03 but the 03 bodies are so rubbish. That's why I did these two for mine

20180322_133648 20180420_164448 Proline 2017 Ford F150 Raptor body for Pro MT, fitted to a Tamiya DT03 Chassis by CTE RC

A word on motors. I slightly disagree with @Juls1 on motor power. I run a 3450kv blue bottle 10.5 in this with a hobbywing 10bl120 and even in a big space like a playing field for me it is bordering on too fast. It's very quick. I can understand why Juls would want a lot of power for beach runners with lots of space and wheelspin though.

I would agree with @Biz73.@Biz73. I have one of tjose Rocket V3 in my touring race car and i wouldn't want to use it in a buggy. Brilliant for on road, but so full on cooling holes i wouldn't want to get it near dirt and debris. Those blue bottle motors are as set and forget as i have found for sensored brushless. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Interesting, how come sensorless are more powerful and use less energy compared to the equivalent sensored setup?

They're not.

Especially with a decent set up, running boost & turbo, you can almost double the KV with a sensored.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I would agree with @Biz73.@Biz73. I have one of tjose Rocket V3 in my touring race car and i wouldn't want to use it in a buggy. Brilliant for on road, but so full on cooling holes i wouldn't want to get it near dirt and debris. Those blue bottle motors are as set and forget as i have found for sensored brushless. 

I wouldn't worry about the holes. I have switched all my race buggies to the Surpass V4S for this season, and ran half of last season with one in my 2wd where the motor is pretty exposed. This is a proper dirt track and while dirt gets everywhere it still doesn't affect the motors.

Prior to these motors I've run an Orca Blitreme in my 4wd, that was pretty well protected as they are under the body. Also Trackstar motors which have been exposed to the dirt and they haven't had any issues.

Sand or tiny stones could be a different story though...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I wouldn't worry about the holes. I have switched all my race buggies to the Surpass V4S for this season, and ran half of last season with one in my 2wd where the motor is pretty exposed. This is a proper dirt track and while dirt gets everywhere it still doesn't affect the motors.

Prior to these motors I've run an Orca Blitreme in my 4wd, that was pretty well protected as they are under the body. Also Trackstar motors which have been exposed to the dirt and they haven't had any issues.

Sand or tiny stones could be a different story though...

I generally run on grass (and wet grass at this time of year), and in the uk they spread sand on astro tracks to manage the grip. I have electricians tape over the holes in my Speed Passion motors. As you say, it's totally surface dependent. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Interesting, how come sensorless are more powerful and use less energy compared to the equivalent sensored setup?

Equavalent money “not numbers”, I’ve got a lot of sensored 6.5T - 15.5T 

only the really expensive stuff I’ve got sensored ($200-300 combos) has the same tire shredding torque, but it’s still not quite the same. 
 

I would not however put these sensorless setups in a touring car or a “racing” buggy. But in a high trash mud/sand/water basher I honestly feel they are the best option and the performance is useable in that scenario if your tires are up to it (which 0.. yes none of Tamiya tires actually have decent off road grip for bashing with any decent amount of power). 

There is a reason why Traxxas, Aarma, losi, associated, vaterra and most other oem brands only supply sensorless  systems for their off road bashing cars. Durability, cost and outright high voltage performance.
 

if your going to spend most of your time between 1/4 and full throttle, there is very little if any advantage in using sensored systems in a general purpose bash kit. 
 

granted I understand Tamiya supply us a sensored only esc, for this reason I’ve got a stack of 13.5t and 10.5t sensored motors amongst my collection hooked up to the stock esc, just like the rest of us. 
 

there’s nothing wrong with using a sensored motor in a dt03, just saying I really love my budget sensorless combo in my dt03, it is just epic.  lucky for me I can buy them for $108 Aud ($73usd) each with free freight, I realise this isn’t a luxury afforded to most of the rest of the world though, in which case it may not present as good a value.
 

There is a lot to be said for sensored systems particularly at 0-5% throttle, but at the low end of the market there is still plenty of reasons to reach for the sensorless combo. 
 

The DT03 does make a epic sand rail, and you just let off if you want to turn, front wheels up all the way! If you want to go slower just opt for less kv!

0BEC6C85-BEF3-4B82-B858-E0EED38B107E.thumb.jpeg.fb4c6e190bb8892e417d6be73af8aeed.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where I run the dirt has a lot of sand/tiny pebbles mixed in so I switched up to closed can motors. A race track, even dirt, would be a much different story. That said, you can clean out any motor after you run it and it should do ok.

If you want waterproof electronics then you should go for a sensorless setup. I use sensored motors because of the TBLE-02S esc coming with the kits and I don't run in wet conditions.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I usually just use a cheapo sealed can from China in the 3-4000KV range. They aren't world class but they are plenty more powerful than a brushed motor. They get quite hot at the beach sometimes but I'm pretty sure a brushed 540 of equivalent RPM would be hotter still and probably throw in the towel. I've never managed to kill one of those cheapo motors.

For a little more, those sensored ones are great too.

I haven't used those cool looking Surpass ones but I've heard they are really good. Not ideal for beach running though I would assume!

I run on sand a lot so I put some silicone sealant around where the wires go into the case as they usually aren't perfectly sealed.

I also cover up the screw holes at the front that aren't being used to attatch the motor as due the design of the gearbox where the motor mounts, it's possible for sand to get to those holes and then inside the motor. You could also use that paper gasket thing supplied with the kit which should work too.

For some reason, the surface the motor mounts on isn't flat but has channels moulded into it and some of them lead directly to the unoccupied screw holes on the motor.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Biz73 said:

That said, you can clean out any motor after you run it and it should do ok.

Usually true but there are exceptions. 

I have a Castle 3800KV somewhere and the rear cap is not intended to be removed, it's glued into place. And worse still, the sensor board makes it impossible to even get the rear bearing out from the front. The older sensorless version you could at least try and get it from the front because there was a clear path to the bearing.

That seems to be an exception though, even the cheapo ones you can take the back off and reach the front bearing quite easily after taking the rotor out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...